QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

Which is why I returned it, waste of money

What's the difference between super chargers and turbo's? Also, why are turbo's preferred?

Are the 06 gto worth the money?
They're ugly as sin to be fair and heavy as fuck but with a 6.0l ls2 making 400hp stock I could see some serious fun being had.

Are subaru baja really universally regarded as ugly? Every time I tell someone I might buy one they say "ew."

I looked at the specs for the specific one at the buy here pay here near me and I like the look of the car on paper
>5 speed
>165hp is meh but not a race car
>seats 5
>awd
>weird little truck bed thing
>wouldn't look 100% retarded with light cluster, roof rack and skid plate
>mite b cool for camping trips

Am I missing something or people just hate the looks? Bad car or what?

What are some reasons why I shouldn't get a manual E46 330xi?

Is there any difference between the vw mk5 golf and rabbit other than badges?

I've never had one or known anyone who did, but I've always been kinda interested in it. Like you said, seems pretty decent on paper. And there's the fact it's pretty much the only newer ute you can buy in the US.
It does look fairly retarded tho. But fabrication exists, so...
My grandparents had a Brat one time, it was really awesome, but they ended up selling it.

Bajas keep up the great Subaru tradition of ugly ducklings that you can't figure out if they make any sense or not.

You're not missing anything. It's a car that makes sense sense to that 1 weirdo out of 1000. And if you're that 1 weirdo out of 500 that really likes it then you found your missing piece.

I think I'm just gonna get it. If anything I'm only out 3.5k, that won't hurt me too much as long as it runs and drives and works as a daily for a few years.

To me it strikes a good compromise of usable car and something I don't see on the road all the time, which I like. Poor car doesn't seem to have ANY fans though, with 0 aftermarket, and doesn't even fit in the subaru family to share parts from other cars. Which is ok, all I'd really need it to do is carry me to and from work, school, trails, maybe move a couch, seems legit.

It's a Legacy Outback wagon with a bed instead of a wagon. Nothing more, nothing less. If you would be happy in a Leggy Outback Wagon of the day but with an exposed bed then you would be happy in a Baja.

I forget the year range for it, but I think that might be in the EJ25 era where you might have to think about a head gasket job. The rest is just old car stuff.

If it makes you happy I say go for it.
Didn't know it had no aftermarket and doesn't share parts, seems like a fucked up thing to do on subarus part.
That doesn't seem like a terrible amount of money if it's in good condition.
You should put a lift on it. Don't think I've ever seen one lifted.

Well, after googling some more, some people say they've gotten lowering springs from other legacy cars to work, but nothing has come out for the baja by itself. You can always fab something with some imagination. If anything, I'd just want more power, but if it's a DD then fuck it, it's fine.

I feel you.
I tried to google bajas lifted, but nothing really came up, anything with an actual lift was a brat.
imo seems like a good dd

Will Massachusetts accept a printed out screenshot of the previous owners bill of sale as proof of ownership or do I need the original copy to get a title?

>niggerfag problems
Call and ask

closed on weekends

You can't wait until Monday?
>doesn't know what to do
>can't plan ahead
>asked Veeky Forums before asking a search engine
>confirmed nigger
Nigger.

If it's the valve guides than it means it'll be burning oil. I've looked into doing it for my Integra, it doesn't seem too hard. Just need a special tool and a weekend ($40 or something.)

If it's just the valve cover gasket, no problem. $12 part and you can do it in 15 minutes.

Although It's probably the valve guides. If it was the valve cover gasket, he probably would've mentioned it since it's easy and cheap.

Two questions.
Is pro tune similar to a COBB tune? Or does it mean you took it to a pro to do custom tune?

My car has 900 miles. When I place my foot under the brake pedal and lift my foot. The brake pedal moves up and down slightly. Is this normal?

Valve cover gasket is easy to see if you take a look at it because
>oh wow
>there's the oil
>hey
>it's coming right out of the valve cover gasket

The more important consideration is if you have to start taking everything apart, what other 15 things should you replace while you have it apart?

