Concerns, issues and worries

My a/c compressor isn't getting any power so it doesn't blow cold. I looked up the fuses that correspond to the a/c and they're both fine. There's freon in the system so it's not that. a/c shit is literally the only thing I have no clue about in cars.

Suck it up and get a job. It will teach you time management, maybe introduce you to a new friend or friends, and give you money. But you may hate it if it's retail or food industry.

...

I was thinking of a job at a warehouse, they pay a lot better than retail here. But fuck I resent the idea of giving up 8+ hours of my day again.

When I started working, I realized how much of my free time I wasted just hanging out, not even rewlly enjoying myself or keeping up my room. Warehouse is a good choice if the managers aren't assholes.

I have a 2009 Corolla, base model
>almost 180,000 miles
>pulsing at idle
>soft brakes

I'm not sure what I should do

I'm afraid I'm going to fuck up my beautiful driver seat. How can I stop rubbing up against the seat when getting in without looking like a retard?

Soft brakes might mean air in the lines, low pads, worn disks, a bad caliper, or something else. Get them bled first and go from there.
>pulsing at idle
Like the engine rpm changes a lot?

new rotors & brake fluid? can't cost you anymore than $120. pulsing at idle -- you mean the revs bounce from low to high? what are the numbers? you should do some basic maintenance like throttle body, maf, air filter and put some kind of fuel treatment + chevron gas to help clean shit up.

My baby makes one single metallic clang when I first start driving her after starting her. It's my first car and no one else ever showed me how to do anything with cars, but I want to fix it. I just can't figure out what it is since it only happens within the first 30 seconds of driving and no other time. It used to only happen if I cut hard to the left pulling forward, but now it even happens if I just drive in a straight line after starting. Would love any advice from someone who actually knows their shit.

>anyone who actually knows there shit
Haha
>Car
>Year
>Miles
My guess is drive shaft though.

I'm constantly afraid my girlfriend will leave me for some chad at her uni because we're long distance for the time being.

>when it comes to your beloved vehicle
...oh
I guess I'm concerned about another break in, and my paint is totally fading and I'm afraid of the clear coat peeling. I try to wax it every wash but I feel like it's just slowing it down.

2009 Mitsubishi Galant close to 140k miles. I think my drive shaft has surface rust, but I'm not 100% sure on what the drive shaft looks like after a google image search, sorry

>own a 2015 Ford Fusion (purchased November 2014)
>did the one recall it had done
>car is now louder at 30,000 miles than it was before
>rim has been repaired once after extended warranty before and car is about to exit manufacturer warranty
It just seems a bit louder now than it did earlier, is the dealer going to give a shit if I try to claim earlier? On one hand service before warranty end is supposed to be manufacturer on the other hand they can delay it for profitability of potential "after warranty repair" to some degree but a third party that's more "hungry" than the manufacturer is going to authorize that.

im such a useless faggot and everything i touch in my engine bay just ends up getting 10x worse like
I changed spark plugs and cleans the MAF sensor and let it dry for about an hour and when I went to start the car the entire thing shook like it was on hydraulics. I couldn't find what I did wrong and I got so infuriated with myself I just never touched the shitbox again.
SO basically whats the best way to kill myself?

The rusty part looks like this and runs from the front middle toward the back of the car on the underside, just in case I'm thinking of a different part

I replaced all 8 glow plugs, which cost like fucking $13each, used proper motorcraft plugs, and now it starts worse than it did before

One of the previous owners got in a front end accident and put it together with some fasteners missing and bent sheet metal making stuff not align properly.

Fugg

Seat cover

Your driveshafts go to the front wheels.

check the driveshaft for play like the other user said. I'd bet that's what it is

I feel you user. My gf goes to school 1 and a half hours away from me. So it could be worse, but I am afraid too. At least my shitbox can make it there tho.

This link has given me confidence to eventually dive into my 80s r12 system.
polarbearinc.com/Trouble1.htm

Yea, that is the driveshaft. Unless it's really bad rust shouldn't be a problem, otherwise it wouldn't be exposed and unprotected on the bottom of the car. And I don't know why it would make a loud clank. And also if something was wrong with your driveshaft it would probably be off balance, and your car would shake like a motherfucker.
Where does the sound come from user? Under you, the front of the car? The rear? Left, right, or center?

using a helicoil insert on a strip spark plug thread on a 4.7L dodge engine.
the spark plugs are deep in there.
How the hell do I know when I've gone the right depth with the helicoil tap?

pls halp

Thanks all you anons. Can I check the play without lifting the car? I only have the jack for changing a tire at the moment. But there's no shaking in the car; I had some when I first got it but it turned out that the previous owner just hadn't balanced the tires, and doing that fixed the shaking completely. Definitely the front of the car. I lean toward the driver's side but I'm not completely sure on that.

