What problems does it have?

- no cup holder
- snap oversteer only on non-facelift (stay away)
- not a lot of space
- hose of hell
- some spots tend to rust
- targa seals always leak
- as on every car, pop ups break at some point
- it has been recently 'discovered' and they are getting very expensive now compared to the old prices
- almost always riced to some degree

but it has just as many upsides at least.

let me explain the snap oversteer meme for you.
>mr2 w1 released
>has snap oversteer problems
>w2 released
>still has a tiny bit of a snap oversteer problem
>actually handles mostly great for a mr car
>facelift time (not sure which one fixed it, i think first or second)
>snap oversteer not actually a fault of the car anymore, just a mr thing
>RCR makes a video about it
>almost 15 minutes of talking about snap oversteer bla bla because it's an old model (and because he probably didnt research enough about the facelifts)
>mr2 in initial d loses a race because it spins out after landing on a few leaves after drifting down a hill for half an hour

it's a great handling car, you just need to be aware of the fact that you are not driving a ff shitbox

CRAZY FOR LOVE
CRAZY FOR LOVE
CRAZY FOR LOVE

>If you take car of the car

why would people use research to form opinions when it's easier to meme snap oversteer?

ANYTIME ANYWHERE

Alright bois. I have a fetish for the SW20 Turbo. It is perfect in ABSOLUTELY EVERY WAY in my eyes.

I want to buy one for a first car, but clean turbo variants are incredibly rare. There is a singular turbo within like 600 miles of me, and it is listed for $9k. It's a '93, had the engine rebuild, tranny rebuilt, E153-735 transmission, everything. Paint is kind of fucked, even for $9k.

Because of how expensive they are (no, I will not consider a cheaper 5S version), I am strongly considering a ZZW30.

They are much slower and pretty ugly compared to the SW20. Installing a turbo would be nothing; I could do it in a day. The main issue for me is how it looks.

I would be swapping the convertible top to a hard top, buying a TRD lip, and obviously doing the engine work to make it reasonably fast. Speed isn't an issue, looks are. I want it to actually look good. What else can I do to it to make it look not shit?

(Alternatively, I could just buy a fucking Boxster from the same era and just kill myself)

Also, does anyone know what bodykit this car has?

youtube.com/watch?v=3bGtDcEjF80

you sound like 80% of kids that don't actually have a license but think that from watching some youtube videos they know all about working on cars. start with a shitbox, at some point you'll regret thinking about ricing an almost-oldtimer to death. are "oldtimers" even a thing outside of germany?

SATAN PLS

I know how to work on cars. I have rebuilt several engines before, and I exclusively work on my own car. I also took 3 years of automotive in highschool.

CRAZY FOR LOVE

Someone is pretending to be me. Wew

What lip is this? It makes the car look so much better.

Funnily enough, that just reminds me of a 996.1 GT3 front bumper which is a xommon mod for Boxsters.

I love mine, so I think their good, but then again I haven't owned any sports cars before this one, and the only other performance car I've driven was a convertible fox mustang, it's better than that I can ensure you, and I sure do have fun ripping around town in mine.

common*, guess that's what I get for being a filthy phoneposter

Looks very nice, shiny mr2s are just a million times better looking than all the dull ones that never enjoyed a proper wash in their lifetime.

mr2 turbos are fine but they are old performance cars, even though they're toyotas they'll be a pain if you don't want to work on your own car.

Never mind, I found it.

FYI, it is the Topsecret body kit. Honestly the best body kit I've ever seen for any car.

Godamn that is sexy, good job on not letting her shit away that clearcoat. My friend has a JDM import SW20 turbo with the full coupe top (no targa) and it's really nice, but is faded as fuck. Even a good wax and polish can't save it's drab looking paint after the clearcoat is gone, but it's red so it's not surprising. Red is always the colour that fares the worst over time.

Yours looks tight though. Got any pics of the rear? I wanna see that nice spoiler you have on it. Could do with some better wheels imo, but I don't like Jap cars with heaps of spokes on the wheels, I'm just austistic like that. Would look great with some nice bronze 6 spokes on it IMO.

as a previous owner of a 1991 Turbo hardtop, do not expect this car to be a superhero. it looks good. it drives okay. it's "quick." the engine bay is a shitfest of vacuum lines. the coolant capacity is something like 14-15 liters, and it takes forever to warm up and cool down. the turbo is jammed up against the firewall along with all its oil lines. the oil filter is mounted upside-down just above the turbo manifold, and you will spill oil on it. it turns ~3500 rpm at 70mph in 5th. it takes 93 RM2 minimum, and you will get ~20mpg if you're lucky. the distributor seals, cam seals, and valve covers like to leak. prepare to remove the intake manifold to remove the valve cover. the power window regulators and popup motors will give up the ghost. reverse is unsynchronized and you will grind it almost every time. expect shot wheel bearings, blown struts, and sagging springs. be prepared to replace every suspension bushing. expect to replace the ATA intercooler with a WTA one unless you like heatsoaking in the middle of winter. own an engine hoist.

i don't recommend the SW20. it's a pain in the ass. i'm not gonna tell you it has no merits, as it's a neat driving experience, but unless you absolutely cannot live without one, there are better cars.

