QTDDTOT

Can I replace my NB Miata head unit with the head unit from another Mazda of the same year?

Specifically this one
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/382253934658

It's gone buddy, just watch Craigslist either the original owner will relist it , most likely at a different price or someone else will post one for sale. Also you suck for not posting pic of the car you want

Cashiers checks are a thing

Get a bank loan, most big bank chains and credit unions offer personal auto loans. Never use cash for craigslist purchases more than $3k, just give him a bank check or get the seller to drive to a local bank branch and do the transaction there.

>cashiers check
Easily faked.

Yeah but anxiety of being in confined spaces with people without the ability to escape.

I guess I could dope up on benzos beforehand

DON'T DO THIS. Road trips aren't bad for cars such that they need special preparation before driving. Flushing your engine and cumming inside it with seafoam may potentially fuck it up, especially if it's old. If you do that shit you might clean away carbon deposits and your engine will get looser tolerances at the places where the carbon used to be. If you flush your engine you might break lose oil coke that could clog up other oil channels in the engine.

If there's anything you don't want to do, it's changing your routine right before a big job. Changing oil, coolant, doing wheel alignment and checking belts is always good. But this is just as important for short trips. If you really want to prepare for a road trip make sure you have emergency wheel/supplies and extra oil/coolant. Highway driving will do your car good as opposed to city driving (disregarding the extra miles you're putting on it).

Just make sure YOU'RE prepared, the car won't dissapoint you. It's a fucking Camry after all.

It's going to take you 30 hours to get there, so 60+ hours of driving or 3 days. So a few hours on a plane is that much worse?

Why are PIT maneuvers so hard to evade? Why not just accelerate or decelerate?

does anybody know how to check a vin without shelling out money on the test?

You need a faster car to do that. Most criminals have cars slower than police cruisers.

The few that are faster than the cops are street racers, not murderers, kidnappers, drug runners, and bank robbers. The cop stance on those running is "they'll be back, we'll get them later"

>one day later
>fifty cruisers along the edge of the toegay
>dagumi tyson and street rossi jones blocked in

Not an expert on your car specifically, but at most you need an adapter harness if the connectors don't match already.

Take your head unit out, watch the connectors on the back and see if they are the same as the ones in the pictures.

There is no reason that unit can't work on your car, provided there is enough space for it to fit, the only problem can come from the connectors, and that can be fixed by buying an adapter (if it exists), making your own connectors or going to a scrapyard, finding the car that unit was originally fitted on, cutting the connectors and using them to make your own adapter.

relevant
youtube.com/watch?v=NI7EYAb-cBU

one of the first youtube videos i ever watched, good times.

Don't have pics because the listing was deleted. I'm just conflicted because I've gotten a date and time to pick up the goddamn shitbox and I'm too chicken to chew out the seller for fear of a misunderstanding.

Because at those speeds everything happens so fast that most drivers are unable to react in time or to not overcorrect and spin in the other direction. Not to mention that sometimes there is not enough room to recover from the spin and they either end up in a ditch or lose so much speed that the chase is over anyway.

Once you are 45°+ sideways at highway speed with another car pushing you even more sideways, there is little you can do to avoid the situation, even if you had the reflexes to react in time and the room to recover safely, especially considering you have the nose of a car that is actively preventing you from recovering and will keep on doing so until you finally give up or your car is so damaged that it can't keep going anymore.

Yeah, as a logical person it bugs me too.

It comes down to control. I can't control the plane, but I can control my car.

Getting a mercury mountaineer from my cancer ridden grandfather. Anyone know anything about these? Pros? Cons? Things I need to look out for?

Why are steel pistons a thing in diesel engines, but not in gas engines?

V8?

Except you can't control your car, in the course of 800 miles your more then likely going to a) pop a tire b) overheat and lose all your radiator fluid c) have your serpentine belt snap d)because your serpentine belt exploded it's likely it's going to catch a few wires on its way out and rip them off their connections. And finally d) get hit by some other dumbass that you share the road with that you also have no control over. So just take a plane and stop being an autist

Yes. Earlier or mid 2000's model. Not exactly sure. I have to drive an hour to go get it today or tomorrow so I don't know much about it yet.

Are crossfire’s good cars?

>For Craigslist anyone know how to purchase cars over their budget?

Bring a gun.

Speak to your bank and a solicitor.

>800 miles your more then likely going to a) pop a tire b) overheat and lose all your radiator fluid c) have your serpentine belt snap

How shit are american cars?

Camry, a toyota. So, Japanese.

Question: What's the best way to deal with a possibly faulty catalytic converter?

The OBD code reads P0420. During a MOT it turned out that my car ('02 Audi 1.8 petrol engine) goes over emissions limit. I've been to a mechanic already and I was told that the way to go is an emulator for the sensors. That would erase the error code and the engine light, sure, but it doesn't address the catalytic converter problem. Is there a way to inexpensively fix it without buying a new one? Because for my car these are ridiculously expensive.

Well it's an old jap car owned by a poor person who has likely never done any services and probably got it from a person who also did no services.

