What's wrong with your car? It's okay, let it all out

its slipping gears

Somewhat related to this thread but I need some advice, I get my license back this Saturday after losing it for 8 months. During this 8 months period I started my car every Friday, for about 10-15 minutes, and drove it up and down my driveway which is about 70 meters long once or twice.

Would it be a good idea to change the oil/filter or should the existing engine oil be ok after such a long duration of it not being driven long distances? It's a MY14.5 CJ Lancer Ralliart so it's fairly new.

>losing coolant
>Have suspicion that either stem seals or piston rings are letting oil into a cylinder
>Multiple dents from when I got it that I don't know how to fix
>Want to make it fast but it's a 2L with narrow valve angles so it's pretty limited
Pic related, it's one of my sills, again from when I got the car

>my pioneershit headunit's Bluetooth keeps fucking up
>rear hatch switches don't work so the light doesn't turn on automatically
>one steering rack bushing is slightly torn
>rear diff cover leaks but it's a pain in the ass to change since the diff is bolted to the crossmember with studs in the cover
>sunroof drains are clogged so when it REALLY rains my driver side carpet gets wet
>rear springs are sagging a lot
>both front door gussets (the triangle things in the front corners of the doors that help seal the window) are torn so there's a lot of wind noise at 80+
>hood, spoiler, and bumper covers have clearcoat failure and need to be repainted as well as PDR needed all around
>sun visor broke but I couldn't find one with a mirror in it so it has one without a mirror until I can find one with a mirror

You definitely can't hurt it by changing the oil, but it should be fine. I'd change it a little sooner than usual mileage wise but it shouldn't be necessary right now.

no idea what a timing belt is

Paint is peeling on the roof and it needs new control arm and leaf spring bushings, and new U joints.

bought car for 13k knowing it had an oil leak, spending 5k rebuilding the engine :D

Bent rims, cabin leak. Feels awful over 60 mph.

Well I was having issues with diesel getting in to the oil, so got the Dpf removed and computer remapped as it seems to be a blocked Dpf being the problem.
fingers crossed that's it sorted.

2.0 diesel s40

>hit deer, front bumper is $500 replacement
>front passenger window weatherstripping is pinched and out of place, would have to take apart door to fix
>veers right while driving, could be fucked rotor, fucked alignment, or frame damage
>weird as fuck issue with center console lights where only the light that hits the airflow direction knob flickers in and out randomly, bumps can cause it to turn on and off depending so may be the bulb
>clearcoat failure due to my own poor decisions on maintenance
>all fluids besides engine oil could do with a change, is okay now however
>miscellaneous clearcoat scratches
>is a base model car post 1970 which is a problem itself
>missing a hubcap
>missing the driver's manual
>missing the horn
>airbag needs to be recalled since a factory defect means it contains shards of metal that will make love with my skull on a violent level of force upon a crash, this kills the driver
>four seater and I haven't had a passenger in months
Someday I'll buy an old diesel and love it to death

It needs to be driven.

Get some aerokroil. Shits the best penetrating oil I've ever used. Soak the shit out of it and wire brush it and heat it. You'll get it out

>bald rear tyres
>previous owner hit a curb so left front wheel is a bit gouged and needs alignment
>decent scratch on left front guard
>left front brakes are down to the indicators, probably wearing faster because of alignment issues

Nothing too bad really.

heating doesn't work
losing oil
tires are bald

its a bus

nothing wrong with your car, there is something wrong with you. the driver.

>CVT
get rid of it before it an hero's

this.

>losing coolant
>Have suspicion that either stem seals or piston rings are letting oil into a cylinder
head gasket?

you got some investigating to do m8

It's a manually driven dinosaur-burner

Hello Mazda bro

The clutch pedal has started to rumble because I've been coasting too much

Floor pan rust
Rain rail needs repair
Feeble interior lights work when they feel like it
Left door speaker has had heaps too many gins
Needs a wheel alignment (lol)
Paint is meh; polished and waxed as best I can but it was a shit job done hastily by some meh tier shop 10 years ago.
Exhaust is a bit shit too. Want a custom one.

