/ORG/ :

General overland offroad and (((niceposting))) thread. Pray for snow. Post rare taytays and offroad maymays.

Jeep suicidewatch update:
fourwheeler.com/news/1708-great-wall-motors-confirms-intent-to-purchase-jeep-brand/
Trump intervenes:
cnbc.com/2017/08/21/jeep-to-china-could-be-a-red-flag-for-trump.html

Timeline:
>Old Thread
>Older thread:
>/out/ thread:
>/pirate4x4/ thread:
pirate4x4.com/forum/general-chit-chat/699969-anybody-here-surf-Veeky Forums-board.html

>ITT:
>Jeep gets sold to chinks
>school starts again
>summerfags are gone
>we can start posting serious, elucidating content

>Map is irrelevant:
zeemaps.com/map?group=2389619
>Discord for full out autism containment:
discord.gg/FGMNmeg
>Become an weeb stickerfag:
watracing.com/?product=off-road-general

Other urls found in this thread:

camburg.com/shop/suspension/camburg-toyota-tundra-2wd-4wd-07-17-bilstein-6112-performance-kit/
aidenjamescustoms.com/products/2014-2017-toyota-4runner-exterior-lighting-kit
twitter.com/AnonBabble

>(((niceposting))) thread
>posts a confused and upset doggo
also stop linking pirate u fagit
/out/ is cool though

Looking to upgrade from stock suspension, any suggestions? Currently sitting on 2 in. leveling blocks front and rear, stock UCAs. Had my eyes on this kit for a while camburg.com/shop/suspension/camburg-toyota-tundra-2wd-4wd-07-17-bilstein-6112-performance-kit/ anything else at this price or lower that would be worth considering?

i just copy and pasted old old bread pls no bully taytay im sry

Oh hai Texas bro. Where was this pic taken?

71 years old. Rip sweet prince.

RIP

literally what

Shitbird

He was twice the person of most.
Goodnight sweet Prince

The park will never be the same with him.
I'll pour one out for him.

Just got in my full led exterior and interior kit, pretty excited.

Gonna be bring bro...

*bright

I'll shine like a star

Construction site in Cypress

Ayyyy, im back

i got a friend of mine with this m939 to post on here a while back

they gave him shit for not being a mudder and he never came back

Fuck off Barb

Frick erf brrb*

At Rausch creek on "shoot the moon"

Wish I would have had a front locker, even with the large tires and rear locker it was difficult.

Locked front and rear is where its at.

Another shot from Rausch creek, in the rock garden

Stop putting LEDs in exterior lighting, it's not legal and not safe.

that looks Wicked. Where is that located?

Tremont, Pennsylvania. It's Rausch creek offroad park

okay sorry mom

You know they put LED lights on brand new vehicles right? How can it not be legal if it's offered from the factory...

Try being an adult, son.
That's not even remotely the same thing as replacing incandescent lights with LEDs. They are not similar at all, optically, so you can't do it.

If you want a vehicle to take on the sand at the beach, and the beach is six hours away, and you want to take lots of weekend trips out there, do you start with a used 4x4 or go new?

I had a blast this summer in the outer banks driving my dads truck around in the sand and riding waves. I want to take some weekend trips out there next summer but I dont have a truck of my own. I do have my brothers (dads originally) 97 silverado 1500 that I could fix up. Its got a misfire that would hopefully be solved with some new plugs/wires/distributor, but it also has 250k+ miles and needs a new cat due to that misfire. But even if I fix everything can I depend on that to get me to the beach and back without breaking down?

My second thought is just getting a new truck. Trucks seems to hold there value a lot better, it would be more reliable, and there are times here and there when I could use a truck. But mostly I just commute to an office job so I dont NEED a truck. Even when I go hunting weve got a farm truck to use anyway.

I also had so much fun driving in the sand that I think I could get into offroading in general. But I also really love my current car and would have to trade it in. So what do guys, fix old truck for cheap and risk being stranded in no mans land NC, or buy an expensiexpensive new

What does it consist of?

Kinda like says. I've seen original lights that have been fitted with special LED "bulbs" and the light has been nice and worked with the original lamp perfectly - but also too often when it simply doesn't get along with the reflector and the light goes all over

There is a world between throwing a random LED kit into your stock halogen housings and factory LED headlamps

What are you guys the light police? Who says he didn't buy high quality replacement lights in LED which work as factory intended?

Which is why, as you can see by the first line in my reply, I ask him what the kit consists of

Because those don't exist. The only units that exist are Philips and they only work in very specific luminaires and are only legal in other markets. If he replaced his halogen lights with an OEM option light or one of the many actually well engineered options, like JW Speaker or even TruckLite units, that's one thing, but I'd be surprised if that's what he has.

