Agricultural machinery thread

i can finally use this image

someone please photoshop that piece of shit weight on a cross

I dislike articulated tractors. They don't line up with shit properly, and you need to make them wiggle around to connect to shit.
AND IT DOESN'T HAVE A FRONT HITCH REEEE

Considering switching from sugarbeet to potatoes. The potato harvester is cheaper, even though it has a narrower working width and I'd need another sower for it. And I'd end up using an expensive sower less, since I got that primarily for sugarbeet, as well as the corn I grow for silage.
But since I'm leasing the root harvester right now anyway, I can switch without issue.

how big is the surface you work and how much do you get for sugarbeet?

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>tfw working pea season at delmonte
i love this baby, second year driving it, not the best harvester but she can get a hopper full before the newer ones

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Have more on my desktop I’ll dump later

what happened?
also, go magnum, they have one where my parents work: 13k hours since '93 and it's still going.

The landlords of where I grew up had a Kubota very similar to this one. I got to drive it often and it was pretty exciting every time. They mostly used it to bucket horse shit since they were breeders and boarded too. After a rain we would use it to scrape the arena or the corals. The best was when we’d use it to rip tree stumps out of the ground though. Do Earthmovers count as agricultural machinery? I’ve always wanted to operate one of those

Right now, one big field and two smaller ones. Potatoes fetch more per tonne, though.

I can't believe that agco unironically make an inline 7

fendt will be making fendt versions of challenger's rogator self-proppelled sprayers and challenger tracked tractors. agco is really stepping up their game

but the new ideal harvester sounds nice, i'm actually very curious about the new system that attaches the header to the harverster very fast

how much per tonne for potatoes?

Neighbours combine, chopper bearing got hot and started the fire. Was standing like 300ft away and could still feel the heat coming off it.

My magnum is a 96 7240 with about 8500 hours. Great tractor but it’s starting to burn some oil so might be time for a rebuild.

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Why do the axles stick out like that on tractors? So you can duals later? Seems like you could get it caught on something.

IH 656, 1086 and 966. They don’t get used much anymore but we’re my grandfathers so I keep em around and keep dumping money into the damn things

So you can adjust the width and also for adding duals. Clamp on duals don’t really need any extra axle but the bolt ons do. Yes they do occasionally hit things. Generally not an issue but with some tractors they do stick out really far and when 2 tractors meet on a road bad shit can happen. Worst I’ve done is hit the edge of the shed door

>how much per tonne for potatoes?
It varies, but it's like £50 more at the current level. Not sure what the difference in yields is.

I'll have to pull the game up to check, really.

and also so they have the same wheel track as the harvesters, sprayers, and other machinery. That is important because vehicle tires compact the soil, and soil compaction is bad if you want to grow things in it. So you limit it to certain bits of the field so it can't hammer your yield, and so you don't crush bits of your crop.

we only use our johnny track machine for doing irrigation.
one of pic.

of course its not good for driving down the road.
thing tops out at 30km/h.

That harvester would be fucking usless on a hill and it looks like it is only a single row.
whats the benefit to these over a towed harvester?

>like £50
wow wtf thats way low.
for crop 13, crop 17, sebago and dutch cremes we average around $600 per tonne.

>drive forwards
>works just like a tractor

>rotate cockpit 180 degrees and drive "backwards"
>can now be used as a forklift or harvester with respective attachments

Fucking love it.

A B S T R A C T O R

How many of you fags have driven a tractor before?

Cat 1 need not apply.

i drive a 6830, 7200, 7230r, 8345r and 8300t.

I've only driven one of the older Kubota M5 series, just hobby farm stuff, logging, moving large amounts of dirt and rocks, grading driveway, clearing brush, etc.

I assume you actually work on a proper farm?

£50 more than for sugarbeet.
But, again, this is Farming Simulator, not actual farming. While I'm from a family of farmers, I am too middle-class to be one.
And, frankly, my grandparents farmed chickens and my great-uncle is a hill farmer. Not much call for heavy machinery in either. For sheep, you just need a pickup with a trailer, and a quad bike for transporting your dog around.

Why not just have a front hitch and PTO, and mount the harvester thingy on the front?

Oh hey guise

Traded for a 68 cub cadet today

Can I play?

Need something to landscape on an acre of land. Mowing, home gardening, that kind of thing. What do you recommend?

