[Daily Bike Thread - /dbt/]

what you replacing it with?

I'm going to pay my drafwag friend on Patron to draw wr user and his imaginary gf in a fictional rape scene

rate my idea?
I planned about 20 bucks

A new, red SV650

good lad. now we finally have a red one

Just these two and a microfiber cloth to wipe it down. Only took about 30 minutes, but I didn't do the whole exhaust

When I changed my back tire, I kinda scratched up the inside of the rim pretty good.

Is this going to drop resale value by any large margin or will people generally not care because you don't ever see that part of the rim anyway?

why new? they haven't really been updated in like 20 years

TT 600

Probably. People will do what ever they can to drop the price.
Just don't mention it, and if a buyer picks it up on it then drop some off the value.

depends how scratched up it is, post pics.

Why not?

I'm planning on trading it in at a used dealer so I don't know how thoroughly they'll inspect it. I don't know if they regularly remove tires for inspection.

If not a dealer I'll be selling to a friend, so I won't be hiding anything.

Fire's already on so I can't get pics right now.

*Tire's

oh you mean like inside where you can't even see? no that won't affect value.. How would they even know?

Ayy.

that's a big bike

For you.
Where's yours?

car or bike, which is more expensive in the long run in regards to maintenance?

also, what's the best starter bike in your country?

many thanks

rather not say

Car will always be more expensive in the long run if you can't service it yourself.
Usually beginners ride 500's like a gs, a cb or an er5.

Come oooon.
...it's still in your imagination is it?

Buy a Honda Cub and you'll be set for life.

I just didn't know if a dealer would go through removing a tire just to check the entirety of the rim.

Lol, no. Mechanics just visually look it over, check the fluids, and listen for noises when you bring it for an inspection.

Sweet.

Thanks famalam.

Rode (and can always jump on) this model, I'll stick to my 1150.

They normally don't even change the tyres

Old mama 1150 isn't a bad bike indeed.
Adventures are a bit too bulky for me, i commute in the city, gotta be able to split lanes.

I'm thinking about bleeding my front brake tomorrow. I have a SV650S. The front wheel has two calipers, if I happened to have a buddy around, could we have both nipples tubed up and bleeding at the same time?

Man, that sentence sounds a lot wronger in english than in my native tongue.

Nope, better drain each caliper separately to avoid bubbles.
The longer one first.

oh, how I do want one
I didn't respect underbones till I saw the Cub

Will do. Never bled them before, don't mean to completely change fluid, just get rid of air and top off. Think one 250ml bottle will suffice? Clymer doesn't say how much brake fluid total is required.

>nipples

heehee

no talking about lewd stuff on a blue board

...

Post pic
If you have a poorfag tier setup you have to do them in order

more like

It's better to drain the whole thing, mixing two different brake fluids is a bad idea, especially if the previous liquid is old.
If it's been changed a few days/weeks ago and it's the same brand/type, you're good to top it.

I'd been considering that move but it's October in a few days and I don't expect to get another full 2 months of riding before winterizing. Next season I'd like to install new brake lines and I'll change all the fluid then.

Then again, if it's really just one 250ml bottle, I might do it.

>first ride after 3 weeks

God I missed this so much

You mean it's bad to mix two different brands of the same kind of fluid?

Or are you talking about mixing different fluid ratings?

Both, same as engine oil, you wouldn't mix different grades/manufacturers.
Stick to one brand/type of dot.
A 500ml container or brake fluide is around 10€, don't be cheap with your brakes.

>Both, same as engine oil, you wouldn't mix different grades/manufacturers.
What

lad............

You wouldn't mix 10w40 with 25w50, same as you wouldn't mix ipone oil with castrol's for exemple.
Different formulas and esthers.

I mix all brands, synthetic and mineral and sometimes 10w40 and 10w50.

As long as your properly drain it, it doesn't really matter. I always switch my bikes to Motul when I buy them and never had an issue.

Well, to each its ways i guess, but that can't be good for your engine, especially mixing mineral and synthetic.

Mixing mineral and synthetic just produces semi-synthetic.

Also, everything is better than running out of oil.

>riding back roads through the woods I've never been on
>nice twisty, well-maintained roads
>tfw it leads right back to a highway that goes back to my house

Yesterday was a good day.

Depends on country because taxes figure in

Shitbike is usually cheaper than car, especially shaft drives or scooters (same thing lmao)
Sportsbike sometimes costleir

>car or bike, which is more expensive in the long run in regards to maintenance?
cheap bike is cheaper than a car, but a lot of the maintenance is preventative so ensure your safety which can make it cost more.
>also, what's the best starter bike in your country?
whatever's cheap

Ok now you're just trolling me.
Read this :
machinerylubrication.com/Read/28867/mix-synthetics-mineral-oils

This ain't the fifties anymore mate, "oil is oil" is good for tractors, not bikes.