Neither of you are the law so calm your horses. Even if he is somehow in the same country as you two, you'll never see him. So don't worry so much about shit that doesn't effect you. Seriously, driving can be dangerous no matter what kinda lights you run. Flipping out about some LED exterior lights, you'd thing the fucking world was gonna end. But I imagine both of you love sucking the government's tit as they tell you all the auto modifications that are illegal "to make you safer". You know most "laws" are bullshit right? Absolute safety isn't worth taking away my, or anyone else's, freedom to do dumb shit. Life ain't safe, get over it. Having a slightly brighter headlight ain't gonna kill you for the 3 seconds as you drive by the offending automobile.

If you're that scared of some bright lights then maybe driving an automobile isn't for you.

Kill yourself.

looking for an suv with
>a price under $4k
>good mpg (~25mpg or more)
>outstanding reliability
>manual
>the ability to get to the end of holy jim

I'm considering getting a first gen rav4....any other suggestions? .not quite as interested in a cr-v just to put that out the way

Why so mad bro?

Suzuki Sidekick.

Did I strike a nerve? Shit get too real for you?

No one's mad, I just want you to kill yourself so you can never type that dumb shit again.

But killing myself is ILLEGAL! I would never do anything to upset big brother.

Remember it's ok to be mad, let your feelings go

I probably won't meet him, but everyone else he meets on the road will be the ones getting glare in their eyes with unfitting lights. I can't really find any reason to justify everyone he meets who are not in a semi or a brodozer getting blinded at night just so he can have marginally better low-beam headlights. I know exactly what its like to have terrible low-beams, and I could easily do an HID-kit or LED-kit for mine to increase it - but it would also suck ass for anyone I meet.

I live in a place where there are tons and tons of moose, and where its also dark when I go to work in the morning, and dark when I go back for 6 months at a time. Someone having wrongly adjusted/ill-fitted headlights in those conditions pose a stupidly huge risk to oncoming traffic due to both the usual wrong angle of the light and its intensity.

I dunno, perhaps I'm weird for wanting all the vehicles on the road to be in a condition so that won't pose a risk to its own driver, occupants or other motorists & pedestrians on the road

If only you lived in America you'd understand your safety doesn't trump my freedom.

>so he can have marginally better low-beam headlights.

They won't be better, they'll be worse. You absolutely cannot install a light source in a reflector/lens assembly that it wasn't designed for, it just doesn't work. It appearing to be better to you doesn't mean anything. The only safe lighting is either OEM (even if it's shit, it's at least compliant and can be supplemented) or something from a reputable manufacturer like Valeo, Cibie, JW Speaker, etc.

Buddy of mine put these in his 1998 Hilux, and it actually did improve the light quite a bit. They're adjustable 360 degrees to make sure you can get the angling as good as it gets, and we were able to get the cut-off quite alright - even still, the improvement was not that big, and it did also give out too much glare for other drivers

You can also install HID kits, but then you're pretty much brute-forcing it with strong bulbs to make more light - and that just fucks everything up

We do agree tho - the light source needs to be 100% made for the lamp/reflector/projector that its going in

Yeah, they can't keep me down because fuck mud, i love my vehicle. That being said, I do run trails and there is sometimes mud, but purposely mudding a 50+ year old vehicle with limited parts in a pit.... yeah, no. Ill go play in the river

What the fuck is everyone's problem? This is the kit I got. The highs and lows are hid but every other light is led aidenjamescustoms.com/products/2014-2017-toyota-4runner-exterior-lighting-kit

Some people just get triggered when others do things they don't like.

/org/ in a nutshell

So true, well I'd say Veeky Forums in a nutshell

The issue is that HID is designed to be used in a projector when it comes to stock housing. Halogen and xenon bulbs are designed different, and as such xenon doesn't really go all that well in halogen housings. With a stock halogen housing/reflector you will always have glare even with stock halogen. With proper adjustment this glare that gets outside of the aimed "line" of the lights is minimal, helped by the fact that halogen produces a very soft and relatively weak light. Xenon is a lot sharper, more intense and stronger, and glares a lot more compared to halogen. To avoid blinding other people on the road you'll have to aim the lights so low that it kinda defeats the purpose of having xenon, and ESPECIALLY on vehicle where the lights sit relatively far off the ground

There is a reason why xenon/HIDs always come stock in a projector housing

Eh whatever, tired of people blinding me so I'll be the one to blind them.

I fucking love the NP242 in my Jeep.
I love having that center dif/awd mode for sharp turns and higher speed, and I love that it has real locking 4wd for high and low as well. And I love that it's also 2wd for gas saving.

But I'm soon building a 2nd gen explorer sport, and the first thing to go is that electric awd only/no low range piece of shit in the middle.
Now because it is Ford, I'm limited to borg Warner stuff I guess.
So is there anything equivalent to the NP242? I really want all those features.

