Worst car advice you've ever heard/gotten

You got any actual evidence to back up this bullshit?

Idling doesn't really warm up an engine though and definitely not the transmission. You're supposed to idle it for a couple minutes then drive gingerly until she's up to temp.

Up in northern Canada some the logging/oil trucks and equipment need to run 24 hours.

No, driving with low rev warms the engine, idling at start up is just plain stupid. Idling to cool down however is sometimes necessary

My car takes almost 6 minutes to warm up from idle.

If I drive it down the street a few blocks its warm in less than 3.

Just don't drive like a maniac for a few minutes and you'll be fine.

Simple. When your engine block is cold all your clearences are Tighter than they already are. Also when your oil is cold it is thicker and wont be able to work as well in the thin spaces it needs to untill it warms up to. Your piston rings see the most damage upon cold starts. When every thing heats up and heat sinks for a bit, it expands. Why do you think they tell you to drive cars with 0 miles on them easy for the break in period ? Its because the motor is so new and un-used that its clearences are Alot tighter and it will run hotter because of it.

>your engine is supposed to be that hot

Its also not like we all drive high end race cars that need to be warmed up and cooled, so for 90% of people out there this advice will suffice

we are not talking about general knowledge, but warm up through idling vs warm up by driving with low rev

This used to be the case back when engines were more finnicky with carburetors/mechanical injection, less effective/precise valves, heavier oil and lower compression and oil pressure.

A modern engine in good shape with the right oil for the temperature takes no harm from driving "normally" when cold

By the end of the day No matter what, idling a motor to operating temp is less wear on the internals than "driving it normally" untill it warms up. Even if its a tiny amount of wear youre preventing, it adds up.

Incorrect. Even modern day motors see wear upon cold starts. (They dont pre oil them selfs prior to ignition, though thats a fantastic)

Idea*

No, simply because you need to warm up fast without damaging the engine. More fuel, more heat. Idling is too slow, reving is too fast. Just drive with low rev, e.g. petrol below 3k rpm.
idling for 15 mins produces 15 mins of wear

Correct, but with proper oil and normal driving, this wear is minimized and doesnt matter

So youre telling me idling is bad for a vehicle ??? you're clearly high sir, get some sleep. Good talking though. Im off for tonight

I guarantee unless youre a mechanically inclined indevidual (like many of us) Nobody drives their car Normally. Unless your an 80 year old lady.

I'm telling you that idling, in cold start conditions, is worse than low rev driving. Why? Because you don't heat up as fast as you could. Driving with higher rev is even worse than idling.

I drive my car normally

It's actually quite easy if you're not a massive faggot, which you clearly are

Have fun glazing your cylinders, faggots.

Just let the car sit for 10 seconds tops so you're not dryfucking your car, and drive sanely til you're at operating temp, personally i wait til 170F oil temps then i hit it in my turbo car

Correct

>you need to revmatch to change gears
This has been irrelevant ever since synchromesh has been a common part of gearboxes. And it's not been the 1960's for quite a while now.

>just take out the thermostat
>a ls will fit in no worries.

>Be me
>its 25f below
>start car
>go inside and drink warm coffee
>wait 10 minutes for car to get comfy and windows to thaw

this nigga gets it. also i run my car for 2 minutes before shutting off after driving 4 hours (nightly)

You're dumb.

The average person doesn't keep the engine at low rpm while driving unless it's bumper to bumper traffic. 10 minutes is overkill, but 5 minutes is completely fine idle time and good for weather where it's well, well below freezing. Not only do you get the engine at an operating temperature before you have the CHANCE to push on it (which if you're doing highway speeds, you will be) but the car itself will be warmer and you won't feel like you're in a damned ice box.

Yeah, I'm gonna keep letting my rx7 warm up for a while before driving, I'm not too interested in rebuilding the engine three times per winter.

When you change the engine oil make sure all the oil is out then start the car for 3 second without oil on it then turn it off!!!!this will make all the dirty oil of the engine to come out.

I even saw the guy doing it.
MFW

Oil thickens when it gets cold.
Parts need to stay lubricated to not wear out.

