/dg/ Detailing General

Seasonal reminder than fall is coming up and it's almost time to strip and reseal you car famalams.

Share your favorite products, tricks, and tips.

>inb4 quirks and features

Other urls found in this thread:

m.youtube.com/user/AMMONYCdotcom
youtu.be/CFXfSBR5Q9w
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLvKbarVtwhUs7sIm9Hc9VgANltYl8_DwC
youtube.com/watch?v=upRecYDcOnU
youtube.com/watch?v=kcdyPqRlsS4
youtube.com/watch?v=sFnLGz0FQl4
youtu.be/_18VlRvxTsk
youtube.com/watch?v=U-7m5jnr4gU
youtube.com/watch?v=P_SEPVn_uOk
youtube.com/watch?v=aCnMZNq4ot0
amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_118_16-Anti-Corrosion-Protectant/dp/B001TFE38A/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
griotsgarage.com/category/caffeine gasoline.do
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

>I use armor all

For noobs:
>how to?
m.youtube.com/user/AMMONYCdotcom

>what products are good?
Meguiar's makes good products for relatively cheap

>what about tools/nonchemicals?
Makita makes a couple really good variable speed Random Orbital tools. Meguiar's makes good pads for paint correction. Microfiber towels and wash mits are plentiful on Amazon.

Careful prep and proper techniques make it easy for noobs and amateurs to achieve pretty impressive results.

Armorall stuff is meh, it's not terrible but their soaps don't foam very well.

Jet seal is good stuff

Does anyone do paint corrections on cars?

I use Meguiars 105 and it causes a lot of dust and it gets everywhere, Is there anything I can do to control it better or if something else out there is better for cutting?

I think you're working on too much area, when compound/polishing you do small sections at a time because it dries fast. You're not supposed to let it dry, if it does spray with quick detailer

You're using too much compound and most likely not in optimal temperature conditions.

Live in Florida and its hot and humid.

Ok, thanks. Noted

How long does it typically last, I've been looking at this as replacement for my current.

Can confirm, I used to try to work larger area, did exactly this and it isn't even hot here

Looking for a new sealant as well, I'm using Meguiars Paint Protect at the minute but I'm thinking either Menzerna Powerlock or Jet Seal. Jet Seal is 3x the price, is it worth it?

I've discovered my new favourite detailing spray, MadCow Ultra Violet. Edges out my previous favourite, CG P40, and it smells a lot nicer which is an added bonus.

Also, recently I learned the hard way to never combine a tar remover and a clay bar. Don't try it at home.

Kek did it break down the clay?

Can you please tell me what you're talking about when you say strip and reseal?

Watch some videos on 105 use and DA technique in general. I was using too much compound and not the right amount of pressure, wasting a couple hours.

Basically turned the clay bar into paste on the paintwork. Compound got the residue off but I was shiting myself trying to get it off with water or detailing spray.

Anyone have any ideas on how to remove this "fog". I washed and clayed but this patch is rough feeling like matte paint. It seems to be on top of the clear coat, but wasn't caused by the clay bar as I used plenty of detailing spray once and soapy water a 2nd time with a new piece of clay.

I wanna say it's overspray from something as there something similar to this discoloration on the bumper 1/3

Strip, meaning remove old wax and sealant from the car. I do this with Dawn dish soap as it's way too strong for the wax layer/sealant, car soaps are designed to not break down that layer. 50/50 isopropyl-water mix is even better for removing old wax

Reseal, meaning apply a new coat of sealant.

Wet sand with 1500 or 2000 grit then compound with 105?

...

Fuuggg

I dunno what that is. Looks like super rough paint, like something spilled on it or was rubbing up against it. Based on the swirls next to it it does look to be on top of the clear. I'd try a small area with some serious cutting compound, possibly wet sand.

If you do 3000, 5000, then Meguiar's M205, in a small area and go slow, it would probably get it off. Be super careful though wet sanding will fuck your shit up so fast if you are too aggressive.

...

Geez, what color is it as it's coming off?

