What are you currently putting off on fixing in your car Veeky Forums?

brake fluid leaking

Rust fixes, suspension fixes and i think the clutch work cylinder is about to blow.

Broken windscreen

Didn't affect the inspection so I'll just do it some time later

what inspection?

replacing clutch at 160k miles on my mazda 3

Like the MOT, but not in the UK

t. Europoor

Curb scuffs on my rims. It'll take hours to do it right and I know I'll just do it again right after I've fixed it up. Fucking narrow ass 200 year old streets in my town are not designed for cars.

Some stupid valve in the injection system that's making it hesitate on cold starts and put out gasoline fumes.

>tfw finally got worse and almost left me stranded at 4am on my weekend

Guess it's time to get it fixed.

Power steering, $600 after labor. I overpaid for the car and already have well over $1k in it than the thing would be worth without any problems.

glow plugs - 2006 jeep cherokee

i don't have the time to do it, so i got a quote...

$250ish if all goes well, but 90% chance that one of the 4 11 year old ceramin glow plugs (ceramic? wtf jeep, WHY?) will snap, which means heap off, machined, vrs kit, etc, etc, etc... 2 and a half FUCKING THOUSAND DOLLARS

doesn't get cold enough here to really worry, starts fine 99% of the time, so fuck it

*ceramic
*head off

pls no bully, end of a long day

Control arm bushings, oil change and brake pads

Fuckin rust in passengers floor pan
Leaky bits in roof thanks to shitty 27 year old rain rail
Radio surround rattles
Aerial is a bit shit and I should replace it
Air filter is probably a bit fucked by now too

>mx5

I know how you feel. Got my arches and sills welded up this year and thought I'd be good for a while. Now I've got rust coming through next to the left tail light and I'm not sure if I should try and treat it or just man up and have someone chop it out. Sure would be nice to know how to weld right about now.

Radio

That fact that I don't own a car.

I got rear ended. So I gotta buy another car.....

>rust in rocker panels
>rust in floor pans
>rust in kick panels
>rust in cab corner
>rust in core support
>intermittent wipers that rarely work after replacing switch, control module and wiper motor
>drivers window doesn't roll up worth shit
>valve covers leak
>2 intake bolts began leaking oil recently
>fuel filter has 34,000 miles on it in a year
>air filter is dirty even though it's a few months old
>replaced spark plugs, didn't do the cap and rotor
>either alternator or power steering belt is loose, only happens near redline so just don't do that
>carb runs rich but it runs well so fuck it
>have had new wiper linkage for 8 months, sitting in a box
>new air vents also awaiting install
>haven't bothered dropping the second gas tank and seeing if its useable or not
>rebuilt th350 began puking fluid when parked overnight out of the blue after being fine for a year
>every bushing is 36 years old and shot
>eyeball alignment has ruined drivers side tire with its sick camber
>probably should replace the u joints just due to having 236k miles on them
>emergency brake cable isn't adjusted
>radiator overflow tank has a crack in it
>motor randomly runs somewhat hot according to gauge, will fluctate randomly from normal to "getting hot" on gauge, doesn't matter if it's 10* outside or 90*, on highway or in traffic, just happens
>know for a fact it's not the gauge because the heater air gets much hotter
>bench seat frame is busted on drivers side
>no lap belt, only shoulder, PO cut the lap belt off
>ditched 2.73 gears for 3.42s and haven't fixed speedo gear yet

I'm forgetting things I'm sure. I'm a lazy piece of shit sometimes.

What car? It sounds like an older Ford truck to me

Slow leak in a tire
Oil change
Gas gauge doesn't work
Radio doesn't work

F-150 1997
Intake manifold gasket
Oil seals
rust
Paint
Top and bottom ball-joints

Thought this might be the best place to ask this without making a new thread:

My 2005 chevy impala's flashing check engine light just turned on and smelled weird, sounded like clicking, and shook the car when not in motion. How fucked am I and should I just resign to taking Ubers to and from work ftom now on? Is it even worth towing to a mechanic and spending 300 bucks just to find out the dasmage?? Thanks if you answer

>Passenger CV joint clunks and needs replaced
>reverse sensor in transmission doesn't work, needs replaced
>factory subwoofer has been sitting in the trunk for months, haven't installed it yet
>headlights getting really hazy again

I'll do it eventually.

