Most undervalued sub $3k shitboxes on the market?

Everyone knows about how Civics,Corolla,Accords and Camrys are reliable and long lasting, and their used values reflect that.

What are some good sub $3000 cars that are decently reliable and long lasting, but otherwise have poor resale value and are cheap?

Other urls found in this thread:

nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2006-black-chevy-colbolt-ss/6278466982.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2001-toyota-celica/6264249244.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1989-mercury-grand-marquis-ls/6294698183.html
youtube.com/watch?v=z5rRZdiu1UE
forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3748902-DIY-Drain-Refill-on-09A-Tiptronic-Transmission
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Every E30 ever.

Get a late 90s Camry. They go for $1000. Midsize is cheaper than compact in that range, but the camry is the most fuel efficient mid size. I got mine for $800. It was one owner and a highway car.

Not anymore

>EVERY BMW E30
>under 3k

you are either stupid or just ignorant.

Yes you can buy an E30 under $3k but that that point you are better off buying a Honda Civic because the E30 will be a rusty unreliable shitbox.

Most E30s for sale in the USA are over $5k even with 200k+ miles

You also don't want a shitty civic because the camry is leagues better in comfort and even style. Civics are too light, and you will make many jumps over bumps.

I completely forgot to search for Camry's, I've mostly been looking at Civics or Panther platform fords. All of the camrys are autotragic so must've missed them in the searches.

chevy cobalt is usually overlooked and undervalued. For example I test drove a 2008 for $1600 with 120k miles.

nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2006-black-chevy-colbolt-ss/6278466982.html

This is tempting because muh 200hp, but I'd be afraid of a turbo (or super idk) mid 2000's chevy grenading

Yeah but its a thousand bucks. if the engine poops the bed it will be worth 800. plus the engine will probably be fine

I could probably do the work, but I don't have experience with cars too much, need it to pass inspection here or else I'd leave the exhaust alone.

>Civics are too light, and you will make many jumps over bumps.

>be me
>breaking in my new (to me) 90s civic
>tfw no power steering
>go to cul-de-sac to turn around
>be going around 30mph
>jerk it a little too hard right, overcompensating for how hard I have to turn a wheel without power steering
>a quick and fast left
>kick my back end out
>tfw accidentally Scandinavian Flicked my civic
>do it again on purpose just for fun

miata

>miata
>poor resale value
>nh
If you could find me a decent one here for that much, I'd be genuinely suprised

>in the USA

FUCCCCKKKK YOU HELL NO DO NOT GO THERE... the cobalt is literally our most replaced transmission right behind dodge rams in the trans shop I work at.

Nissan D21
Celica
Crown Vic
Festiva
Metro
Mazda B series trucks (the legit Mazda ones, not the Ford Ranger rebadges)
you can still get the 4 banger E30's for cheap

i wanna fug sayuki

Can't argue with those digits. What are the least replaced ones?

>Celica
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2001-toyota-celica/6264249244.html
Suprising, fairly reasonable even up here, must've gotten them mixed up with supra's price wise.

Suzuki. Just as reliable as Toyota or Honda without the rice tax. Parts are still cheap in North America.

Saturns. Those plastic little shitboxes are great in the northeast. The trouble is actually finding those that exist.

Geo Prizm

nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1989-mercury-grand-marquis-ls/6294698183.html
First one i've caught within the first few days. Spotted $800 old vics, but sold everytime I emailed.

youtube.com/watch?v=z5rRZdiu1UE

bump.

You're out of your fucking mind. The car may be great if you buy it brand new, but the reason why so many of them are out there is because they're cheap and they're bought as disposable people will literally drive them till they fall apart without doing any maintenance at all

Smart cars and mini coopers.

fuck off, Jimmy

Mk1 focus, and if it breaks theres parts everywhere dirt cheap. Unless you buy a ST or SVT that is.

>buying a car that teenagers can and will flip over while it's parked for a giggle
>buying british and expecting value or reliability

im a mechanic and i work on them all the time. they all have the same basic issues that are cheap and easy to fix. wheel bearings, struts and strut mounts, rear coils break, sway bar links, and rust. pick up a rust free one for about 1000-1500. spend about 500 on parts and 500 on labor and you have a reliable shitbox to take you from A-B. or get a maintained one for 2k-2.5k.