It's not coming off. I washed twice, used a yellow mother's clay bar twice but both discolorations are still there

Here how about this other beauty mark I have. This is one of several that will not come off with clay or bug/tar/sap remover.

that looks like touch up paint

ThisYou're probably going to have to wet sand both desu.

youtu.be/CFXfSBR5Q9w

Relevant ChrisFix.

Here's the paint on my 350z after washing,claying and using Meguair's D300 correction compound, then Meguair's D301 finishing wax. Not a huge fan of this compound though, as it doesn't correct much, it's more of a glaze so it just hides the swirls. I'll do it right with some diamond cut next time but I'm too fucking lazy to do my own shit. I buff cars all day at work.

youtube.com/playlist?list=PLvKbarVtwhUs7sIm9Hc9VgANltYl8_DwC

Ah makes sense. Literally the answer right under my nose. Thanks everyone for the help

Why not m105 + m205?

1 step never seems to do anything. To be fair, early 2000s Nissan paint is hella soft

I use whatever we stock at work because it's free. I do probably have some of my own M105 laying around though. But the diamond cut + correction compound usually work fine. Like I said, I'm just lazy and tried to get away with 1 step, as the paint wasn't that bad. I'm going to have to take a Saturday to do it right eventually.

I've tried 1 step a few times because lazy, but I end up having to go back every time lol

Are those stock fx35 wheels?

They're the stock rays wheels that the nismos get. Staggered 19x10 rear, 18x9 front.

Thank you user!

Ah nice, they look nice.

Reminds me of the FX35 20s

Hey you, yeah you! I'm getting wheels overnighted from Japan, how can I best protect them from brake dust before installing? I thought of ceramic coating em but it's 350 bucks with only a 2 year lifespan. Is applying sealant my beat option every once in a while?

>he uses paste/liquid wax
>he doesnt use xpress wax
youtube.com/watch?v=upRecYDcOnU
youtube.com/watch?v=kcdyPqRlsS4
youtube.com/watch?v=sFnLGz0FQl4

Spray waxes are a meme ya dip

>being this blue pilled

Spray waxes work, they just aren't durable.

Spray waxes are good for touch up and removing old dry wax. Not a whole car.

what? so are you sayin you cant use them on most of the car?

good ones can last a few months, but they are so easy to apply, you can just reapply it in a few minutes every time you wash your car

They're shit, quick detailers are all that matter

I'll even spray my drying microfiber with spray wax to add a thin layer of wax when drying the car.

Im not saying you can't but its optimal to use a solid/paste wax rather than a spray if you are going to do a whole wax job on a car.

Spray waxing car is quick Mickey Mouse work

Quick detailers are for touch ups, removing contaminates, and have very little wax.

Months? Try a couple weeks. SEALANT lasts months. Quit being a dingus

This is also fine. Lubricant while drying is a good idea

Exactly, quick detailers are the only "spray waxes" that are useful. Now answer my question

Woops.

Probably this. This shit is insane.

Im actually hesitant to use this on my paint. Basically what you are talking about. It's not hard to apply, but yeah, generally your best bet for semi permanent solution.

Also this if you want to do bi-annually

Aaaannnnd forgot link
youtu.be/_18VlRvxTsk

Thank you kind wizard!

...

...

Saturday I learned orbitals are sex. Got the demonstration for free, got my own orbital now. Just need the time to do the whole car.

youtube.com/watch?v=U-7m5jnr4gU
youtube.com/watch?v=P_SEPVn_uOk
youtube.com/watch?v=aCnMZNq4ot0

time to get red pilled

Nice! What DA were you using?

just ordered some jet seal.Thought it was 40 bucks before, 28 now. Great stuff!
>amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_118_16-Anti-Corrosion-Protectant/dp/B001TFE38A/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Griot's Garage. Have you heard of them?

Well yeah, most of their DAs are well out of my price and skill range to justify.

Start with a clay bar and see if it does anything.

If that doesn't work, use a DA with a cutting pad and compound.

If it's still there, wetsand with 2000 grit, then 3000 grit, cut, and polish.

What skills exactly do you need?

Not necessarily that much, but it'd be like a novice guitarist buying a $3000 guitar. Sure I'd be able to use it, but I'd be better off allocating my money elsewhere, like professional lessons.

