/mg/ MIATA GENERAL

>Common
After replacing my crank, I tore off the downpipe 'insulation' and wrapped it. That fucking rattle on overrun between 2-4.5k is almost gone and not the tranny tunnel is only boiling, not melting on the hottest of stop-start days.

this nigga charging 2700 pound / 3500 dollars for this lol

I should skip it right?

Hinestly it looks like its just an old car. Half the shit in the list is bs, the other half is stuff you should be replacing anyways, like coolant, brake pads and rotors, brake fluid, drive belt, tranny fluid. Thats all normal. Clutch wear is also normal depending how many miles are on it.

Would you get a clean later NC or an NA like this then? First car btw.

NB. The NC is the worst MX-5 and you shouldn't be paying more than £1500 for your first car desu.

Nigga did you even test drive the car first?

Fucking shit, rolled my window down and then it got stuck with a pop sound, like a piece of plastic broke up.
It doesn't move up or down, could push it down by hand what was a mistake. I can hear motor is spinning, but it pushes against resistance and stops obviously.

Please tell me this is a cheap fix

What will happen if i start the car with a wrong CAS position?
I am betting it wont start.

pls respond

serious question: I'm a straight 20s male what % of people will assume im gay if i buy one of these and leave it stock?

Get a front lip and decent wheels and it won't look gay anymore .

Got any pictures of a front lip on an NA? Would like to see it.

Not him but here's a pic of one with an OEM style lip.

The stereotype isn't that you're gay for driving a miata anymore, now it's that you're an obnoxious college kid so you'll probably fit in

>wake me up inside

Thanks. I feel like it looks...fat, for some reason. Those are some sweet wheels though.

What are you saying is it better with wraps or not?

My feet are cooking now and everything is stock afaik. Should be comfy in the winter but still I would like to get rid of the heat.

I can live with all of the problems except notchy transmission.

It's hard to put it in first sometimes and 2nd sometimes clinks with really awful metallic sound. Oil has been changed recently with redline one.

Everything else can be and will be dealt with. Parts are not expensive and most of the fixes I can do myself.

Except for the tranny, which is bad because it really gets on my nerves and reduces enjoyment of the car. Luckily it is only annoying in city driving where you have a lot of stop and go traffic.

It'll be really retarded or really advanced but it should run. Just put it in the middle and adjust from there

Some people have a really bad time with redline gear oil in the transmissions of these cars. Motorcraft is superior.

Sidenote, you might just need to rebuild the shifter

>Sidenote, you might just need to rebuild the shifter
not that guy, but what oil should i put in the shifter?

link to shifter rebuil tutorial or something?

>summer is over
>handful of days where i can ride with the top down
>the hardtop looks amazing doe

POST SUMMER JAMS YOU FUCKS

youtube.com/watch?v=SPlQpGeTbIE

hello friends

Same gear oil that goes in the transmission. First suck out whatever is in there with a turkey baster or pump

Google it dude. Just gotta buy a kit somewhere and install the bits, it's pretty straightforward. I got my kit from here: 5xracing.com/c-529257-miata-shifter-rebuild-kits-and-bushings.html

>replace 1.6 calipers with 1.8
>new discs, pads, SS lines
>adjust ebrake
>bleed everything, pedal rock fucking hard
>brakes work fucking great
one week later
>ebrake does nothing
>pedal not squishy but no longer rock hard
>LOUD ASS FUCKING squeal with anything other than very light pressure
>squeal happens around turns without braking as well
>hear rotational wobbly noise if driving next to concrete structures
what the fug, this isn't my first time replacing brakes. Nothing like this happened before I replaced them. What the fuck is this

Had one drive by me, i'm amazed how tiny it is.

rotor warp/dtv?

is the rotor runout set properly?

Took this locking up at work

rate my idea: viper engine in a miata

v10/10 if you put it in an NB

Anyone know where i can buy a NA/NB hardtop that won't cost the same as buying another car?? Are they really $1000+ or do the cheap ones just sell fast?

Soooo basically a JDM AC Cobra ?

