/CCG/ - Classic Car General

sorry apparently I have terrible reading comprehension. whats that good ol 22r stuck in?

thank you, this is the good side, the other has a big dent in the rear quarter. only a little bit of rust on the bottom of s few of the doors and the drivers side floor
thats ok,the wonderful thing about SBC's is they are cheap and everywhere. those Hurst sifter are pretty nifty

77 Celica.

i committed the cardinal sin of buying somebody elses project. now i'm trying to unfuck all the bullshit the last guy did.

had the same problem with this car it was lowered improperly in a way which made it have zero front suspension movement and half the wiring was just gone

digg it

>lowered improperly in a way which made it have zero front suspension movement and half the wiring was just gone

oh shit, thats the one of the retard tier mods i have to unfuck. the PO spent 400$ on front coilovers but then proceeded to just chop the back springs with a pair of bolt cutters. i got springs coming so i can fix my bottoming out issues.

My 1971 Torino, not a GT but it has a 351 Cleveland. I installed a dual exhaust and replaced hoses and whatnot, everything else is factory

that sucks. Most of them take out few leaf springs, that fucks everything.
Other crap people do is converting to irs because they're too inteligent.

Two more days until I get to see her again and then drive it ten hours to Nashville.

For better or worse I did it, I now own a Citroën Traction Avant

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Behold the mighty 1.9L 4 cylinder, makes an entire 54hp. And that wonderful 6 volt battery.

Are these modern classics now? They're 30 years old and were the last BMWs with the classic twin headlight look.

those seats are dope

>Are these modern classics now?
yeah, they are.

you could junkyard build that engine out ezpz. the 351 is versatile af.

get an aftermarket carb and fuck around.

>Torino
My fellow African American gentleman, you have excellent taste in automobiles.

well played

Beautiful, how much did she run you and even more importantly does she run?

What will you name her?

>yeah, they are.
Are they also appreciating? I'm seeing prices fluctuate heavily.

>I'm seeing prices fluctuate heavily.

because there are still parts available.

nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/68-cadillac/6305257199.html
>I will derby this if it doesn't sell.
this fuckin faggot is trying to intimidate me into to buying this so I can save it from the fucking derby ree

I want the outright banning of any car over 20 years old from demolition derbies.

Sounds like someone from Rutland. Probably needs money for Heroin.

Blew a tire in the 67, trans wont go into 3rd, and coworker said he saw my rear end move everytime i took off... feels bad man... and it rained on top of all that and i still havent fixed the leaks!

Any ideas if using caulk around the windshield will stop water from getting in?

Also, what are the chances of it being something minor like a vacume leak or low fluid for a th350 not going into 3rd? Does 1, 2, and R just fine.

lel I had no Idea it was in like the middle of fucking vermont. I don't know is with these faggots in mass and vermont that post shit to our craigslist here. One fucking guy has a toyota that can only be sold to someone in vermont but it's on our NH craigslist

Total noob here. I'd like to get into the classic car game but know jack shit about cars overall. Very willing to learn and have been lurking. Any introductory advice for someone in my position?

Buy GM service manuals and read them, thats a great way to learn.

If you are an American try to buy domestic classics, they are much cheaper and have a great aftermarket. Try to get a car down south or innadesert, rust is a pain in the ass and rust free cars are easier to work on.
V8's are a great platform to learn on in my opinion, but they are not for everyone
"Resto modding" and "Pro" anything are automotive heresy and an immediate red flag for any buyer

Dont buy a third gen f body unless its a GTA

Would it be unwise to get an inexpensive project car to work on while I learn? Something tangible that I can work on while learning?

Where are you and what do you want to do with the car?

Depends on the car, sometimes a car is cheap for a reason.
Its deffinetly an option, just dont expect the car to be a DD or anything there is the chance might just buy a money sink or get scammed by the guy who's selling it to you

Rust is the enemy. Mechanical work is always easier. An I6 is super easy to work on. Manual everything is super easy. 4 doors are always cheaper. Youll always have a to do list no matter how much you do.

