163k original miles

>163k original miles
>5 speed
>all original
>in running condition

tell me why I shouldnt buy this right now?

newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/d/1987-mazda-rx-7/6334520640.html

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=qVGy7W3YInE
youtu.be/nCLENkEQ6oY
youtu.be/QSm0oiYLfQ8
youtube.com/watch?v=7Q0x0MzvG7Y
youtube.com/watch?v=U3T4g2jnNy8
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Because it's naturally aspirated.

but its an all original

the two most important things to consider when buying a classic car are the condition of the body panels and how fucked up/complete the interior is.

mechanical shit is actually ez af to fix. getting other parts is a fucking nightmare.

>All original
Says it's a barn find with a new gas tank, and who knows what else. No doubt there's other problems with it.
I really wouldn't.

why would you want an old gas tank. as if the one replaced isn't oem.

Even if it's oem it's not all original, is it? Desu, the non-turbo FCs were slow.

>buying a 30 yr car wanting it to be "fast"

not the point desu senpai

I know a guy with a 70s (FA4) 323 wagon with a twin turbo 13B from an FD.
You can modify the FC to be faster (with a lot of work), but don't expect it to be anything but slow as it is.
FC was the peak of Mazda's aesthetics, not going to lie.

>FC was the peak of Mazda's aesthetics, not going to lie.

ya god damn right

youtube.com/watch?v=qVGy7W3YInE

Worth it for the sunroof free shell, if its got a black interior in good shape.

All original means it is going to break down. 163k isn't much at that age but it sure is for a rotary.

163,000 miles is a lot, but $2500 is literally like fuckaround money so I'd say do it. Just don't play yourself by sinking a ton of money into it if it has a whole bunch of problems. Take the risk at $2500 and if it's a crapcan then cut bait on it and sell it some weeb fag for $1500.

youtu.be/nCLENkEQ6oY
Just for you baby.

v nice. I love watching videos of cars drifting at Meihan. One day when i visit Japan i hope I have the chance to visit that track as well

If she's not on her last legs, make sure she lives a good life.

adding to myself
Honestly though, FCs are more fun if you find a more ragged out example that you don't feel bad modifying. A well-maintained stock NA car is rare and interesting, but the semi trailing arm rear, mcstrut front, and underpowered motor are pretty uninspiring.

Don't let anyone tell you otherwise:
The FC fills the same role as the 240sx, with its relative scarcity (to the sx) making for a slightly better community, shittier aftermarket, and less of a boyracer stereotype associated with it. The only real appeal of the rotary powerplant in a street car is its novelty.

>FC
>Not RX-3

>rotary with 160k miles
It won't be original for long

The RX3 wasn't that good looking except for the sharknose front end. Just my opinion.

Not op but:

How hard is it to put a whole GXL rear end in a SE/base model FC? Everything's compatible?
Is it possible to just put a GXL LSD in place of a base model's open diff?

>I want to keep the stock wheels...

>not putting an os giken 2 way clutch type diff in

why would i get another shitty oem lsd? we finna slide ninja

arent those expensive and hard to find?
i dont think i would be slinding so much where i live, unfortunately

also, does anyone know if GXL diffs are 1, 1.5 or 2 way diffs?

The GXL LSD (most call it the NA LSD as opposed to turbo) diff is a drop in swap for the open NA diff. The turbo diff, which is bigger, requires different axles which nowadays are rare as hens teeth. The NA LSD diff uses the same axles. If youre adding any serious power you want the turbo diff, or for serious power a Ronin 8.8 swap kit for an explorer 8.8. Annoyingly, those also require outer CV joints from Turbo axles, so you don't avoid having to source a set of those.

Because of the way the trailing arm rear is set up, the easiest way to swap the diff is to drop the whole rear subframe. You can do it with a single good floor Jack and a 2x4 to balance it on.

what i did when i bought my fc, I reccommend you do the same
1.ask when the fuck the engine was rebuilt.
2. ask about the oil metering pump and if its still working well, if not, ask if he premixes. If not, get the fuck out of there
3. test the compression/ how well engine is running (THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE)
4.before you drive the car, make sure to give it a cold start and see how it goes

if all of these check out, you are in massive luck like i was. good luck sister

expensive? I mean I think they are priced accordingly. its about $1500 USD for one and very much worth it. Hard to find? not at all. We have the internet mayne

my fc is 270 whp with the stock turbo lol, tell me how its slow

Its a clutch type 1 way. You don't want a kaaz unless its for a turbo diff. You don't want a two way unless youre drifting.

Turbo II LSD on a budget, Ronin 8.8 if you want to choose gear ratio, have it last, anf have tons of drop in LSD, spools etc. NA LSD if you've got the shitty stock NA 13b and youre keeping it.

as far as aftermarket diffs goes OS Giken makes the best as they don't clunk at all.

while Kaaz diff's clunks and thats annoying af esp if its your DD

Agree with this guy. Ive got an LS in mine but even the stock turbo is quick enough to be fun. There is zero point in trying to make an NA FC go fast.

Yours is turbo.
The one OP is looking at is non-turbo.

And turbo swaps are mostly not worth the trouble, better to just buy a turbo car.

I see.
Thanks, brotaries.


Also, I want to ask, what is the power limit on an NA LSD?
I think I heard it was 250-300hp.

Which is what I was saying here;

Diffs are more limited by torque. Wheel hop will also kill them quick. I broke an S5 NA diff with a 302 on 205 all-season tires, around 300 ft/lbs of torque. NA diff should be fine for a 250hp rotary, as long as you aren't launching it at 9000rpm or using sticky tires.

But figure, Mazda put a beefier diff on the turbo, so they didn't think the NA diff was up to it.

>people actually like the FC more than the FD

absolutely_disgusting.jpg

Its not really a matter of that. The FC is in a whole different price bracket. A nice non-basket case FD is upward of $20k.

The FC is one of two things: a cheaper way to get a rotary car, or a fun, cheap RWD to swap and mess with.

FD has a nice arse and side profile but the front is ugly as sin.

And both the FC and FD have delicate interiors that are more often than not a sea of broken plastic tabs. The FC's is totally 80s and the FD's totally 90s.

I like the boxy aesthetic of the FC.

Dont get me wrong, I do too. I own one and have passed on reshelling my LS1/T56 into an FD, mostly because every aftermarket part costs double what it does for the FC, but a little bit because I like the way it looks.

>LS1
>RX7
Get out.

As the few running 13bs get slowly consolidated into the cleanest of shells, V8 swaps keep the old neglected ones out of your local pick n pull.

New Zealand is the home to the rotary. A piston-swapped Rx7 is heresy down here.

Forgot link.
youtu.be/QSm0oiYLfQ8

I completely understand the sentiment. If I had more money and time to throw around I'd surely have dropped in a turbo rotary. It was less of "find an engine for my RX7" and more of a "find a shell for my LS1."

youtube.com/watch?v=7Q0x0MzvG7Y

youtube.com/watch?v=U3T4g2jnNy8

So long as you give her the heart she needs eventually so she can live bwappily ever after.

What in the name of God is this

holy shit i just came

Nice huh?

the video? sure
but that picture. holy hell.

Wish I could remember where I found it.