All three of my VSC, Trac off and Check Engine lights turn on when I drive.
I thought it could have been because my front tires were fried, or my gas cap.
But I have tried everything I could. So I took it to a local dealer of generous Vietnamese people who used their diagnostic tool for free to check what could be wrong.
How expensive can resolving this code be?
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That's a 02 heater circuit sensor code you mongle. Has nothing to do with anything besides a check engine light.
What are the other codes?
Maybe your O2 sensor went bad? I don't know why that would turn your dashboard into jackpot lights but who knows with cars for babby's these days.
No other codes came up that I was made aware of.
My car is a 2002 Toyota Sienna XLE I bought two years ago. Not sure if that is important to anything else.
How much would it cost to fix an O2 sensor if you don't mind me asking?
Under $100 if you do it yourself, probably under $50.
On the bank one upstream oxygen sensor, there will be two wires which are the same color. Unplug the sensor, set your volt meter to OHM, and test between those pins. When you get XXX Mega Ohm, or no continuity, you confirm a bad oxygen sensor heater.
More often than not, with heater circuit codes, you just need an 02 sensor. Heater circuit fault detection methods are pretty cut and dry.
Also, I would recommend a Denso brand sensor.
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It's actually an AFR sensor, thus the price increase.
Oh, and VSC and trac light usually come on in toyotas with Check Engine lights.
Without all of the engine sensors feeding data to the PCM, it is nearly impossible to make proper stability and traction decisions. So, CEL= lotsa lights.
I guess I should have made 1 long post.
Yeah gee whiz if it's running lean or rich we'll never know how to torque vector
Fucking electronics
Although you're sarcastic, that's exactly right.
PCM will want to pull timing, or fuel, or even limit rpm via spark pulse. You can very easily melt a cat, or a piston for that matter, with drastic fuel trims under load.
Everything to protect the motor. And realistically, the car detected a fault, set a trouble code identifying which part and a basic description of what parameters were out of spec.
I'd say the electronics did pretty well.
Yeah sure you can bust a cat running rich, but if that's the absolute key to figuring out how to run the traction control or ABS then that's over the line and going in to being counterproductive.
Thank you, user.
I will buy one.
Should I still drive it around to work without suffering any reprucussions?
I haven't been abpe to call off the last few days so I have been neglecting this since Wednesday.
Not the key, but important to know.
Moreso, the issue is with things like crank/cam sensors, timing control, missfire count, etc. But toyota decided that nearly any CEL code results in disabling of the TCS and VSC.
It is a nice system for getting the attention of plebs (see OP).
see my post
>turn your dashboard into jackpot lights but who knows with cars for babby's these days
It's not a good trend.
>buy o2 sensor socket and new oem sensor (never buy aftermarket)
>unplug old sensor
>remove old sensor
>clean up the threads with a wire brush
>apply a small amount of antiseize on the threads
>screw in new sensor, torque to 14 ft-lbs
>plug in new sensor, see if code goes away
No problem driving it. Here's the long and short of your issue.
To properly detect the mixture of air and fuel in the exhaust, the sensor must be extremely hot. At start up and in low load situations, a heater is used in the sensor to bring it up to functional temperature. With the test I posted above you can confirm what is almost certain, a failure of the heater in the bank one, sensor one, sensor. Most people would call it bank one, upstream; meaning before the catalytic converter.
With this fault code, the computer will likely ignore readings from the sensor, running in open loop, without any feedback. It is 100% fine to drive, mpg may drop a hair, but not significantly.
The code will need manually reset with a scanner, or disconnecting the battery for 30 min or so. It will not go out on its own, without X number of completed cycles. Frankly, I'm not sure if P1XXX codes even do that, I think it's only generic P0XXX codes which can self clear.
Confirm that sensor I quoted is correct, I just did a google search for 2002 Sienna bank one oxygen sensor. 3.3L v6 I would guess?
Trend? It's a 15yo toyota. You should see what Nissan is doing these days. They made the brake fluid reservoir too small, so when the pads wear down (think 4/b rear, 6/b front), the red brake light can come on.
Who torques 02 sensors?
Timing tensioner, sure, but an 02?
I've been driving a 20yo car until recently. I thought it was slightly questionable that it started cutting the brakes with ABS just because one of the tone rings was rusting out. Although I think it was overall a net good that it had ABS.
Now it's going to be like your accessory belt just snapped off because a sensor went out of range? And you lived your life relying on stability to save your life and now it's off and you don't have realistic ability to pilot it on your own? This is going to be a real mess before too long.
I can agree to an extent. Customers bring in all sorts of new stuff with pointless gadgets.
My newest car is a 99 civic. It does 100% fine, fuel injection, power windows, nice cool AC. Could I go out an buy a new car, sure. But I'm not dropping 5-10k AND getting a car payment unless I really like the car. And most new stuff does nothing for me.
New taco is overpriced. Unwilling to get rid of very modified NA miata to but new miata. New civic is meh. I do like the Versa, the last of the true shit-boxes. Easy to work on (mostly) and dependable (mostly).
>Timing tensioner, sure, but an 02?
>not doing everything up with an impact gun
Yes. You are correct.