A Miata is basically half a Viper, so why not put half a Viper motor in it and use a VR5?

youtube.com/watch?v=ewZfxOoxcEg

They're just pricey.
They only came optional, as far as I know, otherwise you had to pay mega dollhairs for a new one as a part.

You could find a vendor that sells 'race/track' hardtops, but they're usually just a shell with plexi window. Barely cheaper, though.

Heya fellas,
I sure do love my miat, cute little machines

Uglier than the mk7 Celica.

Don't be talking shit about miatas in a miata thread, don't you have any pride?

I prefer my miata with a few simple mods

Techno-spirit miata is best miata

Are those celica lights? That looks way better than oem

2009 low mileage RX8 or a 1990 80k mile Miat?

Do you need 4 seats?

no, i have no friends

Do you have a problem with oil consumption, fuel usage, meme engine with meme seals? If yes, then pick Miata, if not, then RX8

Saw a blacked out one, They really look good

>drive Miata about 1hr to take a class I've been wanting to attend
>didn't hit any traffic at all so I get there about 45min early
>sit in the car listening to music and playing on my phone
>registration is about to begin, so I go to start the car to move it closer to the building
>battery is too dead to turn the engine over

The whole class I was just thinking about having to ask someone for a jump or trying to pop start it by myself. Luckily when I went out I turned the key just out of curiosity and it fired right up. Weird.

Your starter might be going out. Next time it does that, hit the starter with a wrench or hammer or something and see if it starts up

hey there,
would like to buy an NA or NB miata, which are the best factory engines for each?

not like you have much of a choice
all off them are good

Insulate the foot wells and transmission tunnel, night and day difference.

'99-00 NB has the most refined version of the NA's 1.8, '01-'05 add VVT.

The major difference is that the NB engine uses solid lifters and produces a bit more power.

Best soft top cleaner and protectant? for black?

Miatas are shit, faggots

bus masterrace crafts another award winning post

>buy a vito o-ring, they said
>it will last forever, they said
>mfw its impossible to install

meguiars

That seems like a shitheap. I thought you bongs had access to numerous good and inexpensive NAs?

Bought mine for $2500 with 120k, mechanic owned. Keep looking

I'm putting Raceland coilovers on my NA soon. I know, not the best, but better than nothing and I don't care too much about a slightly harder ride. Using NB tophats and plan on about a 1.5" drop, then buying wheels and tires. I'm likely going to run 205s-225s same on all corners and gonna try keeping tire height stock.

Big question- best wheel size? 17s look too big, I'm partial to 15-16s. I'm aware bigger wheels/tires increase unsprung weight but I'm going to appreciate the extra grip come year 2 when power mods start.

Tldr: Anybody have thoughts on wheel size? How big is too big?

Best power-to-weight for NA/NB is had on years 1996 and 1999. This isn't taking the MSM into account, however

>1.6 miata straight piped
Bad idea?

yes its going to sound like pure shit.

Proof?

There is nothing worse than a loud slow car.

nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/95-mazda-miata-convertible/6300404054.html
thoughts?

Holy shiiiiiiiiit, the clutch metal whine noise I was worrying about was actually just the clutch slave cylinder rod vibrating. Drowned it in grease and the sound is gone!

Any tips on how to secure a failed window so it will stay up for a while?

Since you're planning on doing power mods, you want to have at least 8 inches of wheel width I'd say. 15x9 can fit with minimal or no pulling depending on ride height, offset, and tires.
As for diameter, 15 or 16 is good. I'm partial to 15, as I think a little more sidewall looks good and is beneficial to handling. NBs look good on 16s though.
I wouldn't bother with 14", not a lot of tire choices and not easy to find very wide.

Well i got some work to do on that miata i guess.

Looks like it's in pretty good shape man

>Miata Club is 9k more than a BRZ/GT86 in Canada
Why the fuck?

lmao

Good to know, thanks for the input. I've found out 15x9s make for pretty freakin rare and expensive tire sizes. Got any preferred tire manufacturers? I thought I saw Nitto makes one along with Continental

Does anyone have those retrowave pics of the NA I've been looking so I can do a wall mural

So, as someone who's not had a ton of first hand experience with Miatas, but is interested in buying them, I have questions.

