Well Veeky Forums look what I found. rear engine 4 cyl vw with a 3 speed. Came with 2 motors, 7 heads...

She will be alright you can replace each jug individually on these old girls. They look like this. They are actually not designed too terrible

Found a stroker kit that brings the displacement up from 1600 to 1873 and it's on the way here along with parts for a complete engine rebuilt. Now I want to see how they have the pedals hooked up and the steering. I wasn't happy with the slip in the pedals

Paint it French Lilac.

How much did that cost you?

I was thinking more of a lovely chartreuse. $800 cash. The two motors alone are worth that. Not as bad as I thought it was gonna be under here

Chartreuse is king

These are some professional pedals

Gonna need to move the seats back

This thing reminds me of that kia go cart that that one chick bought like 2 years ago
Whatever happened to her?

Is that steering wheel welded to he hub?????????

Sure fucking is

DO WANT

So after sitting here looking at it im going to turn it into a single seater. I'm going to cut the hump and the front bullshit out and reinforce it with some piping and move the steering wheel over. As it is right now your left arm hangs out while you are driving which is not where you want to be.

Seats are gone

I had a feeling it wasn't going to be something as simple as a gummed up carb after reading the kid drove around in first.

How narrow is it? Two seats would be killer. Has to be narrow as fuck as that battery is probably only 7" or so.

I was planning on stroking it out anyways. I knew it was a possibility as soon as he said he only drove it in first. It is 49 at the widest point and 43 at the thinnest
Am torn about two seats vers one atm

Here comes the torch

Cutting the hump out

Humps out I found an old joint

That's narrow. Not even a whole two feet per passenger.

Score.

It is super cramped with 2.

Removed all of the old brake lines and cables they left in the hump

dude, that hump as you call it is your VW
it is the primary structural element of the pan

I hope by cutting it out you plan on putting something more rigid in it's place

I am framing in the bottom with piping and making an X box. Thanks for the heads up though. It is so thing I couldn't imagine it being useful

Thin*

Not who you're replying to, but it worked in the Beetle since it weighed almost nothing and had no power.

Beefing up the pan is probably a good idea, given how hacked up it is... especially if you're going to beat on it.

That was my thought too after looking at it there is so much unnecessary stuff left over that they didn't bother to take out and just scabbed stuff in. I might just cut the whole floor out and build my own

its easier to get the case cut for bigger cylinders. running a non standard crank in a 1600 based engine requires more machine work. its not a bolt together solution

I have found an 1800 cc no machine cheater and I am interested in that. If I ended up cutting it I would go all the way to 2100+ because fuck it

as far as I know 1776cc is as big as you can go on a 1500-1600cc engine case
it is super easy to just drop a 2110- 2275cc bus engine in it

Aircooled.net has the build you should check it out. They say you can do it for less than a grand. I would rather not spend 4k on a 2k+ cc long block

whole lotta info there and had too much whiskey to go through it now.

I did see though that they run synthetic
synthetic oil is hotly debated locally among air cooled guys, seeing as oil is part of the engines cooling system, does synthetic work?

sure synthetic oil performs better in extremes of temperature over conventional oil, but does synthetic conduct heat as well as conventional oil? Air cooled engines need a good conductor to pull heat from the engine and disburse it the doghouse. A lota guys think that synthetic performs better because it doesn't absorb and of course release the heat from the engine as much as conventional oil.

I really don't know but oil changes with these engines are easy enough that I would rather run conventional and change it more often than chance it with synthetic and maybe get a few more months out of the oil

>A lota guys think that synthetic performs better because it doesn't absorb
like I said ... too much whiskey
synthetic doesn't perform because it doesn't absorb heat like conventional oil

Updates op?

Back for day 2 after looking around online last night I am starting to find the parts I need. I also decided to cut the floor and take the side panels off as I have already found 2 frame cracks that need to be repaired and now is the best time to do it.

Wtf is that exhaust from??

Sorry for the late up date I was going over the frame and finding all the lovely suprises that come with these. Like pic related frame welds. Everyone knows you only weld what you can see.

Lol it is the exhaust for the motor here is a pic

Oh right, looks weird off the car.

