/ORG/: first snowfall edition

>tfw everyone ripped up all the squarebodies for axles so now even 6/10 trucks are 4500+
FUCK

Where you at? In south central PA K5s can be had for 1500-2500 in decent shape. Under 1500 if it's junk, over 2500 for nicer lower mileage.

innasouthwest. everyone built crawlers from the danas and 14 bolts in the 3/4 tons so now all we have is (((10 bolt))) trucks

I was thinking probably occasional desert driving. Tho it can get quite bushy around these parts.

if you've got some mechanical ability or travel with friends with better vehicles, the skys the limit. see the top gear botswana/bolivia/river nile specials for some slightly unrealistic inspiration

What do you plan on using the squarebody for? 10 bolts are not bad axles, just don't go too big on tire size and don't drive like a rock bouncer. If you want larger axles then upgrading a 1/2 ton truck is easy, everything bolts in, just need adapter u joint to go to the 14 bolt, front u joint matches the Dana 60 with the stock front shaft.

DD, hauling around work stuff in the bed, occasional trailering, and wheeling wherever that battleship will go.
I've heard split opinions on tires for 10 bolts though, some say 33s max, some say 35s. either is more or less okay with me, but I'll admit I like the idea of 35s more.

What is the final solution to the subiefag problem?

I had 35s on my K5 didn't have issues, now 37s with lockers front and rear. It does help I have the 30 spline rear shafts. Just picked up another 14 bolt full float rear, and some 8 lug front hubs.

IMO the rear axle is most important. Full float 14 bolts will never break, and if you somehow do break a shaft the wheel stays on. You can always limp home in 2wd, if you break a front shaft or two. The rear axle also takes most of the load even when in 4wd, which is why the 3/4 ton trucks still run the 10 bolt front with the 14 bolt rear. I picked my last two 14 bolt FF axles up for 150 dollars each. Just need to regear, if it doesn't match your front 10 bolt and you're set. Most common gearing is 3.73 and 4.10 for the 14 bolt.

The front 10 bolt is just as strong as any Dana 44, basically same ring gear size, same u joint and outer shaft size. They also make RCV axle shafts for the 10 bolt front axle if you want the strongest shafts available, but the chromoly shafts with new Dana Spicer u joints can be had for 500-600 bucks for the set and will handle 35" tires no problems. I would replace the ball joints when you bought the truck to make sure you had no issues down the line with the larger tires

thanks dude. I have a buddy with an M1009, FF 14 bolt/dana setup so he's helping me with some of the tips on purchasing.
other than standard GM fuckery, anything else to watch out for? I haven't heard of too many square-specific issues, despite for some goddamn reason combining imperial and metric on one fucking vehicle.

what do you use for comms on the trail? CB? FRS? something else? what gear specifically?

tacofag banned me because I have more cylinders than his subaru

nigger

>Subaru honosexuals confirmed for assmad
I'd be as mad as them too if I had to overcompensate in traditional battle wagon style.

I DO NOT LIKE THESE SUGGESTIONS
MORE PLS

THANK

wow i actually have
rare someone posts about a trail in my area
what kind of questions do you have? its a relatively basic trail

>blg reporting in for duty

genocide

currently a shitty cb
everyone is trying to convince me to go 2m though so that will probably happen soon
i dont want to take a gay test though

>battlewagons, roll out!

Did no one watch davidsfarm? The key to modifying a car for offroading is to take a preferably fwd car, cap off the rear brake lines, move the fuel tank to inside the car or in the engine bay or something and run the lines away from stuff, make sure exhaust wont catch on anything. This ensures everything behind the firewall that WILL be damaged isn't vital to the cars ability to run and drive. Only put the best cheap used snow tires or if its a full size car or something old used all terrains. Body work is usually necessary. The only kind of suspension mod you should consider is some kind of cheap ass spacer like tennis balls in struts or something stupid like that or if its one of those weird GM things where you can put a truck or van spring out of a junkyard(low cost alternative to the junkyard is buying something with the springs for scrap value and taking only the parts you need before junking it) in a car and add a couple inches of lift.

If you look at things like money spent to fun ratio crow is probably doing better than most of the people in this thread. But of course there's different types of offroading conditions and a car can only go so far. Even though my S10 has only an inch or two more ground clearance from taller tires than my old Impala plus another 13 inches of wheelbase the truck still performs ten times better everywhere the car went except hill climbs in sand.

