QTDDTOT

What the hell is this tiny thing? It's not a golf cart.

It's a golfcart

okay so this is a repost from last thread, I hope I can get help getting my car running again
okay this is coming from an engine Brainlet here, this happened some time ago,basically this, i went on a drive to go run errands for family, and when i stopped right after getting out and shutting it off the radiator inlet bursted and puked out most of its juices, it seemed like obvious old wear and oil on the hose, broke right at the tensioner clamp because of its location near a leal, its normal i get why it happened, but after getting a new hose and replacing the fluids a few weeks later it would start to get this god awful miserable screetch that seemed directly tied to RPM, i know it wasn't Belts most of my belts because i've owned it long enough to know its squeals a little too intamitely, but something led me to believe it could have been water damage from the inlet bursting, i hoped electrical causing it to doit but feared water got in, near as i can tell the oil is AF free, the first thing i did was simply check plugs and change them, plugs and ever since taking them out i can't get the car to run at all whatsoever, i don't know what the fuck i did, or where to go from here, i've been able to ignore, it, but i cant now It will start, but smells of gas and clearly doesn't idle high enough, it dies altogether usually with a backfire in gear i haven't been able to find a vaccum leak and i've cleaned the carb as best i could with it on, ( i don't have the know how or funds to do a proper rebuild rn) I have no clue what my next step is, i now have a reason to need to fix it, my loaner is broken & winter approaches, car in question is the only 4x4 i have.

TL; DR Radiator Hose busted, car started a strange squeaking, i thought electrical, can't get car to run since changing plugs Have done every gap from vehicle OEM to og plugs gaps they had, trans is auto btw, haven't tried replacing rotor or wires yet, money Is tight, until I find problem

Hmm, maybe the gauges are just for show then?

by can't run I specifically mean it bow has a terrible idle even with carb screws cranked comically high, putting it in gear kills it even if I give it gas, it just can't run it will choke and die, I'm really lost on why, and I don't know if it's something I did yet or not. Distributor cap seems corrosion free. I just don't know what 5h3 issue could be

What's a fun car I can get for 25k?

I drove a Accords for 10 years and want something fun. Thinking about the 86/BRZ.

Are there any relatively modern (let's say made in last 15 years) cars with following features?

Sedan, the comfiest and quietest body style.
6 cylinder engine (preferably a N/A inline one).
Manual transmission.
RWD with LSD.
Relatively reliable at least as far as the engine and drivetrain goes.
Not being too prone to rust.

While my 30 year old Mercedes Benz 300E is a good car I'd finally like to get a newer car that is like it but no matter how hard I try I can't seem to find anything that fills out the all preferences I posted above. The lack of manual transmission in particular annoys me, every-time I find something that seems promising I find it's autotragic only. It's literally like now that I finally have the disposable income to buy a newish car the type of cars I want no longer exists.

Do TDIs need the same prep work as gas engines for 50-150 shots of nitrous?

Recently moved to an area with an elevation of about 7,700 ft and would like to get the same power I had at almost sea level for things such as passing. I have a 2011 VW Jetta TDI. Installing a rawtek performance exhaust system with a malone stage 2 tune. Going to see how bad the coal rolling is after and am trying to do nitrous research now in case it rolls coal badly.

Thank you.

I think he may have went a little too far.

BMW 328i for NA, 335i or M3 for turbo

note: 2011 and newer 328i has I4 turbo instead of na I6

my lower back hurts a lot on long drives and i have to do them often. what car has the best lumbar support in the driver seat? thank you for any help

It's held on by pop rivets then if the trim piece that came off doesnt have replaceable rivets you'll need to replace the entire trim piece.

The tire and wheel, which may require you taking the wheel off to inspect both.

E39, but you won't get an lsd, you'll have to have do a quaife lsd swap for that.

>Recently moved to an area with an elevation of about 7,700 ft and would like to get the same power I had at almost sea level for things such as passing. I have a 2011 VW Jetta TDI. Installing a rawtek performance exhaust system with a malone stage 2 tune. Going to see how bad the coal rolling is after and am trying to do nitrous research now in case it rolls coal badly.

