Be honest, have you ever redlined your car?

Be honest, have you ever redlined your car?

also post what you drive.

I personally have never redlined a car and I drive a 2004 WRX.

I hate how responsible I am sometimes. I just can't bring myself to hoon

Other urls found in this thread:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanical_load
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Turbine_Car
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

>Be honest, have you ever redlined your car?
If I didn't redline it, it would carbon lock and die.
>rx8

Done it. Have a 2003 Toyota Camry mainly just on accident.

how can you not?

I've redlined my shitbox multiple times a day for 4 years straight

What's wrong with redline

A couple times mis-shifting into 3rd instead of 5th. I drive a base model Nissan Versa

yes, I drive pic related
eat shit non rotary fags

I rev my car at every intersection, every straight and every corner

>non rotary fags
>not using pistoncucks instead

>the absolute state of rotards

yes, multiple cars and my bike
had the to redline my first ecobox in 4th gear so it won't get slower on slight hills on the autobahn going WOT

By accident. You did it BY accident. Fuck, why do Americans suck so badly at language?

I said on accident..?

Retard.

>mfw run out of cams before redline

What the FUCK?! How is this a question?! How have you not done this?!!

And don't try jerking yourself off about how it's "responsible." You're just a massive pussy, sell the car to someone who isn't.

I've been driving for 13 years, am a mechanical engineer, and have redlined at least once over half of every time I go driving. I've had my current car 9 years, it has 230k miles, and I redline the piss out of it on a near-daily basis. It's seen 20-22 hours of track time doing WOT-to-redline every fucking shift, up to 4 hours a day and I've never had any issue with it.

I had an STi for 6 years (4 overlapping w/ current car), I tuned it to 19 psi and would redline every shift through the gears multiple times a day - no issue. I even datalogged it.

I just can't even....

Yes, frequently. It's called an Italian tune up

10 years later and the family hand-me-down Accord has less carbon buildup than what you'd expect for a car with similar mileage, seen through a borescope during a spark plug change
Our diesel Merceds needs to be driven near redline (4500rpm) for 10 minutes to keep the DPF clean

yes.
every time i overtake someone
every time I go enter a 100 zone from a 60 zone.
every time I merge on a freeway.

Why are Europeans such bitter little faggots? I’m starting to think you guys deserve all these rapefugees lol

>on car forum
>complains about someone's grammar so he can feel better about himself

What, bringing the speedometer to the red? No, why would I?

>be me
>buy miata
>feel like it's going to blow up redlining it
>sell it and buy a rx7 GSLSE
>literally recommended to rev the shit out of them to keep compression up
Stay mad pistoncucks

>OP believes there are people here other than himself who have not redlined their car

Shit, that FC TII looks SO good, user. Jealous

>non rotary fags
>>NON ROTARY FAGS
>>>N O N R O T A R Y F A G S

what wheels?

So... cars are engineered with a *massive* factor of safety. You can sit there bouncing off of the fuel cut doing donuts for 10 minutes straight and it'll be better for your car than lugging up a single hill in 5th gear at 35 mph.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanical_load

is that a trans am?
p clean, didn't knew they came with a turbo
mad jelly

I have to. Otherwise my dorito gets fucked

Looks like 350Z wheels.

wtf of course I have

That's how you get a feel for where the rev limiter is so you don't bang on it like a noob.

I'm also amazed at how many people don't understand this.
Once the engine is up to temperature, and the car is properly maintained, you should be able to take it and hang it out at redline all day.
Granted running your engine steadily at 6000rpm will friction wear the components twice as fast as 3000rpm will. But friction wear, if you have good lubrication, is almost negligible.

Just don't redline it before its warmed up. I've made that mistake almost DAILY and burned through like 4 quarts in 3000 miles. After that change and before that change, barely burned at all.

While tuning my car I had to do a 2000RPM to redline pull so I have redlined many times. Also, two track days with plenty of redlining.

>But friction wear, if you have good lubrication, is almost negligible.
Exactly, engines are well-lubricated and kept at a temperature range via cycling of radiated water. It's all about engine load, and in the hypothetical doing donuts I gave, there is very little load on the engine because the tires are spinning freely. The worst thing you can do to an engine (other than run it too hot or cold) is to shift so early that you have to use a lot of throttle to overcome your lack of power at that engine speed.

You can even buy something cheap like a ScanGauge (pic related in my old STi) that will tell you engine load on the fly, but really you should be able to feel it in the throttle, that pulsing resistance to acceleration.

And really, shocking the driveline is SO much worse than redlining all day. Lets say you WOT rev up to 5k, then go to 0% throttle for a sec, then instantly WOT again... Because your ECU is adjusting fuel ratios for deceleration, and because of the quick changes in momentum, going back to 100% throttle immediately after backing off will 'shock' the driveline causing abnormal wear on bearings, maybe even gearing, and will stress the con rods.

Man the fuck up and live life OP.

>ScanGauge (pic related in my old STi)
Here, now pic related.

