QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

Its whatever flange size the exhaust manifold has is what determines what turbos you can use.

I have an 06 Audi A3 at one point it had boost, the gauge doesn't work could it be broken. or just disconnected? how do I know?

Ok thanks!

Are there any cars in the 10-12k range that compete reasonably with a 335? I had one already that was fbo, but autotragic.

wheres the sim racing thread

How do I learn to drive stick? I have an automatic but want my next car to be stick, none of my friends drive stick so that's not an option. I know I'll get the reply buy a shit box and learn yourself but how will I drive away from the sale if I can't drive it?

Watch these two videos. The cars are the same in name only.
youtu.be/fomsQspi_yA
youtu.be/0qJfvWYCiho

Aren't there driving classes where you live? Probably cheaper than buying a shitbox and you can get the basics down so you cn drive away after actually buying your manual car. If the classes are too few maybe arrange so you can get driving time for less money? I'm not sure, just throwing ideas.

Didn't think about the driving classes, good idea user

NEW SPORT EXPERIMENTAL

So I've gotten plenty of conflicting answers from the interbutts...I need to change my coolant. I don't know about coolant flushes but I need to change the coolant. Please tell me if this is the correct method
>open petcock on bottom end of radiator, let coolant drain, then close petcock
>fill up reservoir with distilled water of proper amount, turning on the engine to get the water moving if you can't add the proper amount
>take car for a drive to get it up to temp to open the thermostat and get the very last bit of coolant in the heater core collected
>let coolant cool
>open petcock on bottom end of radiator, let water/coolant mix drain, then close petcock
>fill reservoir with 50/50 mix of proper amount, turning on the engine to get the coolant moving if you can't add the proper amount
>go for a drive to "burp" the system
>let it cool
>fill up to the "cold" level on reservoir
>repeat until done
Only question, how do you get ALL of the water out? It would be stuck in the heater core like the old coolant even if you opened the petcock would it not?

I just drain the coolant and fill it back up with water and coolant. I don't know why people have a sacred ritual of flushing it a thousand times. Just drain it and fill it back up lmao, it's not hard

So skip all that distilled water flush stuff and just
>>open petcock on bottom end of radiator, let coolant drain, then close petcock
>fill reservoir with 50/50 mix of proper amount, turning on the engine to get the coolant moving if you can't add the proper amount
>go for a drive to "burp" the system
>let it cool
>fill up to the "cold" level on reservoir
>repeat until done
?

It's an old shitbox, it doesn't need super special treatment, I just don't want to fucking break the thing.

I have a 2007 tsuru (pls don't mock my shitbox i love it) and I think there is something wrong with the brakes.

There's is waaaaay too much travel to the brake pedal, if I push really far the car brakes acceptably, but I have to push the pedal really far down, and it worries me because it messes up the responsiveness.

What could be the issue? I'm going to take it to the shop anyway because that's the right thin to do but I want to learn and also I don't want to get assfucked by the mechanic so I wan you guys to tell what could possibly cause the brake pedal to feel like that. Also it's not the pads because they were changed recently.

1. drain the shit
2.put drain plug back on and put new shit in the radiator cap until it fills to the top
3. turn the car on and wait it to warm up
4. fill the radiator with more shit until it wont take anymore
5. close radiator cap
6. go for drive
--if you want to autistically flush your car 20 times, go back to step 1--

park the car over night
fill the reservoir to the cold line

search the brake booster test and check your brake fluid level, sounds like the brake booster is bad or theres air in the system if someone changed the fluid or theres a brake fluid leak

If I cruise at 65kmh (limit is 50 cops don't only act if >65) engines doing just over 2k rpm in 4th gear. 5th gear is ~1800 rpm. Question is which is more efficient? Engine is 2.4 V6 121kw/230nm. A6 Avant quattro 1760kg. For a car that heavy it might be better to keep in 4th?

3rd at 3k

What's this part? Somehow it came loose and it's dangling

Oh in the radiator cap, not into the reservoir. That's good to know. I think I have to take off some plastic cover to do that. Thanks pal.

When you say "wait it to warm up" does that mean until the needle is at operating temp or until it's "warm enough".