Just increase the boost according to the pressure required to get the mass flow back to normal according to the air density at that altitude.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law

any car + a $20 lumbar support.

._. i guess ur right thanks

Use an adjustable external waste gate and blow off valve. It's the pressure at the intake that will be determined with the ideal gas law, not the pressure at the turbine

not trying to be a dick, i just think theres much more to look for in a car... my back is shit and just buying a $3 back support from a Daiso (japanese dollar store) solved all my problems...

I know that SUVs have gotten much safer iover time. Are SUVs from the 90's the ones that are the were the least safe?

Some mid luxury cars like Mercury, Buick, etc.. have them. My brothers 98 Grand Marquis has adjustable pneumatic lumbar support.

Buy the cheapest shit you can

I'm gonna be installing some headers but they came with non- high temp paint. Do I need to get it off before putting them on? My car's enough of a fire hazard as is

How hard is it to change an outer door handle usually? Some fuck broke mine off a back door and I'd rather just buy the $30 part and replace it myself if I can. The child lock's on, so I'll have to figure out how to get the door open (I assume), but other than that, is this something most people could handle?

I'd imagine that the difference would be negligible

What kind of car is it? Generally, the hardest part of the job will be to get the door trim off without fucking it up and breaking off all the plastic clips.

It's an '09 Mitsubishi Galant. I've pulled off the driver's door trim before without too much trouble, so I don't think the back one should be any different from that.

What kind of engine is it? Also your wall of text is hard to read

No worries then. You'll just have to get the door open. I have no idea how your car goes together but if it's one of the child locks that can only be switched when the door is open, you'll probably have to take a chisel to the old outer handle so you can grab the handle's cable with a some pliers or something.

Depends on mileage and idle hours. SUPER nice condition P71's from 2005-2009 go for $2,000 to $3,800 with under 100k on them.
The cops do abuse them but they also have a motor pool for a reason and take pretty damn good care or them.
If you're going for early 2000's I wouldn't pay more than $2,000. If it has over 120k I wouldn't even buy an early 2000's. go for mid to late 2000's

Yeah, the child lock's inside the door so you can only get to it with the door open. The old handle's pretty well destroyed. I can see the cable from the outside, so I can just grab that to open the door? Is there any risk to doing that with the battery connected, or should I wait to disconnect the negative terminal first?

Same poster as To add to that.
In my city I can get right now a 2009 p71 with the pursuit package and fully kitted with either a K9 package or all the bars and dividers, with 80k on it for $3,750.

I doubt it will matter. 98.5% of the time the door lock delatching system is all mechanical unless you have auto opening doors or some other retarded shit.

Okay, so.

I got my only car diagnosed for some problems I've been having, with some cost estimates, and my general verdict with my current finances is: I'm fucked.

>both front struts are gone/worn out
>$750 for the pair

>internal rack and pinion damage
>$700

>oil pan gasket leak
>$500

I have maybe $1,000 in my entire life if I close my eyes and pray. I have no other form of transportation.

What's my only hope? Some $500 Craigslist special? I can't afford any of this. I doubt doing any of this myself will save much money. Should I just kill myself?

Anything you buy for $500 is going to be a shitbox that will require expensive repairs. If you're as NEET as you sound, now is a good opportunity to learn car repairs from YouTube.

I'm not NEET, I have a job, but after all my expenses I barely break even, if I start throwing money at my car problems I won't have enough to eat.

Maybe catch the bus till you have your shit together, m8.
Also
>replace oil pan gasket
>$500
Sounds like you're getting kiked. What car is it?

...