Because you can't see the ground in front like you can under the cab on the rear.

i've driven pretty much everything except articulating because i have no need for one(only 300 acres) and they aren't all that common around here. the newer ones with air suspension are pretty fucking comfy but i hate all the electronics

a compact. JD or Kubota would be your best bet. can have a loader, mower, 3pt backhoe and a bunch of other shit. fucking expensive tho, you can buy a used 60-90hp utility tractor for the same price but that'd likely be too big

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I was looking at the 1 family from John Deere. I'll keep an eye out. The other thing I'm considering is just rent one twice a year then buying a straight up mower.

if you wanted to go that route then you might be better off buying a decent mower then a cheap old utility tractor. would definitely be cheaper then a compact and a lot heavier so far more capability with the loader or any 3pt attachments you use(snow blade, box scraper ect)

the old IH stuff is all pretty good but i wouldn't get anything older then maybe mid 70s due to parts availability. JD is good for pretty much all years and even Ford made some good shit but i'm not sure how they are for parts availability these days. really comes down to your budget, newer shit will be better due to most having quick attach for your loader, parts availability and are generally more comfortable to operate. also beware of leaking fluids, can get very expensive to fix depending where it's coming from. combine engine oil pan gasket cost me $2200 to get changed because the entire engine has to be pulled out

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That's a problem that can be solved with a camera, or even some mirrors.

Thank you. This is great information.

A camera and side mirrors doesn't give you a real world undistorted view from side to side.
For GET that's more or less set and forget a camera is fine, but for a GET that needs constant input and adjustment they don't really work.

get on my level

Pic taken in the last 5 minutes, about 10 yards away from where I am.

1940 Farmall H

yeah they are pretty good as long as you have a firetruck in the field with you

I don't get it, you're on the same google image level as the other guy anyway?

FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT

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For duals and you could also be seeing the planetary gears like in the front axle. It's for torque multiplication.

Spread cow/pig shit for a while AMA. Lost all my pictures unfortunately it was a while ago.

planetary gears generally don't stick out much, certainly not as much as the axles.

i usually run the 972 wheel loader

my favorite is the mini ex that we have in our fleet, thing is so damn handy.

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it's more accesible, like you can buy a towed cheaper, and maintenance is cheaper.
but, you can't cover very large areas with a towed one, and you also need to have a tractor with a certain power treshold.

it really depends on what you need.

anyone like claas harvesters? do amerifags use them a lot, besides the ones made in collab with challenger?

i like this commandor, i even rode one when i was a kid, back when the farm my parents work for had only a 116cs and a 96 dominator

You're confusing real life for a video game

Specialisation, and the header in front means you're not trampling your crop with tractor wheels before it's harvested.
Otherwise, real-world economics means harvesting is done by a specialised company, that comes to your fields and harvests your shit with their specialist machinery.

Work at a company that owns a lot of aggregate and asphalt plant facilities, we have a few 972 series loaders, got offered to drive one one time, but had to go somewhere, damn.

I've inherited a '89 Landini 8870 with 5k hours, is it time for a engine rebuild?

Also, what sort of oil should I put in the front wheel reducer (see pic)? Engine oil? Gear oil?

>5k hours
>engine rebuild
Unless it's suffered a failure and has otherwise irreparable internal damage, no.

Ok, but according to a local mechanic I shall at least take the head off to change tha gasket and check valvles.

...maybe take the rocker cover of and check clearances, but unless a compression test comes back inconsistent, there's absolutely no reason to take the head off. Kind of sounds like your local mechanic wants to book you up with a few grands worth of work.

This. This and this

Good.
I am only going to use it to collect firewood anyway

One of my customers still uses pic related.

but does it hold up tho

We used to have a Fordson Super Dexta like pic related.
Really fast little tractor, but years of neglect had taken its toll on it.
We had nowhere to seriously repair it, so we sold it and bought a New Holland TD3.50.
That little fucker is quite strong. drivers like a car, but it's built for 80 pound rice farmers and pajeets, nowhere near enough space to put my limbs and gut.

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I've driven machines with 30,000 hours that had 0 work, 5k hours is baby level shit.

Not a tractor but a working van story

>Friend has hiace with 5l engine
>Develops stereotypical 5l knock
>Friend is completely freaked out by it with his mechanic saying it needs a rod bearing refurb
>We are all pointing out the hundreds of 5ls on the road that have been knocking since 1998 and to leave it unless it gets really bad
>He caves in and puts it into the shop
>Gets it back and one week later it it gets completely wrecked
>Mechanic did not tighten all the rod bolts properly
>Guy tries to defend himself legally and in the mean time our friend has to buy a new 5l on his own dime because it is his every day tool van
>A police man would have to put aside 100% of his wages for 10 months to afford a used 5L engine in this country.

Sometimes it is better to leave well enough alone.

Especially diesels, once you open them up they are never the same.

It really depends. A good machine shop rebuild can be worth it when they do it properly but you get what you pay for at that point.

A mechanic on the other hand will almost always never get it back totally right

He’s trying to fuck you. At those hours an inspection would be worth it and likely new injectors unless that’s already been done at some point

Lots of those around here. They seem pretty solid and are cheap hp these days.

>all these posts
>this youtube.com/watch?v=9yHl24QynOM hasn't been mentioned

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