$5,900, it runs, less than 100,000km

>shed weight
no, you're doing muscle cars wrong. You don't shed weight, you add more power and go fast in a straight line

2nd gen
FTFY

Don't believe stancefags opinion on appearance it looks sexy. It should weight around 3100-3400 pounds but that's no real issue just make more power.

theres a lot of areas to lose weight on those cars

say you get a modern intake and heads that could easily be close to 100 lbs off right there couple that with a good engine rebuild and youre likely going to be faster than most cars on the road in straight line

headers will drop weight
a new exhaust probably will weigh less
aluminum radiator
flywheel (seriously those old flywheels are heavy af)

Mustang II is the 2nd gen
hence the name

first gens were 64-73

its not an opinion its a fact

no one liked these things

nearly more Mustang IIs were sold the first year than in all 3 years of these models

as soon as Mustangs started to get big their sales dropped (well it started big time with that funky 1970 facelift)

Alright so if the weight isn't a problem for going a straight line, I'm going to be greedy as fuck and want to at least have decent handling. Even if its going to be expensive, that possible? I have a boner for being able to out perform EVOs and STIs in corners and to be able to do it with a V8 like this is my dream

please say yes

you can convert these things to use coilovers disc brakes rack and pinion and all kinds of nice fancy stuff if you have the money

is that a yes? I can outperform modern muscles in a straight and an EVO in a corner with enough mods without being held back too much by pigfat etc?

might as well just build a kit car at that point.

kit cars are for fags

only problem is youre not going to be able to find good performance tires or clear brakes on "normal" sized muscle wheels

but eh maybe that doesnt bother you

as pigfat as it is it weighs about the same as a new Mustang GT

old pigfat isnt that fat by modern standards

i second this as much as ive done most of these, apart from intake and heads, rebuild.

even tho the 302 i got is tired and burns some oil, its still running strong but it deserves a nice rebuild

new (removal of) exhaust, snagged some cheap summit racing headers
new radiator out of necessity, likewise for the flywheel

and i only snagged this for like 2800

it might have been a bad selling style but i dig it. would love to have an old mopar but it is what it is

Is it possible to expand the wheel housing to fix the size problem without butchering it?

what year is yours I can't remember, 71?

72

wheel housings arent the problem

problem is performance brakes are big and youre not getting high performance 15s

this
fat slicks and a solid rear is all you need on these cars

>Those rims
>Those brakes

...

seconded this

Any classic car with over 15 inch rims is into the garbage tier

Make sure it's got paperwork that its actually an authentic and not just a base model if you're paying that much.
Same thing goes for checking that the engine and trans are numbers matching unless you plan on changing them anyways

That depends.

To get it looking like new also expect to spend $5000-$15000 on paint and body depending on how much you do yourself. Looks like it needs two rear quarters, rockers, door patch panels and skins and fender bottoms from the photos.

You'd probably be better off buying one that's an older restoration or in nicer original condition for a higher price less this one has other real desirable options aside from being a Mach 1. If it's a 351 Cobrajet / 4 speed manual car I'd say go for it.

dont know about the transmission other than it works, but yeah its everything else you listed

Holy shit newfag finally says something good for once

Keep it up champ we need people who aren't just straight shit posters

Double check the block number and make sure it's a 351 Cobajet. There's a big value difference between a 351 Cleveland, 302 Windsor and 351 Cobrajet which all look similar at first glance though I believe most Windsors were 2 bbl engines for this year.

Check whether the transmission is a C4 or C6 if it's an auto. A 4 speed manual automatically makes the car worth about 15% more.

god damn it, one of the few threads I bothered to read what you've said and you spout nothing but truths

I'm still keeping you muted though, fgt

>A 4 speed manual automatically makes the car worth about 15% more.
How come?

cause it's more fun to drive

I have an autistic library of knowledge on some things but shitposting is more fun so yeah dont get used to it

OP here, what kind of engines can this chassi take? How good is my selection for something more powerful or even something like a more modern V8

Dropping an engine into an old chassis like that isn't easy at all, do you have any car experience at all working on them?

Appraisers add another 10-20% on most car's valuse for a manual transmission because the market wants a manual in a fun, sporty vehicle.Classic trucks usually are worth a tad more in an auto on the flipside.

I'm literally ashamed to say I do not but I have plenty of family members and friends who are automotive experts with a shit tonne of experience. One of the reasons I'm getting this car is to learn how to restore and work on.

you can drop any V8 Ford made in there as far as size goes

you can get kits to swap in big blocks if you wanted

Coyote swaps have been done as far as modern goes (Im sure theres a few LS powered ones too but please no)

whatever you do keep that Q code somewhere safe tho