Car Subs

keep it stock faggot. save your money or do something responsible with it.

true but i live in a small town in broke ass illinois so the cops here take just about any reason in this area to write you a ticket so im usually extra careful around them

If you're so concerned about the cops, then sound deaden and turn your sub level low on your HU. I know for a fact that running that amount of sub will be too much unless you're either A.) 16 years old, or B.) attention deprived.

I've got a single 12, and it's not heard whatsoever outside my car. Inside the car it is boomy as fuck, and rattles my entire car. The difference being that I spent a weekend sound deadening it, so I'm not pissing people off within a ten block radius of my vehicle. I recommend you do the same. Keep the massive, boomy sound for when/if you are at a party or something, and want some tunes played.

they will be in the trunk so is it I need to just sound deaden the trunk? or something to the whole car? I know jack shit about this stuff. All I know is I've always like to play my music loud and to feel it, so Im looking into subs. If I can do that without getting the cops on me for bumping my shit then thats great. not stupid levels but you know i dont want to pay 300-400 on subs in my trunk and then keep it down so i dont get pulled over but barely feel the power of the subs i paid for so sound deading is probably a good option for me

Stop being an irresponsible underage faggot. I guarantee there's 400 bucks of repairs that need to be done on your car.

It will most likely do the trick. Running that amount of sub and power will still be heard outside your car, but sound deadening the trunk should help with rattles and to keep the waves/pressure directed more to the cabin.

Just take some sound deadening and apply a sheet to the lid, and press it firmly down. Take your cover and spare tire out, and apply a good amount to the metal on the bottom of the trunk. If done right, you should see an increase in bass response, less road noise, and as a result a quieter cabin.

Not everyone drives a shitbox that's falling apart, user. Not everyone has to save up cash to afford parts for their car, user.

I can guarantee theres no repairs that need done on my car cause i take care of my car and do the repairs that need done when they need it. I'm sure you were a "irresponsible underage faggot" and now drive a unkept shitbox. Thanks for the warning and advice but i dont personally need it in terms of that

OP is clearly a kid. Kids don't drive nice cars unless daddy's money. In that case he should be saving money for school and/or to move out.

Nothing about OP gives the impression he is a kid. He writes like a late teens, early 20s man who wants to get into something he has no idea of, hence why he is asking first.

if you consider 18 a kid. I will admit i was very fortunate that my dad bought a new car and was able to give me his old car that was well kept but he doesn't hold me up i pay for insurance and repairs and all that myself. I have a job where its not a problem to save up money for a month or 2 and get this money but i wanted to make sure it was done right.

yes 18 is a kid. go ahead and hack up your wiring and kill your resale value.

>Selling your car
>Ever
Not everybody drives a shit car that breaks down. If it is his car, and he is making payments on the insurance, then why the fuck do you care what he does? Adding amps and subs are easily removed from the vehicle IF he does decide to sell the car later on down the road, and there will be absolutely no evidence that the car was ever amped up to begin with.

Quit being such a bitter, angry manchild over nothing.

>$50-70 for wire

Nigger you're retarded, I got 25 feet of 4 gauge OFC wire throgh Knukonceptz for something like $1.45 a foot, and I only got 25 feet due to doing more than one install.

Get one sub and a stolen amp off craigslist.

It's a 2007 pontiac that already has some wires going into the trunk from a obvious setup from before my dad or me owned it. so "hacking" up the wires and killing resale seems a little late. We didnt even know about it til I had my mechanic friend look at it to see how wiring would work for it and found it was already wired up previously for something.

I've got 2 sealed shallow 10's behind a seat getting almost 300rms each, I rattle the windows of vehicles next to me, never turned it down near police and I've never been fucked with once.

15 feet of copper wire, 15 feet of quality RCAs, 15 feet of 12 volt wire, and 3 feet of copper ground wire is 50-70 dollars, bucko. Just because you like buying shit tier wire, doesn't mean everybody else does.

Wish cops were that nice around here 2 of my friends with subs have been pulled over for their subs at a slightly above average volume (for what it sounds outside the car atleast) suppose its just a broke af state and they have a big ticket quota or this area is just full of shit cops. I once got pulled over for changing the volume on my radio while never taking my eyes off the road and got pulled over. I would have gotten a ticket for "being on my phone behind the wheel" if i didnt luckily leave my phone home that trip.

>50-70 for quality gauge wire

Wire, you weren't including RCA cables in that statement. OFC copper wire isn't shit tier either, bucko.