It sucks owning a classic, but so worth the looks, feeling, and being able to accomplish stuff.

USA, currently in Iowa but may be moving out of state soon.

I'd like it to be something to drive and enjoy, maybe bring to shows. I've got a particular interest in stuff from the 30s-40s and just want to bring something old back to life.

nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/ford-bird/6309878196.html

rip, poor thing

quadcities.craigslist.org/cto/d/1951-ford-2-door-project-sell/6291594499.html

Here's an example of the kind of stuff I've been looking at.

>Dont buy a third gen f body unless its a GTA

I painted my headers, still dunno if I'm digging it yet or not. It'll probably look pretty cool with the Pontiac blue on my block.

Have you ever looked into chieftains
Nice mate, whenever i see yours I get excited for my own. Did you make sure to use Corporate blue for your block?

Fuck, I responded to you Trans am buddy in the next sentence.

Lole

4 doors aren't appreciably cheaper in the long run famalam. Might as well put the dosh down now and get better return on your investment

I need /ccg/'s opinion on the situation im in. I have a 1989 Camaro, and have had it as a project for 5 or so years. But as i pulled the engine for the first time, i discovered that the frame is rusted right out. Ive got a couple repair places coming to give me an estimate to fix it, and one of them offered to trade me for a 1986 shell they have. Should i try to revive the car, or should i give in and trade whats left of it for a new project

>buying classic cars as an investment
>not hoarding them until you die

What's this crap about doors?

Thanks dude! It's either corporate blue or more metallic color. I requested corporate blue but hopefully the dude building the motor got the right paint. I can't wait until I can install that thing into my car, It's been so long since I've driven it haha. Also I saved up a bit more money so I bought some stuff to make it a little more reliable as a DD. We got a bigger tranny cooler, Aftermarket gauges, a new TH 350, brand new tranny lines to replace my hacked up half rubber lines, and probably going to install some braided hose for any non metal fuel lines.

4 doors might be initially cheaper but time and parts are generally going to cost the same. But in the end a 2 door will sell for more.

Do you like your car? If you do, do what it takes to fix it. I'm kinda stubborn about letting go of my cars and even if my frame was rusted I'd do whatever I could to save it

I had a 53, that thing is way over priced. If its original running gear and all, expect max speed to be 55-60.

What kind of paint did you use?

VHT High temp header paint, It's pretty expensive. Also it runs worse than any spray paint I've ever used so keep that in mind!

noice

its been forev since ive been here but ive got this hot little pony

72 mach 1, 302 and c4, all original

whats been going on /ccg/ what have i MISSED

Are those radial white walls? If so, what size/type white wall and tire?

It clearly states that it doesn't have the original running gear. I also wouldn't call you an expert on early Ford pricing.

RUN AWAY! There are so many warning signs that I'm going to write about it in detail when I get home.

Trying to get attention because nobody pays attention because it's fucking Vermont.

Also dat no sales tax. I lived in VT for ten years and always had better luck finding classics in NH than in Vermont

What if I just prefer 4 doors?

>Flemington, NJ

Did you go to Saturday's Classic Car Show? If so, you probably saw me.

Trying to find a 1976/1977 Plymouth Gran Fury for my next project. Do you have any idea how hard it is to find these cars/

Oops, Wrong year posted.

I'd recognized that stang anywhere! nice to see my buddys on Veeky Forums

Then go for it senpai.

What I wouldn't do own one of these right now. Seems like to close I can the further it is.

Well considering almost every customline is cheap, and i sold my running a driving one that was mostly rust free for 2600....

I didnt look too closely at the ad, just the pics. Early 50s fords just arent all that valuable. Ive seen fully restored ones with modern drive trains only sell for 12k.