Looking to get a used car, found a 2011 BMW 328i with 110k miles on it for under 10 grand. Good deal or not?

I have a civic si and I can hear the engine change pitch if I turn on a/c while idling. I have 200hp and 4 torques :((((

Forgot to add: previous owner had an accident hitting the front driver's side that dented the front bumper and broke one headlight in case that affects things. I also have a video of the sound if that would help, I'm just trying to find a place to upload it more anonymously since I was a dumbass and fell for letting Google put my full name on my Youtube account.

The actual sound is at 1:07, the rest is just video I didn't trim off. Volume has to be up high to hear the sound.

vimeo.com/236341641

even if you found a nice deal on a luxury car -- you're going to find nice deals on parts -- and to service BMW's you typically have to go to a dealer. have your angus peppered when it comes to repair costs, cuz it ain't cheap.

Is 150 USD for a car cover a rip off?

I just recently bought an el camino. It was running great for the last week or so but then it just shit out on me

Mine's 8. My shitbox could probably make it, plus I have an excuse to go up PCH.

This has been going on since I bought it
>clutch pedal feels crunchy when launching in first
>car makes clicking noises during launch in first or low gears changes (1st to 2nd)
>car makes a rattling noise when in gear + cutch in when revving
>clutch rattles in neutral unless pressed in
>clutch doesn’t slip, gear changes are still smooth
But recently this pops up every other day
>can now feel the engines rotating motion through the clutch pedal during gear changes
My guess is throw out bearing is going and possibly engine/trans trans mounts are worn causing the clicking noise

I’m just going to get a shop to do a regular clutch job this week to see if it goes away, Z33 forums insist the noises are fine if the clutch isn’t slipping though but being autistic as fuck I can’t ignore the noises

I have an 05 Civic EX and it started stuttering while accelerating accompanied with a blinking E-Light. Scanner came up with a cylinder 2 misfire, previously started dealing with some overheating and heater problems.

Am I fucked and should I start looking to get a new car?

Souds like fuel delivery or vacuum leak. Replace the fuel filter and if that doesn't work get a shop to test the fuel pressure.

Get a cigar and use as a smoke machine to test for vaccum leaks.

Probably an issue with the idle air valve. If it even has one, being an '09.

Need to seriously get the GF into a new car. Her CRX shitbox is unsafe as fuck, rusted the fuck out, and burns a quart of oil every 250-300 miles. We found the perfect car for her (Fiat 500) in the perfect color with low miles, but it has a rebuilt title. I had her mechanic look at it and he says it's fine and it's all solid and not to worry, but the rebuilt status worries me a lot and I don't want to need to fix shit all the time like I have to with her current car.

That being said, I have a sneaking suspicion that either way her CRX may wind up getting stolen and crashed at some point this month...

Fuck this. Find a job roofing, preferably with a company that handpacks and handnails all the material. This will teach you not to be a lazy bastard lol.

So I have some chips in my paint and idk what to do about it. I think it might be oxidizing a bit because they are brown underneath. Not like severe rust or anything but idk what to do about it.

It's not a great car or anything (to be frank it's a shitbox - 1990 buick century. Fuck a 3 speed auto is the least fun you can have driving a car), but it's MY shitbox and I wanna try and keep it going. Wat do

>car makes high pitched rattle at low-ish speeds
>worsens when accelerating
Could this be the exhaust?

I'm getting really tired of being worried as fuck all the time. I really depend on my car for work and I'm a poorfag.

My cars still in the shop and I don't know when I'll have a car again

I'm probably just going to get a new car soon...

You two need to make the final decision yourselves, but if it were me, I wouldn't trust any rebuilt car as a daily car. I'd personally wait for another better option if you don't see any good choices in your budget right now.

I just installed a sri into my car and now my heat takes 30 minutes to turn on and sometimes even then it doesn't. Winter is coming.

That’s my thinking too. The issue is that she needs a small car for parking and maneuverability but we can’t find anything else that is

>accelerate to 50 mph
>front end begins to shake
>at 60 mph becomes frightening
>smooths out after 70 mph

Do I need a front end alignment?

