/ccg/ - Classic Car General

Just got done installing a new dist and wires

Ill be posting from a car meet i went to, along with some questions.

So ive decided to buy a set of crager 330s (15") for the impala, and im trying to go for 30" tires in the back. What are some suggested sizes? Also, is there any way to lift the back up other than air ride?

riverwind casino is gone lol

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Other than the ones posted, nothing else than the same c7s and new camaros/challengers

Alrighty guys.
The fuck is this thing?
It’s not hooked up to anything and...

It has an off/on switch that says something about fuel.

It’s on a 1966 Ford Falcon (w/170) for reference.
The radiator seems to have a pipe that goes right down next to it but isn’t long enough to reach it.

It also is below the radiator instead of above it like most overflow tanks.

Why would someone do such a thing?

It also leaks green shit when you open the valve.

Work has resumed on the 93 Probe GT. I pulled my CEL codes had 15, 16, 17, 23, 24, 25, 41 which is O2, EGR, O2, O2, O2, VRIS1

I'm down to just the 16 which is EGR, no big deal. Car definitely has more power now. Added strut tower braces, will be putting the interior back together this week. I also added bronze shifter bushings and that feels better too.

The rear O2 was a monumental pain because the nut was seized so I ended up having to cut the wire and put a deep well 22mm socket on a 1/2" breaker bar and I was able to slowly get it off, had to drop the subframe bracket but it worked. She's slowly coming back together to her former glory, and once I finish all of the neglected maintenance I will begin the engine build, looking at a 12:1 build with ITBs, Megasquirt and 12,000rpm, 6-speed Fusion trans with Quaife LSD and straight cut gears possibly n2o

Hell yea bro, there's one around here with an SVO swap

Thanks m80s. It's basically bone stock with an aftermarket muffler. Has the 2.9l v6 and manual. I wanna put a 5.0 in it whenever the motor blows but it's been taken care of and only has 170k on it. I've heard of some people reaching 400-500k on the 2.9s without a rebuild but who knows if it'll get that far

Luckily my late grandmother gifted me a '98 Toyota Camry for a daily yet even with that and 1 project, sometimes I wonder if spending money on a car that may not even end up being driven on public roads legally is a smart thing to do. Especially when the whole idea of home ownership comes to mind every so often... Basically, I'm trying to be realistic about the whole situation while not loosing my passion for automotives. Hope that helps some how MOPARTS. Sometimes we've got to weigh things up and see what is viable and what's not...

Might have been some nigger rigged return system

Much thank user.
Would that explain the green shit?

VY. May need a new fuel pump or something, had an episode the other day when the motor cut out while driving. Yet to have it scanned for a code.

what's the green shit look like? is it murky green like coolant or clear like gas?

boi

You tell me.
It looks a lot like gas but doesn’t smell like it.

That's not gas. Old shitty gas turns reddish brown. Most likely coolant

Got it, thanks user.
Finally figured out some shit regarding my Torino as well.
It’s looking like the problem it the starter.

It’s cranking ridiculously slow and then clicks and won’t try again.
I had redone the distributor connections, checked each and every spark plug, made sure there were no leaks in the gas line AND ensured the carb was okay.

It seems to be the only potential problem that could produce the same symptoms.

Make sure the grounds for your battery and the connections to the starter are good. Slow cranking could also be vapor lock, does it get worse as the car heats up?

Meant to say does it crank even slower after the car's hot

A fucking Magna ?
How many of them do you see on the roads here hardly any because they are shit and not worth fixing. And I'm in Adelaide where there is no regular RW inspections.
Don't but some one else's problems

My classic. Myers Manx

Classic 1980

Finally had some time to work on the 64 today. I wanted to install new bumpers but didnt buy mounts because I didn't realize how bent they were.
Old bumpers back on, next is finishing the radio and putting the front bench back in.

Nope, it doesn’t.
It’s just fucking slow.
And i’ve Gone in and opened things up every once in a while when it refuses to start to ensure it’s not hydro-locked or the likes.

That wouldn’t be a ford inline six, would it?

yup.
300 I6.

bump

Replacing a wheel cylinder and cleaning out the adjusters... hope to actually have stopping power and to stop leaking brake fluid.

is that a 90 model bronco xlt with 5.8 351 engine, and the e40d trans? i have one sitting at home waiting on me to take it for a drive when i get back. just replaced the damned computer in it and gonna make that fucker run like a propper boss badass truck muwhahahaha

Nope. It's actually an '89 Bronco Eddie Bauer with 5.0L V8 mated to 4 spd AOD transmission. I need to rebuild the engine, too. Getting all of like 4 psi at hot idle with 20W-50. Bearings are gooooone.

