/mg/ Miata General

It is.

What's going on in this thread?

Just wave bro
Some boomers may not recognize your mk4 as an mx5 but who gives a shit

I think its sick
Have you weighed the cost of this kit against other options though?

>popups
You are welcome here, toyobro

I have some questions anons, maybe you can help

I've been wanting a Miata (NA) really badly lately. I've always liked the car (even NB, too, but mostly NA) and was looking into listings and contacting people 2 years ago. But then I decided that it won't be me well for a DD.

I've since acquired a DD & saved a bit. My questions:

1. Winter is around the corner. If I buy one now, I assume I can get a good price from the people who want to make space. Thing is, I won't drive it for months. I'd literally be buying it, driving it 1 or 2 times, and then store it. Is this a good/smart idea? Will keeping it tarped in a driveway for 6 or so months be enough to prevent damage to it?

2. I've never driven a manual. I've watched a bunch of YT videos on how to do so and get the jist of it. I even pretend I have a clutch when I drive my DD in "semi-manual"/tiptronic mode. Think I'd be good to go buy a Miata and just drive it? Hopefully I don't stall. I tried driving stick once in a small narrow road and I always stalled.

3. Is soft cloth enough to prevent rain and shit from coming into the cabin? Should I also get a hard top? It sucks I can't change to and from convertible via the push of a button whenever I please (do NB's have this feature?)

Thanks guys

Going with a turbo will definitely be cheaper and can be built by yourself. But the swap will be cooler in the sea of turbo miatas.

its definitely badass
Just fucking look at it

So how does it work, does the guy sell you the engine or do you have to source it yourself?

1. Why not buy some winter tires and get hektik instead?
2. Miatas with working clutches (i.e., no hydraulic problems) are super easy to learn manual on. Especially with the roof down to hear the engine better.
3. Soft tops will keep the rain out. You can also adjust the rails which the weather seals are attached to, in order to make a more solid seal.

If you can get a good price do it.

1. Buy winter tires for it and just have fun
2. Miata are really easy to learn manual on
3. Id get the hard top if you can find it.

You can either buy the engine yourself and a kit to build it yourself or just deliver them the car and let them assemble it for you.

Do all pre '92 miats have short nose cranks or just some of them?

Someone pls help me find a cheap license plate mount for this towhook. I hate having the bucktooth plate, and im in cuckifornia

"If your Miata is a 1990 or 1991 with VIN209446or less, you have a crankshaft with a smaller diameter nose."

Thanks, what page are you getting that from?

miata.net/garage
AKA the most useful website on the Internet.

Recuva'd my last hard drive today, found this, posting this.

5AM Miata feels.

Pretty comfy. How did you get a glowing fan level knob?

When I bought the car (summer '07), the paint covering the button had already been peeled off. I didn't realize that wasn't normal for several years.

lmao that's my car. I'm flattered someone saved it and posted it though

Are those a meme or do they make a difference

and where can i buy the cheapest ones

I thought it was pronounced like the name "Eunice" except: Yuu-Nos

It's pronounced You-Noss

you're both wrong

it's

Ewwwwww Nose

NA/NB Miatas must be fucking amazing to drive because they are ugly, have no options, no where to put things and frankly there's no way that bath tub with a roof is safe.

Guys dont take the bait
Just post cute miatas

Lol nope m8

>NA/NB Miatas must be fucking amazing to drive

only after upgrading suspension, wheel/tires

They are pretty damn fun my man

forgot a pic

>Mfw someone posts my miat and calls it cute.

>Turbo
>Supercharger
>Built na

I guess staying na will be the most fun while a turbo gives the most power?

mcm did this.

turbo for track, supercharger for street.

My heater hose ruptured and leaked coolant steam everywhere, so i drained my radiator, replaced the hose, and refilled the coolant. I ran the car parked in idle for 10 minutes and everything looked totally fine. Then i decided to drive it around a bit, but the steam is back.. and it isnt coming from the hoses anymore. In fact, i have no idea where its coming from now. What do you guys think it is? My temp guage was fine the entire drive, never went past halfway. I thought the problem was fixed for good.

Probably just the coolant that leaked out?

nonononono

Super for track because linear throttle response and better low-end torque.

Turbo for street for dyno points and cool tsutsutsu.

you-know-s

Doesnt seem like it, its a lot of steam and its happening again since i got home.

