Anyone here ever deal with insurance totaling out a car...

Anyone here ever deal with insurance totaling out a car? They want to total out my girlfriends civic for only $2400 even though it only had a little over 100,000 miles and was in good working condition before the accident. 2400 seems like a slap in the face considering you can't even get the 3k civic meme for that much. The only other option is to try and have it fixed and in that case they are willing to give 2600.

That's what insurance does. They'll only give you what the car is "worth" in their eyes. That's only based on something like KBB value or some shit like that. They don't consider how valuable it is to you, being a reliable car and such. They're going to try to pay out as little as possible to you because they don't want to lose money performing the actual service you pay them to do. Either way, you're going to lose money, either buying a whole new car, or spending above and beyond that $2,600 to get it fixed.

>Ur fuked

I know it's not helpful but such Civic is 5-7k€ in yurop.

That's still drive-able. Take the $2,400 and shut the fuck up.

I got $2600 for my 92 Accord earlier this year.

To piggyback off my comment - the insurance company chose 4-5 cars in similar condition to mine around my region, then take the average price of those.

This.

01 Boxster, 55k miles.

Lady who caused the total out's company was trying to give 8, and I'm like nah find another one within reason with that kind of miles and was as mint for under 14. I'll wait.

Spoiler alert, I got 14.5k

I was in a similar situation a few years ago, where I was only being offered $2000 on a car I bought for $4000 half a year earlier. I sent my insurance company the bill of sale and printed out ads on craigslist and stuff where the average selling price was $3800. I ended up getting $3300 from them. Worth a try

If it were my car I would, but given that she can't work on her car and I'm to far away to do anything, not to mention that the airbag went off and who knows what other things are damaged, it's not as simple as that

Yea it is, unfortunately both the woman who hit her and my girlfriend have budget insurance that don't give a shit and just pump out a take it or leave it number because they know the person buying their insurance has no other choice

And were you able to get another decent car for that?

Progressive totalled my 05 Honda Accord LX after a tree fell on it; it had 154k miles on it.

They valued the car at $4,883 and gave the check to the lienholder, while I got a $417 refund on the amount I spent over time for gap coverage.

Their value was $1,000 more than my estimate.

Seems like you could have got in there with a jack, popped the roof back in place got all new glass and walked away with a few thousand bucks in your pocket and car that won't look perfect but drives good

Insurance companies will try to lowball you. It's in their best interest.

Like others have said: find similar cars (make, year, miles, condition) and send them to your agent.
Most insurance companies will give you pretty close to what it's worth if you show them the evidence. They just bank on people not asking for more.

If the airbag already deployed, just take the money since I'm sure you don't want your gf to be in some piece of junk with no airbag if some idiot rear-ends her. Just put it toward another Civic that has under 150k miles, and you should be good for the time being. Used Civics aren't exactly hard to find.

>they don't want to lose money performing the actual service you pay them to do

Insurance fag here. You seem to have a fundamental misunderstanding of what insurance is for, and have probably never read your policy.

There's a huge difference between what people *THINK* their insurance is for, and what it actually covers them for. Usually the former is a collection of assumptions based on absolutely nothing and anecdotes/fables told to them by morons. The latter is clearly written in your policy and can be extrapolated upon by speaking with a broker or simply using Google.

We'll assume OP's GF has the most common form of auto policy, which permits for repair or replacement at the Insurer's discretion. This is almost universally exercised in favour of the more cost-effective option, but because the repairs and the actual cash value are so close, they've actually given her a choice.

The actual cash value is based on what that vehicle, with those options, currently sells for in the local market. It takes into account mileage, condition, trim level, and any additions that may have been made (i.e. aftermarket parts). Sometimes Insurers will also credit a sum for recent maintenance (i.e. front brake calipers, rotors, and pads replaced 3 months ago - we could give you reimbursement for the cost of the parts).

For what appears to be a 10 year old Civic with over 100,000 miles (and we don't know what trim), that's probably a fair estimation.

OP, if your GF is contesting the settlement offer, she needs to back it up with something. Check autotrader and Craigslist for what I described above, and if you can come up with a reasonable number of vehicles that match yours (or are quite close - again, Civic, same year, similar mileage and trim, condition) - show this to your Insurer. We DO consider amendments, but given that our offer is actually based on this type of information, your adjuster has likely already done this.

You don't get to keep the car AND take the settlement. Insurer will auction off the wreck, and depending on the severity of the damage and resultant government branding/titling, it may be sold for parts or rebuilt and re-sold.

Not likely

Why do people keep thinking that you get to keep the smashed car AND take a settlement based on the car's current value? You don't. You never do. If you want to keep your smashed car, they subtract the estimated salvage value from the settlement (i.e. what the wreck would go for at auction).

If the vehicle is written off, your DMV/MTO is notified and the vehicle's title is changed to SALVAGE. That's not insurable and can't be registered to drive. It has to be changed to REBUILT, which means you need to prove to the government and your insurance company that the vehicle is safe and roadworthy. This is quite difficult to do, because typically the vehicle has underlying damage which makes it inherently unsafe.

>Insurance companies will try to lowball you. It's in their best interest.

There's a wide spread from one company to another. Some are absolute cheap shit niggers, and others are quite good about settlement. Typically, you get what you pay for. If you're insured with a cheap insurance company, or even a larger one that is still very Jewish (Progressive and GEICO come to mind), you'll probably get fucked at settlement time. They will low-ball you, and dick you around. If you're with a better company, like State Farm or TD Meloche Monnex, you're going to get a fair settlement.

Keep in mind this extends to stuff like towing reimbursement, rental coverage, storage fees, liability coverage, accident benefits, etc.

That's the way we are heading, if it was me I would be willing to deal with it but because she lives in the city another crash is almost a Given

Thanks for good info mate, we are looking at other civics in the area to find if their estimation is fair and more then likely moving on to another vehicle

Boyo here more or less has the deets.

Just sometimes, the adjuster is a raging retard that all of his co-workers agree needs fired but somehow he never gets fired.

So when he tries to total out my said 01 minty low mile Boxster for 7500 dollar worth of deer strike, something is up.

He only valued it at 9k and never bothered to actually come look at it. I proved via security footage he never showed up.

L o D S of e m o n e for me

this fat person is offering okay advice. Lawyer up if you must but it's probably not worth your time.

Also try not being poor.

Unless you can reasonably and objectively prove that the car's value is worth more than that, I'd just take the $2400 and be done with it, also it seems like you have very basic insurance, so there isn't much wiggle room for you to basically barter. As said here, unless you have receipts of more recent repairs like brakes or tires, then you're probably not going to get much more of a payout.

>T. adjuster

Some cunt rear ended and totaled my moms 07 accord base model 5 speed with 50k on it like 2 years ago.

They offered like $7500ish I think she managed to get $8500 because she saw another for that much. Probably would cost like $10k for an exact same mileage though.

GEICO paid me $3600 for my rusted piece of shit 2003 Olds Alero (with 65k miles though). Before the accident I was actually considering spending ~200 on repairs and then hopefully selling it for 1500.
Still would not want to be rear-ended again.

Jewco made me pay $200 out of pocket to fix my gf's Nissan Versa after some boomer cunt with no insurance ran a red light and knocked off the front bumper.