>When you say "wait it to warm up" does that mean until the needle is at operating temp or until it's "warm enough".
cars regulate their temperature using a thermostat. Water doesn't circulate in cars when they're cold because they need to warm up so they work more efficiently. Once the car reaches operating temperature, the thermostat opens. When the thermostat opens, the water in the radiator will get sucked into the engine very quickly and start circulating. The thermostat should open when your coolant temp gauge is in middle. don't let the radiator go completely empty, otherwise it will suck air into everything and that's just terrible

Ok sounds good thanks a lot!

/r/ing that picture of the S2000 and Boxster owned by the pair of gay couples

If it was the brake booster wouldn't it be harder to push the pedal? I have no trouble pushing the pedal, it's easy, doesn't require a lot of force. the problem is the amount of travel, or could that still be the bbooster?

What's wrong with corolla? I'm looking between getting a accent, polp(not really), civic, corolla or Mazda 3, generally any sedan that doesn't look like shit and is relatively new, up from 2010. All used. What's better for cheap maintenance and reliability?
(Should I start my own thread?) My budget is $11000

The face lifted Mazda 3s fixed a lot of those problems. The 2017+ cars are actually a little nicer than the new Civics, and you can get them at a better price
Only problem is no Android Auto in the Mazda, and they patched the exploit used to side load it

Nothing really, they're just appliances that make you want to kill yourself out of boredom

I meant to remove all that top shit. My real question is:

I'm looking between getting a accent, polp(not really), civic, corolla or Mazda 3, generally any sedan that doesn't look like shit and is relatively new, up from 2010. All used. What's better for cheap maintenance and reliability? My budget is $11000

I’m thinking about trading my 2000 v6 mustang for a v6 Saab 9-3 aero since I need something more versitile and winter capable.
I can get one with 150,000km for $8k canabux or one with 190,000km for around $4k
I wanted to know if they are decent cars and assuming neither have issues, if it’s worth paying more for lower kms

It's GM shit. Just gent an Accord or something

Why do car people in general seem to hate busy steering wheels, what's the problem of having some buttons there? Is it just cosmetic?

Come at me, faggot.

My father has been wanting me to take a pursuit driving course. Apparently either in Oklahoma or Texas Motor Speedway there was/is a teen pursuit driving course that's fun and can help lower insurance premiums by a pretty decent amount. I'm only a teen for another few months and the adult rate he says was higher.

I can't find anything about a pursuit driving course, but he said it was structured like the Navy one. Day one was about being the chase car, and day two your job was to learn how to lose a tail. Anybody seen these before and maybe know where to find it in the DFW area?

I don't mind them, they're literally more practical, I'm asking why other people don't like them

I think it's the clutter thing. Got all these music and audio controls on my wheel when they're literally inches away from my right hand, too.

Except newer cars are ditching those controls

So my vehicle seems to have more power and accelerate harder when it thinks it is cold.
Let me explain the situation.
>i drive it to work
>3 hours later I drive to lunch or whatever
>the block is still probably warm and expanded and all, so it shouldn't hurt anything, but the temp gauge is almost pegged C
>I floor it down the street and it butt dynos noticibly harder.

So is this a thing? I would guess it gives it more fuel when cold, so more fuel is more bang.
Should I wire in a switch and resistor to the temp going to the ecu, and test further?

pic given is literally a brand new car, or are you talking about getting rid of controls near the actual radio? either way car pictured has both

That's your shock mount, and even if its not attached to the shock, it shouldn't be dangling.

Are you sure its come loose?

When your car is starting it up it dumps more fuel as to warm up to optimal temperature quickly so it runs more efficiently.

However its so noticeable as to feel substantially more powerful, you probably have fuel mapping issue which can lead to problems down the road.

What happens when the purchase price you paid for a vehicle is less than what the DMV is saying? I bought a used truck for 1500 which is on the bill of sale but the dmv says its worth 5500. The seller turned in their bill of sale already and i don't know if i can get another one notarized in time. Am in MO

Driving classes like the other user said, or since your browsing for another car, find a car you might be interested in and ask the owner if you pay him for his time, to get him to teach you.

Any ideas on how to make inside of car quieter?

Cold air yields better engine performance than warm air because it is denser (has more oxygen to burn) and holds less water vapor.

t. Read through the FAA handbook

Is it the Dmv or your State revenue service giving you the price?

here in SC when you buy a vehicle the sales tax you pay on it is determined by how much you state you paid on it when you turn in the old title. However other states will assess the value of the vehicle themselves regardless of what you paid for it, and you have to pay the taxes they determine you owe.

