Car has problem idling

>car has problem idling
>start it up on a whim and check the engine bay
>it's literally just the MAP line dangling free after I changed a different sensor and knocked it loose
>jumps up to a smooth 700RPM immediately when reattached

Five minute fixes thread? Five minute fixes thread.

>shitbox goes into limp mode
>check sensors
>knock sensor wire melted on extractors
>bridge the connections with a piece of coat hanger wrapped in electrical tape
>still working 4 years later.

I wish mine was that easy.

>idling rough
>start fidgeting
>break plastic parts
>replace plastic parts and some ancillary jsut because
>break those plastic parts
>check every sensor
>still no fix

>sell car to kid who needs a 4 door for his spawn
>1997 Legacy/Liberty wagon, EJ22E/ auto
>likes car, puts money down, drives it home
>calls the next day "car isnt running right, wont go up a big hill over 35 mph"
>start up car
>"i did my own oil change today and then this started"
>runs like ass, throws cyl 2,3,4 miss, cyl 1,2,3 injector open codes
>open hood. track popping to drivers side bank.
>touch injectors, maybe one crapped out?
>plug wire is sitting on the cam cover
>shut off, plug wire in, no more popping, runs good, no more issues
car illiterate people i s2g
oh thanks user i must have popped it out when i was doing the oil change

Never worked on a subaru (sold that rusty shitbox asap) is that even possible to knock out a plug wire while doing an oil change?

And good on you for helping the guy, most people change their number after you buy their car.

No. Plug wires go from the coils top center of the engine into the heads. Oil fill cap is right up front by the radiator. Filter is on the bottom right next to the oil pan.

>truck develops slight intermittent miss
>open hood, plug wire laying against header
>rotate 360 degrees and close hood

My dad is an independent subaru mechanic for 22 years, and i have been rebuilding salvage cars since i dropped out 6 years ago, so my frame of reference may be a little skewed.

is it possible? if your a fucking idiot, yes. the oil fill cap is about 4" away from the wires, i mean if you grabbed something when you slipped, sure. but really its unlikely.

Subarus are honda levels of easy to work on and if you buy them from idiots who fall for the head gasket meme you can get a reliable awd car for >$500 US and the cost of a gasket kit (Around $280 in burgerland)

in addition to this
i have a small dealership and a lot of my customers are BHPH financed. if i could change my number i fuckin would, 100+ people a month bothering you? fuck that...

heres a picture of an EJ22E, if the wires are too long or poorly routed yeah maybe its lose enough to knock out if you carelessly take of the oil fill cap. but really im not sure if the dude is just not car smart or if he was fucking with me to see if i would come fix his shit if it was broke.

>car shifts very roughly and only at high RPMs
>open hood
>vacuum hose on the engine has rotted away
>replace hose
>car shifts like new

>old shitbox 94 accord
>a/c not getting completely cold
>honda mechanic couldn't figure it out
>I decide to take another look at it myself
>check hot water valve
>it's stuck open partially
>wala

You mean the heater core valve? Shouldn't your blend door make that a non-issue? On jeeps the heater valve is often deleted.

Idk I noticed when I turn the heat on all the way and back to cold again the valve would sometimes stick open slightly. Got ice cold after closing it.

>Driving home from OK to TN
>hear whirring noise
>over an hour it slowly gets worse
>suspect wheel bearing
>in the middle of the Ozarks AKA deserted shithole with no auto stores
>loud whirring now joined by rattling
>pull over
>turn signal fell through wheel well and got fucking ate by the tire

>Driving in the middle of the Mojave desert alone in my cherokee XJ
>oil pressure goes to 0
>dontpanic.exe
>tap oil pressure sending unit with a stick
>fixed

Also:

>bought cheap e30 318is slicktop in great condition, barely any rust and pristine interior
>previous owner couldn't get it to run right
>tow it home
>put the spark plug wires back in the right order

>>Driving in the middle of the Mojave desert alone in my cherokee XJ
>>oil pressure goes to 0
>>dontpanic.exe
>>tap oil pressure sending unit with a stick
>>fixed
What did you do about your coolant temp sensor lead
I'm thinking just crimp it with pliers, it's on there loose as all fuck

Extra epoxy and a screw container. New lens aww yeah fuck you inspection, I do happen to have an unbroken plastic shield over the bulb so suck my dick.

