/hg/ 本田

Had a 2012 civic
got rid of it for this one

Bad. I'll take it off your hands. I won't tell anyone how bad you are. PM me.

Lemme know how that goes. I'm waiting to do an alternator job on my car but it hasn't quit on me yet. Pretty surprising given the miles I've done on it in two and a half years.

I'm not convinced, you could have gotten that photo from anywhere. Bread on steering wheel.

open or closed

Insurance has written the Accord off as a total loss; a claims rep called later telling me I would need to go to their office to take care of their settlement tomorrow.

The value of the car was higher than I expected, but with the gap insurance, it'll be enough to pay off the loan.

So I'm now carless.

Open

Fuuuck so you end up having to pay out of pocket for your next car? Fucking trees, man. Hope you guilt tripped the neighbors.

Are you forced to pay of the rest of the loan or can you just postpone it for now to get another car?

...

Alright, I'm seeing this, but that still could have come from anywhere.

Bread in exhaust. No, bread in exhaust and on trunk.

now you're just being silly

No, my chance to get the check was gone once they asked if I had the title.

No, I'm being through.

Guess it's a good thing you had the gap then. What's the plan now?

Whats in it for me mr Honda

You get to explain to your neighbours why you ran around taking photos of bread on your car for half an hour.

You've gone this far, why stop? Will a photo help?

I guess try to finance another car before my rental needs to be returned Saturday.

RIP accord, that's a shame.

Is there anything you're looking at now?

Man thass a noOob moOove. You should've kept both

you win mr honda

Wrong exhaust.

Take another headlight shoop for compensation.

Already replaced it 3 years ago. It's a pain in the neck since it's towards the back like your Corolla iirc. The oem one lasted 21 years

I saw a fucking Evo for $250/month but the insurance is, of course, too fucking high!

I'm probably going to get a Civic, Corolla, or another CM, but with a fucking manual transmission this time!

>BHPH
>24%APR

If you're going with any Civic above 2000, a manual is a must for reliability.

A18 will be black and white in the collage user. Sorry for your loss

I had a 01 Civic manual with 280k miles ran like a charm

Evo would be sweet but you'd probably get raped by the AWD gas mileage along with that insurance. Hope you find a sweet manual car.

It's not too bad on the Corolla. It's on the front left kinda hugging the radiator. I've bent a bunch of radiator fins changing that bitch twice. Civic seems like a pain since it's in the back right chilling under the intake manifold.

At least our starter motor is easier to reach.

Mine's only got 187k miles, 301xxx kms

I found a new appreciation for stock cars while looking for my AP1 after seeing all the Cletus Motorsports S2000s here in California

Ok

Thanks
Fuck gas mileage if you have a fuckin Evo!

But, yeah... fucking insurance on sport cars.

True. I'd be terrified of owning one though. Heard that they're a bitch to keep running.

In my bros corolla (89) it was pretty much in the same spot as our civic. I forgot they moved it for the next generation.

>>user driving
>youtu.be/ct715uowKPs

is this meant to be ironic? if not PLEASE don't pretend your 90hp automatic economy car is fast. you're an embarrassment to us all

Your neighbors probably think you're weird as fuck for putting bread everywhere.

I don't get it either. Plus he's driving with his 2-ways on for no reason.

fuck em
they dont got and ap1

Nice car though. Post more interior pics tomorrow user.

Sure
Only thing that sucks is the radio is stock so no aux. Gonna have to make some fukin CDs

at least he kept it under the speed limit
Me and the FA5 guy almost went to prison 4ever this weekend

Kek you guys went out again? What shitty conditioned streets did ya'll cruise on this time?

Immaculate brand new asphalt

There's a spot near me that's perfect for hooning. And since everybodys shit was working, had 2 race

Who won?

First race, start from a 10mph roll.
I started in first, I guess he started in 2nd. I jumped out and was ahead through all of 1-2-3 and 4th up until about 110mph when we started going uphill and his torque did its job. (his 2.4L vs my 1.8)

2nd race also 10mph roll we went downhill and he tried to start in first. I think his vtec cut out in first gear because lol no oil pressure and so I got so far ahead he couldnt catch.

