Oil Changes

never have. its a scam

I always change between 4750-5000 miles

Every 5k

Every 6,500 KM.

Full synthetic, no more than 8,000 miles.

Just got my first car and done full service.
I plan to replace it either once I gonna get another service notification (after 15k km), or every 12 months.

haven't changed it for 20k miles

every 2 years

badass

Every 7000km, which is about every 6-8 weeks for me.

>tfw courier driver

What do you deliver?

>car burns a liter of oil every 2500 miles
>only has 3.5 liter capacity
>top it off every few weeks and change the filter and oil every 10 thousand

been going like this for 50 thousand miles, car had 140,000 when i bought it

Weed

I can't get around the fucking spam filter

How bad is it if the previous owner didn't change the oil often enough?
I still see some build up when I open the oil cap on the engine.
As an autist I feel an urge to open it and clean it.

use thicker oil, maybe it will seal it a bit

Every 3,000 miles, full synth.

>tfw 17 year old FERD with over 210,000 miles

I deliver lost luggage from my city's airport. Once it eventually makes its way to the airport, I pick it up and take it to wherever the customer is. I do a lot of out of town driving, I'm not just stuck to the limits of my city. It's a bretty ghud gig, I love it.

>every 10k miles
>that is every 3 months
the joys being a taxi driver

30000 km or about 18000 miles.

i do it every 6-8k depending on how lazy I am

never. i always top it off and thats it.

>Every 3,000 miles, full synth.
>tfw 17 year old FERD with over 210,000 miles

Just use shitbox 10-30 or 10-40 at that rate save sum buxz
no need for synthetic on your car mate

Every 10000 km with Motorcraft synth blend.

Did your car forget how to use gasoline?

same, but i've got an amazingly reliable SUBARU motor.

I imagine it's just used fryer oil cut with sewer sludge to add viscosity

>old shitbox burns synthetic high mileage stuff I put in it, lost a quart over 3000 miles
>didn't burn the conventional I had in it when I got it
Uh guys...

Whenever the oil level light comes on because of all the leaks lol, been doing it like that for 50k miles, the old nissan just hit 200k.

Every 3k if I'm running conventional
Every 5k if I'm running full synthetic

But honestly I still always end up changing it 500+ miles before it's due. I'm sure some spergs will tell me I'm wasting money but I drive less than 10k miles a year so I'm only changing it like twice a year, not like I'm spending huge bucks here. Better safe than sorry, I do drive my cars hard and it's all city driving, no highway.

Should've listened to Scotty Kilmer, stick with what you've been using. It will probably be fine if you switch back next oil change.

No longer than 5,000 miles, mobil 1 full synthetic. ATF drain/refill every 6 months to a year. Differential, power steering, brake fluid, all annually. Coolant every two years.

>Should've listened to Scotty Kilmer,
Screaming alcoholics usually are right. Why did I ever doubt you, Scotty. But really though he's probably right and I'll be doing an oil and spark plug change when I hit 100 grand in about 200 miles. I'll go back to conventional, hell the manual only says to use synthetic if tenperatures get very cold (which they do by me, about -20 at the coldest, but fuck it).

What's a good conventional brand and a good uncased filter brand? Not the best, just good. Like "won't break your car or your wallet" good.

The synthetic stuff is usually a little bit thinner than a similar weight conventional. It also had a tendency to clean out deposits and sludge left by conventional oils which may have been blocking any possible leaks. If it starts burning conventional then you might want to move up a weight.

Ah I see. Well it doesn't spit blue smoke and I don't see drips on the driveway overnight so only God knows what is happening. Maybe I have little oil elves siphoning my oil away when I'm not looking. I didn't even realize I was losing oil until my engine started making a metal on metal noise when starting up. I didn't think anything of it for [spoiler]two months[/spoiler] until I checked the oil. The dipstick was clean. I filled up a whole quart and a quarter of a quart to get it back to the halfway mark.

If I were you I'd change the spark plugs before 100k. I changed mine recently at 96 and they were stuck in like a motherfucker had to let them sit with lube overnight and then use a breaker bar.

exactly what my owner's manual says

10k miles on full synthetic.

Gotta be careful with that, synthetics don't always burn blue and sometimes depending on the oil and a endless wave of specifics about your car you might not see it burn at all even though it is actually burning. They are significantly more resistant to burning than conventionals though which can throw you off. Best option would be to get an emissions test and see what kind of bullshit is coming out of the exhaust but I doubt you really care that much.