Griot's Garage main shop is in Tacoma, Washington. They provide free lessons there. Sure it was expensive up front but it's nowhere near a $3000 guitar and it pays for itself after one use considering how expensive details are.

Shit. goodthing that is like 1800mi away

Ha, the /WA/ Meet group should schedule a group appointment there as part of a meet event.

That would actually be pretty sick. There needs to be more people on here caring for their things

>Well yeah, most of their DAs are well out of my price and skill range to justify.

Really? I have a Griot's DA and I thought it was fucking cheap. $160 at autozone. It's held up surprisingly well though, 2 years of every day professional use and still as good as new. My friend's Meguiar's DA on the other hand, got loose and started wobbling really bad. Probably can fix it if you take it apart but he's not confident in doing so.

I got a makita one that was like 70 dollars, viable speed and everything, and it does extremely well.

Well I got another coworker that has a rupes DA that he paid over $300 for. So for me, that is what I consider expensive.

UK detailer. US and UK detailing is so different

Haven't washed my car in month because race car

havent washed my car in years because shitbox
let the rain take care of it

I think I'm about to give up and just go to a professional detailer. I tried and tried but I can never get the results that some of you guys get. It's either I miss a spot or I put too much wax on and don't get enough off, or I leave smudges and streaks everywhere. Does using a water softener have anything to do with that? I live in AZ and our water is pretty hard.

>I miss a spot
Touch it up with some wax and then wipe it off. It will now shine like the rest.

>I put too much on and don't get it off
Switch to using a fully synthetic wax which is easy to put on and easy to take off. If your removal cloth is clogged up with too much wax, then get a fresh one that is not clogged up. Trying to minimize the usage of cloths is a tradeoff that results in both tedious removal and not getting all of the dried wax haze off.

Water softener doesn't bother the wax since you've dried the car off and there are no dried up water softener mineral spots on the paint. Microfiber does remove a lot of the wax off. I like to wipe gently so as not to totally remove all the wax with the MF cloth.

When applying, don't pour a lot on the surface. Some people put a few dabs of liquid wax on the applicator and then wipe with it. That's how I do it. I would not use paste wax in the arizona heat. Liquid goes on thin and that's all that's needed.

Synthetic wax like meguiar's ultimate or turtle wax ICE is easy to remove. It's also easier to apply than meguiar's gold class which is also a bitch to remove from trim.

Smearing thick coats of wax is useless (and wasteful). Only a very thin coat of wax remains after you wipe it off anyways. That's why I don't wipe hard with the MF and I also don't re-wipe any waxed spot over and over and over because that would only cause the MF to remove the wax. MF cloth is just too good at sucking things off the surface and that includes wax if too much wiping is done.

Okay, so I've done a full compound and detail on about 5 different cars now, and my own car around 3-4 times now with excellent results.
I've found it saves a lot of time to half-ass drying the car before/after I clay it. I figure that while I'm claying, the water spots will all be picked up, and if it mars the paint at all, it'll be very superficial and I'm about to compound the paint anyway. I also think that when I buff, the clay/quik detailer juice shouldn't mess with the cut of the m105 too much, and when I go on my final polishing pass (m205 with a rupes yellow pad/white finishing pad) whatever small imperfections possibly left by that are completely gone as now I'm dealing with a sterile paint surface.
Am I being lazy if I yield the same end result, or am I working smarter? Or am I really not getting the same end result? The results seem imperceptible side by side. Pic related was done the "wrong" way, before is an example of a "complementary detail with service" at 4k miles, paint on the C pillar was so badly scratched that it needed a repaint, looked like they used a brillo pad on a rotary polisher with scratch-X.
Bonus question would be this same thing but with washing the car, not claying, and then applying wax without properly drying, which I don't do.
/textwall

If you're about to buff the car you don't need to wipe all the quick detailer spots off from claying the car. That's what we do all the time at work to save time. As far as waxing your car without drying, this is a stupid idea, however a better option is to use a spray wax while the car is still wet and then dry the areas as you spray wax them. The spray wax helps making the drying process quicker and adds an extra layer of wax to the car.