>already googled before posting
>plans ahead by asking a question while the real title is being mailed
>neither black nor gay

>neither black nor gay
Figures the most progressive state in the NE would be full of wanton bigots.

Yeah, protune means it was done by an experienced tuner specifically for your car. Cobb tunes and the like are off the shelf (OTS) tunes, which are usually fine if you just want some modest gains after installing some basic modifications. Protunes are required for more heavily modified cars, and while it's usually best to actually go to a tuner, some people can send you tunes online if you give them your vehicle's information.

As for your pedal, I think that should be fine but it depends on the car honestly. Have you tried googling the issue and checking forums to see if it's a common problem?

Superchargers run off a belt from the engine, turbos use exhaust gasses, to run. Turbos make more power and have less parasitic losses, but have to spool up and only provide power in a certain rev range, whilst superchargers provide power throughout the rev range.

BMWs awd sucks, and it's a BMW. if you can do repairs yourself get it, otherwise don't bother.

>less parasitic losses
*fewer

How do you get the cheapest insurance possible? What are you monthly premiums like?

ayyy dude lmao I have one. I have an 06 that I bought in 2012

Pros:
-The looks. I've never had anyone call it ugly to my face but I love the look of it.

-The pickup. Kind of an oshit bed where it can't really haul anything but it works in a pinch. I've moved entire apartments with it.

Cons:
-Engine size. I really regret not getting the turbo. It handles fine on the street but it just feels really heavy. I've driven the turbo and it feels so much nicer (they're a lot rarer though)

-The pickup. Again, it's small and not many accessories for it. It's also like 100% plastic.

Also, make sure the head gaskets aren't leaking oil.

The most beautiful Baja I've ever seen

>still running no camber in the rear
>front caster a shit
That's not how you manage it even at that kind of height and with expensive tires.

What kinda engine would give it power enough to hook a tow hitch to it? Say I wanted to haul a dual sport bike, would it fit in the back somehow, or would I need to haul a trailer?

I have a buddy who wheels and deals in subarus and could sell me a wrx engine for cheap.

The body isn't made with towing in mind, but to be honest it's made to take abuse and if you want to put on a hitch or carry some bikes then it'll be fine.

The auto might be your bet if you're going to haul heavy stuff. Otherwise even the base 2.5 will get you going as long as you understand it's a kind of old N/A 2.5.

You guys think I could fit a 94 K1500 in here? I managed to fit a single cab long box 79 Ford in with enough room in front to work in the engine bay.

>inb4 filthy garage

It's partially what I'm buying the truck for. Can't fit that shit in the jeep and I want a project to work on.

What cab and what length bed on the K1500?

Truck in question

Extended cab shortbed, should be about 218-219 inches overall length. Measure that out in your garage.
To my knowledge, a 79 long bed Ford is about half a foot shorter.

You could probably get a bike in there with the bed extender. I think I've seen people swap in EJ255s but I can't remember for certain

valdosta.craigslist.org/cto/d/2004-mazda-rx-8/6311802942.html

how hard is it to change apex seals? these cars are so fucking pretty, and the engines sound amazing, but that "4 grand at a shop" to change apex seals makes me leary

First off you have to shop around and call some places. It's fairly easy, you call up local offices or maybe a main company and they'll redirect you to a local agency and it's ok to state that you're just looking for a quote.

Next depends on the car, a 1996 civic ex is going to be loads cheaper than a '13 370z. Generally speaking, 4 doors are cheaper than 2 doors and lower horsepower is cheaper than high horsepower. An example of cheap insurance is the RX-8 with its fancy suicide doors putting it in the 4 door class.

Last is age, mileage per year, driving experience, and driving history. A 50 year old with a clean record is way cheaper than a fresh pimply 17 year old. Also girls are cheaper to insure than boys because of statistics and testosterone.

Without telling my life story, the insurance for my 02' wrx is about 700$ a year with full coverage.