You got scammed, that's all trash. Replace your low beams with H11s (or H9s if you really want to for some reason) from Phillips, Osram, or GE. Replace your high beams with Philips 9011 HIRs. If you need more light for high beams the Cibie Oscar LEDs are far cheaper and will outperform any of that crap you were sold. Make sure you properly aim your lights or, preferably, have it done by a shop with an optical aiming machine. Don't bother with fog lights, even good ones aren't really that useful and most factory ones aren't really that good.
>becoming the thing you hate
Logical.

Don't really care, I'll be installing this weekend and look forward to the brightness.

Foglights are very, very good for fog, though.

Ok retard.
Rear foglights are great. Foglights aren't supposed to throw light very far, they're mainly for seeing the sides of the road so you don't drive off of them.

Yeah, very helpful in catching frogs or turtles at night. Apparently I killed one the other day and I didn't even know, lmao.

What is wrong with light bars?

>What is wrong with light bars?
Light bars like? LED bars from places like Rigid or Baja Designs (or random Chinese resellers)? Well, they simply don't perform. They don't even meet federal minimum performance standards for any sort of vehicle lighting. Their 'DOT legal' claims are straight up lies. Since manufacturers self certify that they meet FMVSS standards only the honest companies really mean it.

I meant use those large 2 ft light bars for offroading to flood everything with light. Then put on two spot pattern PIAA or KCs to try and see one layer through the trees.

>they simply don't perform
U wot?

That's highly illegal. Stop that.

We can sit here playing with pictures of beam patterns all day, but the only thing that matters is actual photometric testing. Something might look good to you, but it could be one of the worst performing setups on the planet.

>safety isn't worth taking away the freedom to make others unsafe
Kek, I'll give you a 4/10 for the laffs and the assmad.

Thats the same thing I say when people call me retarded for buying Rigid and NBB when you can get a 52" SUPER INTENSITY 500W CREE 5D LED BAR for $80 on Ebay. Its all in the eye of the beholder.

My dad runs a set of Lazer R750 lamps on his Outlander. He loves the light he gets from those, and says he could not want more. I like them too, but I would've preferred even more lights to the side of the road and preferrably somthing more intense in the 50m-radius infront of the car

Just a few days ago I put some cheapcheap 60W LED lamps on my mothers Subaru as a birthday present to her. She thinks they perform great and also says she has all the light she feels that she needs - I would've torn them off, returned them to the store and bought some actually good ones had it been my own car.

Quality really matters. The diodes used, how the reflectors are shaped, the materials used in the reflectors, chipset, angling of the reflectors

How is it a leveling kit if it's two inches front and back? That's just a two inch lift.

>suicide illegal
Is that real? How much is the ticket?

4/10?! Come now, that was quality shitposting, or at least better than a 4...

I just realized my suv is 2wd.
What do?

Kys

Maybe some day, maybe some day soon brother.

2 mudders

Should I convert?

I was planning on throwing tons of time and chromoly at it until I get 15 inches of travel or so

I had a 2WD ZJ Grand Cherokee. Bought it at an auction for cheap when I was 15. Didn't even think to check. Just assumed they were all 4wd, I guess.

Never did any hard trails, obviously, but it was fine. Never got stuck, not even in 24+ inches of snow.

>I just realized

Got an 01 F350 diesel with 409k miles. just replaced the battery, glow plugs and GP relay. Thing still refuses to start unless plugged in for a bit. Any ideas?

Buy a truck that doesn't suck.

As a work truck that was 1500...I have no other problems with it but thanks for the suggestion bud

6.0?
pls don't be 6.0

Nah it's a 7.3

Why not buy used?

What is a stock F150 4x4 with rear locker capable of? I don't want to break things

Tbh I have not even looked in depth at it, and I only found out when trying to find out what transfer case was in it according to the Vin.

With any luck, the trans is probably bad, and not the engine.

Tyres?
Rear lockers will get you over rocky passes and some deep mud issues. Centre lock will help in general coast through anything remotely difficult.

Are you trying to keep up with your local club or just have fun around by yourself?

So did you test that the glow rail is getting power before and after changing the relay?

The only other couple things that may effect the starting of a stone cold diesel are valve clearances (won't seal the cylinder when cold, thus lowering compression) or the fuel injection advance should that be applicable.
Depending on the engine fuel injection system, some engines have a separate water temperature sensor which controls both glow timer and fuel injection advance.
But we still need to know if your glow plugs are getting power first, run a test light (or better yet a multi-meter) on your glow rail.