>As far as waxing your car without drying
When I said properly drying, I didn't mean still wet, I meant leaving water spots and what not.
Good to know I'm not the only one to do the first part of it tho

>I've done a full compound and detail
Please don't apply polishing compound. Each time you apply compound, it thins the clear coat.

How else are you supposed to remove swirls and imperfections?
Unless you think I meant that every time I detail my car, I compound it?

>I've done a full compound and detail on my own car around 3-4 times now
Why do you apply compound to your car so often?

again not what I meant homie,
>and *detailed* my own car around 3-4 times now.
once or twice a year I'll go over it with some pre-wax glaze on a finishing pad if it's picked up any swirls but with soft jap single stage from the 90s that's actually not too bad.

I'd be interested to see how much it actually takes off if I could get my hands on a larry kosilla™ paint thickness gauge

Anyone on here use powerlock by Jescar?

It looks pretty good

Thinking about buying it too, the reviews seem great and there's no doubt Menzerna makes good products.
Go and be the guinea pig for it, if not I will since I'm just about finished with my Megs M21

Lol I'm literally in the same spot I got about a 1/3 bottle of M21 left. I just wanna try something different before I go ceramic coating

Only circumstance I would be interested in ceramic coatings would be as an AMMO reflex base coat, while still applying sealant over it every time I wash my car (2-3x a month) in some kind of ghetto ammo paint regimen.

Not too sure on if it would look any better or yield better protection than just sealant though, especially at those intervals where the sealant has almost certainly not worn away.

I wouldn't do that either. Water spots have harmful minerals in them and you're basically sealing those into the paint which could hurt the clear coat in the long run.

I'm sure there is diminishing returns. Ceramic coatings usually last a couple years from the ones I've seen. Layering that with sealant seems like it would be I'll advised

AMMONY is too rube goldberg expensive for me

Not so much the products as much as the fundamentals he teaches.

>I wanna say it's overspray from something
You could have damage from any number of courses. Long ago, there was this fad of spraying a chemical onto wooden shingles to improve their water shedding ability. It didn't really make them last longer though because the two ideas were excluisve to each other.

That spray could drive thru the air and land on cars damaging their paint. Or it could even be a mechanic in a shop had a rag with solvent or other brake fluid from bleeding someone's brakes. And walking by, the rag bumped against the car and the bumper.

>They provide free lessons there.
It's not free if you have to buy a bunch of their gear first at full price at their shop.

Oh. That's super not free

>Griot's Garage main shop is in Tacoma, Washington. They provide free lessons there.

Actually, they have free events held at their facility similar to "cars and coffee" as well as other car care events. You can show up and watch the free demonstrations of their products. They jazz it up and call it a "school" but we all know it is a polished demonstration of their various products. Of course you can sort of ignore the salesmanship stuff and talk to other car owners that show up.

griotsgarage.com/category/caffeine gasoline.do

If those WA meets start later in the day such as noon onwards, then meeting at Griot's to catch their earlier car care "classes" would work. After the first set of classes, the WA group can drive off. Shinier and prettier until the bugs splat all over the cars.

The first saturday of the month (today) is when they have their largest public Meets where people show up with their extra shiny cars to show off against each other. KentuckyBro is too far away, but he could pit his car against such types of amateur car detailers vying to be better and better.

Foaming interior fabric cleaner removes water spots most of the time.

Don't buy dark colored cars.

>That's super not free
The product demonstrations (aka "school") are free. If you show up at their monthly event, those go on all day. Otherwise, you call ahead to find out when they have their next "school" and show up. They're happy to demo products all the time to questions at their showroom shop. But the "school" sessions are more detailed.

Two plus microfiber towels are $19.99 for 16 inch by 16 inch squares. The same "750" type but not as pretty ones are cheaper at walmart. Or a pack of 30 MF towels at Costco is $15 at Costco or 36MF at Sam's for $16. The warehouse club ones are less plush, but that actually is a plus if you are using them to remove wax or debris. If too plush, there is no where for the wax to go but cake up on top.

Either way Id love to do a class /school for this stuff. It's so therapeutic