I wish I understood why it was so hard.

Go to your local advance auto or autozone. Get them to check the engine light. Its FREE and it will tell you what the light is.

Then go on google, and type.

YEAR MAKE MODEL CODE #/PROBLEM WITH CAR

Read to figure out what might be wrong. Then read some more, and keep reading. I guarantee you, unless you drive a custom car, that someone has fixed the problem you have and posted how to do it online.

If you cant even do that basic ass shit to find out the issue you should probably just kill yourself.

that's a bunch of different issues in one.

>flashing check engine light
Just get some electrical tape, and cover it up.
>smells weird
Black Ice is the go-to for that
>sounded like clicking
Replace your CVA's, or top off oil
>car shaking stationary
Move out of Chicago.

Not so much putting off, more so "need to do" on my project car - '78 Chrysler Sigma Scorpion (Mitsubishi Galant Lambda).

So drive 15 miles with something very wrong with my engine to get a code(hopefully), google the code, find out my engine is misfiring for example, buy all the tools and teach myself to fix engines while on the side of the street.

Btw don't tell people to kill themselves

Everything

kill yourself with a gun

>tfw a man gives you boner
fellas ? is it gay ?

Your life is too easy my friend

I have to put off fixing the rust on my 1999 c180 because it's yearly inspection time next month and my brakes aren't great and my tires are bad.

It's too bad, there is always something new that breaks in it, preventing me from making it look nice, would be real nice if it could just survive a year without any expensive repairs needed, and then I could make it all shiny.

Get a Bluetooth obdii scanner that connects to your phone and the Torque app for it. Figure out the code yourself and fix the damn thing. Probably just your spark plugs or some shit because you were too retarded to ever replace them

>fix my car over the internet for me please
>no i won't Google anything
>no i won't get a code reader
>now fox my car while i throw personal attacks at you

Says the one trying to throw away his car because it's misfiring

plus its a chevy impala lel

I asked for practical advice. You or whoever, told me to kill myself because I can't fix my own car.

>ask how to fix car
>get answer
>i dont wanna do that ur a retard for suggesting it

You guys are dicks. I suck at cars

I can buy a code reader, but I can't fix a car, and if the code reader doesnt work Im back at square one minus 80 bucks, and if it can I have to tow it anyways and get a quote tgat could cost me thousand of dollars for a 2005 car that I was about to change the whole front end on(tire rods, sway bar, and control arm, plus 4 new wheels next week). So, should I really go down that path or buy a new car?

I just installed a test pipe and I'm trying to correct the A/F ratios so it doesn't throw a code.

Performance gain is too good to go back.

81 Chev squarebody, actually.

>has $8000 in drivetrain between everything under the hood, tranny, and new rearend

>but I can't fix a car
That's where you're wrong bud. Fixing cars isn't some magic power or some shit. It's literally turning a wrench to remove bolts and replacing the part that's broken. That's literally it

Carb swap

Yeah I have fixed wheel bearings, control arms, water pumps, starters, alternators, tire rods, and a bunch of other stuff. That was with my old roommate who tried teaching me these things. Turns out, I am terrible at it. I strip everything, can't turn half of the wrenches because its too tight, can't figure out where things go without looking directly at them with clear space(even oil changes are hard for me, and belts almost impossible). I mean, I've spent months under guidance and didn't improve, not for lack of motivation. I told you, I suck at cars, anything with spacial intelligence I can't do, so I am being serious when I say I can't fix cars

Tires :( and fuel pressure is weak when i start my car in the cold :(

I did an inner tie rod and despite my best efforts the alignment is noticeably off now. I should probably get it aligned right haha. I definitely shouldn't drive it around for 2 weeks like normal lol only an idiot wood do tbag

Go to a Mexican tire shop, used tires are usually less than $30 a pop and new ones about $40. Fuck people who pay $800 or more for a full set of new tires (Like a woman I know at work)

>being this edgy on a board that's not /b/ or /pol/ Literally fuck off Reddit scum, here on Veeky Forums we help anons who ask questions as long as they aren't semi retarded and are worded politely.