That's actually pretty cool, post more pics

Just take your Technicians Exam, if your not a retard and managed to pass high school physics with an hour of studying it should be a walk in the park, the KB6NU study guides are pretty good, just be aware that you will get bitten by the radio bug and withing a year you'll be looking to get your general or AE licence, being able to talk to people across the globe with no other infrastructure is really fun.

user no pls

but what if i am a retard?

I'm looking at portal axle swap prices and projects and realised the hummer has both a portal system and independent rear and front suspensions

why.

its also 23 feet wide and is impossible to fit down any trail.

but to your suspension comment - it doesnt not have 'standard type' ifs. it is a very long travel style suspension. that said, even with the longer travel, the flex is not that great. it was made to survive in shitty environments, not be a rock crawler.

>but what if i am a retard?

Then just study a little bit harder, seriously, even a cheap baofeng with an aftermarket external dual band antenna shits all over CB in terms of range and utility and the test keeps the braindead truckers from having keydown competitions when you want to try and talk with someone, just do it, you won't regret it

>I know this is a meme but it's great anyways
youtube.com/watch?v=CDMTmDMXbJI

Contracts, ground clearance, and individual replaceability. If an IED destroys a part of the axle, they can just replace it on the side of the road in one hour from the medium support vehicle trailing 3 cars behind it.
Easier to replace than having axles and despite being harder to maintain in the long run, they are better on the trails when you essentially have infinite money to repair your vehicles (like on desert based missions).

Or you can just do what the Canadian forces do and use the native population's military vehicles which are just rugged, armoured versions of the local population's vehicles. Hiluxes, LC70s, etc. With those anemic, shite engines. Not like those modern iForce whatever.

>it was made to survive in shitty environments, not be a rock crawler.
tl;dr, this

i know youre right, this is what everyone has been telling me.

>that fucking video
holy kek that is amazing

>With those anemic, shite engines.
anemic, maybe. but shite? how dare you
ill kill u fagit

its almost like the truck is good at what it was designed for and not that good at other things it wasnt designed for

My gasket is dying. The engine is misfiring from these stupid spark plug placement and the transmission is starting to leap. Want the heads from my FZ after I chuck it into the scrap yard to be melted down to make dildos (just like that mint FJ80 a few months back at the local scrap heap)?

VW 1.9 swap soon.

Also, I just took the snorkel scoop off and replaced it with one of those Defender cyclonic air intakes for the salt that will soon be on the road. This shit sprays at you on the highway so the cyclone will suck up much less of the salt and dust than the conventional scoop snorkel.

Nice! Fellow Virginian? I'm in the seven cities area. Gonna be going up that way with a few buddies to go camping and run that trail. Anything crazy to know about it

picking up one of these after the 1st of the year. Fucking hyped. After 2 land rovers, a trooper, and now my beat ass frontier it'll be nice to have something that kicks ass

Still on the fence between the 2.5 gen or a late model 3rd gen.

Nice. I am a fellow virgin, too.

Fuck yea! Any other trails you could recommend around here?

Seriously underrated 4x4. Seriously tough drivetrain for the relatively small-medium sized SUV it is.
Either the NL blister guard 2nd gen or the NM 3rd gen come with the SOHC 24V version of the 3.5, which suits the vehicle better than the outgoing DOHC of the earlier 2nd gens. The 2nd gen arguably has a tougher gearbox than the 3rd gen in the way of a 4 speed Aisin unit similar to the A340 fitted to Toyota 4Runners, Soarers and Aristos (which almost makes a 1UZ-FE bolt up pending engine mount modification) where as the 3rd gen had a 5 speed Jatco that wasn't quite as tough, but still adequate for mild towing. On the other hand both the 2nd and 3rd gen shared the V5M31 5 speed manual developed for the smaller Fuso Canters. Both have differentials on par with at least a 1/2ton pickup.

Guess the question is would you prefer the more truck like ruggedness of the 2nd gen or the more car like compliance and great handling of the 3rd gen? Both are just as capable stock, but the 2nd gen is easier to modify...

Do you have any pics of the roof?
It looks like you had a landau top; how much rust did you find?

Muh diff, before the lunch box locker install

are you doing a lunchbox yourself?

what vehicle and make?

