Cheapest conventional oil to buy under $20? I've been using supertech oil for a 2 to 3 changes and good so far...

cheapest conventional oil to buy under $20? I've been using supertech oil for a 2 to 3 changes and good so far, and cause its like $11 for 5 qts. Is that brand fine or should I go for something higher quality to protect my engines life? again under $20 if possible

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its good oil its either made by warren or kendall depending on where you live its good for the money. been using it for while.

As long as you change your oil at proper intervals, you can pretty much use whatever oil you can afford. Your engine should be fine.

As long as you change it every 3k it doesn't matter worth a shit.

Standards organizations are our bffls inherently

Only so many places make oil. Supertech is fine. The differences between brands is so minor you're better off replacing the cheap supertech 1000 miles earlier over running something with a "better brand".

>The differences between brands is so minor
The premium brands have their own proprietary additive packages. There is an oil database that periodically updates the listings with tests since oil formulations change all the time.

OIL DATABASE:
540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Dumb question but since I don't drive a lot, do I have to change the engine oil every 3 months? 3k miles take me about 4 months. I'm using full synthetic oil though.

Or should I just check manually and if its clean, I leave it alone.

How can white boi even compete?

>3k miles take me about 4 months
Highway miles are much more easygoing on the engine oil than city miles.

The 3000 mile number comes from the old days. It's a number from the previous century with older engines using lead fuel which polluted the oil with lead and other contaminants. That was also before the time of affordable synthetic oil for the normal consumer. Oil now has the "SN" standardization but back then, oil only was SE or whatever it was at that time due to the additive and refining technology. Engine oil has much improved since the days when the 3000 mile number was created as a rule of thumb.

I remember my grandfather changing oil back then. At 3000 to 3500 miles, it was pitch black from that Buick. Ahh, those were the days. I could slide underneath the car without it being jacked up. My grandpa simply put down two courses of those red bricks, then short boards for the car to drive up on top of those bricks. Voila, the car was high enough to get under to change the oil.

At 4000 miles, my oil is no where near black. It is dark due to suspended particles and the oil becoming oxidized so it is also darker itself. But on the paper towel, it still has a good hint of amber to it even if it is dark amber now with even darker blackish pigment (suspended particles). On a paper, the particles are too small to see so one might think the oil is dark. But as capillary action causes the dark amber synthetic oil to wick up the paper, the suspended dark pigments are left behind.

That's the method I use to look at the color of the oil. It's what was taught in my high school chemistry class after all.

I'm not too concerned with the differences in lubrication once the oil is properly warm and there is good oil pressure - I am worried about the lubrication efficiency when the engine is cold and the pressure is low

Most of the independent tests I've seen and read show that the Mobil1 0w40 is the best oil in terms of cold viscosity, and with the winters temperatures we have here its the one I pick