>trans leak
>oil leak
>power steering leak
>fog lights no workie
>rear bell-crank bushing is going
>weather seal on passenger door leaks
>it’s dirty

Rear brakes seized and rusted
Right upper ball joint
F/R sway bar links
Control arms

>slow
>slow
>weird differences in power depending on daytime, sometimes a lot, sometimes nothing
>heavy
>slow

E36 sedan
>side sills need to be cut and new metal needs to be welded in
>jack points are fucked
>bunch of other little rust spots
>3-4 holes in the bottom
>wheels are crooked
>abs electric gremlins
Just end me

Exhaust rattles, nismo suspension is way too stiff for daily driving, paint sucks ass, bad exhaust gasket

>too lazy to take off skid plate to change front diff oil
>inexplicable plastic rattle coming from steering column
>Needs a wheel balanced so it stops shaking at 70+ mph
>Spark plugs are due in 5k miles

Should probably pick up the spark plugs soon. 5k miles is only a couple months for me.

>rusty
>rust prone
>cheap when new
>scratched up paint
>rubbers are dried
>dings everywere

>no idea when the timing belt was last changed.

thats the problem on my miata, my avalon i have the opposite problem, i know exactly when it was changed, and am just waiting to hear it snap.

whether the transmission came with the swapped engine.

The mx5 uses a non interference motor. At least, the na models did.
I.e, if your belt goes, time the motor, whack another belt on and away you go.

What motor do you have, user?

It’s a Saab so it’s perfect except that it has stupid bullshit electrical issues every 2 weeks. Right now the rear driver side door power locks and windows don’t work.

One of the glow plugs is rip
Stepper motor arm on the ac is broken
Engine mount is dead
What should I fix first

Alternator issues again.
I bought it in July and after a few hours of driving, battery light came up and I found alternator is dead.
I tried to return it to the seller but he flipped me off, because he put something in the contract which basically transfers all responsibility to me.
I replaced it and after a few more hours of driving, same thing happened. I wanted to consult it with lawyer, but I'm so stupid that I lost the contract so I was shit out of luck.
Replaced it again together with battery, this time also disconnected everything non-essential and cleaned all contacts and everything seemed fine.
Fast forward to yesterday, again, battery light and after a few kilometers, it just died.

I'm fucking tired of repairing the same shit again, I don't have the money for that and access to the alternator is so fucking terrible that I'm considering selling it for parts.

I just fucking banged it into a curb, now the steering wheel rapidly shakes back and forth.
This was an hour ago, just got home. I'll replace the wheel, see if it still bumps, drop it in for a service on the weekend (it's 500k's overdue) and ask if they can see anything.
Fucking hope it's at worst the lower control arm.
First day I've had my licence and I'm looking at spending $2000 on a wreck that got smashed up the ass, just so, if EVERYTHING's fucked, I can replace the whole front end of the car for cheap.

i had a brake line burst on my driver rear, so I cut the line, and bent and crimped it so it stopped leaking, and now just have three brakes.

I dont have enough money for the engine that i want so im stuck with the base model economy V6 and it keeps breaking down

ECU dude.
And actually test the battery voltage with a multimeter

I tested it, the replacement battery was brand new and not the cheapest one. When off, voltage was just around 13V and when on and charging, it was 14.1V.
I did some digging on the internet and it seems this is a very common issue for my car (1999 Ford/Mercury Cougar).
I loved the car when it worked, acceleration is good, sound is awesome and the fuel consumption isn't that terrible. It was pretty cheap too (roughly $1800, I don't live in USA), but so far the repair cost me another $700 and now if I need to replace alternator again, it's another $300.
I know this doesn't sound that bad, but my monthly wage is roughly $900, so I'm not so happy about it.

300 for a ford alternator?
you're getting ripped off.
i4 or V6?

Holy shit friend RIP

>Cat and flex pipe are leaking, making it sound like shit
>Throw out bearing is going out, makes it sound like shit
>Burns oil (lol)
>Wheels are pretty gouged up from previous owner
>for some reason my drivers seat keeps getting loose, I have it tight right now but really need to but some loctite on them
>Windshield has tons of micro pitting making it annoying driving into the sun
>Rear bumper wants to poke out on the sides a little bit and I can't for the life of me get it to sit flush

But no issues that hinder driving it yet, knock on wood.