*you're

>not having your coworker pass it even though it fails in like four ways

Oh trust me the reverse lights being on a separate on/off switch in the first place already requires a ... Uhh... Friendly local inspection station. And the lack of e brake.

>And the lack of e brake.
I have no idea what happened to mine.
Also i just pretend that the reverse lights aren't a thing. I don't know what's wrong with them. Probably the NSS.

I know exactly what happened to mine.

The bracket had rusted loose and was jingling as I went over bumps. I cut the cable right at the back plate and put a ball of jb weld there so when you pull the lever, there's increasing resistance and a light lights up on the dash.

But no braking action.
"It just doesn't grab too hard" was the line i used.

Fucking lmao.
The dude I had do it just looked at me and asked "how illegal do you want me to do this" and I said "just pass it, man." That sounds mean but it was more of a dejected tone indicating I'd figure it out later and I just need the thing back on the road.
We also thought the headlights were malfunctioning at the time, but I had simply forgotten how to operate them because I'm an idiot. Later on though when I tired to diagnose the problem, I DID break them somehow and I had to take the lamps off the relay harness and go back to the factory wiring, which made them quite a bit dimmer. And then I found out there was some kind of short in the splice connecting the right front turn signal. I just played with it until it worked.

I still need to figure out what the hell is wrong with my e-brake and reverse lights. I want them to work.

>finally get around to pulling CEL codes
>O2's, VRIS and EGR
>change both O2s, plug the first VRIS solenoid back in
>EGR still throwing a code but whatever
>car has power now and doesn't get 15mpg anymore with a 2.5L V6

total 10 minutes wrench time

>cel says that rear O2 sensor needs replacing
>jack car up, attempt to remove
>sensor is so rusted in place from >15 year old car
>yank on it a bunch, cant get it off
>give up, lower car
>start it up
>drive it around a little
>CEL goes away


>CEL reappears 400 miles later

Guess i gotta take my friend up on his offer to let me borrow his impact gun

Nigger just check to make sure the heater is working properly. You might not need to replace it, test the O2 heater relay. And even then you should try using a blowtorch or heat gun to loosen it before you take an impact to a fuckign sensor.

The heater died on the front one, and the CEL was actually for the heater circuit. Replaced it and worked perfect.


The back one is getting Error codes 420 and High Voltage.... i dont think that is heater circuit.

Okay fine.

Still, don't use an impact on a sensor.

Even when getting it out?

Heat it and use a breaker bar.

>buy car from some dude
>he says the rear right wheel bearing is making noise
>it's just the sheet metal brake shield bent inwards and rubbing on the rotor
>bend it back and everything is fine

top kek

PB blaster, do it a few times 3-4 hours apart
if the rust is really that bad, take a wire brush and brush of what rust you can. don't breath the fumes or rust dust.
after you bursh off whatever rust you can, squirt some more pb on the base where it screws in. should break loose witha bit or elbow grease

*a bit of

Just had this last week after I already pressed in a new bearing

good thing it wasnt the new bearing

>Starting car for first time in easily 5 years.
>Wont start.
>Try again, slam gas pedal to floor.
>Chugs to life.
>Problem 1 fixed.

>Idling rough.
>Idle dips to 800 and jumps to about 1k.
>It wants to die.
>Stop the car.
>Start it again, very easily this time.
>Idles fine.
>Problem 2 fixed

My 5 minute fixes were literally turning it off and on again. Fucking Kraut space magic.

Mine did this when I I verified beyond the shadow of a doubt it was bad and cut the wire off the end of the sensor. I was able to fit a deep well 22mm socket over it and with a breaker bar got it off. It was a tight fit but I made it work.

It's too bad I'm still getting like 20mpg because I can't stay off the pedal lol

>car with 42k miles
>factory touch screen radio wont work right
>cant control AC, radio and bluetooth
>check fuses and pressed them all in
just in case.
>fixed.