It's stock, sooo.
It isn't that, same ambient temp. It's just faster till the coolant warms.

The dmv is using kbb to do it. Our DMVs are contracted out. The taxes i was expecting to pay were 82 not the 320 they want. The truck isn't even close to be worth 5500

>It's stock, sooo.

Soooo that doesn't mean somethings not wrong with it.

By using Dynamat or other similar sound deadening material and lining the doors and inner body of the car with it.

Are used Turbo and Supercharger kits a recommended buy?

Thanks bud!

We've all seen an ad that says runs great so an so, just needs a starter. Is that usually true? Has anyone ever offered to bring a good starter over to install just to see if the seller wasn't selling a blown engine?

Depends on the vehicle, though you would probably need to look into a rebuild kit for the turbo or supercharger if it has alot of miles on it.

>just needs a starter. Is that usually true?

Given that I've purchased cars that were running, that still ended up having glaring issues that needed to be fixed (shoddy repairs, improperly installed parts) I would never ever buy a car that cannot be started on the simple fact that previous owners ALWAYS, even if they're not meaning to.

Always lie*

It has a touch screen and a Mercedes style knob, no buttons

Just took a load of about 300lbs across town in my trunk, noticed a sound coming from rear tires, sounds kind of like sex in a creaky bed. Took the load out, still sounds like bedsex. Matches vehicle speed. Is this just dead springs? Only have 50k on them

The truck also needed a bit of work to pass inspection and to run

Bought an older FWD car and its front tires look like this. I have new ones coming, and will obviously do an alignment as well, but what causes this weird wear? Is it ONLY out of alignment?

That and they look currently underinflated

Looks like they weren't rotated as often as should be.

When you turn the wheel driving the wheel will slightly camber out putting more pressure on the outside edge of the tire and reducing the contact patch. If the tire is not rotated the wear will become noticibly uneven over time.

usually toe causes that.

Danke

I want more power out of my c30 t5, heard some local guys saying that I should put in a bigger intercooler
The one that comes stock is tiny so would putting a bigger one give me some extra hp or just give me massive turbo lag?

I just got a BMW and I'm finding myself speeding and cutting people off without even thinking about it. Is there any way to stop from becoming the asshole beemer driver?

Sell your bmw

I can't. I love my car

embrace the BMW driver in you

whats a good 2/3 door car, small, less than a $1000 that is a good shitbox?

Twingo is obvious, anything else?

Needs to be a Hatchback.

Also im a Europoor.

can you elaborate, a meme answer doesn't really help me?

Funny coz when I drive a BMW I drive like a grandad and when I drive my Volkswagen i drive like a cunt

How do I go about installing a satnav, blue tooth, rear camera in this?

You can get adapters to fit a double-din stereo. I googled "20120 corsa sxi double din adapter" and there were a ton of results. Most newer double din screens come with bluetooth and inputs for backup cameras. You would just have to mount the camera to your trunk/rear bumper and run the cable all the way to the stereo. Or pay someone to do it.

US here. The way I see it, I can either:

I can buy an FD imported from the motherland for $20k with 40k miles and some "tasteful" mods

I can buy an FD here for $24k-28k with about 50k miles and some slight mods.

Other than having to get used to RHD, some extra paperwork, and the semi-fact that a Japanese mile equates to as much wear and tear as 1.3-1.5 Freedom miles, what's the better way to buy here?

MkIV Supras have a much bigger price disparity, but the RX7s are tighter

Is the installation complicated or is it doable by your average guy?

It has like 6 buttons, the knob, and a volume knob...what are you on about?

The car is sitting in my driveway brotato.

Funny, it kinda goes both ways here in MA. When my car is worth about 10k they'll value it at 5k and I can appreciate the savings. However they've valued one of my cars at 3k for the last four years or so and I know damn well it's worth 1k-2k.

Easy come, easy go

Nevermind I found the guide.

ukcorsa-d.com/forum/showthread.php?124906-Tutorial-How-to-Install-the-Double-Din-Cage-Fascia-(Connects2)

Hey Veeky Forums
Poor af ausfag here. Recently my area has been hit by some stupid storms. My current car (HRV) has a leak somewhere that turns my car into a mobile poo, and no matter my attempts to find it I've come up empty handed. In light I've decided that I need to just nut up my meager savings and grab a new daily commute. Which if these three is the better option?