What is the possibility that i put too much coolant / water in? The overflow tank is low now, and the radiator seems way too full. More full than when i filled it up. It comes right up to the cap.

desu it was supercharger > turbo for me anyways
but a built na with a high redline and ITBs seems awesome too

NAs need to upgrade to NB sways and/or NB rack/front sub but other than that all they need is fresh shocks/any trashed bushings replaced and they drive nicer than 98% of stuff on the road

Bad idea

>but a built na with a high redline and ITBs seems awesome too

on a honda engine yes, but on the BP you'll just end up with a loud slow car

This
If you're gonna build NA, do a K series swap first

You could put 4k into a naturally aspirated bp build and you probably wouldn't crack 180 whp

Here's a fun pic from aug 2011 before I had a lip or NB wheels (I still have the stock 10.8-lb hollow-spokes in storage).

Yeah, BP/B6's just flow for shit, hardly surprising for a car that's really made to be FI'd.

>no way that bath tub with a roof is safe

Buy a crossover you cupcake.

Yep they are amazing

Than it's either gonna be one of those rotrex superchargers or the eaton m45 , gotta do some more reasearch on those

automatics are always a bad idea

If the shell on the 1.8 is fucked then it'll be easier swapping drive train from your 1.8 to your clean auto

They're an improvement over stock , but not worth the rediculous price. Some people in the UK do 3d printed delrin ones for £20

How do you 3d print delrin?

Slavfag that needs some advice here
Long story short - looking for some fun to drive and not horrendous and expensive to work on rwd daily driver
Was mostly thinking about e36 but im not really convinced about it, so i started to think about Miata but I've got few problems:
-how bad/good is it to dd in a rather harsh winter?
-how fucked will I be considering they are salting the roads when it snows?
-is getting nb over na a bad idea?
-can you slide with the inferior 1.6?

I'm about to sell both my Beamers and buy a Miata.

>first time changing the spark plugs on my miata
>burst out the plug tool
>HAHA TIME TO WRENCH
>mfw cant loosen the first plug
>mfw the previous owner did something retarded

Maybe i should wait until the engine is completely cooled off. I tried it when it was somewhat warm.
Should i be worried lads?

Wheel discussion:
>if your rim weights more then 15lbs/7kg you drive a stance-faggot-posing-shitbox

>Want mariner blue mx5
>Hard to find a non rusty one let alone one without a short nose crank ticking time bomb

If I buy an old mk1 mx5 I'm going to want to upgrade the suspension, new wheels, new brakes. Won't be able to afford a total respray..

Why the fuck did they only make them for three years!

The SNC problem is so overblown. Its not a "ticking time bomb" unless you are willfully careless when messing with the crank bolt. Literally just take the two minutes to torque it properly IF you have to touch it at all, and you wont have a SNC failure.

>15lbs/7kg

too heavy
try 12lbs/5.5kg instead

I went with the super original RPF1 15x7. Less than ten pounds per wheel. Cant get a much better wheel for the miata in my opinion. Light, strong, looks cool, and not super expensive. No wonder everyone and their grandma has them

not really
with 1.8 form nb2, lighter flywheel, itb and maybe a better exhaust you can easily reach 170hp, and more importantly great engine characteristics
really decent for a miat

How can I make my NA cluster orange?

you mean the backlight of the gauges? just change the light bulbs

I set this as the maximum. I have super light OZ rims in 15x7 offset 37 which are 11lbs/5kg.

And thats only because the late model 1.8s had almost that much power to begin with. You're not gonna get much extra out of these engines staying NA with simple bolt in mods. If your goal is 170HP then go for it though i guess, probably better than going FI at that power level.

I've got a set of 15x6" at 13.1 lbs each (pic rltd) and a set of 14x6" at 10.8.

15 lbs is setting the bar too low for mx-5 wheels.

Oi-noss

nice
my 15x6,5 2-piece welded SSR are around 5,3kg

Was talking to an mx5 specialist about a clean looking 'NO RUST' mk1 for sale for 6000 bong bucks, only 65k miles
>mention how MOT history says 'sills and chassis starting to rust' back in 2010
>"oh well, that doesn't really mean anything, as far as we can tell there have been no repairs"

Should I just go for it and get it waxoyl'd? They said they'd include it in the price, and people in forums say good things about them

Spray a little pb blaster down there and let the threads soak. Also yes wait until the motor is cold

You don't change the bulb color dude, the bulbs are white. Just get some orange tissue paper and replace all the semitransparent green tinted plastic with orange.