>hates women
>WRX with less than $1k/yr
>let me tell you how it is, kid
>I had testosterone once, I know what it's like to be you
kek

First time I met a WRX guy it was shortly after they finally offered it in the US. He was like
>HEY HI HOWS IT GOIN
>YEA THEMS JAPPY SUBARUS ARE GREAT
>I LIKE TO GO SKIING
record scratch you're 70 years old how do you have the knees for that
>ANYWAY IT'S GREAT ON THE MOUNTAINS
>I LAVE AT ALL THE OTHER OLD BEAT UP GUYS

Went and measured (with a shitty 10' tape measure). From front of garage door to back wall is ~25 feet. Assuming I back it right up to the wall it should fit with room to get at the engine bay.

Which leads to question #2. What would cause no compression on cylinder 8 with no other discernable engine noise? I've driven it around, and besides the fact it clearly has a dead cylinder, it runs fine. Also something I've considered odd is no check engine light, but my jeep is flaky about throwing DTCs too what n there's clearly something amiss, so. Can a head gasket blow/a head warp in such a way as to cause only one cylinder to lose compression?

How difficult is it to replace an axle/halfshaft on a FWD car, and do all 4 rotors/pads? Car in question is a first gen mazda3.

Anyone know anything about this, I can't find shit...

Rotors and pads are usually easy and great starter DIY material.

Halfshafts, eh, depends on the model but get your brakes done first to explore. In the case of my half shafts I had to improvise to brace my rotors and use my favorite 4' cheater bar after catching it on to the hub not for which I bought a special 32mm socket to literally jump on until it moved. And the knocking the pins out of the shaft was an adventure.

So it's something to do after you're used to working on cars already.

You must have a lot of friends. I simply answered a question. Was I wrong in anything I said?

a-user s-stop it.

The boot on my front left halftshaft has been busted and the grease flung everywhere for god knows how long. Could potentially be from all the way when i first got the car almost 20k km's ago. One of my rotors is decently warped so it squeeks constantly until you brake. Dealership wants 165 not even with tax for a boot repair kit and 600(six hundred) dollars for one halfshaft. Rockauto sells remanned ones for about 122 but they are technically like 68 dollars but you got to send your old shaft to them. But the shipping on that could be costly. They sell new non-remanned ones from the same company, cardone but i have heard bad things about them.

Just get a legacy wagon honestly. they're more useful as a daily driver, and you can get more space out of them by dropping the back seats.

>my CV joint isn't clunking yet
Poorfag solution get a clamp-on boot from the nigger store like now before it starts clunking

>One of my rotors is decently warped so it squeeks constantly until you brake.
Your might have a deeper problem but this is your chance to do a rotor & pad job on your own, learn how to use brake lube, and if it's still an asshole after that then get ready to accept you need to replace something more complicated and expensive, I can think of a few things but there's no need to focus your mind on them at this point.

Took the front plate holder off my car because I don't need it but of course now I've got two holes in my bumper. Is there anything I cold fill them with or cover it up with to make it look decent?

Could buy a small tube of gasket RTV in blue I guess, or a pottle of colour-matched touchup paint and go at it till it fills the hole.

sand it down, use bondo to fill holes, match paint.
alternatively, sand it down, then wrap that panel and some others to go for a two tone look /shrug

I mean, i took apart the rotor and caliper that was squeeking bad and it seemed that the guidepins were just really seized, more so on one side. So that might pressure got applied unevenly on the rotor and build up a highspot. I am a pretty big poorfag so i just wetsanded the shit out of the rotor on the side that was warped. Then i lubed everything up, used silicone lube on the guidepins. It stopped the squeek completely for 1 whole day, was pretty proud of myself. Then the nextday it slowly came back and is now back in full force.

The side with the bad CV is now squeekly, a lot more silently than the other side but still squeeking a bit. Honestly idk if i want to put anymore money into this car, it is just a shitty rusting mazda but i love 3s. Their is nothing really wrong with it other than that squeek and the CV. Everything works in it and the interior is pretty mint, only has 213k~km on it atm but i can see a little bubble forming on the quarterpanels and the rockers are starting to rust.