I looks weird even when it is on the car.

Floor is out you can see the half-assed torch job they did. They would of been better off leaving the original floor in. I'm going to start grinding the side panels off now so I can inspect the frame underneath.

What base paint are you thinking of doing?

I am divided on to either paint it blue or turn it into a mad max buggy
Also "are gorilla shit welds terrible" exclusive story at 10

They put 4 solid beads down each side it is talking too long so I am just going to torch them off

Ahhh

I mean as a base coat/rust inhibitor.

I dunno any suggestions

POR15

youtu.be/uuDcvwEIkPI

Cool I'll check it out thanks.

All the metal is off of the drivers side. I found awesome presents such as this

I've seen less globs in my fruity pebbles

Por15 is godtier. A half gallon will coat that entire car in two costs, and have some left over. Shit is amazing. Make sure to get the zinc prep

Your doing a yeoman's job op, keep it up

Ikr
Sounds fantastic I'll get some I was kind of at it a loss for what to put as the base
Thanks man I have always wanted and I found this one for a steal

Cleaned all of the old weld down to the metal there are 2 frame cracks and a bunch of holes that need to be filled

Almost done with the passengers side then we will cut out the rest of the floor and continue flapwheeling the frame

Right side done time to pull the rest of the interior now that it is easier to get at

Next thing to come out. It is rotted in places and scabed in others so I am just going to make one from scratch

Bottom is out time to clean up the torch marks

Almost done cleaning up the front but it is starting to get dark

Naked sexy ladies in your area

I was going to get wheel spacers but I think I am going to cut This support out and reroute it now that it is all torn apart should give me about 4 more inches of wheel clearance

defs mad max it.

Just ordered some por15 in black to do the frame this shit is amazing from what I have read. Done for tonight as I am out of grinding wheels and I bought all my local screwvalue had. I'm going to change the steering from the original vw to a rack and pinion that can be centered on the car pic related. this will allow me to mount the seat in the middle and turn it into a single seater. While not worrying about frame strikes on the tie rods

Protip, Easy-Go steering rack. very close ratio, and cheap as hell. also centered.
But how are you gonna pick up chicks in a single seater?

seeing as you are going all out there are all sorts of adjusters you can get for your torsion tubes.

a lot of guys use these to slam their bugs but they can just as easily be welded in to switch from normal to lifted

they exist for the back to

F....friend?

Thanks but I already ordered one it was only 79 bucks.

Awesome sand rail man. There are no dunes by me so I wanted to go the buggy route

meh. I still prefer the close ratio boxes for such a thing. What is the ratio of the box you got?

Tankgirl?

8:1 due to me driving it in mud and dirt vice sand

I feels ya. Sand is a few hours away, and I can't street it here. I have super super shitty wheels and tires on it to occasionally cruise the hood and do some third gear pulls and show off the mighty power of a dual carbed 1915, but it's only 49 seconds of fun really.

Glamis season is almost upon us though, so that's nice.

Growing up we had a whole family of veedubs. 2280ish, with fuel injection is about the best thing you could ever do to a vw. 2332 is killer power, and if you turbo it it's fuck you fast, but 2332 leaves pretty thin walls. Low 2 liter is still lots of power, but not really ducking with longevity.

I was looking at the 1800-1900 range for a mix of power and engine life. How much does your rail weigh? The 1915 make enough for it?

1915 with a close ratio transmission. Dual dellerto carbs. Weighs roughly 800 pounds with motor and trans. Dude I got it from had the engine tuned to runs on race gas/premium mix. He said it makes roughly 150hp, I think it may be a high number, but idk for sure.

Butt dyno says that shits quick, but no speedo. That close ratio is fun, and being mid engine makes it stick to the dunes.

Updated shitty nighttime pic just for you.

awesome man. I am still new to the scene I didn't realize there was this huge of an aftermarket for them it's almost overwhelming. is your engine modified from a 1600 or is it an aftermarket block? I like the color btw

Far as I know it's the stock 1600 punched out to 1915. The aftermarket is crazy huge, but more people are turning away from vw for sandrail. It's gotten to the point that a honda motor from a junkyard car is cheap enough to not justify high dollar vw motors.