>timing chain is noisy
>the replacement cost is equal to the value of the car

The reason I don't do it myself is the lack of tools (and knowledge)

> Turbo wine loud when above 3k rpm
> I don't have a turbo

Such is life, I'm sure it's a vacume lean in the dash

I'm doing my own timing belt this week, user. I thought it would be too hard for a near beginner, but I looked up some how to videos for my model and it seems quite a bit easier than expected. If you've already researched your own car and decided this, that's fine senpai, but don't just decide it's too hard without looking into it at all if you haven't yet. Don't know what you're working with, but mine was a $700 estimate for a mechanic versus $150 plus the cost of new coolant for changing my own timing belt and water pump at the same time.

Is it possible your tires need balanced? Where I live it's only about $30 to balance all four, so if you're not sure that might be worth checking up on. With mine, it would start to shake at 55, but I didn't try going above that; I just drove at 54 mph on the highway all the way to a mechanic because the shaking made me so nervous.

Depending on where you live, it might be worth driving further to pick up a good car. If you've got the time and can swing a trip to the next nearest city, I'd check out your options there and see if you can get something good. I don't know any specific cars you'd like for her, but I'm sure you'll know it when you see it.

>03 e46
>brake pedal makes whistle sound
>sometimes it's quiet, other times it's very loud and annoying
>google problem
>it's either a cheap and simple fix of installing a new non return valve and gasket or an expensive fix of getting and installing a new brake booster
fug me

How the fuck do I keep squirrels of off my car? They keep leaving their pawprints all over it

My Volvo V40 first gen is struggeling in idle around 500rpm. Clutch is slipping. Exhaust is rusted thru and power stearing just died :( my shitbox has Seen better days. I live in yurop so car has to pass inspection after new years.

He did a head job before he did his first oil change.

The problem is that a timing chain isn't supposed to be changed so the procedure is a bit more complicated.

oh shit sorry, I didn't notice you said chain instead of belt

I love my car but its becoming increasingly hard to justify living with it on a daily basis. It rides rough, sounds like its falling apart inside, has no AC, and now 90% of the time i drive it these days is my shitty highway commute, where i cant even enjoy it for what it is.

I want to get a second car as a DD but i fear that unless i get something completely boring i will just end up driving it all the time, and my car will just sit neglected. Also, I know I could afford two cars but its not the most practical thing in my current situation.

I always thought i would drive this thing until the end of time...

I've got to drive a lot of autobahn, and my 5-speed kia sits at about 4000rpm for ~140km/h (normal right lane speed). My redline is at 6.2k, and I'm pretty worried I'm fucking shit up there.

It's a fuckhuge offroader with 180hp, would it kill them to make it a fucking 6spd

Our search radius is 100 miles at this point. Nearest big city is Boston and we’ve tried there. We’ve tried every site and dealers and even newspapers and we keep getting overpriced shit. It’s impossible to get a decent deal on a good used car in New England. Everything >5 years old is rusting badly, >10 years is either nonexistent, rusted to Swiss cheese, or literally for sale by a “I know what I got” boomer that wants $5k over bluebook on it.

Talk with her about your insecurities, but honestly, there's nothing you can do if she one day decides to break up

My car is pulsing at idle. It feels like a misfire but I am not getting any codes and it is only at idle. The coil pack in this car has always been fucky and this new routine has made me think its on its way out.

>Update

Car's been in the shop for two weeks now, they just got the parts today and I should be driving again in a day or two

>Hood still broken so will have to find a ratchet system to tie the hood down while driving..

A lot of cars do a self-test of the ABS system when you first drive off after starting the car, usually once you drive over 15mph or so - it sounds like there's a click/clunk associated with the metallic ringing sound and it could be that.

Doesn't mean that there's not damage somewhere too (I initially thought broken suspension spring when you described the sound) so I'd also check your suspension around the area that got damaged in the accident with the previous owner.

Coil packs usually aren’t too expensive, and on most cars they aren’t too bad to do. Might be worth swapping them out now, and cleaning MAF sensor and throttle body linkage while you have the hood up.

What car and how many miles?

>long distance
>uni

Cut your losses man, she's already taken miles of Chad's dick at this point. In fact, she's probably getting railed up the shitter right now

I do know my ABS wasn't running until I recently fixed one of the sensors (one of them just wasn't there), but still makes the sound after the fix so maybe it's just a sound I have to live with. I've been through 3 different mechanics for various work now, and I asked 2 of them to point out any issues they noticed to me since it's still a relatively recent purchase. I did have one mechanic suggest changing the shocks, but other than that, no comments about the suspension. I've tried looking around the damaged area before, but all seems well enough. I'll just have to look more closely. I've got some work to do this weekend, so we'll see if I can find anything weird under the car while it's lifted enough to look around.