>'01 lancer GLi, 223,000km, $700
Comes with a RWC already and is practically ready to grab and go. Looking to be best bet.
>'97 Lancer GLXi, 232,000km, $950
No RWC, it's got a driver's window motor that needs repairing (not sure how that'd effect getting a RWC).
>'04 Kia Rio LS, 120,000km, $1500
This is pushing the bank as I got $2000 to purchase and register a vehicle so I'd be scraping pennies. Comes with a RWC though.

Biggest deciding factors is distance, the '01 Lancer whilst looking like best bet is a good 3hrs drive away. And I'd need to grab someone for the drive to bring back my other car (unless I just ditch it at a wreckers up there somewhere and deregister it).

Both the other two are 1hr drive away in the opposite direction.

Thanks Veeky Forums, you guys have always been a huge help in the past for this auto-illiterate.

Can you blow a headgasket by redlining too much?

the 97 lancers are pretty awesome but you need to have humor for it. the 1.3l engine is so fucking slow that you can legally street race it because you won't pass the speed limit for a minute. i've had four 90's lancers all driven exactly 230k dunno what's the deal with that number. anyways, i could have added 200k on 3 out of 4 of them without extra problems apart from maybe a bad injector. the 1.6 is really powerful in comparison but sadly they only came with wagon lancers in my country. i regret selling all of them and crashing the wagon one.

can't recommend the 01 lancer because they're ugly but i bet it's the exact same car underneath

you're not going to destroy anything that's not breaking already. unless you're doing the civic revvv

Here's a link to the exact sound, but the guy never got an answer. Mine's not a Subaru, but same problem.

youtube.com/watch?v=m2aWK31aPiA&feature=youtu.be

wait... the glxi? you lucky bastards

Well the '01 is a 1.8 and the '97 is a 1.5.

If it's just the same car under the underneath, I'll probs just throw my money at the '01 as I just need a daily driver and it's the cheaper of the two and comes with the RWC.

Thanks for the help man, but in light of the storms up north the '01 mivht not be in shape to buy. Would the window motor kill me for a RWC? Otherwise it looks pretty decent, minus some TLC (oil change and fluids, she should be good.)

i forgot that aussies got to choose between engine sizes in their jap cars. the 1.6 is just a bored out 1.5 and i can assure you that it's a really good engine. especially in a car that weighs 1 ton

i've also taken out the window motor on the one i crashed and i don't think it will be a hard job to do at home even if you have no experience in auto repairs.
good luck finding your future car. just don't flip it unless you change your mind and get a galant. the lancer's A beams look flimsy like with all older cars

Thanks man, gonna go inspect the '97 tomorrow. Wish me luck man. If she drives nice and feels good I'll grab it right then and there

im looking to buy my first car and im leaning towards a a used luxury sedan. im looking to spend around 30k

what makes and models would you guys recommend i look into? i was originally looking into getting a lexus but they seem pretty plain, although i hear they are reliable

Finally got the head off my truck trying to track down the reason for no compression in cylinder 8. I have no reference as to what "good" valves look like, but these ones look a little...burnt? compared to what I've seen on google and ebay. From what I know the engine needed a new water pump before I bought the truck, so it's possible the engine overheated a few times and the head just warped a certain way or something. The pistons all look fine, if a little nasty from carbon build-up.

>2008 Caddy CTS for $7,4k @ 125k miles

autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=462859110

Is this any good? Carfax is putting it at $8k and I'll try lowball the price with the sales guy

Never owned a cadillac before, are they pain in the ass and draining wallet on maintenance and parts?

What would be a good starter bike gents? I have motorcycle safety classes this weekend and want to start riding soon.

>buy used car
>have my friend drive it back for me while I'm running an errand
>clutch is bad
>he revs it up to redline from every stop
>high revs in every gear, probably redline
>finally meet him back at my house
>says the engine was smoking on the way back

>he didn't bother to stop the car
>he just kept driving with it smoking
I should never, ever let people drive my cars, ever again.

He didn't say what color the smoke was, and I don't know if it was actually coming from the engine or somewhere else because I wasn't there.