2001 Honda Prelude

>Replace alt
>Doesn't work
>Again
>With battery
>LITERALLY NOTHING HAS CHANGED
>Lol I'll do it again
user no

>abs electric gremlins
May God have mercy on your soul

Glow plugs prob just for dat quick solution
Don't know much about a/c
Should be able to slot in a new mount my taking the weight of the engine with a hoist (don't know if it's good to replace both at same time tho, do research user)

My catalytic converters rattle like marbles in a paint can, but they're so rusty they can't be removed from the flanges connecting them to the rest of the exhaust.

V6.
Alternator itself is $200, but I don't want to fix it myself again, the access to it is so terrible that I spent entire day on it and I'd rather just pay the $50-100 extra because I don't have time for it.

This time I also want to replace alternator-battery cable, that seems to be another cause for this according to forums

>This time I also want to replace alternator-battery cable, that seems to be another cause for this according to forums
THEN JUST DO THE FUCKING CABLE

try reseting the ECU, it can be done by removing a few specific fuses.
then take a good look at the wiring and make sure that there isn't any bare wires.

Its too nice. I feel i dont deserve her.

If the alternator is still charging then sure, I'll do that, but I don't think so. I destroyed my multimeter a few weeks ago so I have just ordered a new one, I'll measure it when it arrives

I'll try that, thanks user

Here's a vid of the crash, it almost looks like I ran up directly onto the curb, rather than hit it sideways, WHICH WOULD BE GOOD, but sadly I was still steering pretty sharp.
I'll look at the bearings in the morning, but for now, point and laugh at me:
a.pomfe.co/lxkhyhx.mp4

>AnonThinksHe'sATofu.webm

Oh man where to start
>Weather seals around doors leak when it rains a ton, probably needs the front windows pushed more into the soft top
> Slow
> Heavy
> Back windshield is coming free from the soft top, just needs some clear silicon
> Passenger side window motor assembly going out, might be a kink in the wire
Oh and the engine might grenade eventually, but that's a Sebring for you. Trying to get rid of it as fast as possible

1990 1.6, i'm afraid of the death wobble and bought a new crank timing gear, bolt, woodriff key, and since the timing belt is an unknown, got a belt kit and waterpump kit. now i just need to actually spend a couple days and actually work on it.

theres bondo ;-;

SOMEONE FUCKING WATCH THIS VID AND TELL ME EVERYTHING GON BE ALRIGHT

I watched it, I think you're a bit dumb but it doesn't look too bad. You might have fucked some bushing, bearings, etc. But I doubt anything worse than the control arm (if even that) is damaged. From what symptoms you described, you probably just fucked up your tie rod / tie rod end.

>now when it's below zero, driver door refuses to unlock
Always have to reserve 15-30 min to wrangle it open before going anywhere. Wouldn't give a fuck about it if it wasn't the driver door.
>rust, rust everywhere
>just cleaned, but now it's more brown than white on the outside and I can't clean it before spring without paying sums I don't have
>at least one tire of the winter tire set loses air, I have to check them every two weeks
>dreading when it gets to -20c, that's when the clutch freezes stiff
>also dreading the weird idle RPM hunt it does once in a while especially when it's really cold
>one of the rear license plate lights won't stay in its place, it's almost always hanging when I open trunk
>I have no explanation for the oil loss

Yet, I know, I will drive this shitbox down to the last mile.

>axle going, squeaks on turns
>bad bearing on same axle
>broken cv boot on non-fucked axle
>bushings on all 4 tires
>sway bar needs to be replaced
>seasonal oil, tires, ect
it's a shitbox and I don't really need suspension but it causes way too much road noise, the fact it came with all seasons from the last owner doesn't help the noise

1972 240z with triple Weber 40 dcoe carbs.
>Carbs refuse to reseat when I let off the gas unless I have a retarded strong return spring.
>Oil pump gasket is leaking.
>Vacuum leak that I can't get rid of.
Can't use vacuum advance with the Weber's, so timing is a nightmare.
>Brakes shriek like a banshee in the morning.

Weather's supposed to be nice all well, so planning on doing a lot of work

>rust here and there (its seen 15 salty winter by now)
>gearbox is notchy (worn out synchros)
>doing any kind of sustained driving at over 120km/h makes it go into limp mode because of overboost from stuck wastegate

Its ok otherwise

i lost my 1991 NA6 miata to the SNC :(

Two things are bothering me right now.