I'll probably do the same one day when this one dies, but I'll always have a soft spot for the simplicity of a leaky aircool d engine.

I'm not sure why the original paint was, but I've found this Home Depot special that matches almost 100% perfect. Bonus pic of the inside of my toyhauler.

Also, I'm going to bed, congrats on your new toy, and please keep up the pics. It's nice seeing an actual awesome project instead of shitty bench racing threads.

I can see that looking at some of those 2k+ long blocks get up to 4 grand plus all the other stuff you need it's nuts. do you know what steering ratio you have by chance I have seen a big debate ranging anywhere from 6:1 all the way to 12:1

thanks man take it easy

Last post since I dot the wanna leave you hangin. Idk the steering ratio.i have a gear one steering box, but I feel like that is the kind of debate that's just so far convoluted I really can't care about it.

Op here on my way to the store to pick up more grinding wheels and flap disks saw this last night while I was staring at it. Look at the middle side support heights In the pic. Good thing I was planning on cutting them out anyways. I'll be back in about 3 hours or so.

Love this thread, OP. So glad to see something on this board other than arguing about shitboxes, retarded ban evaders using tired memes to troll, and hurr durr ur country sucks shitflinging.

just love reading a dude building a dune buggy. it is my dream to do so, but doing everything from scrap.
i even rebuild one in 3D - some copy pasta from the GTAV buggy. (picrelated)
I must say a big congratulation for the work already done and the courage you take to make this. (clapclap)
Be really carefull to the alignment of the wheels, i heard this can mess up real quick when you go fast.
Can't wait to see how this will finish :)

Yeah, good build threads like this are rare.
Op, where are you from, and what do you plan to do with that buggy?

Regular seat for you + jump seat for occasional passenger

Op hereThanks it has been a blast so far I can't wait to get it done. I had hoped this could be interesting I always liked seeing projects as they progress, so I figured other people might too.

I'm from the Midwest, I'm mainly going to use it on fields and on some of the trails around here. I was planning on building a track for it in my field. I have 100 acres so it should work out.

Not a bad idea I will look into it.

Sorry for the lack of updates I am on my way back home now my cousin wanted me to stop over and look at his boat pic related and give me some parts drawers since he is rich as fuck

What state?

Here are some grinding and torching pics from last night

Here is a torch one

Is there going to be anything left of it?

Back home going to start cutting out those supports here is the metal I have removed so far

Nice thread op.
I love that you're just cutting out everything that's not a badass buggy and going from there.
You should definitely consider a madmax/roadkill style look to this.
Never wash it

Pro tip for POR15.

Transfer it to another container, and avoid getting it on the lip. It's like glue.

Don't use screw in lids, you won't get it loose if any gets on the threads.

Don't get it in your hands, it does not come off

Use cheap foam brushes. Throw them out regularly.

Paint it right over rust, just flake off the loose shit.

It sticks better to rust than bare metal, so scuff it up, piss on it, get it rusted.

It fades under UV, so I recommend a top coat. Use self etching primer

It's decently heat resistant, so you can paint the block, an probably the exhaust too.

only the stuff you absolutely need.
yeah I think it has been unnaimous for a mad max theme I just need to come up with the design. I personally think the bull bar gives a lot to the look so I want to go with a crazy aggressive one maybe something like pic related.
appreciate the tips I will keep it in mind I was going to order it from amazon tomorrow and idea about how much I would need to do 2 coats on the frame?

I split a quart between my friend and I, we each painted our subframes, and gastanks. Had about a quarter left. It goes a long way. You can always order more.

So far I've used a quart to paint 3 blocks, an engine bay, another subframe, some random bits, and have about half left still.

Start with one for now. It goes bad. Well, it just forms a solid later in top when exposed to air.

Cool thanks for the info

Alright day 3. Today I need to gut the crooked supports in the front and finish cutting out the useless shit in the back out. As well as measure all of my piping so I can go tomorrow morning to pic up the replacement piping and the new lengths for the floor structure. Here is the frame as it sits right now.