So, for someone who wants a fun and reliable daily and likes to keep things rather stock, why do NA Miatas seem to get such poor gas mileage? Everywhere I'm reading online from miata owner forums and such, with just about everything stock, have them reporting an average MPG somewhere in the high 20's.

Like, compared to a civic of the same era with the same engine engine displacement and weighs more, why would it be just as fast in the 0-60 and quarter mile and get nearly 40mpg?

Anyone know how hard it would be to detune the engine? I live in California and would love to do an LS swap, but the government banned all forms of fun a while ago. What I was thinking was writing the ecu to use 4 or even 2 cylinders when I go in to get it smogged, then immediately taking it back home and reflashing it. Any problems with that?

Any turbofags here?
Should have my turbo installed in the next month or so
Currently running an me221 with rx8 injectors and self tuned.clutch is installed, Just waiting for some time off work to install the rest

Yeah, that's not how California emissions works. Swaps are illegal in California unless the swapped engine is newer than the old one, and all emissions components are functioning. It needs OBD2 capability, evap system, egr if equipped, catalytic converter, everything. You might need to go through a different inspection process for a swapped car.
You're gonna get fucked on the underhood inspection if you just bring a Miata in with a chebby v8. They're gonna notice lol.
Sidenote, Cali (and all states really) also prohibits swapping in an engine that was never sold in the US market, such as the RB26, silvertop 4age, etc.

jelly as fuck

How is the Me221? I have heard people shit on the FM221, but that's jsut because it's not megasquirt and "doesn't have all the support MS does, real friends don't let friends buy Flyin Miata ECU", ect.

There ARE carb legal LS swaps.
flyinmiata.com/V8/california/
forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=304339

If my engine is knocking 'from the top end' does it mean it's basically kill? Started a couple weeks ago and was driving fine but now there's a Cel for a random misfire and the power is fucked.
>still driving it everyday

Yeah I know that, that's what I was talking about. That kit has all of the emissions components and everything to pass carb and be legal federally, but you don't have to get that kit. You can DIY a carb legal setup

>I thought you bongs had access to numerous good and inexpensive NAs?

We do but it doesn't stop people overpricing their heaps of shit. A quick look on autotrader shows some good examples for under 2k.

Bad. Mate of mine had one, sounded terrible and it actually hurt your ears as he went past at low speeds. Even if you think it might be fun to piss people off with the noise, someone will put a brick through your window for it.

I've never used MS so I can't really compare. I'm in the UK so Me221 is a no brainer really, the guys that make them are nice chaps and will help with any problems you have on their Facebook page/over the phone. Software seems decent although I've had my ve table completely wipe itself once, which isn't ideal.I always keep my laptop in my car now. just incase any dumb shit like that happens again.

short answer: drivetrain loss
when it comes to getting the power to the wheels
>rwdautomaticwhy does it get the fuel mileage of a compact truck?
now you know why

>what do you mean, no retest county?

why is this jam so fresh?
>asks for summer jams
have some winter jams instead
youtu.be/Fn06BFdDejo
t. volvbr/o/

The past few times I've driven my 1.6 NA, it's been shifting a little rough into second. There's a slight lumpy feeling and it takes a bit more force than usual to get it in? What should I do? My trans fluid has maybe 10k on it since the last time I changed it. I used Redline MTL and the fluid in the shifter turret was changed, too.

I'll just bump this with some nice OC. This is a WIP, sampling is ongoing. Apart from the wrong inclination of the window, any other suggestions/wishes before it goes to embroidery and prints?

So I live in pasco florida and my car was sitting up to its rims in standing water. is it going to be fine?

>2nd sometimes clinks with really awful metallic sound.

This is perfectly normal. The metallic clank when you shift 1-2 on the 5-speed is supposed to be an homage to old British roadster transmissions. If it is loud, the fluid simply needs changing.