I've seen you in Veeky Forums. Are you running the stock wheel size? You can fit 16s on that car easily, 17s if you want to push it.

You should also invest in TRD springs. They make a huge difference.

If I remember right, your W20 is a non turbo. Do you plan on doing the turbo swap? It's pretty cheap to get the required parts, like $2.5k max. I highly recommend the turbo SW.

yeah like the mk3 mr2

Pretty much this, OP.

On all models anyway snap oversteer only becomes a problem when you start braking into corners. The way to avoid it is to know the corner you're coming up to and adjust your speed on the incoming straight, then ride around the corner at the speed you feel comfortable taking it. You do this and don't brake through the corner and you'll be fine, it's just about feeling out how the car behaves Good thing though (and the one thing RCR actually got right) is that with all the weight on the rear wheels you can really power out of the corners. I have trouble keeping up with my mate in his SW20 turbo on the windies in my R33 GTST, it's a fucking demon in the corners.

It is generally a meme. Snap oversteer comes from 2 factors.
>Wheelbase:track width ratio.
The problem arises from the fact that the steering wheels are really close the driving wheels(most commonly known as back and front). The thing is every correction you make with the steering wheel the more quickly and aggresively the car will react in the back. That's why you don't see Gokarts get really slidey comfortably. The moment that back gets loose you need make extremely exact corrections.
>Center of mass
Most of the weight of the car is in the back, meaning less weight on the steering tires, meaning less overall control. Paired up with the fact that the rear of the car becomes the heavy part of a pendulum, it has the same effect as throwing a hammer and expecting it to fall handle side first.

But it's a lot less common than the memes would lead you to.

As someone who's been to my mechanic while he was working on another client's MR layout MG TF, that fuck it's made by Toyota.

It may be a MR layout, but at least it wasn't designed by the Brits.

It seems like no one cares about the newer 2000+ mr2 models why is that?
Also why is the 5sfe model so bad

Muh dick, that's a good looking car.

I want a zzsw30 more and more every day. They better not skyrocket within the next year before I can save up enough to buy one.

I got the wheels that I thought looked the best that I could afford, the stock rims were not in the best shape and were missing all their hubcaps. Right now everything is kinda budget on this car because I'm still in college, I wanted something I could mess with on the weekends but still get me to school and this car was well taken care of for the most part by the previous owners. I want to do a turbo engine swap eventually but probably not until I'm done with school.

Don't be a shit driver and you'll be fine

my friend drove one through to 340,000 miles, then parked it. Nothings wrong with it, hes just scared to put any more miles without enough money to rebuild it

...

Everything here. I daily an SW and unless you're taking hard corners, I'm talking jacknife motherfuckers, you're not going to be able to enjoy it. I completely understand why they're so cheap now. If you don't have the roads, there is zero point. It's a million times better on the outside than the inside.

The most perfect post of what it's like to own one of these. Someone screenshot this for the 13 year olds of the future.

This. Don't do it OP

Yeah, that spoiler is fucking great looking, 10/10 good choice. I'm usually not a fan of spoilers on MR2s overall but I'd actually pay for that.

The wheels don't look terrible, they're just not my style. Thank you for keeping to 16" and not being a mememachine with 17" or 18" grinders. You'll have fun with the turbo swap if you ever do it, these cars are amazing with turbos. It makes a peppy little engine really start ripping and tearing, it's great.

I never used to like 3rd gens, but I've warmed up to them a lot recently, particularly with aftermarket hardtops. It's the same deal as with NA Miatas, I just think they look so much nicer with a hardtop.

That's a stock '91 spec spoiler m8. They are on essentially every SW20 from the factory. Granted, the SW20 looks incomplete without a wing.

Since this appears to be a Mr. 2 thread hows the price on this thing? knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1991-toyota-mr2/6318233044.html
Can I kike him down much? I know diddly squat on MR2 values.

worth maybe 2500.

Man, I got mine for much less than that, mine cost me 3800$ While only having 115k miles and in better condition than that one, see if you can talk down a bunch if not I wouldn't

>non-turbo
>'91 MY
>fucked drivers seat
>aftermarket shift knob
>missing spare
>aftermarket intake
>side trim painted white
>slight paint damage
>something weird going on with lip
>aftermarket head unit
>156k miles
>missing OEM floormats
>some weird plastidip shit or some sort of weird optical illusion by his gauge cluster
>aftermarket sound system (or at least subs, as shown behind the passenger seat)

I'd say you can get it for $4k (if you show up with cash). Granted, I know more about Turbo variants, but $4k-$4.5k would be a safe offer (if the owner isn't a I KNO WUH I GAWT idiot)

By the way, the spare is a major component of the weight distribution. Otherwise, I wouldn't even mention it being missing.