>15ft power

With what OP's planning he would only need 8ga, that's $0.64 a foot for OFC power wire, knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/kolossus-fleks-kable/sp/kolossus-fleks-kable-8-gauge-red-powerground-wire/

>15ft of RCA's
This depends if he's planning to trunk mount the amp or just stuff it under a seat which is generally easier as well, but, 6 meter cables for $14.49 knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/rca-cables/karma-ss-rca-kables/sp/karma-ss-2-channel-6-meter-rca-cable/

>15ft of 12 volt
So, some fucking 18ga power wire like any amp, the stuff that's $0.07 a foot, and is even OFC, knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/kolossus-fleks-kable/sp/kolossus-kable-18-gauge-blue-primary-remote-wire/

>3ft of ground wire
Also the same $0.64 as power wire, OFC as well

Toss in a fuse block and the couple feet of 12-14ga wire he'd need for the subs, still cheaper than your $50-70 number you pulled out of your ass moron, let's not forget OP has Kicker shit and is wanting to buy a cheap low end amp, he doesn't even need to be concerned with OFC wire, high gauges, or even quality goddamn RCA's when it's going to be a mediocre setup at best.

And, incase you can't do math, that's $27 assuming OP gets 18ft of 8ga wire for power/ground, 20ft of 18ga remote wire, the higher end RCA's that'd be a moot point when he can spend half that for RCA's just fine, tack on another $15 for fuse block, fuse holder, crimp terminals, bushing to run the power wire through his firewall, and some solder if he wants to get proper up in here, now get the fuck out if you're not going to use your head.

So about 500 for all the wiring and sound deading and the setup itself just about? or would it be safe to save more considering it sounds like wire pricing is ify.

See

Wire is not expensive.

amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WGSYI5W/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505278612&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=skar amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=410EfceSusL&ref=plSrch

Whatever you do stay the fuck away from planet audio, boss, and pyle!

Yeah I've heard nothing but the word "underpowered" when it comes to boss

OP Here btw i was wondering does it matter what type of radio itself I have. Is it fine to keep the stock radio? The only thing i need for my radio is bluetooth and there are adapters for that

Stock deck is fine but you'll need to use a LOC to get the sub frequencies to feed the amp, otherwise you'll need a new head unit with preouts on it for a sub.

another thing is ive heard of people getting separate batteries for their subs and everything. im sure its more a depends on the car thing but most the time for a simple setup im going for its nothing huge and crazy ill be fine with stock alternator and battery right? or will i risk blowing something?

>wanting to weigh down your car

Do you even know what google is dude? You're talking about running 2 shitty ass kicker's you're going to underpower because you want to cheap out on things, you don't need a seperate battery or even beefier alternators generally until you're pushing 1000-1500rms. Note, I said rms, not peak watts.

>implying i care about speed
if i gave a shit about how fast my car is overall i wouldn't have a 2007 pontiac g5

Yes and google was so helpful in answering my specific questions that I am asking here

Do I need to change any internal wiring to change speakers on my 1980's jap car

you fucking mong, get (((1))) decent 12 and you will get the same(much better) sound quality and decibel output for much cheaper all around.
The sub, box, and amp will be cheaper this way, and it will be way easier to make a not shit system.

Only if you increase power to the speakers
(or if the speakers cut out sometimes)

ok well they buzz when the music goes up and the engine is louder, i just want to hear the music a little bit and they are OEM. Would newer speakers that are plugged right in fix this issue or would i have to gut the thing? Same amount of power to speakers, just changing them out.

Yeah in that case you just have to get a solid replacement.
You have to get ones that match the
>size (unless ur not noob and are changing it on purpose)
and
>impedance
of the oem ones.
also when looking at different wattages remember higher wattage is not better. You are supposed to match it to what kind of power it will be getting from the oem amplifier, this is usually really low compared to aftermarket systems.

>they buzz when the music goes up and the engine is louder
also check all of your chassis grounds if you are getting interference through your speakers.

would the ground be right next to the speakers? I'm complete garbage when it comes to electrical stuff.

I just meant the different ground wires throughout the engine bay. Not sure if the buzzing you are talking about is what i'm thinking of though.