Assuming that's your trucc, how are broncos in terms of reliability? Are there certain engines or years I should steer clear of? How about Bronco IIs? I'm batting the idea of a Bronc around as my next car in a few years.

Omg it stops so much better now... and i just calculated my mpg, and it gets better milage than my I4 2017 taco!

bronco IIs are basically rangers. theyre pretty good if a bit unsafe due to the old design. i want one for offroading but theyre hard to find here

Honestly, the main reliability issue at this point is simply age. Even the very last production year of Bronco is more than 20 years old now. The major issues you'll be facing are rust, especially over the rear wheel arches like on mine, and previous owner neglect. And you should expect that these trucks have been somewhat neglected because 'it's a truck, not a Ferrari!' That being said, there are some common issues on these trucks, regardless of previous owners. The big one is TFI module failure. They're mounted on the dizzy, at least on my MY Bronco, and they're sensitive to heat. So, after about an hour of driving in Florida, truck just dies because of that stupid design choice. Solution is a remote mount. Ezpz to do. Most repairs are ezpz as well, in part because the thing is so big and rides so high. Even the FI system is easy to figure out. There's also a stupid Ford thing where the vacuum lines are these thin plastic things that over time get brittle as fuck and break. Replaced all of mine with rubber hose and had no issues. Took half an hour. I don't know a thing about Bronco IIs, though, except for that they're prone to rolling over and I'm just not a fan of their styling. For Broncos, parts are easy to find, cheap, and easy to replace if they do fail. If you do buy one, make a post here and I'll send you a copy of the factory service manual and some other literature I've picked up.

Yeah, safety is why I'll probably never get the II. I really like the aesthetic, but I really don't want to die.
I'm trying to avoid the rust issue by searching in the south, results are mixed.
>TFI module
I think my stepbrother was complaining about his old F250 having issues with this.
>repairs are ezpz
This was a huge draw for me, my current car has a pretty cramped engine bay, even putting more freon in it was a bitch. Between that and parts reliability, I'm hopeful. I'll probably need to drop more money than necessary to get a decent looking one though.

>put engine on CL
>state that its out of veh. and I never tried fucking with it
>get text "does it run?" "can I hear it run?" "is there something wrong with it?"
>send picrelated
>get angry replies

Anyone in the midsouth need a AMC small bell 232? I'm tired of craigslist cancer.

my mum's 5.0 in her truck was doing the same thing and loosing oil pressure at throttle

oil pump driveshaft is like a pencil shape and strips out, it's worth a look if you plan on keeping it

Already replaced the oil pump and had a look at the driveshaft for it. It's the bearings. I pulled the main cap of the one furthest from the pump and was greeted by a scored crank and a chewed up bearing. I estimate 2 years of life left before it fails catastrophically.

oh well just send it then lol

>It's perfectly acceptable to use RTV silicone

All I want is a 78 bronco with a four speed

hold me Veeky Forums

Not this shit again.

Fucks will use RTV to make a seal where the existing one was shit, whether it's bad stock design or old age. If it's happened to one of your vehicles get your preferred gasket kit and scrape out the RTV then replace it. Granted you get stuff like that one OP image a while back where the diff was almost dripping RTV around the cover, but tards gonna tard.

>If it's happened to one of your vehicles get your preferred gasket kit and scrape out the RTV then replace it.
Thats much better, faggot!

got the back springs swapped out with some junkyard shiz i order off car-part. ho-lee shit its like night and day. also don't got to worry about dropping the back axle from bottoming out on dips.

oops, forgot muh pic

I used RTV when the timing chain cover gasket (both the regular gasket and pan gasket thats like 1" thick rubber) on my old camaro and it held up just fine. It was a shit ton of it though.

I understand your pain 110%

I did it! The boat anchor is out and will never slow down another T/A ever again! or something I dunno, I ended up accidentally busting the tranny pan (pic related in next post) plus the freight company delivering my motor is being total dicks by not delivering it on time. Thankfully I was greeted with a pretty clean engine bay with minimal rust and shit I need to fix Overall I'm pretty excited.

here is the gore from a busted transmission pan. Still a mystery to me what I did or how it happened but it happened.