My fucking transmission.
>can't sell it as I'd never get enough money to buy a car of similar value
>can't fix it because bills and poor
Feels bad man

That's what you get for being an autotragic, LOL FAG.

But in all seriousness, just stop being a poorfag,

Yeah I replaced my cv joint axle on the drivers side two weeks ago and noticed my steering wheel was a bit to the right when I drove straight. Was due for an alignment anyways and the mechanic said the only troubled area was the drivers side being off alignment lul. So yeah you probably fucked yours.

>Put car on trailer and pull it home
>Pull its motor back out of a truck
>Replace the rear frame rails
>Fix quarter panel rust
>Find all of its other parts that are somewhere in my grandmother's barn
>Clean and/or paint everything as I put it back together
>Look for the seats, probably just buy new ones
Its still in better condition than my cutlass, which I am currently patching the frame and the floor on and will have to use a fuck ton of body filler on it.

I've become lazy as fuck.
>Miata
>Took six months to replace brake pads, discs, and lines - need to re-bleed the brakes (I think) because brakes were complete shit when I took it for a test drive
>It's been sitting in the garage for nine months now
>Thought I'd get it taken care of in a month or two
>Didn't add any fuel stabilizer so I guess I wasted $35 to fill the tank
>Infiniti also needs brake work
>Neglect both cars
>Now they both have dead batteries
>Even gained 25 lbs since I stopped driving miats
why am i still here... just to suffer?

>oil change
>bushings for engine cover
>hood heat shield
None of these things need to be fixed right away and I'm in a place where I'm not allowed to change my oil so....

Alright you fucking pleb. If you have the 3800 engine you're in luck, because this is probably going to be easier than you think it is. You're gonna need two people for this.

Go to the coil pack on top of the engine, and take out the top two plug wires. Have someone crank the engine over and see if a spark will jump the gap. If it does, plug the wires back in and repeat for the middle two wires. Same thing for the last two wires.

If the spark doesn't jump on one of them guess what, you have a bad coil. Which would be causing your misfire. Super common on these engines, and if you actually scrap that car because of a *misfire* never return to this board.

Forgot to mention, don't make up an excuse not to do this like "muh engine damage" because doing this test won't hurt anything. 3.8's have a waste spark system, so you won't cause any damage.

1) Set of tires
2) Brake job
3) O2 sensor
4) New battery

The paint

Front suspension

Was supposed to drop the car off today at the shop, didn't do it and now just sitting at home ..............

>Camshaft position sensor
>rumbles at first/second gear change
>small vibrations when coming to a complete stop
>Interior top felt sagging in back
>Sunroof leaks and won't close if I open it all the way (opening it at an angle is fine)
I don't really care desu. I have a VW and it's a beater. I plan on junking it soon.

Getting my ass downstairs and washing the fucking thing

Ive got a pile of parts just waiting. But now i need to install them. Shits getting sketck. But all the parts piggy back on each other and i want to get it all done in one go.

Bugeye
>steering rack need to be replaced
>brakes are worn (have 4-2 pot conversion waiting)
>stock wheels wont fit over new brakes and tires are worn (have a set of rct4's but they need to have the powder coat stripped)
>suspention is on its way out (have rebuilt bc coils but one of the mounts are cracked and i need a new one)

my shitty 96 impreza deserves a better owner

need to fix:
>oil leak (replace seals)
>new water/oil pump
>new rotors and pads

not important:
>rear wiper motor fucked
>seats slashed (from previous owner)

Rough idle but don't really care since it's my third car that I barely use maybe like 50 miles a month

get in your car gadt damnit

Tie rod ends, should do a whole front end kit on it, but man being in school means I'll have no fun money for the rest of the semester if I buy the parts

Suspension, because people want drug-money for secondhand coilovers

Got a vacuum leak somewhere, I just don't feel like chasing tubes for an hour just to find where.