All new 4 rotors and pads plus the halfshaft from rockauto will be around 450-500 dollars after getting fucked by customs and tax.

easiest fix: cut off all the excess with a razor blade so its just a small, clean hole, most people wont notice

Don't care what others think but I'll definitely notice it

Local Craigslist has a USDM ae86(88) with a 13b rotary swapped in. Car is clean. Is this bullshit or brilliant and should I be interested?

depends on the quality of the mount, wiring, exhaust work and tune. How they mated the transmission to the engine and driveshaft is a good question to ask. which transmission is being used, 86 or rx7? Is the driveshaft cut?

Using the rx7 transmission. And all of the peripherals under the hood are rx7 parts. I do not know the state of the driveshaft. I have yet to call and talk to the guy about it, but my concern is "why is he selling it?" If I've got to replace the apex seals, it's way outside of my budget of time or money.

if it runs, the apex seals are fine. when apex seals fail, the engine goes BANG, lots of scraping noises and apex seal bits out the exhaust. What probably needs replacing are water jackets, oil rings/springs, or gas seals. $300 or less unless they all went bad at the same time, then it's like $600 lmao. If I were to buy a rotary shitbox off of someone, the first thing I would do is tear apart the engine. It's not that hard to do so and they're really light so it makes for easy removal and installation. Buy a torque wrench, harbor freight engine hoist, and a tub of vaseline. there you go, an engine rebuild for

I have $8000 left on my car payments at a 16.7% interest rate cause I was a stupid 18 year old that decided to finance a new car with barely any credit when I first got it. My aunt offered to pay it off with her credit card and then I just pay her. We're tight as fuck so I know she's not gonna screw me over. Are there any downsides to doing this?

I work with a group of 5 other people. We travel a lot and are looking to get a car specifically for our job. Can anybody recommend something relatively fuel efficient, but big enough to comfortably fit 5 people + luggage?

Sounds like a good case for getting new calipers then. I had a couple where the pins were gouging and even though I cleaned and regreased them I guess they were too far gone or whatever because eventually they started binding up, smoking, and squealing in a matter of weeks. Only got out of it by replacing everything at once.

Dunno if you'll kick yourself for giving it one more chance but you sound enough like me that I can't argue. Love is probably going to have to be over sooner than later, but this might not be the end of the road.

Why did she offer? Just because she's old and she wants to do something nice? In-family loans are how things are supposed to work but they're notorious for causing bad blood that goes even worse than when you think you'll be happy renting a house with your best mates only to find out you actually hate each other.

What's she getting out of it and can you pay her back on schedule?

How urgent is it to replace the throwout bearing when it starts making a noise? I bought the car 3000km ago and I didn't hear anything suspicious when I test drove it then, but it has since developed a hissing noise when I depress the clutch.
The car has also developed some metallic clunking/rattle at low RPMs for example when you take off without enough gas, can that be down to the clutch as well or is it more likely something else.

Very often a throwout bearing will chug along making noise for thousands of miles. So will a wheel bearing. When the noise starts to change rapidly, that's when you know you should have replaced it already.

Thanks, that's good news. The parts themselves aren't expensive, but I'll have to buy 4 new winter tyres soon so I don't have the money for the clutch right now.
The bearing itself is 25 euro, 75 for the whole clutch assembly, labor is 50 about euro either way I think, so I'll probably replace the whole assembly next year.

>clutch job under 200
Dam son. Yeah, do everything while you have it open, but no hurry. I've never needed a winter tire but if you live in winter tire zone then you know that's way more important.

This is the only explanation I understood well so far. Thank you my friend.

What are the jobs in a typical car dealership?

13b "needs rebuild" engine for $350 on craigslist, yes or no? I will be rebuilding it myself. I just hope the housings, rotors and irons aren't all fucked

You're lucky you got that much of an answer. It's such an Veeky Forums meme/troll question I don't think I even ever saved the pics. Undoubtedly scads of people like myself took one look at it and noped out of trying to provide a serious answer.

JDM Bugeye STi Type RA

Anyone got an idea what the unmarked switches might be?
They are not in the manual, and can't find anything online

That is not a bugeye, that's a GC interior and they are most definitely aftermarket buttons.

They infuriate two families in India by turning the light on and off.