Let the car idle for a little bit, then drive it easy until it gets up to temp.
The oil will loosen up as the engine warms up.

This dude has it.

basically this

this is 100% true. both driving and idling in the cold aren't great for the car long term, and idling will take much longer to warm things up

> buy a new car, user
> for the same money you paid for your range rover you can have a brand new hyundai i10!
> I'm serious, why do you want to drive 11yo car?

Do you live next to a freeway on ramp or something? In an urban or residential area where you aren't driving over 40, it's fairly simple to stay below 2500 RPMs.

>When I graduated college I thought it was time to treat myself so I leased this BMW
>you should lease too user and get rid of that old beater!

Are you just pretending to be retarded or something

>driving a 10 year old land rover

Oh god, please dont tell me anyone would ever do this.

>why fix the car you have?
>you could just go into debt for a newer car and fix that one later

You only need to use torque limiting extensions, double checking with a torque wrench is a waste of time

My driver instructor always made me hover over the brake through a intersection. I actually taught him to watch the crosswalk signals in order to help gauge the light timing. Thanks Onterrible and your poo i n the loo driver instructors

Feather the gas when driving a manual. Or feather both clutch and gas and never jolt your passengers shifting.

My advice: always pump the brake pedal before and after starting a car. 1 to test the vaccum booster if equipped and for leaks.

If you see a car with the hood open and you didn't work on it but need to move it, check the oil level before starting.

Also this is one of heartbreaker or mightybenz's pics but to help get pesky alignment bolts free, attach a wrench to your jack handle.

I see you've never met a nigger before

>You got any actual evidence to back up this bullshit?
Oil. Case closed.

>Warm up the car for 10 minutes
This advice varies according to the location, weather, and temperature. There are places where engines are never shut off unless it is for extended downtime or repair.

>Warm up the car for 10 minutes
>mfw my 1.9l TDI takes 15 minutes of driving to reach 90°C
No, the thermostat isn't fucked either.

These threads come up every single year. And it's always fags who live where it doesn't snow a lot that argue about how bad it is to idle an engine.

Fuck you, most of you ride the bus. And for those who don't ride the bus, you race the shit out of your car when you play shitty Asian music. Obviously racing your car doesn't prolong the longevity of anything but instead you fags spend hours arguing about some random person on the internet wanting to warm up their car when it's cold. I legitimately hate most of you.

My 1.9 tdi never reaches 90 degrees, even after driving it for quite a bit.

>being this triggered

Racing your engine literally does nothing harmful. Prove me wrong

I never actually used it for that, but I suppose it could work if the problem was the bolt itself being stuck - usually its the steel sleeve & the bolt having "fused" together from rust

OP is officially retarded. Look at your car's idle when cold. Listen to how your car starts cold compared to warm. There is a huge difference. If you will drive it cold then just keep it below 2k rpm. OH WAIT IT FUCKING IDLES AT 2K RPM DIPSHIT. LOL

Dude I just repair my car like a mexican. I look at it and think "why is it doing this" and then force the car to do what I want. Lol. I guess I will only be 19 once.

I mean, thats good advice. Just because you have a green light doesnt mean someone wont try to plow into you.
I dont hover over the brake, im looking for cars from the lanes im crossing over, trying to see if any are going to roll out in front of me, or someone who is not slowing down fast enough for the red light and will possibly run it.

Who is at fault doesnt matter if you are dead.

If you have a steady job and are a safe driver this is reasonable. If you are a senseless hoonigan or hopeless poorfag (or both like me) then you should get a cheap beater.

>-25C outside
>turn on the heater by remote
>20 minutes later the car is comfy 22C inside and the engine sits at 60C

>start up car
>it revs up over 2k by itself
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW

>killing your battery with remote start

Remote start kills batteries?

You have to let rotary warm up otherwise the drive starts out shitty and stuttery, plus if you stall it cold itll probably flood.

>not having a slow small oil leak
>Not misting the engine with petrolto create a nice 2cycle fuel on the outside
>Not setting bottom of engine on fire to thaw engine oil
It's like you don't even want to live in Siberia.