I know it sucks my dude, but you might be better off finding rides from friends while you save up to fix your car or get a decent condition car. As far as saving money, sometimes it helps to buy your own parts; my preferred mechanic really overcharges for parts but otherwise does a great job, so I buy parts ahead of time and bring them to him. That can help a lot depending on your mechanic and the problem itself. Depending on how bad the oil leak is, maybe you can get by just adding oil to keep it at the right level, but that won't work well if the leak is big. A $500 Craigslist shitbox will most likely have just as many (if not more) problems than your current car, but if you're going to try that, I'd tend toward highish mileage older cars; a newer car priced at $500 has something seriously wrong with it, but if you're looking at late 90s models, that might just be the best price they can eek out for the thing in decent condition. In the mean time, seriously consider any alternative options you have (bus, friends, family member willing to sell their old car cheap to you/take payment over time).

I appreciate it. I put a bid down that'll work out to about $1250 after taxes. Its a little sentimental to me since it was the small town that I grew up in and my family basically owned the town from the 1830's-1950's. Worse comes to worse I'll just buy one off craiglist for less than $2k

What's the most you would pay for an early 90-93's RX-7 in good condition?
You need to know that they are fucking expensive in germany.

Struts are like $50 at a junkyard and an oil pan gasket costs like $30 tops. If you're tight on money, you gotta do it yourself

My Saab 9-5 is pretty good. Great road trip car, they're quiet, powerful, comfortable and get about 30 mpgs on the highway. You can also buy them in decent shape for $3-4k. Get an 04 or newer if you can.

The FD started in 1992 right? The FC was 1991 and earlier. Huge difference in price, so which one are we talking? A good clean FD is $25-35k in the USA, while a good clean FC is like $4k to 7k. 10 years ago both were cheaper but they're getting harder to find.

apologies for the wall, i'll try to give max info to work with without dragging it on an AMC 258 I6,

Right now on my list of things i haven't been able to cross off is
Fuel Pump
Distributor
Outright cylinder warping or piston damage from the water leak from water INSIDE engine, though this seems highly unlikely oil isn't separated like it has anything else in it
as far as Vacuum leak goes i haven't found even a hint of it with the spray technique

I killed the battery as it hasn't ran in a few months so ill soon to get maybe eliminate fuel pump. Perhaps i should explain the chain of events better to maybe help lead to what it could be
>radiator inlet bursts
>replace and refill car runs fine
>weeks later god awful retched screeching [spoiler]this just may have been a rusted bearing the whole time i totally never even though of corrosion of a pulley bearing[/spoiler]
>my brainlet head thought it could be warped cylinder or misfiring/ damaged plugs
>replace them all
>now won't run at all/ when it does it surges and dies in gear, barely able to idle

I initially overlooked fuel pump as it seemed a bit silly a time for it to fail like that, but i get an awful gas smell when it tries to run or idles rough and wont go into gear, which still makes me harp on it being electrical/fuel, either its dumping fuel somewhere or it can't burn it, or actual physical damage its causing the pistons to not be able to cycle properly. The fuel pump is a mechanical one(in red), placed below the leak spot the rad inlet blew (in blue), even though it sealed i know antifreeze can fucking with alot of things. And it definitely made a mess so it is possible, or it hit the distributor which is right behind it.

pic is not related, just same car model and engine

Yeah, but what about the rack and pinion.

Have you tried the old plugs again? When you say it's running shit, do you mean it sounds like it's dropped cylinders or like a shitty fuel cough and fart shitty idle

Plug wires in the correct order? You're 100% sure they are, right?

Did it overheat?

Take your quote to a different mechanic and ask them what they think. The money they're charging you for labour is pure kikery. It shouldn't cost you $470 in labour to change a fuckin sump gasket.

What part wears out the fastest when driving in rough terrain with a regular car? Pic related

The wires can only go in one order off the distributor because of how they are positioned. and cable length, so no. i.e Cylinder one is the longest cord that comes off the right , the 2 cylinders very near to distributor are very short cables, the cap itself doesn't look scored at all to me.
And as far as overheat? No i cant be for certain though, i've never had it run hot outside of highway use, even then the needle is above half way at most. But that thermostat could be faulty. and it did seem to have ran alitte hot the day the inlet blew (though this seems a coincdence as an oil leak is what ate the inlet away at the pressure clamp)