2002 WRX

I run it up to redline every single day, mostly because turning left onto the highway I take to get to college is pretty much suicide unless you get up to 65 ASAP. People around here drive like retards and the only way to combat it with more retarded driving. If I was driving anything slower I'd probably wind up in a wreck because drivers here WANT to hit you when they aren't at fault and get the insurance claim. My dad's nearly been a victim of this several times on the same left turn, seems like people literally speed up/change lanes just to see if they can do it.

Besides burning oil because it hasn't reached the proper viscosity, that's how you excessively wear engine rings.
Especially on Subaru Boxer engines. So I need to watch out with my WRX every time I drive it. I even try to stay out of boost until the temp needle is almost in the center.

I don't think most people understand you cause shock on the trans AND shock on the rods and crank. Especially in boosted cars. With my WRX I try to progressively add throttle over the course of a second instead of just slamming the throttle down. Especially since it has a small turbo and builds 17psi in a half second when I'm above 3000rpm.
Launching a car that doesn't have a well engineered launch control is just brutal. Launch control often feeds in load quickly but it's all calculated and the ECU prepares the drivetrain the best way possible. Hence why I don't launch my Subaru unless it's the occasional race. Even then, if I think I'm up on power, I will launch the car very softly.

A redline a day keeps the carbon away. The old Italian tune-up is just part of my driving habits and autistic ongoing diagnostics.

I try not to bump the rev limiter in park or neutral but sometimes if I'm in an underground garage or any place with good acoustics, I'll roll my windows down after pulling in and being up the rpm just to listen. At 1650 rpm the loose heat shield I can't find rattles. At 3500 rpm something squeals so I'm hoping it's not VTEC solenoid. But if there is any new noise in want to hear as soon as possible and that requires to operate the engine at all rpms. Hence my redline a day keeps the carbon away policy.

took me a while to hit redline on my bike, new rider and all.

i've redlined every vehicle i've ever owned and a lot of vehicles i've ever been given keys to.

Yup. Redlines at 30mph in 1st, and about 63 in 3rd. Never taken this bucket over 90.

>tfw no tachometer

im scared to try, what if the car explodes

Very rarely just because of the power dropoff near the top end (peak is 6-6.5k)
Redline is 7k and fuel cutoff is 7.2k
>NA Miata

No reason to redline a turbo diesel what so ever so no

Yes
I drive an 08 Outback and I redline it regularly on the highway doing 110

A redline a day keeps the carbon buildup away.

Canadian here. That's the way it's said in North America, you fucking bong. Go lose another war and beg the Canadians and Americans to help you. Fucking fuck. Have fun taking Ahmed's cock in your ass when the next shipment of refugees arrive.

Brits are so fucking annoying

I've redlined my 59hp shitbox. It's unsatisfying as fuck though, because it's a tuned down variant of the 74hp and they accomplish this by cutting off the power curve at 5000 or so. The next 1k has no extra power.

Ok, now, you know about gearing, right? Gears multiply torque. Dynos are computer-adjusted to factor-out gearing.

Lets say your engine flywheel outputs these hp #s at these RPM(x1000)s:
>92 @ 4.5
>100 @ 5.0
>113 @ 5.5
>94 @ 6.0
>80 @ 6.5
>72 @ 7.0

Unless the gears were comically close together, shifting from 80hp @ 6,500 to 92 @ 4,500 will actually significantly lower your rotational work done (aka power) at the wheels and therefore your acceleration.

(me)
Now, you say you have an NA MX-5, well so do I coincidentally! I've had my '95 1.8L since Aug '08 and regularly beat the piss out of it. I will tell you:
1. There is no enormous drop in power to speak of (pic related).
2. You accelerate more quickly if you shift as close to fuel cut as you can.

I redline my r32 gtr everyday keeps it from spraying the inside of my garage door with carbon deposit each time I start it

Maybe women
Most women I know are scared to even rev above 3000

>2. You accelerate more quickly if you shift as close to fuel cut as you can.
To emphasize this, look at that dyno (a 1.6L and a 1.8L NA, both w/ catbacks and short rams):

Suppose you shift up right at the peak (114 @ 6,200) and the next gear lands you at 4,700. Not only will your flywheel be sending less power (~92) than you would even at redline (~98), but gearing also multiplies output at the wheels down. This is such a significant difference in acceleration that you may drop nearly 2 seconds off your 1/4-mile time by shifting just 750 before redline.

Also, just a courtesy to a fellow NA owner, check the tension in your throttle cable. Mine was so loose when I got it that there was a little slop in the pedal and it never fully got to wide-open throttle even if I put my foot down. Yours may already be in-spec, but my car got faster from that than by installing a full, catless exhaust.

Never tried it just for shits and giggles?

I redline every day. As most of my driving is just cruising @1200-2000rpm and the engine hates that I have to redline often (or that is what I tell myself)

Also it feels absolutely amazing to accelerate from 20 to 120 on third gear. To feel and hear engine go from low growl (1100 to 2600rpm) into waking scream of ancient raptor (2600 to 3700rpm) ending with ecotec opening fully and intensifying until 7000 rpm where motor redlines and shifts gears.

Did you change the throttle cable yourself

I've visited the limiter a few times, but haven't drove against the limiter ever.
I own a pair of 750 BMW's, an E32 and E38.