>tortion

>VW 1.9 swap soon.

Chuck a fucking RB250DET into it cunt.
youtube.com/watch?v=eLYq5VZP3S8

Was for my 1987 K5 Jimmy, already installed the Spartan locker, had to pull it out of the 10 bolt rear that was under my old 1991 suburban. It was more work to remove the locker then it was to reinstall it, fucking C clips...

After second look, that was a pic of another 10 bolt rear we had at the shop, I left mine under the truck when installing the locker. Also installed one in the front axle, more work for the front

This was for you

No. I already bought my three Jettas. Even though that's hilarious, chucking racecar engines into 1970s boxy SUV body-on-frames are best left to the retarded Germans.

(though, I know this CJ-3 that has a skyline in it)

Nice. How do K5s hold up to lunchbox lockers with the shorter wheelbase (do they have a shorter wheelbase)?

also molesting boys is pretty fun i hear that was popular there

>mfw I went there with my dad when I was 10 and Dave took me around the back trails and down skyhill with me riding on the back of his quad
>after almost everyone there left like crazybritishbloke or rickem or other regulars for some reason

That's literally all he did though. The guy was uploading videos in 2015 but he got busted for cp again and no one knows or really cares what happened since.

these are cheap near me, thinking about picking up a 2002 model. They're around $1500 - 3000 with 120k miles. Quite the bang for the buck, and no meme tax.

>do they have a shorter wheelbase)?
not him, but way shorter. shorter than a shortbed. in my experience they tend to be more unpredictable in corners with the lunchbox than longbeds but it's manageable.

I'm the one with the K5 with lunchbox lockers, easy to drive on the road. Wheelbase is at 110" since I moved the front axle forward about 2" when I installer the 52" springs. With the automatic the locker is hardly noticeable. My S-10 which has similar wheelbase, but is a manual transmission is much more finicky since the clutch doesn't help smooth out the locker, have to be in a high gear and not on the throttle, or in neutral to stay smooth and allow the locker to unlock. It probably also helps the K5 has tools and more weight in the rear than the pickup. Both longer wheelbase and more weight help smooth out the locker action and allow it to unlock easier.

My old suburban had a Detroit in the 14 bolt rear, it was so smooth and quiet that you didn't even notice it unless you gased it in turn then it would chirp the inner tire as it sped up to the outer tires speed. The lunchbox lockers make more noise while operating, and occasionally pop or bang loudly, personally I love the racket they make, usually scares normies that are near by, or they think your shit is broken as it clicks away... Ha

Jump on it. Really surprising not to many others have cottoned on to them, but I guess many have an irrational fear of the Mitsubishi badge.

I think I'm going to, 1500 is beater money, and apparently they can do skinny 30 inch wheels without a lift

Well factory they're a 30-31" tire. You'll fit 32x11.5 without a lift on the 2nd gen. A 3rd gen will fit a 265/75R16 with around a +10 offset wheel without too much rubbing if it hasn't sagged much.

thanks for the info, i read they were smaller with the stock tire.

>paying over $500 for a beater
$1500-2000 will buy you a luxury 4x4, learn to shop around.

Stock tire on the 3rd gen is a 265/70R16 which works out to be a smidgen less than a 31x10.5.
Subframe drops have been done before on 3rd and 4th gens, although I haven't seen one up close. I imagine engine mounts would have to be modified amongst other things, but this opens up the ability to comfortably run 315/75R16s, or around 35". The 8"/9.5" diffs and 28/33 spline axles are more than up to the task of running bigger tires, and crown wheels are interchangeable between 3.5L 2nd gen and all 3rd gen Montys.

He said beater money, and well equipped Montero may as well be a luxury 4x4.

beater as in i dont care what happens to it, but I dont want it to break down in the middle of bum fuck nowhere

Since you're so good at shopping, would you mind helping me?

Recovering threads from the bog with Facebook memes

...

I send help to normies. Uwu technically offroad since I went on the curb.

is ORD a meme or actually worth the money? thinking about getting serious on a squarebody build.

Also look at DIY4x, they have lots of good squarebody parts. Get their B52 kit

benis around

why would driving off road be a meme
its fucking fun man

and if you go for a squarebody build make sure your canvas is clean. cleaning up rust will make you suicidal

I'm pretty sure he means the company ORD, which makes parts for square body Chevy trucks...

