Does red lining too often hurt the engine if it was build for normal driving?

Does red lining too often hurt the engine if it was build for normal driving?

I recently found out that driving quick with my old city box is fun as fuck, I'm just affraid I'll blow up the engine the way I'm treating it.
Should I tone it down? Any tips on how to take good care of my engine?

I'm quite new to cars, only did a few repairs myself so sorry if the question sounds stupid.

It can only hurt shitty engines, things I try not to operate.

It hurts if

>the engine is shit
>if the engine is old (get water AND oil to temperature and even then wait a couple minutes before going madman)
>if the engine has problems and needs maintenance
>if the car has under 5k miles on it

*COLD not old. typo.

ok old isn't great for redlining too

entirely dependent on the engine.

my 24v cummins can redline all day long, its built to do that because its an industrial diesel motor.

my 3sfe might grenade if taken near redline for more than a few minutes, because shitty economy car.

it depends upon what it is.

>ford powershift still autoshifts when you set it to manual if you hit middle of the redline

kill me

Most autotragic trannies of today upshift automatically even on M.
It's part of showing you how fucking cucked you are in a modern car.

A-at least I'm still hitting peak power before redline anyways, r-right

entirely dependent on the engine.

peak power might be 100rpm from redline or 2,000 rpm before redline.

Modern engines do not have an issue with redlining. But I would wait to warm the car up before gettin hektic.
Variable timing has made redlining not as dangerous as it used to be

Probably to prevent the wife of the car buyer from destroying the engine when it is left in "manual mode"
I forget which car youtube channel said this story, but the wife of some wealthy guy drove a Maserati (left in manual mode) around in 1st gear while the engine was screaming at redline the entire time

Holy fuck how can people be so oblivious

Redline starts at 7, peak power at 6.5

Funny enough, the reason I got the selectshift was for the wife.

well if peak power is at 6.5 then there is no reason to go past that.

Dont tell me what to do

Well it's a 15yo Renault so I'm not sure about the quality of the engine to be honest.
Though if it helps it's in very good shape, the head has been rebuild last year and the engine has 70k miles on it.
I also always wait even after it's warmed up.
Thanks for the repiles.

As someone who has never driven manual, how do you not stall when going from stopped to first especially on a hill? From my understanding, if the engine is on, the clutch is in and the wheels arent turning then engine is stalled. Do you let off the clutch pedal until the wheels move?

Your redline is designed to be BEFORE you hit valve float. The biggest issue is heat with lots of high revs. As long as the engine's warm and you have the correct amount of oil you're fine.

theres no reason to go udner that either then

>mfw redline at 6200 and peak power is 4800-6200

>Clutch in
>Set handbrake
>When ready to begin moving again, begin revving
>Release handbrake and clutch out when you're revving high enough to upshift to 1st
>Upshift to 1st

One of like 5 different ways to do it, and not fucking rocket science.

>how do you not stall when going from stopped to first especially on a hill?
You hit the gas while in neutral and when you hit a certain RPM (based on your car where to set that line) drop the clutch in first.
How I've always done it.
my FC rx7 needed to be at like 2.5k before I let the clutch drop on flat ground. 162k miles when I gave it to my brother, still doing strong.

last three are done pretty much simultaneously, should obviously not release the handbrake until you're in the process of shifting

exactly

>Not heel-toeing

casual

Right foot on brake, left foot on clutch. Depress both. Shift gear to 1st.
Apply handbrake, release footbrake.
Gas up to 2-3k revs, dependant on conditions.
Release handbrake and release clutch, keep foot on gas. It'll go.

Alternatively, on new cars with hill assist/old cars with skillful driving - ignore the handbrake. My car doesn't even have electric mirrors and it has hill assist, it holds the car for about two seconds. Plenty of time to rev up and let the clutch out.

That sounds a lot more complicated than what I do.
>Push in clutch while in 1st
>Hold car up with brake pedal
>Let out clutch to friction zone while letting off brake
>Gas and go

A red line a day keeps the carbon away

>3sfe

what kar?

>not just pouring a few cans of seafoam into your tank
baka, look at this fucking amateur hour here.
Bet you push in the clutch too instead of rev matching.