Had the PO hold it at redline for ten seconds before I bought it but have only tapped it myself doing stoplight pulls. Redline is very very loud but I've experienced first hand the phenomenon of cops ignoring that shit when it comes out of an American car. Of course thet ignore fart cannons too.

My car is cute when i redline it
Growls so aggressively even though it only produces 70bhp :3
Its like an angry puppy

PP3 2015 GT with a 7500 rpm red line, I hit it every so often in the summer.

I just used two normal wrenches to slacken the adjustment nuts, then you can screw the tube either left or right in that bracket, which loosens or tightens the cable.
If you lift the cable with one finger right where '1mm play' points to, and that spot in the cable moves more than 1mm in either direction, then you should tighten it. It takes less than a minute.

The only thing to watch out for is that you don't tighten it so much that it increases the revs at idle. So before you even check the cable, know what RPM your car idles at when fully warmed-up. Then if you tighten it, make sure that the idle revs didn't increase (didn't happen to me). If the warm-engine idle has raised then slacken the cable bit-by-bit until your idle is where it was.

I had ~3/4ths of an inch deflection each way... after tightening, my 1st WOT run surprised me a little after 4.5k or so.

Jesus Christ what are those wheels and ride height. You should be ashamed.

every time I hit the highway, 3500 RPM in 3rd gear at 48 MPH

Dad had Nissan Micra 1.2 K10 in the 90's and that had insanely throaty and angry sounds. As a kid I was seriously impressed by the gold color, leopard seats and angry sounds.

yeah 3rd to 2nd misshift at around 5k revs. sent it past redline

Frequently because my car isn't from 1972

mines from 1957 and it redlines all the fucking time, plus its factory original, not engine swapped

I redline my cars every week almost
Just go have fun, user, you would be surprised how even the economy trash that feels lifeless and boring can be when you find their powerband

Old cars have lower redline and are thus easier to redline.. what was your point?

just get one of these 22,000 RPM idle and 60,000 RPM redline, built in 1963
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Turbine_Car

Kek

I was seriously looking at that jet powered bike when it came out like a decade ago

yes, but I was in second and close to getting rear-ended by a truck
>S13 240SX

i drive a jetta so it sounds like shit and it's not fast, plus all the power is gone past 5.5k anyways

what's the point

I still like my truck, it doesnt break, 260 hp 350 v8 engine with 372 lb ft of torque and a powertrain that can handle in excess of 2500 hp, eg breaks traction with slicks before breaking drive train

Some older cars lack rev limiters, so you could seriously fuck up quite easily.

I drive an audi dieselshitbox diesels don't like redlines always shift a 2.5k

But they usually are designed by slightly competent people who aim to place the power band where you can safely use it. So there's a good chance you're not going to be redlining it until the power drops off, it feels and sounds all wrong, your feet hurt, and you'd rather be in a higher gear.

The rev range is so low torque ends at 2.7 k 3k max. It goes up to 5k but there's nothing there

my 50's jeep Go Devil engine doesnt have a fuel cut out, but the pump itself fails to deliver gasoline fast enough for the engine that it starves itself if you try to go faster than it can

kys stancefag

i redline everything I drive

...

both of my trucks just get valve float :D

Every day once warmed up. 06 Pontiac G6 GTP.

Shit, I feel bad about going to 5k and it redline around 8k.
>2014 mustang
That said, it's fun as hell going from 0-60.

IIRC he bought it like that. Not a huge fan of cobra reps myself but I can understand not spending money when it just werks. Also 4×4 1/4 wheel options are limited.

Yes, I redlined my mint '89 Celica showing it off to a buddy. I got home and I blew a power steering line, kek. I still haven't figured out where it is, probably the rack and pinion

OBSESSED

>ls swap thirdgen trans am
kek
when I redline I have 1000 rpm more before the shift light turns on

reddit

That is quite sturdy powertrain. My powertrain can handle about 260hp before commencing rapid unplanned disassembly or so I have read on forums.. my V6 outputs 220hp and I would like to have more but it starts to be a bit too small margin for gearbox with 300k on it.

Bounce off the limiter 24/7
Step up OP, you have a serious case of the gays

muncie dump truck gearbox, has straight cut gears, 5 inch diameter driveshaft and full floating rear axle

ls Integra

no meme-tec but she still loves giving out till bounce

I do it pretty often, just make sure it's warmed up first.

Hey, I also have an ecotec. Surprisingly good sounds for a 4 banger. The banshee scream from 5500 and up is the best.

there isn't a redline, there is just a point where the driveline vibrations become too uncomfortable to continue accelerating

Jealous of your T2 user


I redline my 86 GXL everytime I drive her.

there's a twisty track that has no reason to change gears.
You get in second you stay there. You redline on two straights and bounce off of it for a second or a half depending on how the corner before that was.

98 tacoma and 94 civic

I have hit the fuel cutoff numerous times on both. I did it a lot in my tacoma when it had a burnt exhaust valve and was only running on 3 cylinders. you were WOT banging gears just to keep up with traffic in that thing.