If he has the OEM parts, you likely would get $4.5k best case scenario.

If you do go for it, be sure to ask if he has the t-tops and bags for them.

Also, as a side note, he appears to have the storage cubby out of a turbo SW. I wonder where he got that from.

I loved mine.
leaky T-tops
There was a hole between my the left wheel well and where the drivers feet were and water somehow got into my feet sometimes.
My intermediate pipe at some point started corroding until it snapped off so I was running an open pipe for a bit.
Oh, it's also much louder inside the car than outside.
Trunk was more spacious than you think it would be.
Overall a great car if you maintained it right. Mine wasn't but boy was it a joy to drive.

T. owned a 93 NA T-top
Had the same 5SFE as the Camry we had at the time.

i wish people would stop making threads about this and just search the archive
fpbp

but it allready looks good?

get it its a fantastically fun daily and race car.
Get rid of precats, install coils, light wheels and grippy tyres and you'll btfo almost everything in twistes.
not to mention its surprisingly fast in a drag beating almost everything but M bimmers

>tfw people are slowly realizing zzw30 is best sportscar out of MR2's
>tfw new aftermarket equipment makers are popping up here and there usually focusing on performance parts
>tfw new japanese sportscars are returning to the scene

as someone who really wanted it but got turd gen instead and hangs out with a gang of sw20's

>leaky t tops
>lots have really bad paint
>cars old enough that many components need replacement
>drinks oil

Overall the car is great, its in a small group of "the best handling cars for less than buying an elise". If someone says "lmao snapovermeme avoid this car lmao" they're a busrider. Sure it happens but you choose to let it happen. And what kind of pussy ass bitch would walk away from a car because its dangerous?

Honestly its better than a miata because I keep hearing and seeing people who get a miata, get an sw20 and never go back to miata, or in the case of my friend who got tboned in his sw20 got the nicest fucking NA miata I've seen, sold it a week later and got a sw20 turbo.
That says a lot about this car.

How bad is the snap oversteer on the AW11 MR2? I'll be picking one up soon. It'll be my first RWD car. Also, where should i load weight on it if I have to drive in the winter?

>HURRR snap oversteer DURRR
Anyone saying this has never driven a MR2. I absolutely guarantee it. You watched RCR's videos and BOOOM your comment on snap oversteer just joined the shit list of worthless comments on the bullshit snap oversteer comments on Veeky Forums. It's all sad, very sad indeed.

Sure the possibility for snap oversteer is there but it still takes a combination of at least two of the following to happen: 25 year old suspension that is fucked in some way, shitty tires and the driver doing something retarded. The last one is always involved and the primary reason for it and the first two points can be easily fixed for good. Seriously with lowering springs or updated roll bar the car has perfectly balanced handling and if you ever manage to get into slide they are very controllable.

If you want some actual nitpicks and minor problems here are some that you may encounter:
Door-sills and the lower parts of doors themselves are prone to rust.
People talk about leaky T-tops and dashboard rattle, I have never had the former but latter is a thing in certain conditions.
Brake calipers can seize up sometimes especially the rear ones.
Car is very sensitive to uneven tire pressure (left and right) especially on the front axle.
"hose from hell" may be a thing on the turbo models.
Be prepared to spend some time and money to tune out the power understeer if you have 93+ suspension on N/A MR2

t. someone who has owned a 1993 N/A MR2 for 5 years.

wouldn't worry about it. Doesn't happy in daily hoon unless you're a tard.
I was worried about it on my mk3 to the degree of taking every corner 2 gears lower and staying on power
but it doesn't happen much outside track/spirited driving in rain/fast accelarations out of stop in rain
>>HURRR snap oversteer DURRR
>Anyone saying this has never driven a MR2.
this, out of all the MR2 owners I hang out with only one has had snap oversteer from leaving gas station in pouring rain

I wish they made more of the beams mr2's. What a nice engine.

>NA

hmmm

tell him to fuck off with mr2 turbo prices for a n/a
it's in good condition but who even wants one of those when you can get a 3rd gen that handles better and is faster in a straight line for the same price or less

you're not totally wrong but

> lowering springs on a low-budget strut suspension
> perfectly balanced

nah nigga. lowering a mr2 fucks up it's camber curves even more. not gonna make it SNAP all the time or anything, but it doesn't improve the handling at all

>- as on every car, pop ups break at some point
excuse me, but that's not true

If you are lowering the car less an inch or less, you can get away without adversely affecting the handling of the car.

Naw not at all.

I bought my frist one for 2500 last year and another for 2700 his year.

They're inexpensive. Save more and swap a 2Z + 6MT.