The K5, saving money for the LQ9 swap, hope to have it installed in mid January. Gotta have a full manual valvebody (reverse style) installed in the 700r4 since the drive by wire doesn't have a provision for the TV cable. Also I then have full control over the shifts, and gears, while still having a torque converter. Gotta order a higher stall converter, 2000rpm, to go with the LS engine.

The current TBI 350 is on its last legs, rod knock and isn't running right. But apparently someone took the rev limiter off since it'll make it to 6200rpm before it floats the valves. Anyone who knows anything about TBI engines knows that that is way too high, rev limiter should be at no more than 5000rpm, and that would be generous. This engine probably doesn't make any power above 4000rpm.

I'm gonna miss half the winter with no working 4wd, but it'll be worth it when it's running again. We usually don't get hit hard snowstorm wise hear in south central PA until after the 1st of the year anyway.

Also need to buy some 2" spacers for the rear axle, keep the rear tires from rubbing on the inner fenderwell at full stuff. Will run the 1/2 ton axles until next winter, they cost a lot to build up right.

Just have fun by myself

A rear locker will take you many places that an open rear and open front wouldn't. Just make sure to have good tires that match the terrain you're wheeling.

If you have a short wheelbase then a front locker may make more sense. That way you don't adversely affect the handling on the street. If the wheelbase is over 100" then running it in the rear shouldn't be an issue, especially if it isn't a light vehicle and is an automatic transmission. Manual transmissions take more finesse to live with a rear locker. As someone who has a lunchbox locker in a 2wd manual S-10 pickup it is interesting to say the least. It keeps normies from driving it.

Remember the longer the wheelbase the more leverage on the rear which makes it unlock easier. Same thing with heavier vehicles they make the locker smoother. I had a locker in my square body suburban, heavy, long and automatic and you didn't even notice the locker as long as you didn't mash it in sharp turns.

I will do that soon. I have tested the gpr and it is getting power.

well as far as I can tell you dont really save all that much money on a used 4x4. I was looking around at tacomas on auto trader and they are all 200k+ miles and still like ten grand. I know theyre reliable but once youve got that kind of mileage things will break. Even the silverado I have now is worth 5 grand if I can get it running. I also looked at fj cruisers and they are 20 vrand to get one with less than 100k miles too. With any other car id agree, I bought my current car when it was two years old with about 36k on it and it was half what it cost new. But all the 4x4's seem to hold their value way better than most cars, so it makes buying new not seem as bad. Plus I get a GM family discount on a new truck if I go with a colorado, which im leaning towards.

If youve got some good suggestions on value picks in the used 4x4 market id love to hear em though.

Thanks fellas. I have a ~150" wheelbase. The rear locker is selectable though so I don't have to worry about using it on roads.

Cool, in that case the problem won't be plugs you'd think. Definitely either fuel delivery or valve clearance.
Often fuel bleeding back can cause problems with cold starting diesels, but that's more to do with the period of time it's left sitting. The fact your's consistently changes whether or not a block heater is plugged into it leads me to think it's probably not that, but hey, it might be worth replacing the hose between the filter and fuel injection pump with a clear tube and observing that over a period of time to cancel that out.

If clearances don't fix the issue (it'd be worth doing anyway) then it'd be time to take it to a diesel injection specialist.
This is bang on. Although something on the scale of an F150 would be more than capable of keeping a lunchbox style locker operating smoothly in the rear... So long as smooth mid corner throttle application is used obviously :D

Ah, that's no problem then. Good set of tyres and you'll go almost anywhere you'll fit the wheelbase.

I kind of agree with you on the resale thing.
I'm an Ausfaggot so we only ever got the latest shape Colorado with the 2.8 Duramax. After the first couple of years in production when they got the oil consumption issue in check it's been a pretty solid motor.
For beach and sand driving it's hard to beat a gas engine's rev range flexibility, but with a six hour drive either way the diesel would quickly pay for itself, and modern diesels have plenty flexibility anyway.

Im honestly kind of torn on whether I go for the diesel or not. Id basically have to choose between the zr2 package or the diesel engine, and I really like that zr2 package. Plus the largest thing I would likely tow will be a 14 ft john boat and I think the gas engine will handle that just fine. Add to that the fact that you trade away a lot of on road responsiveness to get the gas mileage from the diesel and with my current car I actually traded away fuel economy to go for a higher octane tune, so I prefer power/speed over gas mileage. If I planned on doing a bunch of rock crawling and towing there wouldnt even be a question on getting the diesel and I think its really cool that someone is offering a diesel in the mid size.

Remember when going hard offroad you will love the gas engine for the quicker acceleration and larger rpm range. Momentum is king, and slippery hillclimbs and mud require high revving HP. IMO the gas engine, one that actually has decent HP, is better offroad 80% of the time.

is that the old deep shit offroaders truck?