Unless you are driving a trabant I don't think carbon buildup is an issue. Especially with efi

can you blow up an engine if you try to race someone and don't shift from 1st gear when you're nearing 60mph?
my dad says his friend honda vtec (don't know the year) blew up when he tried doing that. i thought cars had a rev limiter

>Not perfectly rev matching
>Shift anyways

GRRRRINNND GRRRKK CRUNCH SNAP

I wish I was driving one

Volkswagen/Audi engines have this issue

Ok, that makes sense. But is there some slip in the clutch when the clutch goes in? I mean its a friction pad that works like a brake right? I was thinking that when you let off the clutch pedal, the whole drive train is totally locked in but there has to be some slip in it till you start moving yeah?

>from 1st gear when you're nearing 60mph?
jesus.
you're already banging on the redline at 15mph in most cars. But yes that will fuck your life up

>Honda vtec
Not all cars have rev limiters and most aren't designed to bounce off of the rev limiter for extended periods of time.
Also
>60 mph
>1st gear

shelby gt 500 can hit 0-60 in 4.2s on 1st

The clutch pedal has travel for a reason. It's an axis, not a digital switch. You let it out slowly so it has time to synchronise.

>in most cars
Really? My cuckbox will let me hit 30 in 1st. I thought that was normal.

Have you driven stick before?

You can feel a 'bite' when feathering off the clutch (what calls the friction zone I believe) at the point when the gear starts syncing.

Clutching out should be a gradual process, if you're just yanking your foot off you're gonna grind as much as if you didn't clutch at all.

Yes but it's pretty minimal. The fags you see that complain about clutch wear are people who "ride the clutch" aka use the clutch instead of throttle to adjust input

Yes there is clutch plate slip. If it instantly locked and had no slip, it would destroy your drivetrain instead of the clutch itself, and two plates wouldnt be the method of power transmission for the system. Think of it like a Fuse in an an electrical system.

However, problems do arise if you let your clutch slip too much way too often and you ride the clutch in a manual transmission vehicle. You'll overheat it and wear out the lifespan of the clutch. If your clutch is also designed for a low power/low torque application and you've modified your car, you could also completely gape out your ass and wallet when those plates connect with more force than it can handle.

Be a woman

>shelby gt 500 can hit 0-60 in 4.2s on 1st
What do the gearing ratios look like on this car?
Sounds like a fucking retarded idea, but if it works

Ive never driven stick, but I know a little about how it works

That makes a lot more sense now, thanks for clearing that up anons. I love this board

3.31
and it's actually 3.7s 0 to 60 in 1st not 4.5

Keep in mind that engine oil takes longer to get up to temperature than coolant, it's a bummer since most cars have only a coolant temperature gauge.

If you care so much send a used oil sample for analysis it will tell you a lot about your engine.

It will tell things like wear metals and if you should shorten your OCI, and I would say quite important for an older engine coolant presence in oil since that will hurt oil performance a lot.

Also a blow-by test would not hurt either.

No matter how much you read on the Internets it will not replace actual practice.

Redlining is always okay as long as your engine is warm! It should be ~90 degrees Celsius (the temp gauge should be in the middle) before it's technically safe.

I would strongly advise against redlining on a cold engine though. You may bend your piston rods or worse.

I thought it was still beneficial to rev past peak power because of gearing advantage ?

I'm kind of scared of redlining my car because everything starts to vibrate more. The gas pedal, the clutch pedal, and engine. Also above a certain speed or rpm there is this sketchy high pitched rattle noise so I tend to avoid it. Like it comes on at 82 mph without fail every time or if I'm in 4th gear at 70 mph.
>you're already banging on the redline at 15mph in most cars
My car has a tall 1st gear, lets me go up to 35-40 mph.

Didn't know I could get a test like that, thanks for the advice user.

Shouldn't you occasionally redline diesel cars, to unfuck the exhaust?

Yes because diesels are prone to carbon buildup.

>not being quick enough to just take your foot off the brake and give it gass before you roll at all

>MFW redline is 5500 and peak power is 3000-4000

Fucking truck engines.

Mine is a cuckbox, but that sounds about right.

The engine ca take it, especially a truck engine. The issue is the transmission and the rest of the drivetrain. You're severely shortening the life of your tranny and axle/ CV axles.