S A T U R N

The choice of real men and scholars.

The early ones were very well made and their owners seemed to live them.

Saab 9-5 Aeros and Saab 9000s can be had for under 3000.

volvo 240

I've been considering a Chevy Cobalt SS. Are they actually good? I'm just getting into car repair and I'd like one I can mod for speed.

Failing that, suggestions for sub $5000 smallish/two-door with comfy interior, decent mileage, and speed fuckability?

I got a mkIV jetta for 2k. Needed timing beltd and pcv hosed replaced (cost like 1k because it's a turbo) but it's gucci now.

Then again i dont see many jettas under 3k i think i was lucky.

basically any redblock volvo, try for 89 and up for the better wiring harness.

Protégé5, provided you don't live in the rust belt.

You can buy a Mk1 ST170 for less than €3k here and cars are expensive usually.

The reason I'm looking for a shit box is because my taurus is rusted to bits, yay rust belt.

...

What specific models should I look for?

>The only reason Mako lost was because Sayuki's massive sweater cows were too heavy

It's largely to do with the fact Ford doesn't make any of the parts anymore.

any RWD volvo from 89 up. 240, 740, 940. turbo or N/A. manual or auto. i got ths 1990 245 5spd for only $250. to get it running and driving is still under $300.

from what i remember from o they're lightweight reliable and easily tuneable.

This
Was my first car. I still haven't been able to replicate the feels it gave me.

Which engine? Finding one that hasn't had the piss beaten out of it or "it drives fine buuuut....." for under 3k.

Or the dumbfucks who think their blacked out GLI is actually worth 12 grand

20v turbo. Its biggest issue is a cracked exhaust flex which makes starting in the morning noisy. Apart from that all the work i had done was just due maintenance from normal use.

2012 Kia Forte.

I know what you're thinking. Stupid Korean junk. My neice got one for near 3k used 2 years ago from some rental car reseller.

Thing is a tank. Has over 200k miles on it and runs smooth with pretty good gas mieage. As a favor to her mom, I change the fluids regularly so I get to see under the hood and engine and everything looks tip top so far.

She drives this thing hard too.

mein niger

Had it since 123k, 152k now and going strong still

Holy fuck I'm worried that turbo will one day shit itself entirely.

Also, if you have an 09a with higher miles, change your trans fluid. Apparently it's "sealed for lyfe xD xD" (I've been told this by multiple dealer techs). It isn't, change it, it will make a world of difference.

I didn't until 148k and I regret not doing it the day I bought it.

Kek i bought it with 280k. But the market here, cars under 2.5k has at least 240k.

Do you have the same turbo? Im a city driver so i dont really use it to full potential.

Also not a car guy so what's an 09a?

Unless yours isn't stock we have the same. Evidently, from what I understand, once they start cresting over 150k miles they'll just one day die. Keeping up with the oil changes is important as a result, otherwise it starts fucking up the seals. I'd imagine those failures are typically following VW spec. They want 10k mile interval full synthetic oil changes, which they want $100+ for. I do it every 5k just to be safe

09a is a transmission code, specifically meaning for those mk4 models the 5 speed tiptronic.

forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3748902-DIY-Drain-Refill-on-09A-Tiptronic-Transmission

In addendum to the link, don't use mercon V or the like in the tranny, use the OEM spec fluid. There should be german on the bottle. A lot of german.

This, the ecotec engines are fairly stout and can make good power with just a tune alone

Ah, well mine is nearly double that and goin good so far. But yeah i just got new hoses and seals put in. I dont know exactly when the oil was last changed but dipstick is still full, albeit the oil is on the darker side now (still has that gold/brown outline when put against a light)

Infiniti G20 / Nissan Primera
Legendary SR20DE engine
Multi link front suspension
LSD and 5spd manual available

>check craigslist with a refreshed enthusiasm with all the potential cars to look at
>for more than half of the cars, there isn't even any here because rust ate them all up