/CCG/ - Classic Car General

youtube.com/watch?v=9XfeqDOizdk
>tfw no autistic goofy boomer dad do show me how to install aftermarket A/C
anybody used an under dash kit before? Worried this is gonna be a fucking nightmare desu

I'll join in to trigger some people.

just get a vintage air kit

I did nigga

Just not looking forward to the install. I hate crawling around under the dash and steering column, always get sore as fuck

Well at least you don't have to turn into bat to change the fuses in the fuse box.

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some past owner painted my goldwing's engine and handle bars orange....

then I guess later on decided fuck orange, and quickly went over it with gray.

It looks like shit now.

Painted my valve covers and polished the chrome bits... lipstick on a pig but it's a bit better than before

Well it looks alright... Now just to hook literally everything up.

Only problem ... It's a really tight squeeze to the gas pedal. I'm thinking cut and weld the brake pedal further left on the arm, so I can come at the gas pedal from further left?

That picture makes it look a little worse than it is, but still, it's not ideal. This is as far right as it can be mounted

>Orange Ford engine
Consider me triggered

I went and looked at the 98, guy couldnt get it started and didnt mention the window rust. Basically wasted 150 mile trip, but my camaro did good 98% of the way and even got 14mpg!

Sadly the light switch shorted out (smoke and all) and i lost interior and tail lights. To make it worse, 5 miles from home, i got this random thumping from my rear wheel... turns out 2 studs holding the spacer sheared off, and looks like there were no nuts holding the spacer on! Some how made it to work without losing my wheel and got it all fixed up.

Still no lights, gonna order a new switch and hope it was just that.

>it's a kit kat outs himself as a retard episode

I know it's an Aussie Ford but I'm still triggered

>doubling down on the retardation
BRAVO

It happens. I've done worse

Looks like shit. Kys retard

hey user you liek my engine?

Better than his. Least it's honest

Make 427 out of yer turd

i cant even get close to it, fucking wasps invaded it again

thinking about putting an ad up for sale saying test drive at own risk, because of wasps

Anyone with experience roping in a window? Does it really matter how thick of a cord you use?

more foot pics plz

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>the hidden one in the left corner, thanks comrade

that's pretty lucky, good you're ok. Disappointing about the olds

I hate fucking with wheel studs. Try heating up the hub with a torch and knocking out the old ones, then going to a metric size so the new ones are just a tiny bit bigger. Of course then you'll need 2 different thread lug nuts on the same hub which you might forget. Fuck wheel studs

polish is nice but shouldve gone w the block color on the valve covers

>being mean on the internet

stupid question, I'd like to get the most miles out of my new poncho 400 since it's going to get daily driven. What oil / filter would be recommended for this task. Also another stupid question, can someone tell me where the little key / Seat belt warning buzzer noise generator is located on a second gen F body. I tried googling it first and still no luck.

The paint on the block is trashed so I'll be painting the when I get the chance. Next is the intake manifold though. My end goal is all black with plenty of chrome pieces, I like the contrast of it

One thing I've heard about oil is that going thicker isn't always better because the viscosity additives they put in hinder the oil's performance. I'd stick with 10w-30. As for the buzzing, I've got no clue. My third gen does it too, it's fucking horrible haha

I'll stick with 10w30 then, the buzzer doesn't work and I'd kinda like to fix it.

If the engine is particular trashed you can use rotella, I also tend to stick to partial synthetic 10w30 myself though. Full synthetic leaks a lot on some of my old motors. Usually castrol, fairly affordable

Used a rivit gun/hammer, made quick work of those studds. Got some slightly longer ones, got them pulled in with an impact, put the spacer back on (it was a little chewed up but i think itll work), gonna get some lug nut washers and retorque everything this week.

I was told to run 10w40, and ive had good luck.

I'm putting in a freshly built 400, might stick with Valvoline or napa premium since it's about the same.

Just don't use shitty Walmart oil and fram filters and you should be good

I stopped using fram after the fram filter that the previous owner used refused to come out. Had to puncture it with a screw driver to be able to thread it out.

Lol mines got a Fram stuck in it from the previous dickhead. I tried taking it out when I changed the oil but couldn't get it to budge... guess I'll have to get it next time

>his car has an oil filter
Nice "classics"

are there enough people in /ccg/ do to group buys? Most of our cars don't have too much in common but for tools and such it could work

If your vehicle had the option for factory add on a/c, you can get the factory parts so you don't have to have an underdash unit. I'm working with classic auto air to get the shit for my bronco to have a/c with a modern sanden compressor.

White Anglo Saxon Protestants?

I've finally returned with my tractor-sounding '88 Cutlass. Sold the Nova, sold the GTO, and I've almost finished the Trailer Park Special.

>his car has a dipstick for checking the oil
>he doesn't just looses babcocks underneath the vehicle to determine oil level
Nice "fords"

Clean that fucker now, boi.
I'd recc Meguiar's Ultimate Black. But don't let it touch the timing belt, it could make it squeal/come loose.

