I'm dun goofed Veeky Forums

I'm dun goofed Veeky Forums

I've painted my breaking discs with hammerite to make then look like pic related. I wanted to prevent corrosion.
I drove the car today and after some harsh breaking-maneuvers there was blue smoke comming from all 4 wheels

that would be material burning off

>breaking discs

the rotors heat up and they'll burn the oily residue off of the paint. just hoon it around, doing a lot of fast braking and it should be fine

Unlike pic related I didn't paint the area where the rim is pressed against the disc, but I painted my callipers and brackets as well.

Everyone here swears on Hammerit and refrains from buying Foliatec stuff cause it's jew priced.

The pads must not get greasy or oily because they will soak it up and you won't get rid of it anymore. What about lacquer?

Why? If anything you're only supposed to use anti seize to keep the hat from rust welding to the hub

Brake dust and corrosion are not the same

>blue smoke
DORITO? Or 300k mile civic with a blown headgasket?

Doing so will put increased strain on the bolts.

I've cleaned the hat and hub with a wire brush and the bolts with a cloth and brake cleaner.

I know, the paint was supposed to serve both purposes.

This was before painting.

Normal hammerite is not very heat-resistant, and as such what is happening is the paint burning up and flaking off

>put something on something that is a friction surface and otherwise gets really hot
>smoke
>whyyyyyy

The hammered finish was recommended by a lot of forums for this purpose.

I didn't paint over the friction area or pads.

If this thread is still alive in 10 hours, I'll post OC of my horrible paint job.

>a thin layer of anti seize will increase strain on the bolts
Not u less they're made out of paper mache

I did the same thing but I bought purpose built high temperature engine paint for mine. The extreme 1000deg shit. Haven't had any issues at all. Looks as good as it did when I intalled my rotors around 500 miles ago.

I'm living under the influence of the jews here in Germany. One can of Hammerite was 7€, I couldn't resist.

Kill yourself my man

All you need to clean the rust was a wire brush then use brake cleaner and wipe it off.

After that you cover the part where your rotor will make contact with the pad which is the area that's silver in your picture.

People use the Engine enamel High Heat but that is 500F. I bought pic related which withstands 1200F. Hopefully it works.

Doing a rear drum to disc conversion on my Geo Metro. Found a Swift to pull all the parts.

>If this thread is still alive in 10 hours, I'll post OC of my horrible paint job.

Do it

Bumping for pics.

Gimme a few mins.

Lubricating fastener threads will allow the fastener to experience significantly higher tension. Its not a good idea.

rear before

rear after (copper paste on pad's rear)

painted brake disc

You did a pretty shit job. Didn't bother to dremel the area to make the paint not look like a pizza.

Did you not clean the rust off first?

It's Hammerite Hammer finish. I chose it delinerately because it wouldn't have to grind everything smooth beforehand.

Pic is painted front

I did with a wire brush, rim cleaner then kärcher

Painting the calliper and bracket was not a bad idea, painting the hat was ok as well. Getting paint on the outer rim of the discs was the worst idea.

Bolt's aren't supposed to be load bearing, the load is supposed to be transmitted through the friction face between the wheel and hub.

Wait, you put the copper antiseize on your pads? There's your problem

AFAIK, hammerite hammered finish is not a high temperature paint. Strip it off and use high temp enamel instead. It will cure to a nice hard coating.

are you following that tripfag from thread to thread, telling him to kill himself?

i melt and mold aluminum in my backyard. aluminum melts at 1200f and my furnace runs about 1500f. i sprayed my ingot mold with this stuff as an anti stick and it works like a charm and doesnt burn or anything. if it can withstand molten aluminum, it can withstand brake heat easily.

On the rear, where they rub against the calipper. There's also special high temperature grease for that purpose but that my stuff was all I had.

should have used zinc primer for that factory fresh look

It can work if the area you apply it to is properly cleaned and the paint allowed to fully harden - but even then I've never had success with it on high-temp stuff like exhausts and ovens. Get some paint that is made for high-temperature application (they do sell specially-made caliper paint on rattlecans), clean the area properly and then apply

And a small tip; when you've painted it - let it sit for 30-ish minutes to dry, then put it in an oven preheated to 250 degrees celcius, and let it sit for an hour. This will harden the paint and allow it to sustain the higher temperatures even better

In due time, friend