Wrong. Very wrong.

Double the rpms=double the wear on basically every part of your engine. If you only track your car like once or twice a month, thats probably good for maintaining performance ability, but logically speaking if you drive like a retard everywhere and redline every gear at every stoplight, things will break much faster than a grandma who never takes it over 3k.

rev match != double clutching
You are confusing two similar and overlapping concepts. Rev matching help the clutch even on sychronized gearboxes. I do agree that double clutching is not necessary unless your synchros are worn.

Average RPM for cars is above 3k. Considering a majority of the american worker commutes 15 miles to their job. Even at 45-60mph, which is the average speed for non-highway based roads, you're gonna be spending a majority of the time above 2500k.

Anyone honestly thinking letting your car warm up for 5 minutes is actually harmful and doesn't help has zero idea of what the negative temperatures can have on an engine. Again, go ham on your car and redline every gear when the damned thing hasn't even gotten to operating temperature. See what happens.

is oil temprature not important? is 10 minutes not excessive? i warm it up for 2 minutes max

That's not what I'm advocating.

I'm advocating driving at a relaxed pace (sub 3k RPM) for a few minutes until it's warmed up. It literally takes 2 minutes to get to operating temp if you're driving at low RPM plus you're warming the transmission and the other drive train components.

My car turns does 2600rpm going 65mph on the highway so that's my experience.

Obviously if you leave your driveway and have to immediately go 45MPH you should give it a few minutes to warm up. But most residential streets are going to be driven at about 30MPH. or less.

5 minutes 1000rpm 5000revs
5 minutes 2-3000rpm 10-15000revs
gee whiz

>Opening up any thread on Veeky Forums

>If your oil is really old, don't change it, because the new oil will wash the plugged leaks

Nigga, who the fuck even justifies a lack of maintenance routine like that.
>If you don't run it into the ground, you wont be able to run it into the ground!

Stupid assholes.

Drive it however I want, whenever I want.
If something breaks, I replace it with something stronger if possible.

Admittedly I was super ginger with my Stagea RS4, but only for the transmission temps.

this is semi true, on a good engine that is being worked out regularly will stay cleaner for longer, as long as proper maint is done it may last longer than the engine that was babied due to deposit buildup on rings, valves etc..

however i think we both can agree that racing a cold engine is not good.

Shit nigga, the abuse I give my engine it's probably race ported by now.

>average rpm for cars is above 3k

>Feather the gas
Never ever forever never.

That would be very true for a fwd car.

Like fuck it is. It's almost like nobody on this forum has driven FWD fast.

youtube.com/watch?v=_FYEV66U-Go

>inb4 race car
>inb4 pro driver

The concept applies.

He obviously countersteered. What is semi-correct. When you slide a car, the wheels, and steering wheel will turn by itself, what you can do is let go of it and let it counter steer by itself, but later you have to control it and return it straight once you feel the slide is ending.

Visual example
youtube.com/watch?v=xsM6s0MM2aM&feature=youtu.be&t=1m7s

1m7s

>you need to take your foot of the gas to shift

>starting your car
If you don't start it you'll never know if it doesn't run.

That's solid advice if your car is dorito powered

I dunno man. When its nearly -40'C here. Every car needs to warm up a while. Even most modern cars have trouble just starting up during such mornings when its winter.

At idle your car doesn't pump enough oil to properly lubricate your top end. when buying a second hand police car they usually have worn out cams because cop card spend most of their lives idling on the side of the road

>100km at 1800 rpm
>can make it up to speed in eco mode not going above 2000 rpm

Turbo V6 wins again

what does feathering the gas do?

>Virgin driver
>never touched a diesel

when it's under 20f I like blasting the heat while I let my warm up and getting in a warm car it just wastes a little bit of gas

Yes, but I own a car from 2013 and want to sell it at 100k miles

It's ackshully shitty Italian music made for the nips

>. Thanks Onterrible and your poo i n the loo driver instructors
oh fuck where at

>poo i n the loo
probably brampton, where else