Thermostat and O2 sensors will be here later today.
>Literally just flushed coolant
>Week later once the cold hits the thermostat starts sticking open

Takes forever to warm up. Quit driving it until I take care of the problem.

I also have an exhaust leak at the turbo to exhaust flange. Hopefully I'll have that fixed today as well.

rust fucking everywhere
one of the brake calipers has the bolts attaching it to the spindle completely stripped, and the rotor is completely fucked.
need to refresh fluids
needs alignment
aftermarket radio needs to be replaced with the stock one, perhaps update the sound system to the 87+ style with speakers behind the seats

for some reason I feel the same way about my car, even with the list of problems above

beautiful car user

May as well replace both mounts if he's in there.

I bought a ranger to beat on the trails and the thermostat housing started leaking.
>New gasket, no big deal
All three bolts broke on me. I had to drill the bolts out and retab the thread holes to a bigger size on the block and the housing. Sealed it with rtv silicone and it leaked. Clean off the silicone and try it again giving the silicone 48 hours to set up. Haven't had an issue with it for 6 years now

>hurr hurr, racekar
>OH NO....

>car
06 Pontiac G6 GTP
Not sure if it's struts, control arm, or ball joints - clunks around every time I hit a bump or turn. Sounds like a can being squished.

Interior is falling apart - passenger seat doesn't recline or revert, panels are falling off, needs a new clutch

>Truck
1994 Ford Bronco
Needs new clutch, rear window is shattered, rusty, lift on the right side is busted, no heat, no a/c. Passenger side window doesn't work.

Engine is solid, though.

>steering wheel offset after an alignment
That shit happened to me too
Do I go back and tell the shop to do it fucking right or will that be the cost of another alignment

I wish it was possible to do good alignments in your own garage

You can do a good alignment in your garage. It's just a very time consuming process. Good thing you're here, as it tells me you're autistic enough to get it right.

Just grab a few beers and get it out of the way

>brakes stuck
>a caliper is $150
>need 2

I need to replace the front axle anyway because the CV boots are toast. Guessing I should hold off the alignment till after that?

Always do an alignment last when you're working on the front, that way you know it's good when you're done.

>car drips oil
>replaced valve cover gasket
>still dripping oil
>dripping slowly enough that I can't see where it is looking up or coming from but still makes a mess of my driveway
Fuck this is annoying. How the fuck do I find where it's coming from.

>car wont even start
>wiring is fucked
>steering is fucked
>is shit offroad which is why I bought it in the first place
>everything is fucking broken or near breaking
>newest parts that werent made in 1969 is the exhaust and radio
>driver door is misaligned slightly so I have to slam the door
>harness belts are from 1995 but I can't afford new ones atm
>bucket seats are probably from the same year if not older
>rust spots
>previous owner was a fucking idiot
>engine will need rebuilding
>engine is also weak af
>car I bought for offroad is now a glorified driveway ornament
>want to sell but also want to keep

At least the horn works

>rusty frame
>engine is in fucking great condition so it will definitely outlast the frame which sucks
>paint is scratched and dinged up
>rear taillight on right side is moldy from water ingress
>hissing noise from somewhere near the power steering or maybe brake booster, vacuum leak obviously
>sunroof won't fully close but doesn't let in water anyway so I don't fucking bother with it
I think that's about it
>

Are skid plates really necessary? Changed my oil today and found that the skid plate is mostly gone all of a sudden. I didn't even hit anything.

This post reminds me of my roommate.
>Is a poorfag
>From a poor family
>Wageslaved pulling doubles for two years
>Literally wouldn't take a day off for anything, said he had a goal in mind
>Bought a brand new shitbox, paid in full
>Sits in the garage year round
>Scared to drive it as someone may vandalize it
>Scared to drive it as wear items are expensive ie; rotors & pads, tires
>Scared of driving in general anyways
>He washed it but his ignorance is his arrogance, scratched it all to hell - black paint reveals everything
>He use to show people the car before scratching it, now it's at the back of the garage
>He's put maybe 200 miles on it since he bought it three or four years ago

He'll start the car from time to, but that's about the extent of it.

Offered to fix the paint for him if I could drive it, but he declined and asked to use my tools and pads. I suggested he should practice first as he could cause more harm than good. He hasn't touched my tools and pads and dropped the subject after I mentioned the potential damage they could cause.

Tried to get him to go on a fall cruise with me into the great north, but was afraid of something.