Both times he started like a nose ahead of me though cause hes a fucking cheater lmao.

We didn't really get a clean run in but then the cops were all over looking for us and on the way back one got behind him and followed for a good 1/4 mile and was going to pull his ass over but we signaled and turned onto my driveway

Also his exhaust is so loud it popped my ear

Als let me just say once we were going uphill it wasnt even close. I couldnt gain any more rpm after 7000 and he kept winding it up no problem. That torque is serious

Sounds like it's aroun my Supra's lead unless your CRX is faster than when I raced it before

my girlfriend was in the crx when we raced and i had random craigslist tires on.

I have falken azenis now and we raced no gfs allowed

Also the supra jumped out like a fucking car length when we hit it, I was scared lmao

Selling my motorcycle to buy a new daily because my current daily is on its way out. How's this look to you guys? I know nothing about Hondas apart from their ease of maintenance, reliability, and massive community.

Hypothtically this would obviously be my fuel-efficient commuter, but are these things any fun in the canyons? I'm really going to miss carving the twisty roads and hopefully this can at least try to be sporty in the corners.

portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1986-honda-civic-hatchback/6261723837.html

Save up and buy a clean CRX

The whole point is to keep it under $2k and I don't think I can find much for "clean" old Hondas in that range, unfortunately.

I want an AH

So far, I've found three cars...

1996 Geo Prizm LSi
autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=457994680

2003 Honda Accord EX Coupe
autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=462010830

2004 Honda Civic VP Coupe
autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=462035663

The Prizm will give me cheaper insurance.
The Accord will allow me to retain my CM pride.
The Civic is just a Civic... less fuel to put in.

Neither the Prizm or Civic have a tachometer; I can drive manual without one, but I like seeing the needle go up and down.

The CM7 will have everything I wanted in my CM5 other than the aux adapter.

I never bothered taking it out because I didn't want to pull the panels off to get to it.

The Prizm will allow me to own a Corolla and have money to afford it.

I got my 94 Corolla a month before I got fired from my screen printing job in 2013; it took me 4 months to find another job (because of laziness) and right before I could get paid, the engine blew from lack of oil.

So this could give me the chance to take care of one properly.

There's a used 1992 Honda Prelude Si Coupe for sale near my area for $2.5k.
156,972 miles on it.

cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-Honda-Prelude-Cleveland-d595_L27014#listing=176034222

without spending money for a service report or going out to the dealer, what should I expect (condition/possible repairs) for that price?

>2005 LX CM5
>$4750
That's so bullshit, I don't care what mileage it had, it's nicer than my 90k cm5 that they somehow thought was worth $5962 when it's beat to shit.

I was expecting it to be $3,500 based on the KBB value.

12-24apr
not good at all. though if you do all in one payment it gets more reasonable depending on the place.

transmission is still fine on my 01. though head might be leaking.

Going to change out all the belts, minus timing, on my civic ek sohc. It's going to be a fiddly shitshow ain't it?

Any tips for I delve in? Don't want to drop the engine, heard you should be fine with just undoing those two bolts on the side engine mount right. That was on honda-tech tho.

Got a long breaker bar and a gates cricket gauge for the occasion

...

I just found out my engine made 100hp from the factory for the na market. Subtract 20 for the 4AT and maybe 25 for the 30 years its been going.
I've been fucking around with roughly 55hp with a 4AT

It's really not that bad. Just undo that one mount and they all slide out easily. That mount is only for dampening so you don't need to hold anything up with a jack.

If your AC belt squeals after changing, just tighten the tensioner with the AC on and the car running until it stops being noisy.

Anyone with EF/EDs in here?

I have a crx, is that good enough?

Yes, post pics :^)

why do you want to see it, this is weird

Oh that's a relief. Good to hear, thanks. Sounds pretty straight forward.

No problem. Only annoying thing unlike most other cars is that it's recommended to take a wheel off to get better access to the mount.