Shit. It's always that little extra step with cars. I had to use a disassembled walking cane as a breaker bar for my oil drain plug, that fucker was on there tighter than a virgin's cunt.

5k miles on Castrol edge and a Wix XP filter, as Blackstone Labs said I could.

Woah I didn't know that. Yea to be honest man it's a 14 year old Chevy beater with close to 100k miles. I'm driving it until the subframe rots out and doing the bare minimum to keep it alive until that happens. I don't know why I even did synthetic in the first place. Oh well. Lesson learned. Thanks for the info.

5k, full synthetic. Factory recommends 10k but I prefer more frequent because I don't know how much I trust my IMS upgrade. Thanks Porsche.

Same here. I've got a 3800 so I have to make sure the intake isn't letting coolant into the oil.

every 4k, synthetic.

turbo car. maker suggest every 5k tho.

Yup, someone on here said working on cars always ends up with something not going right but you needing to find a workaround and persevere to get it done anyway. When I first tried twisting the plugs loose they were stuck in so tight I was afraid of fucking up my cylinder head. I fucking sprinted on foot to autozone just before they closed so I could get some penetrating oil to leave in there overnight.

That problem with the oil drain plug isn't uncommon though, I think if it gets twisted on too tight it conforms to the crush washer too well and doesn't want to budge.

I still haven't gotten mine tested but plan on it.

Automotive technician here, it's usually so tight because people just use the impact gun and hammer it on with the same force you'd use for a truck tire lug nut. You're not supposed to do that because the thin pan tends to warp easily but they do because they're lazy.

I'll keep an eye out for that problem, thanks dude. I can just imagine the scene in autozone.

>crush washer
I hope I wasn't supposed to get one of those. No it couldn't have one. The plug had a rubber bump I'm sure of it.

Do people really do that that often?
I've been changing oil for a year and only seen one plug we couldn't get out.
A pan drop was like 5 hrs. of labor too, felt bad for the guy. Pretty sure he's the one that did it though.

I change it yearly.

Are you my sister?
I change it every November, I don't put high milage on the truck, less than 5k a year usually. Check and top off once or twice a year and its fine

Get some Techron from Walmart, then change engine oil some time after.

All the time. Convenient thing about oil pans is that the left over oil in the threads tends to lubricate them so they don't corrode or bind. Then there's the rare case where oil DOESN'T get on the threads, then you're fucked. Combine that with cheapskates that replace the worn plug gasket with [insert sealing material here] and you've got a recipe for pain.

Yeah that's basically what I've heard is that lube shops will tighten the fuck out of it with an impact wrench or torque wrench and it ends up fucking the threading in the pan.

Yeah I busted in panting and the old dude there gave me this look like "the fucks up with this guy?". Funny story though he didn't know what a breaker bar was and I basically had to pantomime what it is.

Usually when you buy a new filter it comes with a crush washer which is like a little washer made of soft metal (usually copper) that deforms around the plug so that it seals it up completely. If yours has something else to keep it sealed then I wouldn't worry too much.

yeah I've busted a few nuts before

Castrol GTX, Wix/napa gold

5k running full synthetic. I've worked at a couple lube shops and I just found it to be the best mix, ye they can run longer but I just don't see the benefit in doing so, starts to burn around 5-6 from my experience.

Constantly. My oil goes through my engine once and then is immediately ejected on to the road while fresh oil is pumped in from a reservoir. Keeps it fresh, anything less and you might as well just use water.

Twice a year in my truck. Every 3 months in my daily driver.

I think I last changed my cars oil at about 165k in 2015. It's now at 189k, with an extra quart or two whenever I hear something that makes me paranoid. I did used to change it once a year, about 15k miles, since buying it in 2012. Hopefully it doesn't die until I've found something I like to replace it.

>see some real black buildup when I remove the oil cap
>remove valve covers
>looks clean
I don't know, I still feel like changing the oil a hundred times to flush out any shit. Also I'm afriad to use actual flushing products because my engine is old as shit.

traffic killing me rarely driving nowadays is 2 years oil change fine?

interesting, currently delivery pizza but driving luggage sounds pretty chill

every 4000mi

I don't use it to commute. Fuck that noise.

Every Easter when the water gets warm, I cast my wicked incantations upon it, and then switch out the oil and filter now that it's not cold anymore.

>vacuum leak
>engine dies
>makes less torque than 4t due to volumetric efficiency

I haven't seen a drain plug run on with an impact in years. Most modern cars now have aluminium pans and the threat would just strip. Torque for them is something like 30nm max. If you can't get that off with just a wrench your a pussy that has no business working on lawn mowers let alone cars.