Tried getting him to buy a car cover and getting the thing out of the garage, but insisted on leaving it in the garage.

Unfortunately now our 3.5 car garage has a damn obstacle in it year round. God forbid I run an angle grinder, sand wood, or anything garage related as MY CAR IS IN HERE.
>I use to give a fuck, but now I just pretend it isn't in here

Won't leave the car unlocked so I can push it outside but expects I tip toe around it.

Fuck you and that waste of space.

My Br/o/ keeps telling me i'm worring too much about the SNC issue, but i don't have the space or time to swap an engine or crank if my crank goes tits up. but i can at least do the prevenative maint. after that though i need to figure out how to rewire the AC comressor.

M-my mom has it ;u;

>coolant leak
>only leaks when engine is off

what is wrong with this thing?

My daily driver:

Needs a new chain and sprockets
Oil change
Engine makes a weird clunky noise at takeoff.
New clutches soon?
Valve adjustment?
Fork oil

However, since it is my daily, I don't have time to put it under the wrench.

>wash car
>big chunk of paint scrubs off the front bumper
Holy shit FUCK florida and is acidic paint melting blooded fucking insects

>However, since it is my daily, I don't have time to put it under the wrench
Are you stupid
You need to put it under the wrench BECAUSE it is your daily driver
Do the chain and sprockets and oil at least you lazy fuck

>New clutches soon?
How the fuck do you wear out a wet clutch

You need to learn to use the clutch better user

D-does this really happen?
Why the fuck would anyone live in Florida?

It's leaking a worryingly large amount of coolant from the water pump and it doesn't even have 30,000 miles on it.

>volkswagen golf 3 estate 1.6
>bad head gasket
>oil leak between trans and engine
>fucked up a bit of the sills cause im a retard and didn't check properly before i jacked up the car to change my tires
>one of my us blinker modules are fucked so my front indicator doesnt work
>some electrical problem with one of my headlights, had to nigger in a new ground wire
>hole in exhaust
>front brakes make some sounds sometimes
>engine dies sometimes right after startup
>reverse gear is fucked, making not so normal sounds
>ripped out a gear shifter bushing so i couldnt put it into 1st and the shifter was very loose, fixed this, but it coulkd easily happen again since i niggered it in again
>clutch is propably a bit fucked after this
>rear window heater doesnt work
>some outside noice coming in, more than normal
>electric mirrors doesnt work, have to adjust them myself
>only have 3 speakers working, two in dash and one in drivers door
>tailgate latch is fucked, hard to put it into lock sometimes
>locks and doors get stuck when winter comes, have to warm up the lock with a bag of hot water
>really old winter tires, 6 years and older
>motor mount squeaking
>front wheels out of alignment caused by my coilovers
>sheered of a floor brace under the floor cause i've lowered it

>hurr durr stanced fag
Its not stanced or slammed.
My town is a shithole to drive in, rarely fix the roads here, they just keep on digging everywhere.
when they do "repair" them a 12yr with downs could've done a better job
I dont have any fucking money to fix my shitbox

long ass winded story

7MGE headgasket went out, didnt feel like building the engine myself so i paid a well respected place that specializes in JDM to build the top end for $3500 while doing the headgasket. they call me its ready, i miss work to get it, suddenly its not ready. whoever built it back together put the cams reverse order (WTF??) and they promised next day it would be fixed.

so fine next day its ready, 5 months later valve cover gaskets are leaking MASSIVE oil. look into it myself, over half the valve cover bolts are loose, hose clamps arent tightened, spark plugs are WAY overtightened, etc. fix it myself

fast forward 2 more months, cam seals start pissing oil, cars leaking 1L of litre a week, timing belt is soaked in oil. still under warranty so i nicely talk about their previous fuckups and they say come in and they will work it under warranty. i drop it off, 2 days later they say come get your car. i asked if they fixed it, they fucking went bankrupt the next day, never said anything to me the day i dropped off the car they were having issues, me and 10 pissed off people had to come get our vehicles half finished or not fixed and the owner didnt have the balls to even show up to give us our keys and the shop was gutted

TLDR got fucked on a $3500 engine build, leaks 1L of oil a week, have to rebuild the engine myself next spring

>build the top end for $3500
why didn't you just get another engine from PNP for $500?