Sorry bud but that isn't the same generation as yours. The 49-51 fords are MUCH more desirable than the 52-54s

Mirin

Clean ones fetch more money but the price isn't going to go up long term, way too many of them out there (except M5s)

You have to pull the glass and get a new seal, caulk (well urethane is what you should really use to do a half ass job) is just going to make a mess

Not worth it anymore, I think the prices will return to planet earth as this current bubble pops. I thought about trying to find a beat one to restore but I'm happy enough with my E24.

spotted this thing today

Vroom vroom (slowly)

fuck yea
fiat or bertone?

bertone

classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1969/pontiac/gto/100912927
OK, who the hell sells a 69 GTO with a 455 for $8,000???

someone please help me find old bmws that aren't rust or boomer specials for 10k+

I would suggest a complete transmission flush and new atf. If that doesnt fix it,its probably the transmission itself.
>V8's are a great
I love my AMC 360,its an underappreciated american V8

>1988 AW11 SC

how do i get pic related looking like new again, but also so it won't rust like a cunt in a months time.

>getting car roadworthied
>exhaust too loud
>get muffler made up to pass roadworthy
>will put this one back on after it passes the roadworthy
>don't want it looking like a pos

sorted. ignore.

I can't wait to get my Town Car back. While it was getting the body work done, the AC apparently sprung a leak... But at this point I just want to drive it again. I'll post pics when I get the chance to take some, I'm pretty happy with what I paid. I'm fairly friendly with my mechanic, we agreed on $600 for fixing this horrible dent on one fender and repainting the fender and door. He started on the wrong fender (also dented)... So he ended up doing both fenders, painting both fenders and rear doors, and repainting my bumper because he said it was ugly... For $700. Great dude. Nice to know someone who isn't trying to rip me the fuck off

>bmw
>boomer special
More like the cafe hipster special. Idk much about bmw, but there is a nice kidney grille era (mid 80s) beemer around here in Waco, probably still for sale since the guy is asking nearly 6k or thereabouts. Cream coloured coupe

Also, long time no post... Since I can't drive the lincoln I'm going ham on my truck getting it comfy... Just recently installed this vintage AM/FM/CB radio, broke out the woodworking tools for the faceplate. Took out the seat to put in a low profile subwoofer. Made a custom bracket to fit two 4x6 speakers in the original central dash speaker location. Wired up an FM modulator for aux input... Now I'm done under the dash I can finally charge up the AC. 10% here and there and this truck is basically where I want it... Until time for big upgrades like suspension overhaul and maybe some engine work.

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In reference to the ad here >comes with a 302
Odds are, motor isn't installed.

The grille and surrounds are bent, multicolored, and rusty. It looks like its been in an accident and shoddily repaired. Bondo and patchwork is visible, the door handles are missing, the floor was cut for their weird seats; looks like '70s GM, and that indicates that the thing is a mess of hacks.

Supposed to be a temporary fix until i can save up

Im hoping that or its a vacume leak/kick back linkage since it was originally a powerglide.

Its a shame, 1, 2 and R are so smooth, but it just wont upshift after that. Currently having a shop look at it while they get me a new tire.

>French mini truck

Jesus fuck guys, 91 replies and page 9

it's my fault, I replied to the thread

Trying to get my choke working. At first it was seized up so I oiled it and gave the seized part(rod with red dot) a bit of prying. Now the choke feels loose, like there's nothing holding it back from closing while driving. Should it be that loose? Also pulling the throttle all the way doesn't move the choke, isn't it supposed to?

Yet again im an idiot. Transmission shop says the 67 shifts into all gears just fine. I hear a big drop from 1-2, but barely hear anything for 2-3. And even though its 1:1, it seems like the engine is at pretty high rpms at 40-50mph... ive had 3 on the trees before, but never an auto 3spd, is this normal? I assume it still has its highway gearing since its slow.

Ive had friends with th350 trucks and they handled 70+mph just fine, so i guess ill just have to see how it handles the highway.

Also i got a door mirror in since it was missing.. anyone ever replace one of these things? 3 screws, a little bracket, and some rubber? I feel like this requires more... especially for how big of holes are in the door.

Woops. Sorry about that double post thread. I just could not find it.

Doing some shitty fabrication

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