Classic Car General

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>Want to dump my '01 Dakota for a daily that isn't bland as fug
>See an '85 Firebird Trans Am for a good price
>But it's an automatic
Should I immediately disregard? It seems like most I find for sale are automatics.

Automatic is fine t b h

>That barely-visible "S" logo

holyofuck, bud, is that your steering box?

>automatic
>from 1985

automatics only recently became sort of acceptable and equally advanced manuals (that aren't even factory options) are still better

I'm trying to help my gf buy a car. We may not be together much longer but we've dated for 4 years so we'll still be close. Point is I might not be around to fix it for her if something goes out.

So far we have two candidates
>2001 CRV $3500
>1998 Volvo S90 $3000

Anything I should look out for? Both are around 120k miles. She doesn't really know anything at all about cars so I'd like to avoid even simple fixes like common vacuum leaks etc. Her budget is roughly 4k, about a month's paycheck for her. Not really classic related but with such a small budget she's not going to be getting something new

The Volvo in question is real nice and my kind of car, but she prefers the CRV. There's an '03 CRV for sale locally as well but she prefers the look of the '01, and so do I. Just leaves me curious if there's any fixes they may have made in those 2 years

>buy this sight unseen
>away working at the time
>back for an afternoon
>check it out
>seems good

ajsdjsal

i just want to work on it. remove all the shitty stickers. service the pop up fog lights... speaking of, anyone have any experience with this? the right one works more often than not, the left, worked once (out of say 5 times)

i assume pulling them apart will be fairly easy? a quick clean and wd40/crc and you think they'll be good to go?

>swap in my period kenwood krc from my 87 n/a into this
>put the factory roof racks on

i've heard they had a factory roof box for these, but never seen any pictures or anything. also want to get a tow bar for it.

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I would think the CRV would be a better option. Simpler and cheaper to fix/maintain. I don't know much about volvos but from what I've seen/heard they seem to be a little more complex than Honda.

Ackshually that occured in the 60's with the introduction of the Turbo hydramatics, Torqueflites, and FMX.

>two piece rear mains and paper gaskets edition

Took a ride in the Ford. Forgot I took the insurance off of the truck because it's been sitting. Oops.

fuck it, if you crash just step on the gas an carve up whatever econobox you hit.

Automatic is fine if you just want to cruise, or turn it into a drag car or something.

nice "meme"

>forgets trip

4u

had to buy a new fone
hold me...

Is it normal for a bit of oil to pool on top of heads like this? It's a sbc

Yep, you should see where it mounts to
Dont tell anyone, but the frame has lost about the same percent of metal as that bolt

somewhat

>tfw just a special cable and two little bits need to mount it were $200 after shipping and exchange rate

D A D S | C A R

She's home, boys.

Anyone familiar with the 67-71 AMC I6 bellhousings? I want to know what I can shove back in here for cheap.

Came with a 2wd BW T-35-based M-43 with supposedly a bad torque converter.

I've heard a TH400 with a special factory adapter plate was also available.

Not interested in spending $$$ on a manual swap, it's a backwoods beater with no title.

Is...is that just a bunch of sheet metal screws, from someone doing a shitty job of putting in new floor metal?

What fuel pressure regulator do you guys recommend?
This shitty holley regulator lasted only a month.

Whats with everybody using regulators? I've never used one on my ford trucks. Are you guys running electric pumps or something?

Cheapo fuel pumps seem to over pressure.
Both of the shitty Spectra Premium pumps I've had in my Thunderbird, pegged my fuel pressure gauge at 9 psi when I only needed 5

my truCk

>f*rd

I've got the same issue. Want to try putting on a cheapo one but don't know how well it'll work out

Does it cause any issues? My Bronco came with an extra new fuel pump and I swapped it in when I was in a pinch. Not sure what brand it was but it didn't look high quality. Haven't checked fuel pressure but I haven't had any issues.

Also, why do carburetors only need 5 psi to run? Fuel injected cars need 50 psi. Is it because carburetors just kind of dribble it in and the air sucks it the rest of the way, whereas fuel injectors have to do all the work?

sort of

If you have too much pressure on a carbed system, fuel could overcome the float needle seat and cause flooding. I'm not aware of any other side effects

gunking up your shit and requiring a clean/rebuild more often.

A carburetor is basically a fluidic computer.

It requires the amount of fuel to be absolutely correct in the float bowl.

Now, the amount of fuel in there is set by a float, of course. A float and a tiny little rubber tipped needle valve. The float and needle valve can only hold back about 5-6 psi.

Another thing is, running an EFI pump and a regulator near the carb will pretty much take care of any vaporlock issues. Higher pressure = more resistant to boiling, just like in your cooling system.

Specifically i know Webers simply will not function with over 5 psi, in some cases they won't work with even 4 psi.

It won't keep you from having fun with it, as much as some autists on here would like you to believe. And the 700R4 can be built pretty decently. Looks like a clean car too, maybe worth manual swapping in the future if you think a manual would suit the car nicely. If not, and you have an itching for a manual in the future anyways, just get a different car with a manual. More cars more better.

tl;dr if it's a nice car, don't let the auto keep you from it

I sure hope the magical rust- healing fairies come and fix my car while i sleep

Well my dudes after months of talk I finally decided to stop being a lazy piece of shit and get an engine. I'm checking out a 302 on Wednesday from a 98 explorer. The thing had roughly 130k miles before the car was T boned, and I'm getting the whole engine plus the cooling system for 400 dollars, but the seller gets to keep the efi intakes as I can't be fucked to try and sell them and I'm getting a few extra bits.