>car throws codes randomly, airbag light, esp light, engine light and something else
>clean alternator cable/connector
No problem for a month now

>>Driving in the middle of the Mojave desert alone in my cherokee XJ
>>oil pressure goes to 0
>>dontpanic.exe
>>tap oil pressure sending unit with a stick
>>fixed

I nearly shit my pants the first time my WJ did that

>car starts rough
>can't figure it out, install new o2 sensor
>car runs like shit now
>replace old o2 sensor
>still runs like shit
>welp
>been promising new plug wires for the last year or so
>for shits and giggles resistance test plug wires
>cylinder #2 has immeasurable resistance when bent
>replace set
>car runs better

>car has never had a five minute fix, only five hour

Anyone else know THAT feel?

>car runs like shit
>triple duct tape vacuum leaks and zip tie everything
>car runs fine

>other car runs like shit
>clean intake, sensors and throttle body
>forget to plug some vacuum hoses back on
>car runs perfect
>put hoses back
>car runs like shit again

>got my first shitbox going to do an oil change this is going to be great, even bought royal purple for it like an idiot
>mechanically retarded and this is the first thing i ever have done
>proceed to try everything i can for like 1.5hrs, rubber gloves, rubber glove inside the oil filter socket but its too stripped to even fit
>say fuck it and just stab a screwdrive through the housing to get leverage that doesnt work
>get one of my dads 20lb 2ft long pipe wrenches to break it lose
>it works

Fuck oil filter housings, why can't it have been a spin on.

>buy a car
>find out is has some sever electrical issues
>try in vain to diagnose the cause
>notice my ECU case has dried mud on it
>replace it
>no luck
>install a h/o alternator
>car drives absolutely fine for 7 months
>start having issues again
>replace the alternator again
>burns out in literally 10 minutes
>replace the battery and alternator
>alternator dies again immediately and the battery dies as well
>this entire week ive been driving to and from work on literally just batteries
>about to give up
>willing to try anything at this point
>end up noticing some silicone on my plug for the alternator
>butwaittheresmore.jpg
>got to the junkyard to grab a spare plug
>car died on the side of the road
>fuck it
>unplug the harness and pull it out of the loom
>found the cause of literally all of my problems
>some retarded took the time to solder the wires backwards and heat shrink them as well
>fix the fires
>car runs absolutely fine


>hundreds of dollars and many times stranded on the side of the road all because some dude took the time to splice wires the right way and did it fucking backwards

What confuses me more than the backwards wires is the fact that my car was working absolutely fine, and made multiple 400 mile round trips on a h/o alternator despite the wiring problem.

i really need to proofread my posts

> Car makes horrible noises while going over bumps.
> Turn up stereo

>warped rotor on the front left of my car
>makes horrible oscillating squeek sound until you hit the brakes
>simply have my passenger window rolled up at all times and i am none the wiser

Front right i meant.

Fucking me
I wanted to fix an exhaust leak on my rx7 and thought I'd just need to unbolt the precat and slip a new gasket on, (gasket had blow itself out somehow and left a big hole in the joint
Fuck no
>find out the bolts were welded in place by some fucking idiot
>grab hand saw to cut it off in between the joint
>nope.wav
>recicropating saw with carbon steel blade
>tryagain.webm
>say fuck it and pull off the whole assembly, maybe I can beat in half with a hammer
>works
>take it to friends and use his grinder to cut it apart
>success.rar
>beat all the shit out of it since it was plugged up really bad
>drill out holes and bolt it together
>get my big 3 inch pipe i made for it out of scrap i had
>all is well
>try to bolt it into the header
>strip the fuck out of the built in bolts
Fuck this shitbox

>doing oil change
>notice O2 sensor on exhaust is a little loose, not perfectly threaded and kinda wiggly, probably letting air through gap
>screw it down good and tight

my car doesn't sound as good, doesn't backfire at high rpms, and in general is less pleasurable to drive. I'm really considering loosening it again.

You might as well. It's a harmless and enjoyable mod.

on the upside your jbweld post made me laff hard

>doesn't backfire at high rpms
yeah uh
backfiring will kill your cat, if you still have it

If it's just dumping a little bit of unburnt fuel into the cat once in a while for dem sweet burbles it's no biggie. Steady state operation as long as it's still rocking back and forth over stochiometric then a 3-way cat isn't going to get run down too bad.

Ohai friend
I had an idea to fix it and it's so autistic it may actually work. Keep your eyes open for a thread about it at 9ish
Catalytic converters are for fags anyway