>this is BS

The tranny and cv joints/axles are under most stress when launching, no? As long as you're not pushing 500hp in a shitbox you should be fine

Yes they are. Drivetrain components have torque limits, not horsepower limits. Launching causes spikes of torque that the engine could never make on it's own- imagine a split second of like 1400ft-lb of torque 'shoking' the drivetrain. That's what breaks trannies and driveshafts, not necessarily HP. Torque is also what breaks engine components too, which is why a Honda F20C can make 700hp on stock rods, because it's only making 450ish lb-ft of torque and at a high RPM, meaning that according to the connecting rods, 450lb-ft at 9K (hypothetical) is exactly half the force as 450lb-ft at 4500RPM, since @ 9K RPM, it has two separate power strokes to distribute that torque vs 1 power stroke to carry it on the 4500RPM engine.

HP is still an important measure as it is still a function of torque, high horsepower means high torque at high revs, and as a result you will have gearing advantage on a lower revving engine. In your example 450ft lbs at 9000rpm has twice the torque in many real world applications than the 450ftlbs at 4500rpm

You definitely should.
>mfw going up the toegay in my 75 HP diesel Merc at 4500 RPM redline, cutting corners at breathtaking 25 MPH

this. 100% patrician

>24V
twice as many valves as you want

AHAHAHAHAHHAHA stupid piston cucks

man it feels good to drive a ROTARY

You might aswell buy a two stroke snowmobile motor and swap that in your rx7. It'll last longer, burns cleaner and you'll get more power without losing the wankel powerband

dorito was a mistake

yes, to merge safely I redline my 16 tdi at every onramp.

then why's no one doing it?

>car's peak power is at 6k RPM
>car's redline is at 6.8k RPM

How am I supposed to get the most out of my car if I can only hold it in that position for like a second at the most.

Itwasajoke.jpg

This. Before browsing Veeky Forums I never even thought to use the handbrake on hills.

you (somewhat) slowly let out the clutch until the tires are moving near the same speed as the engine

First gen automatic neons can 0-45mph in first gear. I wouldn't be surprised to see some other shitboxes able to hit 50 in first gear

How can 1st gear be so tall and not lug around at slow speeds?

better gearing. same reason formula cars have 8 forward gears

If it's automatic it'll hurt the transmission more than the engine.

I mean go call your husband or some shit and figure out how it works. That is inexcusable.

Guy with the 15mph here, was driving today and its like 23mph at redline in 1st, second is like 45mph. both of those are past peak power though and a fucking waste.
Should really be shifting at 18mph and 40mph respectively. Its a Fiesta ST
Just surprised a car like a Ford Mustang that is all low end power, is getting to 60mph in first gear. What the hell are the other gears for then? Do people just drive in first and second all day when they own those?

actually, there is because the torque loss is usually less by pushing it to redline rather than shifting, it's super rare for redline to have such a torque loss that shifting sooner would actually be recommended.

fuel economy.
can you actually drive manual?

It makes sense now but driving a car for fuel economy didnt even cross my mind until you mentioned it. Thanks user.

but when you shift at 6.5 your revs go down and so your max torque is further away

>Mfw powerband and redline start at 6k and go to 8k

My old Nissan had tall gears. Car weighed next to nothing but only produced 69hp/76tq when it was new.

First would take me to 30mph and second would run to 65 iirc. Was a shitbox designed for maximum empeegees during the oil crisis.

Depends on your powerband and gearing.

After a gentle running-in for its first 1,000 miles I red-lined every gear change and it was still going strong 200,000+ miles later on the original clutch

Lots of torque in the engine. The 2.4l turbo is fucking beefy down low.

that ain't shit
>buddy lets wife drive his diesel while he's out of town since he took the shitbox to the airport so the truck didn't get stolen
>she spends the whole time driving it in low since the gear positions were different between cars and she didn't read the gear selector
>truck spent a WEEK driving around at like 3k
>somehow didn't grenade

>>truck spent a WEEK driving around at like 3k
No way bro, a whole entire 3K? WOW how can it survive

overfueling, not revs kills diesels, if shes got it in low she wont be using much throttle at all to make it do 3k revs, as such its gonna be getting heaps of air and not much fuel, which is fine for diesels
petrols are the opposite, lean mixtures cook petrols.

>not driving a super long stroke truck that redlines at 2.5k
baka

can't be more than 120mm stroke. Lambo/Audi V10 has 93mm stroke and redlines to 8500. 120mm or something can def. do 3500.
Which engine though?

Lmao wrong.