I guess "buzzing" is a poor choice. The quality of sound is fine at lower volumes, the higher it goes, the more it gets distorted.

okay, yeah in that case they are probably old and blown. That sort of thing is usually what people describe when the voice coils are frozen and shitted up.
Replacing them will work gud. Speaker tech has come a long way too so you'll probably be pretty surprised how good the new ones sound.
just follow this () and perhaps ask Veeky Forums if you have any questions, I'll help if I'm on then

appreciate your help and patience, thanks user.

no problem user, glad I could help.

intl.jlaudio.com/mx500-1-car-audio-mx-amplifiers-98407
something cheep second hand

JL audio seems like a better type

>that pic

bump b4 op fucks up

???
windows paint master race

sonicelectronix.com/item_71776_NVX-MVPA1.html
When I got one of these I was hella surprised by it's output, its only rated at 300w rms but swear to god it's close to my old alpine 500w rms monoblock. And it's literally a quarter the size.

20 feet of copper wire is 25 dollars.
15 feet of quality RCA cables are 20 dollars.
12 volt and a 3 foot ground is ten dollars.

Wow, look at that, already over 50 dollars. Like I said, just because you like using shit tier wire you got ripped off from by your local dealer, doesn't mean everybody else does. Enjoy your shit tier conductivity and heat issues, dipshit.

Maybe you should take a remedial addition class, retard.

>they will be in the trunk so is it I need to just sound deaden the trunk?
I've seen too many cars with trunks lids visibly shaking as the cars drove by. Occasionally, there would be a car whose trunk lid shook so much it actually had a rattling sound which was I thought was embarassing to watch.

.

>2 of my friends with subs have been pulled over for their subs at a slightly above average volume
Well, you have two typical sources of sound pollution laws to follow. Some states like mine also have sound pollution laws from the Dept of Ecology. The state laws typically are for noise from the car itself and measured at some distance such as 50 feet or 75 feet. Your city is most likely the source of the most restrictive audio system noise pollution ordinances unless you live in an HOA. Go to your city website and look up the noise pollution ordinances so that you don't trigger complaints.

Copied verbatim from my city's website:
"Noise is unlawful if:
Sound from motor vehicle sound system clearly heard at a distance of 75 feet from where it is originating.
75 feet is comparable to the length of a standard swimming pool."
The fine is $250. A 2nd fine within 24 hours may be charged as a criminal offense and can be up to $500 fine and 180 days in jail max. Wow, that is hefty penalty for scofflaws.

>another thing is ive heard of people getting separate batteries for their subs and everything
When a big bass note occurs, the amplifier will draw a huge current surge in order to power the speakers. That causes a voltage sag due to the length of wires from the battery and alternator power source.

But if you're not running a lot of amplifiers at constant high volume, then getting a capacitor will be enough to supply surge current. A capacitor may also be necessary to reduce your headlights flickering with each bass note.

>I'm gonna run 2 Kicker 10C104's
You're one of those thumping rap fans that likes to let other people hear the thumping in their cars too?

I drive on highway and country roads a lot in my area so I'm not to concerned with the little driving that will happen in town for me it will just be turned down more in town

Congratulations on not even clicking any of the links you developmentally delayed little shit. Not sure if you understand what OFC wire is, but that's oxygen free, actual copper wire usually tin coated to prevent corosion, whereas the only form of cheap shit, is non-awg conforming shit (almost everything short of high end only) and also CCA, copper clad aluminum.

You specified no gauge, 100ft of 18ga is cheaper than 10 feet of 1/0, you provided no brands or links or recommendations for OP, just pulling numbers out of your sore ass.

Call it shit all you want without even looking, but I'm pulling 900rms through Knukonceptz 4ga without one goddamn problem and I work the fuck out of the amp. But again, nice job pulling shit out of thin air, providing no examples, or even proof you've wired up a fucking car before.

youtu.be/h0eyi0XS8DI

No. If the big 3 has been done with the amplifier install, and isn't something extremely high wattage, then there won't be noticeable voltage change unless you're twelve and blasting dubstep and have a dinky alternator.

>15 feet of quality RCA cables are 20 dollars.
Analog RCA isn't needed if the signal is sent digitally.

When head units and amplifiers are compatible such as same brand or if the amp is licensed for use with different brands, they will use the same digital LAN. Thus one unified remote control can send commands to all the units. The audio signal is also sent digitally without distortion or signal conversion changes.

ssl amps are decent for budget stuff
amazon has plenty of wire for stupid cheap and it's good quality stuff. 50ft of 0 gauge for 25 with an rca cable, some crimp on terminals (thery're not the greatest) some cheap wire that's fine for the remote to amp