Do any of you Veeky Forumstists actually wrench?

Like actually wrench on your cars.. not this "Hehe, I changed my own headlight bulb in my bicycle"

I bought a cheap JDM WRX, because previous owner didn't know it needed non-pleb fuel, and he melted a piston.

I'll be about $2500 into this car when it's done, and it's going to be my winter beater.

Other urls found in this thread:

miatabusa.com/
lucky7racing.net/collections/featured/products/miata-13b-rotary-mount-kit
youtu.be/csLD1MGskfI
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Yeah

Cool story.

Thank's

No problem.

Share some of your work.

Would like to do serious projects but can't on the street. Done an SVO brake conversion and a couple suspension parts on my old 5.0 but apart from some more suspension stuff I'm a bit limited.

...

no

Holy shit, how long does that 1/16" thick eyelet last with a few 100 CCA cycling through it? Got pictures of it glowing red?

>blogposting

:^)

i agree we need more corvette vs gtr and manual vs auto threads

It's not really a good piston design is it

Better than it breaking in half... at least it melted and started smoking before it took out the crank and rods.

Just wrapped up my timing belt yesterday, felt good to finally have the car back.

What is that? I don't know that engine bay.

'01 Miata

tfw have a timing chain kit laying around but to busy with other shit to do it

I always thought a 20B would be sweet in a Miata, maybe too much power... 13B should be plenty?

Getting ready to wrench for the first time soon, just got my first wrench (11mm curved made by Laser). My question is what bolts do I need to tighten/loosen when doing a CAI, cat back, and a simple tune for +30hp?

I probably should have waited, whole thing took about 3 weeks for a few reasons. Should have just waited for winter.

I would love a rotary Miata, although I think that if were to go through the trouble, I'd slap a small turbo on it too.

You can't put a rotary in a Miata without completely refabricating the subframe and transmission tunnel.

So? I'm sure you could get an adapter made to use the stock trans.

miatabusa.com/

You can get a kit here: lucky7racing.net/collections/featured/products/miata-13b-rotary-mount-kit
But it still requires a lot more work than it looks. The rotary sits a lot lower than a piston engine and the oil pan sits even lower again. There's a real risk of shearing it all out unless the whole transmission tunnel is completely refabricated.

Yeah, a bit.

Not really I am more into the detailing. I have only owned new cars and don't want to really fuck with them

Worth it.

I'd love to put a rotary in my GC8, and do a RWD conversion... might be more reliable Haha.

I tear them down pretty far, then get bored and don't put them back together.

BMW V10 would be a more sensible, reliable, and natural conversion in my opinion. But do what you like man.
youtu.be/csLD1MGskfI

Engine swap on the bronco beater again. Went form a 2.9 to an exploder 4.0. Has 3 different wiring harness in it. Its a 1990 with a 87 front clip, so all lights are patched in the 2.9 factory harness. The 4.0 harness is patched into the 2.9 dash harness and transmission harness. Sucked water in the engine, found another exploder for 200$

Besides my bronco I had to do a topend rebuild on my transam. New headgaskets, valve springs and seals. Timing cover and chain. Entire new fuel system. Was running like shit when I got it, it had stock springs with a 500 lift cam.

I've driven a BMW M5, and have seen that video, but that's huge money.

>transam
Which one? I've got an 84

I really can't understate how much work it is to refabricate a transmission tunnel for cars that only use piston engines.

A 1973, it is still a work in proges. But it is to the point that I can now drive it anytime I want.

I changed my brake pads once

Currently engine/transmission swapping an '05 WRX. Checked valve clearance and found out I need to order new buckets, luckily I was able to scavenge a few from a different set of heads that I have.

Yeah, and I work on tractors, too.

same. Feels so good to just drive it

why is flat the worst engine format

>push rods push gods
>timing is controlled by a CHAIN
>and it's connected to ONLY two parts

>somehow pushrods are ancient obsolete tech

>why is flat the worst engine format
>flat
>the worst

flat is justice

Because your automotive knowledge is based on memes.

flat engine low CoG is a meme

y-yeah

No it's not.

Curb your autism. It's an engine the length of a V4 that won't shake itself apart. That's neat.

Yeah but it's an older car so I'm not sure if it counts. Also just lol if you use the term wrench unironically.

I was doing a brake job then this happened

engine swaps? fucking amateurs get on my level... body swap on muh cummins

Replacing the engine in this bitch for the second time

Um what?

Chinks stole my driveway

see:

I've done clutches and timing belts, nothing to crazy. The only modding I do is replacing broken shot with upgraded parts.

I wanna get a project car soon and rebuild it's engine. Either a original 124 or old GM A-body.

I've done everything but mid block work and transmission related shit. But I keep putting off doing my timing belt.

So because it had high miles and he's putting used engines in it makes them bad?

I bought a bare block 3sgte the other day and bought a trans diff and rear axels today.

*wrenches behind you*

I do but only because im too cheap to pay a mechanic to do it for me.
if i had the money i would.
fuck im sick of working on cars.

Memegaskets on my scoobydoo

...