Me and my brother used Paracord when we did the back glass in my 93 dodge

and btw, it's not late ignition timing cause I already tried advancing the timing on the distributor and got nothing.

need to ripe that junk off the top and get a carb manifold

Its a U.S. Ford. The 144s came in blue, the 170s came in orange and red, and the 200s where also red/orange, until 1965 where they went all blue.

tffn.net/1960.html

Can somebody answer me why my 1978 Ford 400M engine is orange? Did somebody do that? What color would it have been from the factory?

What color is the rest of your engine bay?

Rust

[spoiler]I'll see if I can dig up a picture[/spoiler]

Cant speak for that engine and year. But from what I found from a quick google search it should ford dark blue not orange, so probably some repainted is my guess.

just convert it to mass air with a mustang ecu and get a moates

The engine bay is either surface rust or indistinguishable from all the dust. Intake manifold is red, block is orange, pan was orange (I painted it black when I repaired the drain plug), and valve covers are black. I'm guessing some chuckle fuck decided orange would be fun for some reason.

fug

How fucked is my E30?

How fucked is my E30 pt. 2: Taking it to a body shop tomorrow to see if they can weld in a new floor pan. Brake fluid leaked all over the place as the car sat for a year with a broken brake line. The guy I bought it from said it was "minor." I was blinded by the beauty of the rest of the 318is slicktop so I didn't give the underside a good check. woops

it will be way cheaper to buy another one and next time buy from a damn desert state

See if you can get your hands on some of that famous BMW 3M subframe glue for the E46s.

Kek.

oh and you will have to source a floor pan for them

>BMW 3M subframe glue
holy shit wtf why is this a thing why are euro cars such shit

b-but muh handling

>why are euro cars so shit
They're way more rigid without being any heavier. Shit on modern cars as much as you like for other things but structurally they're miles ahead.

Gonna dump some pictures from work and from set up day at a hot rod show my boss brought me to last Thursday to help him set up.

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That's not brake fluid, my man. That's salt. Brake fluid eats paint, not metal.

>implying its shit
Just because it isn't muh merican welded steel doesn't mean it isn't strong. The Lotus Elise has no welds on it. Its all modified aircraft monocaulk and it's stronger and lighter than welded steel.

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Austin-Healey 3000 BT7 that I've been assembling. Car came to the shop in boxes.

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Not that interesting of a Pontiac except it's in fantastic condition and was sold new in my home town.

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A nice 1947 Ford

How about an Oldsmobile pickup?

How have you liked the job and this place?

It's been pretty amazing and fun. I enjoy what I do every day, commute may not be great(50 miles/1 hour) but it doesn't really bother me. I enjoy the fact that most mechanics today would not be able to do what I do, and I enjoy the challenge of something different.

Took several years of searching and applying for jobs at restoration shops before I finally succeeded in getting a job at one.

Where is this? There's a resto shop in New Braunfels that I have daydreamed about working at from time to time, but I'm not sure they'd hire a college dropout with no formal training who works from home as a woodworker

Also how do you guys like my dad's vanity plate kek

What's the most fun test drive you've done?

Shop is in Allentown, PA

As of right now it's probably the boss' E-type that I took out of storage and had to drive around to make sure it all worked. I've moved some Ford GTs around when they come in but that's not driving it so it doesn't count. Most common cars that come in though are MG-Bs, Midgets, T series, Austin-Healeys, Spitfires, and E-types.

>Shop is in Allentown, PA
eyyyyyyy
Go south and experience some fresh Amish

>order parts from summit
>"there was an error processing your order, please call customer support"
>paypal says payment went through
>out $100 for nothin
>boomer summit guy: "well that's on paypal"
>filipino paypal lady: "obviously it's their mistake but we can force them to pay if they won't cooperate"
>god knows when I'll get my fucking cooling fan
Ugh

28 years old and slowly falling apart

The shitty part is that no matter how hard you try, all of the soft trim will fall apart eventually. With care, the hard mechanics will last forever, but there is just no saving that soft trim. It may take 50 years if well cared for, but it will happen.

Dumb question, pretty sure the radiator has to come out so I can install the condenser/new fan shroud etc. Do I really need to flush the whole system? It was operating fine before... I wouldn't even change the coolant if I didn't have to pull the radiator. Also, should I combing the service records to see what brand coolant went in last, or is the small amount left in the block after draining inconsequential

It's all cool until they start blocking every damn Bay

I'll raise that with a 46

Fuel injection, no carb.

Me again.
I spent the day trekking through a huge ass junkyard for the second time in two days.

Apparently they have a good selection of old shit (and from the looks of it, they did)
Old Alfa Romeos, Chevys, and shitloads of ford trucks.
They even had a few lincolns and mercuries (both brands were all the wrong years/hinge type)

Are late 60's/early 70's ford coupe parts that hard to find offline?
Am I damned to never finding a scrap heap to get parts from?