Depends on the bike.

My CBR500R is a "sport" bike and it's cheap as hell to maintain so long as you take care of it.

What makes it expensive is if you don't keep up your brakes and chain to the point where you're having to get new pads and even a new chain.

Except it literally all performs the same function, the rest is up to preference. Mixing oil is perfectly fine

>My CBR500R is a "sport" bike
no..

You can mix whatever, dude
The only nono's in using synth in wankels and mixing dot5
Oh and don't use car oil in wet clutch bikes

Even a chain is cheap and won't go for at least 10k miles
Brake pads are like $20usd

But my bike is a tractor.

>messaged a guy on craigslist about a bike yesterday for a good deal
>still hasn't responded
it's gone isn't it

Hence the " ", smart ass.

still wrong

Still, spending $40 for chain lube is better than regularly spending $200 for a new chain.

I have the GP Pro R gloves and they're pretty awesome, have a kevlar lining as well.

Your engine your rules, fill it with fryer oil if you want i wouldn't give a care in the world, but don't come crying when you'll take a pound of gunk out of your engine after mixing oils.

>New chain
>200
Nigga wat
I pay half than that for a full driveline
Is your chain made of gold?

Still don't give a fuck.

Sooo
how would you flush if "u cant mix oilz!!1!1!!!!11!"

ok sorry i was rude, enjoy your motorcycle user

i rode one last year, they're nice little bikes

Brake fluid is a little different mang.

It is perfectly fine to replace brake fluid by topping off the reservoir as you bleed them, stopping when the fluid coming out of the caliper is the clear new fluid instead of the dirty brown old shit.

DOT 5 is the only shit you should never, ever mix or place in your system unless it's specifically designed for it. 3/4 are perfectly capable of being mixed, and nobody really uses 5.1 anymore.

>This much retardation about oil
>Mixing brake fluid is fine
Holy-o fuck

Before dumbassery

Too late

After dumbassery

>Kawasaki
>Any color but kawasaki green or electric blue

Good, now you can ditch the world's ugliest fairings.

Flush it? You mean drain it?
Same as always, there's a difference between MIXING and REPLACING oils.
As said, as long as you drain it completely, it won't mix with the old oil, it'll only leave a coat of chemicals in your engine if you've been using full synth, but it won't damage it.
Pull my leg all you want, i like to take care of my engine.

Theyre glossy black now, dont have pics tho

My buddy bought a bike, and a thousand miles or so he topped off the oil since it was a little low. Previous owner used mineral, friend topped it off with a full synthetic mobil 1 motorcycle oil.

Not too much longer, he was having a really hard time finding neutral. We did a full blown oil/filter change as we popped open the clutch cover to examine what was wrong, and the oil filter was fucking filled with this weird black sludge shit. We gave everything an in-depth cleaning, bolted it all up and filled it with the same brand full synthetic oil, suddenly all the issues were fixed and everything was bueno.

So yeah, I'll never mix oils in any of my bikes because that whole situation was a shitshow.

>Pull my leg all you want, i like to take care of my engine.
But my engine literally runs better than ever, at 150k km and a blend of 4 different types of oil.

that article was about dumb shit like mixing transmission gear oil and engine oil, ATF and fork oil, etc

mixing engine oil between brands and synthetic/conventional/blends is okay and won't harm anything. it might degrade the performance of the oil a little but that's about it. this is considered when oils are formulated because nobody remembers what they have in there when they need to top it off.

>Drain it completely
>Without flushing
Retard
You know, before motorcycle specific oils even existed we used diesel stuff
A bike will happily run on rotella t5 with no problem hell, old single cylinders can run on waste oil

You have to mix oils if you have an old bike or live in a hot or cold place

>my friend bought a bike but didn't change the oil or even check if it was still clean
>a thousand miles later, the oil filter was full of sludge

Woah no shit. Must have been the synthetic's fault.

Or maybe the previous owner adhered to the good ol once a season regardless of mileage oil change that has killed far too many bikes

5.1 is supposed to be BETTER than 3 and 4, lots of people use it and it can be mixed with 3 and 4.

I know 5.1 is supposed to be better, but I've never seen anyone using it and have never seen it on a shelf. Maybe it's more popular than I thought.

If I have the money I just prefer to get a really nice chain.

A cheaper one will do just fine, it's just my preference.

5.1 can be mixed AND boils higher
The fucking numbers tell you how much stress the fluid can take before boiling and locking your brakes

I have it.
Was also the only type the dealer had.

The previous owner was actually just finishing up an oil change as we showed up to buy the bike and it only had 3k miles on it overall. We saw him pouring in the oil and everything. Ran perfectly fine the entire time after that, the problems started at the point when my buddy topped it off with a different type of oil.

Black or white kawis look pretty dope