>replaced lines
>didn't bleed brakes
jesus dude

O2 sensor or caty converter cant tell which, also new gaskets on my oil pan, maybe a valve cover to fix my oil consumption issue and plugs and wires

I don't live where there's road salt or anything (doesn't get cold enough) so this is all from POs not clearing the drains and generic neglect lol.
Had the thing since late 2015 and man, the shit that came outta the side drains. Fuckin 10 cent coin stuck in there???

Pic sorta related - ground all the rust out the boot, killed it, painted, and put this plastic shit in.

flushed the brake fluid on my DD
need to do all the engine maintenance tho
>timing belt
>valve cover gaskets
>camshaft seals
>front main crankshaft seal
>spark plugs and wires
>dizzy cap and gasket
and the p/s pump leaks like a bitch but idc

other DD is much nicer
>control arm bushings
>upstream o2 sensor

and two trucks than need new head gaskets
and a project truck
and no time to do it all

why would you ever put anything off? don't you care about you car?

A weakling with no social ability. So, a woman.

For some reason when I fill up my mustang the pump shuts off long before the tank is actually full.
Bizarrely turning the nozzle upside down fixes the problem so it's not a big deal at the moment.

probably need new distributor cap and rotor

Rear tires on my car cause they're over $600 and that's just for fairly good tires, if I want the really good ones they're $800++. Fronts are old as fuck too but they have good tread and not dry rotted either so I'm putting those off even longer. They're an additional $500 or so, not looking forward to it.

I need to replace my shocks and foglights and I need to clean the filter on my intake

rust repairs is torture it takes so long then the whole thing needs body work and bog and hours of sanding for prep work for painting

My car had poor throttle response at low RPM.
My issue I thought was either incorrect fuel pressure, or a vacuum leak. And since I don't have the gauge needed to get the fuel pressures I wanted to look for vacuum leaks, but the design of the engine means you have to pull the intake manifold off to really get a feel for what the fuck the vacuum lines are doing.
So I pulled the entire thing apart, and I think there were two vacuum leaks but I don't really know. I put it all together according to the vacuum diagram, not the car idles 250rpm below spec and the exhaust smokes.

I imagine my intake manifold gasket it letting some coolant into the intake, it's all I can think of.
Good news is the throttle response seemed pretty fucking ace.

I'm putting it off because I don't want to fuck with it anymore in the car, so I'm saving money to buy a timing belt, tensioner, and full gaskets and I'm just going to pull the engine to do it all.
People claim you can do the timing belt with the engine in the car but I don't believe it. You can only see the top of the belt and it's maybe one inch from the firewall. People also claim you can do the distributor and oil filter without removing the intake manifold and I think that's fucking bullshit too. I have no idea how you're expected to adjust timing because the distributor is under the fucking intake manifold which has the throttle bodies on it, and you need it all hooked up because you need to the boost to run through the fuel distributor.

It's a fucking nightmare.

lol youre so cute user

>brake pads
>bumper light
>fog light
>rings
>loose heat shield
>quarter panel rust
>leaking sunroof
>02 sensor

Sounds like a misfiring issue. Is the vehicle restricted to any mph when you drive?

>transmission rumbles
>rear main leaking
>rear shocks leaking
>front left swaybar link keeps bending
>right hand rocker gasket leaking
>fuel pump maybe on its way out
Maybe I should just burn it instead of fixing it

Start by checking the code

Also
>front right CV boot twists itself
>untwist it
>check back a few weeks later
>its twisted again

>Leakage in the upper part of the fule tank.
>Can only flll up the tank 3/4
>Connection for one of the rear lights is busted and the bulb gets knocked loose on rough roads.
>Cupholders ect are starting to break
>Crack somewhere in the front window our window sealing so water sometimes gets in when the car is washed. (Won´t leak in the rain tough)

1997 E38

Cleaning it to be honest. The dashboard is dusty, the floormats are dirtier than some of the ground I park on, and I let rain and windscreen washers take care of the outside.

>oil leak
>oil flush/change
>coolant leak
>coolant flush/change
>air bag light (going to tape over it because quoted $5000 to fix FUCK OFF STEALER SHITS)
>radio (unhooked battery, don't have code to unlock radio RIP. At least I can now hear my turbo I guess)
>car needs a full detail too been putting that off for a while now