>tfw no garage
>tfw no parking staal
>tfw no tools
I use to wrench when i had a civic because it was an easy engine to work on, but trying to do anything with my last two subarus regarding the engine can be damn near impossible given my situation. i couldn't even pull the wheel bearings :(

Fine, this thread seems more lively.

I have a 1968 Ford Torino.
It's an ex-drag racing car; I bought it for $600 delivered.

No floors, and the brakes don't work.
Apparently it ran, but I'm finding that hard to believe; I cranked the thing and it made a nice "HRUNK" like an engine does when it wants to turn over but can't.
It has oil in it.
It has all the fluids except gasoline, actually.
However I pulled the carb because it was kinda suspicious lookin', and it was raining pretty hard the day it was delivered, and the hood isn't mounted to the car (the hood is another story for later)

This is what the bottom flaps/covers look like.
The intake manifold looks like it has started to rust because some water leaked through the top of the carburetor into it, but it doesn't look too awful.
I'll be stripping that tomorrow, but for today I simply want your opinion.

How awful is this?
Should I start panicking yet? I know it'll be a lot of work but I just don't want a lot of work with some extra work ground up on it for a topping, like anchovies on pizza.

Tl;dr, how fucked is my carb?

Love me some boxer pushrods. Timing driven by crank gear, no chain :^)

I can do wear items and routine maintenance but overall, i've never wrecked an engine or owned an unreliable one, and i've never found anything that would be cheaper with the parts and machine shop work it needed than it would be in good condition that wasn't a dorito engine, so I've never pulled an engine.

Fuck, I've never even touched a (car) clutch because i've never had to.

>$600
>Panic
No, you should never panic on a $600 nonrunner you bought.

It's also a fucking 60's american car. You can repair anything for nothing.

Uh, yeah?
I replaced a rubber cap last weekend.

Proof.

Am I cool enough for this wank train yet?

You wouldnt have an issue if you had the proper 2.0L or 2.2L, 2.5L a shit.

Mine didn't come in a 2.0 and the 2.2s are slooooow. No thanks, I don't have an issue anymore anyway since I used the OEM revised MLS gaskets.

Had to remove my SW20's rear crossmember to spot where my slow tranny leak was coming from. Turns out I torqued the transmission casing screws to less than 20lb-ft the last time I opened up the transmission. kek

Rebuilding this before I swap it in.

Lol i know exactly what this is. I did mine a few years back. I was expecting it to be a nightmare but it was actually pretty easy. I have skinny arms so that helped.

I just had my motor out for a bunch of things including new FM1 clutch kit, timing belt and water pump, and coolant reroute. Next spring i plan on adding some spooly gofast bits.

Hell yes, I do. Here's a 440 I built:

ok what is it and what are you putting it back into?

Before shot.

Engine swap in an El Camino.

The "fun" thing about that one is that it was a free motor form a '90s GMC and the intake would not line up; but, with a little help from a tap and die set, I had a '90s engine running a carb setup in a '70s car.

When I'm repairing it on a job that gets $4.25/hour plus a shitty tip share, I do.

And I know I can fix literally anything I'm just kinda wondering if it needs fixed.

Some of us are actual mechanics, so ya we wrench.

Spilled a little fluid? Might be a little too much dry sweep there, buddy.

fisker karma? what was wrong with it?

Perfect for a suspension test

engine dampener was shot, its basically a clutch that is bolted onto the flywheel and uses the springs to dampen the engine vibrations to the generator.

babby's first engine pull, better brag on Veeky Forums

Jesus, I thought the turbos on the FD were small. That compressor is downright a adorable.

Some ride the bus. I wrench the bus.

(This one had a DPF malfunction, for those curious)

Yeah I guess, I bought a 79 Camaro like 5 years ago for $1500 when I was 16. Clearly a good first car so I had all kinds of problems. And rust because Minnesota.

L28et from a s130, giving it twinturbos
Going into an S30.

Third engine pull, actually.

Old subby shitboxes go through engines like crazy, it's not a fuel problem

Apparently the VF22 is very sought after.

My STI has a VF23, full boost is at like 3600 rpm, it's a lot of fun, I can only imagine when I get this WRX running that it should hit boost a little quicker.

It's probably a loose nut between the steering wheel and driver seat causing that

You're right, it's a fuel and timing problem.

It melted a piston, he ran 87 in it, and the EJ20K requires 94, figure it out.

But since you're an expert, why don't you let me know why the piston melted?

I drive a newer car, I don't have a garage, I don't have a stall, and I don't have the tools. Once I move out of my apartment and actually have a place to do my monkeying around and store more than one car.. This thread makes me jealous.

Most major thing I did was replacing the spider injectors and fuel pump on a 96 Jimmy. Was not fun. Besides that I've done mostly top end stuff. Intake plenum on my first car, Voltage regulator on my S10, New fuel lines on my old hilux, most recent fix was a oil pressure switch on my XJ

i can work on older cars. new cars just have too much shit in the way to even get to anything anymore

i used to think that too until i tried it. really when you get down to it its all the same shit. just instead of like, jetting your carb or rotating your distributor to adjust fuel and timing, you have to flash maps and shit.

Have fun getting cucked by valve float.
>he can't even advance or retard his valve timing or lift