See this is what blew about the old plugs, i lost 2 of them, and it seemed to make only a tiny bit of difference going 4 old, 2 new, i've based my gap off of that and the OEM and a few in between with little difference

> When you say it's running shit, do you mean it sounds like it's dropped cylinders or like a shitty fuel cough and fart shitty idle

I can't really say if its dropped a cylinder, i've gotten it to sound somewhat normal just cranking the screws on the carb, at best. didn't sound like a dropped cylinder to me. it is a shitty fuel cough, fart and idle, typically with a backfire or fart out the carb when it dies. Very shaky and rough idle. even if you get on the gas when you drop into gear it pops with a fuel smell. Which makes me think im not getting burn now, or its not fueling properly

Suspension and wheel bearings.

I paid $12000 for my 2009 P71 with 19K miles on it

yes

Check to see if you've cracked the insulation on the plugs when putting them in. If not, buy a new set anyway. Just go with manufacturer gap as a few mm either way isn't going to cause these problem. Also make sure you haven't fucked up the inside of the leads when removing.
Try gravity feeding you carbie fuel to by pass the pump and see if it runs better.
If you have a little fuel filter inline (you should), flush it out backwards and see if it runs any better. If it does, replace it.
Make sure you didn't fuck up the timing or firing order when you were playing with the distributor. If the distributor isn't tight, it only takes a bump to fuck everything up

bump

okay new plugs it is, should i just buy new new cables and cap while i'm at it to eliminate those?, the cables and plug were dirty and oily they SEEMED okay on contact points though. The Distributor is loose but it can only rotate so much but i only went to toying with timing after repeated failed results in getting into run after the plug change retard and advance didn't seem to make any difference

If you hadn't changed them last service then yes, but I doubt that's what's causing you issues
>the distributor only rotates so much
Lol m8. The act of rotating your distributor a little is adjusting your timing. You need to time it properly, then tighten the bolt that stops it from rotating only a little. Do this first because it costs no money and is probably the issue.

>the distributor only rotates so much
yeah i know that came out weird, i know that sounds fucky but i hadn't touched it until repeated attempts with plugs, i found out it was loose on accident by checking the cap as i went to pry it and the whole thing moved so i lost the original position of my dizzy, i almost thought this was my light bulb moment. however i then ran it and tried creeping around to what should have been a really easy spot to find it to run right, but to no avail, basically i feel ive been making problems for myself this whole damn process, and i dont want to keep adding more myself so i haven't touched it til now, out of neccesity

Get a timing light, my man

My steering wheel is disintegrating what is it and how do o stop it?

Probably sun damage. Get a leather wrap for it.

Thank you

should i turbo charge my rx7 fb with a rebuilt 12 a engine? and if i should which turbo should i get

It's aight

>bought used car
>worked out 6 months later it was an ex-rental car
>disappoint but can do nothing
>been taught to reverse and shift into d while car is still rolling backward (slowly) to avoid wear on brakes
>dad says bad for transmission
>transmission now shuddering on take-off and weirdly also on stopping

What do?

The Saab 9-3 is pretty good too, I wish I had the 9-5 though. Really comfy and rides smooth for a GM/Saab bastardization.

>been taught to reverse and shift into d while car is still rolling backward (slowly) to avoid wear on brakes

Who the fuck told you that? And you believed them?

Your wet clutch packs are probably fucked, which means you'll need a new transmission.

My stepdad, he does it in his truck and it is old af. If it is bad for it I will obviously stop doing it.

Unironically, un-meme-ingly, I have never actually watched Initial D beyond watching a couple race scenes.

Is there any point whatsoever to watch it as an anime, or could I get away with just watching the actual racing and skipping all the non-car bullshit?

>wear part that is hard to replace to avoid wear on part that is easy to replace
full retard

Why would it wear it out? I'm trying to educate myself but why would it wear out isn't it just applying drive to the car which is effectively in neutral as its not reverse -> D tis reverse -> n -> d

Literally the only fucking rule anyone driving automatic learns, or should learn, is:

>DO NOT SHIFT FROM REVERSE TO FORWARD GEARING (e.g. Drive) WHILE THE CAR IS IN MOTION.