If you get a correctly sized turbo you can still have plenty of response and more power than a super charger for less $$$

>Just get some orange tissue paper and replace all the semitransparent green tinted plastic with orange.
????

>2-piece welded SSR
Sounds intradasting.
Got any pics on the car? Even just a stock image from the interblag?

>pb blaster
This guy knows what's up. WD40 is not a penetrating lube, PB sure is.

>Should I just go for it and get it waxoyl'd?
That shit claims to 'kill' old rust
I assume that means even if your sills were rusty inside it would stop them from getting any worse

Ok you know what I might be thinking of a different car's gauge cluster. I'm pretty sure the na has tinted bulbs now that I think about it. I was thinking of this image

>Two easy methods, do a little web research about getting to the bulbs first, though.
1. Get light bulb covers such as pic related (I bought a set of red ones at VatoZone® in '08 right off the shelf for under $4) and slip 'em over the backlight bulbs like snug little Trojans®. ***
2. Get pre-colored LEDs or bulbs off the web (they're cheap too) and replace the old ones.

*** I did this to my '95 and discovered there must be a green transparent film in the guage cluster somewhere as mine came out a green-red rainbow which I kept for a while but went back to green. I did some forum-searching and some others did not run into this issue though. I didn't really research hard enough to figure the deal out tho.

Any news on the ND transmission issues?

I was going to get one but that shit make my penis totally soft

the car in OP's picture has them, except mine is the 8 spoke version
and no, i'm not the op, it's just a coincidence

>It comes right up to the cap.
That's normal. Is the hose you replaced tight on all contact surfaces?

Try to get it to steam again and look under the hood to locate the leak.

>how bad/good is it to dd in a rather harsh winter?
Can't tell from experience because I don't want salt on mine, but the heater is pretty strong for the size of the interior and you have about half the weight over the driven rear wheels, so shouldn't be too bad.

>how fucked will I be considering they are salting the roads when it snows?
Salt will fuck up any car over time. NAs seem to have better rust proofing than NBs, but they are already older. When you can see rust on the outside of the car, there will always be tons more structural rust underneath. I'd get a cheap Miat with only minor rust damage, maybe one where the sills have already been replaced if I were to drive it all year. If you keep on top of it, i.e. remove excessive surface rust when it pops up and oil the underbody before the winter months, you should be able to keep the car running without major repairs for a long time.

>is getting nb over na a bad idea?
Don't think so, NBs are becoming cheap and the 1.9s have better performance. They have an additional rust problem spot though, IIRC it's the front ends of the frame rails. Make sure that hasn't rusted through.

>can you slide with the inferior 1.6?
I'm not gonna say it's impossible, but on dry pavement it takes either handbrake, really high cornering speeds or clutch kicking in first gear. In the wet, no problem.

Have fun!

I think that's a bit much for a car with rust issues.

Is there a very noticeable difference in the NC 1.8 and 2.0?
I drive a 75bhp german shitbox now so I'm thinking I won't mind the 1.8?

Looking at this blue NC for sale
I love the blue exterior but not so keen on the interior

Is that blue dash bar easily removed?
Seats are ok, its not like I look at the,

pic of the front
Look at it, its so happy! 20th anniversary miat is the happiest by far

only problem is the seats, but easy solved by swapping in some classy recaro's

the blue bar probably looks pretty nice irl

if you get it make sure you swap in the 2.5L

Those are seat covers right? The blue doesnt even match the car. Terrible.

the 2.5L? from what

those are nasty yes, I don't think they're covers but I'll see when I go view it
But shit, I only see the seats when I get in and out
Wouldn't mind getting some nice leather ones anyway

Inferior NC drivers should get the fuck out of this threads. No one likes your fatass monstrosity.
>pic related

Got a 96' mk1 1.8 with 180k km totally rebuilt no rust almost everything brand new for 4000 euros.

How bad did I fugg up

You fuck off.

Doesn't sound bad desu.

the 2.5L mzr from a mazda 6

good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-1506b.html