Anything I should look for in particular when checking out a motor?

Make sure the 5.slow didn't split in half.

Well meme'd friendo. You totally rused me.

GOT EEM

You get your duster working yet :^)

no but at 130k it's probably in it's senior life.

Well it has been running for at least half a year now. Now that that's done it needs major cosmetic work.

Nice.

And I'll be doing a top end refresh, as well as new gaskets. Worst case scenario, the engine let's go after a few years and I just use the gt40ps for a 351w build

Since i'm sure it has Cadillac converters i can't tell you to stick your hand in front of one of the exhausts to see if it's shitting oil but you could cut one of them open to see if it has been running like shit maybe. I know that despite the reputation they're supposed to be pretty reliable.

I haven't done any cruising lately. I didn't even see if anyone replied to my post in the last thread. God damn work.

>Anything I should look for in particular when checking out a motor?
On the front of the block it should say "5.3/4.8"

>Cadillac converters
Stop.

And the compression is good, as well as this being a hydraulic roller cam motor. These mills regularly turn over 300k stock, but I'm going to be doing a decent refresh anyway. I'm not really worried about bearings, it's not like someone is putting that much stain on the bottom end of a stock explorer

>Cross manufacturer engine swap
Haram. Only one I'd consider would be a gen 2 hemi and even then I'd rather save the hassle and just build a 460

fair enough but you need to be the guy to slay that motor.

>not a Vortec 4200

What do you mean?

whenever you're going to upgrade to a bigger engine just run the shit out of that 302 for giggles.

>god tier swap, new 350 SBC
>crazy yuge aftermarket
>takes boost like a fucking champ if you ever decide to go that route
>bullet mufflers, sounds like RK muscle truck

>muh cross manufacturer swap
you mean big dick points?

Oh yeah that's the plan. That being said with the mods I'm looking at, it's only going to be about 320hp max. These blocks and internals are good up to about 500 then it's split city.

If you really feel that passionate about it, you can buy a 65 f250 and do that swap yourself. I do not.

That front end looks like absolute dog shit.

I'm just yanking your chain lad
>65 f250
I'd like to do it in a Fairmont, if only I could fucking find one

Keep looking. They pop up every once in a while, or an 80s ltd. Personally, I would want to turbo ls swap a box impala ss or Caprice.

You may not like it but this is what peak performance looks like.

This one is up in my area but he wants 3500 for it, looks pretty solid too.

The car looks fine, the fitment of the front end looks like shit in the first picture. Likely due to all the aftermarket crap under the hood. Fine for a racer, but I'll take stock any day.

Buy this

denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/1982-fairmont-futura/6288489226.html

Or this oh fuck

denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/very-clean-1986-chevrolet/6280354300.html

Not a fan of the Caprice. The Futura looks pretty good but I'm looking for a 4 door or a wagon

>whole engine plus the cooling system

fucking watercooledfags I swear, why doesn't the engine include cooling to begin with

>his engine is made of combustable materials

how fucked does your engine have to be to catch fire?

>his engine isn't called the Rocket

Formula Vee racers used to burn Volkswagen blocks in the infield at Road Atlanta. I have no idea how they started them but they burned

With starter fluid ofc

fug off

sure the block will burn but not on it's own, one culprit on today's VWs is cheap plastic fuel filters between the pump and carb in the engine bay melting and dumping fuel over everything

IMPOSTER!!!

Water is a more efficient medium for transporting heat away from the engine always.

You know your cooling "system" is fucked if you need an oil cooler to prevent overheating or you have to sit at a light on the throttle to spin a fan fast enough to stop heak soak.

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Some 80s cars are classics now tbqhbb

someone put carpet in it and did that, yes

This is not new information. Some 90s cars are classics already

oh but it is

Need some reassurance Veeky Forums. Am i being unreasonable here? Cant find many examples of a falcon ranchero, but is my price tag unreasonable? Dropped from 6k to 4500 for hopefully a quick sell.

mobile.craigslist.org/cto/d/1964-ford-ranchero/6306409553.html

The minor rust consist of small bubbling on the bottom of doors and fenders, honestly i think it more has to do with the maacko paint job.

Had a few guys interested, but we all know how cl goes... just annoying.

Those seats trigger me. But yeah seems reasonable. I am not sure on price, not sure if good or bad but you wrote the ad well. How bad is the carb?

You're going to have a hard time with it because it screams "Mexican" with that paint and those seats. The I6/3 speed is also going to be a hindrance.

That said, the price is very fair for what it is; however, the market sucks for sellers now.

Looks like it was in the bottom of the ocean for a few hundred years.

Did you finally find a ranchero and are already selling it? Jesus dude.

In all seriousness that whole car triggers me. Paint job and seat color combo is not doing you any favors for a quick sell. Not to bash it, just my honest opinion.