When you pass through the "neutral" notch on an auto's stick, you are not actually performing the mechanical equivalent of putting the car in neutral, unless you are there for a moment (as selecting "N" tells the car to go to neutral gearing, unlike a manual transmission where you are physically taking the transmission out of gear when you are in the middle of the shifter).

TL;DR whoever the fuck 'taught' you about that 'trick' was either trolling the fuck out of you, or literally knows nothing about autotragics, and your dad actually knows what the fuck he's talking about... and you ignored him. Some fucking son you are, user.

So is it safe to roll an automatic which is in "neutral gearing" as you so put it?

when you shift into drive your transmission is connecting the wheels (output shaft) to the engine (input shaft)
it does this with clutches
the amount of work the clutches have to do is proportional to the difference in speed between the input and output shafts, this difference is greatest when the output shaft speed is 0, so that's when the clutches are doing the most work
your transmission is designed to handle this, but if you increase the difference between the 2 speeds (like making the input shaft speed higher than engine idle or making the output shaft speed less than 0 by having the car roll backwards) the transmission will have to do more work and wear out faster

The only reason you should ever directly place an auto into neutral is when you need minimal resistance to movement (e.g. pushing it out of a ditch, towing it, etc.)

Otherwise, automatics will automatically (sorry, not trying to be redundant here) go into neutral when you come to a stop, and then leave neutral when you start moving again. The system "knows" when to be in neutral.

However, there is literally no other situation other than outside forces acting upon the vehicle that you should force the neutral/disengaged gearing.

side note: it's not fully connecting the wheels to the engine until you're at a certain speed, where the torque converter locks up

Every automatic I've driven stays in 1st instead of going to neutral at a stop, unless you count double clutch gearboxes

Mr2

>Otherwise, automatics will automatically (sorry, not trying to be redundant here) go into neutral when you come to a stop, and then leave neutral when you start moving again. The system "knows" when to be in neutral.

That's not how it works. What happens is there not enough momentum of fluid flowing against he turbine in the torque converter to move the car against the brakes. That's why you have to keep your foot on the brake pedal or the car will creep forward.

Is correct.

For short distances yes, the problem comes in when towing as the transmission will heat up when being pulled and has no way of cooling itself off as when the car is running and moving under its own power.

Look for repair videos on YouTube and see if you think you'd be capable. The sump should be easy, not sure about the rest tho

I just finished a big job of changing both front control arms on the left side, the shock, tie rod and the sway bar link.

It's all feeling alright, and I need an alignment, and I'm still on the space saver so I need a new wheel, but I'm hearing a couple groans that didn't used to be there.

In addition to that there's some intense groaning noise when I turn hard right to do a U turn. The car pulls to the right slightly atm. All the parts were second hand.

I'm gunna have a mechanic check it out, but any 2 cents or things I could look for before taking it to the mechanic jew?

What exactly can I do to a 05 Taurus sel besides turning it into a hooptie on 20's. Its got a decent engine.

I agree with this guy. Carried out a 700 dollar job for under 200 using youtube vids. Especially if its an MR2, there will be heaps of videos thatll be step by step guides

You aren't gonna be able to tell what's up till you get a full tyre on it. BTW driving on a cuck spare is fucking retarded.

I munched the wheel when i hit the curb that caused the damage and wanted to drive it cuz it was out of action for 3 weeks, sue me

How the fuck do you drive rear wheel drive in sand?

Where should I go to figure out what kind of car I should get as a first time owner? To educate myself. I know nothing about cars other than that I think the 300C looks sexy and I liked the Dodge Viper as a kid. Fuck all basically.

Is there like a checklist or something to keep in mind when browsing used cars? Like amount of km driven - price ratio or some shit, things to look for etc.

Tell me why i shouldnt buy a later RX-7 from 1997+ instead of a early FD3S?
I ask because the Sticky recommend the RX-7 from 83-93.