I'm pretty sure he means TRD, which is a meme.

I hear a lot of normies say that offroad driving is very dangerous. Do they mean for the person or for the car? How can going under 20 miles an hour in a forest or desert really be all that dangerous?

Toyotas are a meme period

Fuck off Crow

Don't be scared, just because you can't handle the battle wagon

>replies
Here. Have your (You) that you wanted

Winching, river crossings, etc. All dangerous. You're in the forest climbing rocks and shit of course it's bad.

>everyone is trying to convince me to go 2m though
Everyone just buys the handheld 2M gear on amazon and uses it without the Technician amateur radio license. Amazon sells a ton of those Baofeng radios and the chinese don't care about the USA laws.

>How can going under 20 miles an hour in a forest or desert really be all that dangerous?
No tow trucks will ever go out there, so if you strand your vehicle in a bad position, it's permanently stuck. And once damage makes it undriveable, it isn't getting towed over all the obstacles on the way back out.

...

Are they memes?

That thing keeps getting better and better

Are Rough Country lifts shit?

Yes. They block valuable space for storage and aren't that much cheaper compared to an entry roof top tent which is better in every way.

Yes, stiff riding and lack of flex, also cheap components.

>Not that much cheaper
The ones I was looking at were like 150 on Amazon vs 800+ for roof tops

'murica

Welp. That's actually pretty cheap. Those in bed tents with soft pillow bedliner linings werel ike $2000 at the local "truck accessory" shoppe catalogue. So I had just thought they'd be around $1000 on second market, gently used.

800 dollar rooftop tents are also really cheap.

Anyway, the point of a rooftop tent is element invulnerability (storms), time saver (pikes and whatever), and the fact that you don't need to unpack all your shit when you're overlanding. I'm not sure how easy it is to set up one of these bed tents but if they're that cheap, you could just buy it and see.

This.
Apples and oranges. You're comparing a nylon sheet erected by tent poles to an aluminium or steel framed fold out canvas canopy.
If cost is what you're after, just get a regular dome tent that doesn't require you to empty the bed to set up. Or one of these roll out swags that gives you the option of either bed or ground. ebay.com.au/i/230950382313?chn=ps&dispItem=1&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F705-139619-5960-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com.au%252Fi%252F230950382313%253Fchn%253Dps%2526dispItem%253D1%26itemid%3D230950382313%26targetid%3D343150688096%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9070517%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D903931668%26adgroupid%3D47748481609%26rlsatarget%3Daud-341483068029%3Apla-343150688096%26abcId%3D1129316%26merchantid%3D7616802%26gclid%3DCj0KCQjwyvXPBRD-ARIsAIeQeoF5I5hlK5_vX5gh22sJ1o7_a695cWYsHfPOjl7zDwE_OxVYU_N0pxoaAowZEALw_wcB%26srcrot%3D705-139619-5960-0%26rvr_id%3D1355028578373

Hi /org/. This isn't offroad related but I need a winter beater for driving safely onroad when the snow comes down. Should I get AWD meme or buy a trug and keep it in 4wd the whole winter?

Get a Mitsubishi Montero. Have the choice of 2WD, AWD, 4WD high and RWD low.

Yes. Total, complete, utter, Shit. Cheaped out on a lift for my Jeep JK, I mean 325 bones for a 2.5 shock and spring lift, why not right. Had it for nearly two years before finally shooting myself in the head and upgraded it to Rock Krawler springs and Fox IFP performance shocks. The front shocks alone cost as much as the RC 'kit'.

Difference was literally night and day. RC-Turd sammich, RK+Fox-Filet mignon. Spend your money once.... Till you break it then spend it again user.

Dead thread

Needs more suburban...

...

how can you have 4wd and awd? does it have a center diff and a t case?

Maybe it's like an auto 4x4 option. Not sure what they mean by it. My Tahoe and Pathfinder both have auto 4x4 but that's all I can think of.

AWD are sometimes nightmares to keep running if it's not in good shape. I'd say get an SUV or a truck with some weight in the bed. Use the 4x4 if you get stuck, and invest in either some recovery equipment for it or have other buddies you can call with tow straps and chains. Also, 4WD and AWD don't make you a better driver. Leave that shit in 2WD and pump the brakes, don't mash em, so you don't have to use your ABS.