>How often does Veeky Forums change its oil?
>old shitbox burns synthetic high mileage stuff I put in it, lost a quart over 3000 miles
>didn't burn the conventional I had in it when I got it

Your synth versus conventional story is the same old story for some people at BITOG (Bob Is The Oil Guy) forums and some other places that people post comments about whether or not it's time to move on from conventional to full synthetic oil. As it ironically turns out, one of conventional oils problems is that it contains a lot of varied molecules and some molecules oxidize much sooner than others. They form an oxidized oil glaze on the various surfaces including wherever it may be leaking out. That glaze builds up and plugs up the leak. As the glaze gets worn away, new oxidized oil fills the gap and plugs it back up thus renewing the plug. Full synthetic doesn't break down fast enough in comparison to conventional oil. So switching to full synthetic means the glaze is eventually worn away and the leak continues.

Would the gasket seal be worn out as quickly if full synthetic oil was used from the very beginning? Probably not. But it's too late now. That poster's enemy might even be Pennzoil ULTRA which is their formula loaded up with more detergent for dirty running engines. Someone at BITOG took time lapse photos of the insides after switching to Pennzoil Ultra. That URL was also posted to Veeky Forums in an old thread topic conventional vs synthetic. The pictures showed over a six month period the oxidized glaze coating on the insides was eventually removed by the full synthetic pennzoil Ultra oil.

Does removal of glaze improve cooling of the engine? I don't know. I haven't seen anyone even try to test for that. Amateurs only have so much gear and are unable or unwilling to spend a lot of money to test ideas out.

Every 5k miles with regular, about every 5 weeks.

>Yeah that's basically what I've heard is that lube shops will tighten the fuck out of it with an impact wrench or torque wrench and it ends up fucking the threading in the pan.

Do places like Jiffy Lube use torque wrenches? Or is there an unofficial standard such as turn that plug just slightly tight against that crush washer? Do oil change places even replace the crush washer with a new one?

Stop driving shitty cars

Every 4,000 miles usually, which is usually done within two months

every time i drive my car

Most now use vacuum extractors and take it out the hole for the dipstick, especially if the filter is mounted at the top. No need to mess with drain plugs then.

25,000 miles or 1 year.

Why not just ride the bus helga

You're supposed to change it?

rip car

>Jiffylube
>Most now use vacuum extractors and take it out the hole for the dipstick
>No need to mess with drain plugs then.
Seems half-assed because sludge or sediment settles to the bottom of the oil pan. Removing the drain plug means that goo or any metal or dirt particles would flow out along with the oil.

Sucking it from the dipstick tube looks pretty hard in my car as there is no tube. The dipstick simply goes into a hole in the engine block. The hole is flush with the surface so there is no tube or fastener to grab onto.

Guys i am a brainlet, is there a tutorial or book or anything that tells me how to switch the oil in my mitsubishi colt V?

Every 16,000km in accordance with the service manual.

yes there is, probably on mitsubishi motors website

or just google it

I ran 6k on my last oil change with Castrol Magnatec 0w-20, blackstone labs reported high iron and said to change the oil so I did. Then I became convinced slightly high iron means nothing alone, so I'll give them the benefit of the doubt and take another sample at 6k miles (I put N52 Nd magnets on my oil filter this time to catch iron) and see what they have to say. If all other wear metals are still retardedly low, regardless of what the iron is I'm going to 7500 like I wanted to.

I don't.
The car burns a liter of oil per 1000kms so I just top it up.

Iknowrite.
So long as the proper rites to regularly appease the oil gods are performed, all is well.
And who is to say that we are not continuously changing the oil by this sacred act?
>vag.txt

wat am i suppose to do with old oil from my engine

An Autozone or whatever else will usually take it from you for free. Many towns or counties also offer a recycling program. Or just ask a local car shop or two.

And then there are other options that fall variously on your moral spectrum that will still get the oil dealt with better than just dumping it in the ground.

2 or 3 times a year, depending on how generous I am, and how the stars align, and when the weather is good.

Not a bad idea with those short trips.

>long life/good quality full synth oil
No problem.
>anything else
Change AT LEAST once a year.

Modern cars are designed to go a long way with their oil (given that it's the correct oil). Also if you just bought a second hand car without service history you should always change the oil as soon as possible.

My driving habits very conveniently align such that I can change it once a year when the Spring comes around and it's that pleasant sort of cool weather where you're not lying in melting slush or sweating your ass off, and now the oil got shat up with cold weather driving and the Summer is asking for fresh oil for hooning.

Good stuff.