That looks a bit like somebody did a good job of putting switches in blank panels. Presumably, since it's a JDM RA, they do something cool enough to warrant putting in switches and making them look nice. But good luck figuring it out if you're not keen to trace the wiring and if flipping them when you're bored doesn't produce any obvious result.

I stand corrected, turns out those parts are almost identical between GD and GC. But the buttons are still aftermarket.

It's the 2001 JDM model, living in Japan so it was bought here

Thought it was aftermarket as well, except for those switches rest of the car is completely stock. It has also been fitted with an Automatic DCCD switch which wasn't in this model originally.

>also been fitted with an Automatic DCCD switch which wasn't in this model originally.
If you can get in touch with the previous owner, ask what they do. He might have just disconnected them to sell it, but this is exactly the kind of car where he might have rigged up some cool shit that you'd enjoy.

Can't get in touch with the previous owner, I only know it was some old guy. So I guess tracing them is the best option, since they don't do anything noticeable

>fail inspection because of dragging rear brake, inspector suspects caliper/piston
>replace pads, notice that new pads are a few mm less wide than old ones
>old ones needed to be pried and beaten out of the caliper bracket
>new ones just slotted in
Is it possible the previous owner used the wrong pads, and that's why they were dragging?

>old ones needed to be pried and beaten out of the caliper bracket
Sounds exactly right, even if you greased them (protip anti-seize works as well if you use the high-temp compound)

>new ones just slotted in
Lucky asshole

>new pads are a few mm less wide than old one
You mean less thicc? I think that's what you mean if they fit in and they work. In that case, there's nothing to worry about other than that maybe you got cheapass pads that will wear out faster. Check your brake fluid level and be done with it.

Also looking for probably an older vehicle. Our price range isn't huge right now, we can as a group save about 1k a week but the earlier the better

I don't understand these questions. Find out what's cheap and available near you and then pick something that fits people and people shit that's cheap and doesn't suck ass. This shouldn't be difficult.

Yeah, 4chans all a troll but I was able to get the idea on what you said because I have been for the past few weeks trying to understand the difference between Turbocharging and Supercharging and all I found found online was long explanations with detailed diagrams which made be bored out from reading all of that.

What adhesive for "rebadging" a car?

What the hell is so hard? With a turbo, the engine blows a little wheel that pushes more air in than it would be able to suck in on its own.

With a supercharger it turns a belt to push more air in than it could suck in on its own.

The turbo recovers some of the latent energy in the hot exhaust gases. It's a sick cunt except that in the case of gas engines they're still working on WWII tech to figure out how to run it lean of peak to actually be efficient rather than just drink fuel when you're in the boost. The supercharger isn't automatically N/A unless you spec it like that but there's no spool-up while you're enjoying parasitic losses and it's as long as they're making turbos run pig rich nobody cares about theoretical fuel efficiency.

My thing is I'm not sure how accurate any of the 'oh ho ho ford/dodge/ram sucks' shit is. I'm totally ignorant to automobiles when it comes to companies and what's legitimately good. I was looking for recommendations.

Define your needs, use the internutz to see what's available near you within your price range. Pick your top 10 cars that look maybe gud.

Then you can go in to greater detail to see if any of them are actually gud or which ones are hell on wheels, and possibly expand your search radius from there as needed.

/dbt isn't responding, so I guess I'll post it here.

marktplaats.nl/a/motoren/motoren-honda/m1205493239-zeer-nette-honda-xl600r.html?c=efb2ef4dc323389c4f92ed10afa33e3a&previousPage=lr&pos=21

>1983 XL600R
>1250 EUR
>Runs & starts fine
>Completely restored by previous owner
>Missing ignition key

How good/bad of a deal does this sound like? New ignition lock is 214 EUR from the dealer, could I use that to haggle him down (and then install a 40 EUR one from ebay)?

>whilst superchargers provide power throughout the rev range.
Most traditional (positive displacement) superchargers actually taper off after peak boost (usually low in the RPM range) because they're rapidly losing efficiency at that point.

Then there's centrifugals which are basically linear in boost delivery. Pic related.

Is it ever worth buying an abandoned impound car or police auction car or anything of the sort?