I expected 3700 KBB for mine, so I was shocked when they said "okay mr user, we're sending a check for $5962 to get an equivalent vehicle"

Front end all misaligned and shit, and she still gets over a third of the purchase price.

Yeah was expecting to do that. And perhaps that underside flap on the frontbumper. According to the manual you need to measure the tension with a gauge from the underside of the belts.

so I got gt6 finally and paired with the race wheel it feels alright. why is the city so oversteer heavy?

car related though, should I attempted to change head gasket in my car or just take it to a shop? they are quoting like 200-300$ to change it and I'm not entirely sure the head gasket is what's leaking.

>$300 for a head gasket
That's pretty good for a shop, the shop near my house quoted $475 to reseal a leaky valve cover.

Really can't imagine it losing that much breakyhorses over the years.

There's this program on youtube that tests all sorts of cars on how close they come to their original hp rating after xx years.
Honda is usually on the mark, exactly- sometimes even over. Even the oldest high mileage shitboxes.
examples:

DC5 +1 bhp / 100k
EK4 -1 bhp 144k

d17a2 has an 80$ head gasket that's relatively easy to take out for it's year just parents are spooped I'll fuck it up doing it myself.
but again I have no idea if it's the head gasket leaking. there are many things it could be, like the stripped valve cover bolt, the block scraping my driveway, it ran with no dampeners for a year, and a wreck that bent the radiator and caused the power steering to leak somewhere but I have no idea where the power steering is leaking too.

slight modifications can help it get to stock projections of hp. that's how my car (probably if this cam and intake are giving it gains) is reaching slightly above what it's hp is listed at. but this is kinda obvious shit.

guys if I get a crz at the end of the year should I go ahead and change the imi cause most listings are of 2011 with less than 100k miles for less than 10k USD. anyone got a crz?

These were all stock tho.

I wanna know how much power the D16Y7 in my old Civic makes. It's gotta be the slowest D16 of all time. Something weird with that thing. Kek

d series seems to drop off hard. maybe the cam and crank had too much wear on yours.

You should hear it crank up. It sounds like death. Once it starts up though it sounds fine. Still much much slower than my D16A. The automatic only adds to the slowness.

I've got a 2013 CRZ 6mt. Great car for what it is... Really try to find one with the newer lithium ion battery. And avoid the CVT unless you like doing frequent fluid changes.

I'm gonna have to get used to cvt anyways and I've got some experience working with them. most are in the mile range for safe fluid change so I'm not too concerned about that. only listings I find are for 2011 and 2015 though. really most cvt ones I see are low enough cost and new enough even if I had to change cvt belt, timing belt and lithium battery I'd have an overall better deal of total cost for the year of the car than say a Civic or accord of the same year. I'm just concerned if what I've read is accurate about the warranty and longevity of the battery. will it shit out after 8 years?

Got a question for my ground control nihgas
the springs say they are coilover conversion, but will fit on oem shocks. Does this mean there is no additional hardware needed to mount and it will fit right on like oem springs? Im wondering in the case that i need to get a spring compressor

I've had mine since 2013... and have not even given a thought to the battery longevity. IIRC, there is a seperate 10 year warranty on the battery anyhow.
It's a fun car. I don't know what the hell i'd replace it with if anything happens to it. It's a perfect little 2 person transport module for my wife and I, since we both work at the same place and commute together.

I know when you order them, you gotta state what you'll be fitting them on. For my case it was my Koni shocks. No spring compressor was needed at all, as the springs just dangle there until the car sits on them. I assume it's the same for the OEM shocks version.

>17830695
awww shieeeet i guess i save 75 dollarydoos when i get em
thanks man im looking forward to ordering some

No problem bro. Mine are still running great. Don't see myself ever replacing them just because I like that I can replace the shocks as they get worn. Would probably be a bitch on a full coilover kit. The Eibach springs they use will probably last longer than the car, too.

ah fuck i just realised i need the top hat hardware from the old shocks lmao fucking monroe