Just picked up this cutie for 3K.
400 4bbl
Turns over but doesn't like to accelerate.

Just bought a 92 myself, which I guess just barely counts

Damn that thing is clean

3k for a '74 Charger? Holy shit user, you got a great deal.

>that pic
sides in orbit

Poor guy got married, had a few kids and no time. I guess his wife wanted it out of the yard, so I guess I lucked out.

Nice!

as someone from the 70s those cars sucked ass. big heavy and slow

True, but if the dukes of hazard taught me anything, It's the one car that squeals on dirt.

Nice! Looks really clean too. What motor?

Nah, you don't want that 351/400 Modified, though.
Windsor or 302.

Can someone tell me what this thing is? It's hooked up to the manifold vacuum port on my carb

Looks like the pullchain off a lamp, I don't think that part's stock. It's probably juryrigged to that solenoid, meant to pull a cable or something attached to that bracket on the right edge of the pic.

Finally got my drive shaft back, hopefully it is not long/short this time... I'm sure it will vibrate like a squirrel on meth...

That's the part of the cruise control that modulates the throttle. The pullchain is stock lmao

It's a vacuum diaphragm for a cruise control setup.

I wonder if this is a classic?

How do you guys store your car for the winter? I was just going to unplug battery and throw a cover over. But I've read that you should put plastic/rubber mat underneath

3.0, and manual.

Thanks. Didn't expect that at all lmao. Thought it was done kind of horn

nice, you got the best motor in those
the wheel arch rust is REAL. I live in Oklahoma which isn't a rust problemic state in the least and my rear left arch is fucked by rust.

Another problem Broncos have is they absolutely demolish gas because IME the throttle electronics (like the idle air allow) and the O2 sensor go bad.

When those go bad, it burns so rich it can stain your clothes like cig smoke just from getting in and out of it.

coke bump

is it worth getting a toyota pickup or nissan hardbody for a daily driver? would it be reliable if i got a well kept one with around 100k?

Back to the drawing board. Thought i had the brake system on my 67 impala fixed, but i keep losing fluid from the rear resivoir in the master cylinder. (Rear, smaller one is front brakes, right?) I just cant seem to find where the fluid is going! And to top it off, im noticing gas randomly leaking out by the rear passenger tire (ill have it on a lift tomorrow, hopefully something minor), and the rear main seal leak has gotten worse.

Oh, and im noticing coolant is disapearing from the new radiator; no smoking, oil is black (i know, need to change it, but its not milky or anything), and i cant find any leaks?

I guess it just doesnt want to keep any fluid in.

Yes to both. The old tacos are pretty cool, and the 22re is bullet proof if you maintain it right. My dad had a hardbody when i was a kid, 1st truck i ever "drove" (sat on his lap and steered), it survived god know how many years of weekend warrior work, construction, a few wrecks, a rambunctious child, and 200k hard miles... looked like crap, but im sure its chugging along in mexico still.

Nice job, I just paid $800 for a set of those 15 inch turbines.

bamp

my Trans am had a disappearing fluid issue, Could be your intake manifold gaskets letting coolant

>spiffy old model Clarion head unit up for auction at goodwill for cheap
>I can get rid of my chink ricer unit that's stuck on demo mode now

I drive an 88 conquest, nice to see posters with some old school mitsus.

Junkyard had a special so I pulled 2 HEI distributors and coils to tinker

I didn't see the angular bit with the 4 wires everyone has pictures of, is that inside the GM distributor?

So can I wire these up to work or do I need other ones?

Where can I find the other ones? older cars?

So I'm trying to get this pos carb to work. It was stumbling a bit under light acceleration so I took it off and cleaned it up good and did a rebuild. Put it back in today and now that stumble is 10x worse, so bad that when I give it a bit of gas it doesn't accelerate at all, just stalls. But if I punch it, it'll accelerate kinda normal. I've checked the floats and they're good, choke is open, accelerator pump is working normally, and it's tuned so it at least idles decently. I know it's gotta be the carb since that's the only thing I've touched. What else could be doing this? I'm starting to think I should just toss this carb and pay out the ass for a brand new one

For the brake fluid, park it somewhere clean and pump the brakes a bunch of times. Then look around for a puddle or at least a leak somewhere. Also make sure it's not coming out of the reservoir