I'm giving the 2nd user seal of approval on this, too much chaos in the engine before a long trip is risky

Diesel engines run on fuel detonation, while gas engines run off planned ignition. Detonation of fuel in a gas engine is very bad, and can destroy even a built engine. Diesel detonation happens more slowly, thus a steel engine is able to handle it effectively. The weight savings is worth it in the gas engine from steel to cast or even aluminum

Would buying a LS400 with 200k+ miles be a bad idea? phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/d/1998-lexus-ls400/6355658904.html

Cats are pretty much one-shot deals, once they're gone there's no way to refresh their chemical properties to new again. Does your car's exhaust smell?

LS400 is pretty well respected on Veeky Forums, with these types of cars anything above 100k miles is completely case by case. If you go to see it and it looks good, buy it. If it looks and sounds like its going to fall apart, dont get it.

>Cats are pretty much one-shot deals
Aw this really sucks

>Does your car's exhaust smell?
MOT guy said it smells pretty bad but I don't think it's worse than any other car it's age

>Small leak in rack
This is an easy fix, new chinese racks are only a few hundo
>oil loss from valve covers
I never quite trust this explanation.
>tires
put aside a grand

Get an emulator and shut up about the environment already.

It's not so much about the enviroment, I couldn't give less of a fuck about emissions, what worries me is passing the MOT test and having a potentially clogged up, inefficient exhaust.

If you dont care about the smell just get the emulator, alternatively you could get a knockoff chinese cat(eh) or go to a junkyard and try to find a car with the same cat and yank it, that engine is uniquitous between that gen's A4, A3, VW Golf, Passat and Jetta. It would probably be ~$20, but you have to deal with the junkyard car and yours. I'd recommend the emulator

Alright many thanks! I think I'll settle for the emulator right now, cheers. (Although I might visit a scrapyard or two sometime)

Anyway, thanks so much for the advice user!

Are there any good reasons why I shouldn't install a shitty 100 dollar ebay cold air intake in my econobox?

No timing belt status is a huge red flag.

ye plently of reasons not to
100 of them infact

Could I take a turbo from a different brand of car and slap it into another?

>I messaged the seller but is it possible to see if he sold the car by looking up a title check to see if it's been renewed?

Complete waste of time, and probably will cost you money, even if the new owner chooses to register it immediately.

Move on dude.

I'm looking for a 3" lift kit for a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac, but I'm not sure if I should go with a Body lift or a suspension lift. Body lift doesn't seem to really change clearance (I'm using it for offroading and roadtripping), so I'm leaning more towards the suspension lift kit. Which would be better suited for me?

The 302's in them are relatively simple and reliable, but have a tendency to leak. The kicker is that fords from that era have spotty interior quality and tend to fall apart if not taken care of.

In gas engines you want things to be light, in diesels you want things to be heavy.

If you lived in the states you probably could get ahold of an aftermarket cat and run new pipes and a muffler out the back + labor for less than half of what an oem exhaust system cost you.

I would go with the suspension lift. Body lifts are to my knowledge only used to get extra room for bigger tires.

Tha'ts what I was thinking. From looking, it seems damn near impossible to find a 3" one, I've only seen 4.5 and up. I'll have to keep looking.

Yeah but you need to run all the plumbing yourself, figure out oil feed if it needs it, wastegate it, probably get new injectors, perhaps fuel pump, and more. Turboing is no joke

>In gas engines you want things to be light, in diesels you want things to be heavy.
But steel pistons weight 5-7% less than aluminium pistons and have a significantly lower height?

So go to pick and pull find a low millage car with a similar exhaust pipe size cut the cat out of that, bring that cat to an exhaust shop and have them install it behind your other cat, boom mot pass then slice it out clean it up and sell it

>Diesel engines run on fuel detonation
Actualy Diesel combustion is far from detonation and pretty slow compared to gas combustion.
That is also the reason why there are pretty much no Diesels reving 7000 rpm+

You have to watch your oxygen sensors, as well, if one is after the cat, install the new one in front of the old one.

Fuck alright thanks man

Your right, I was thinking he would already have something fooling the computer but just putting the new one in front would be better

youtu.be/TkapHYS_nYA
This guy shift into first gear flawlessly from 2nd. How is that possible? I thought that you could put first only at around 10km/h and how does it shift without the car jerking forward?

Just lol. That would be like 3 weeks of driving to work and back for me. If 1000km kills your shitbox, it shouldn't be on the road.

He heel-toed:
>on brake with toes
>engage clutch
>blimp throttle with heel
>downshift
>disengage clutch

Sometimes you need to doubble cluch as well:

>brake with toes
>engage clutch
>put in neutral
>disengage clutch
>blimb throttle
>engage clutch
>downshift

I know about heel toe and double clutch but I didn't know that you could also do that for first gear.

>What routine maintenance should I do before then?

I would do:
>oil(better a bit high)
>tire pressure/status
>spare wheel
>wheel bolts/nuts
>coolant level
Maybe timing and serpentine belt as well

You can, but usually most races don´t require you to go below 2nd.
But I do that all the time...

-t delivers pizza with anemic shitbox (93 Nm/4800rpm)

>doesn't do anything
>doesn't look good
>not visible from outside
>you waste 100 dollars
Now think of what you could buy with a 100 dollars.
>headunit/sound system
>cheap/used tires
>mexican chiptune?

>MUSTANGS CANT TUR-

Hey I was wondering. I might have a lot of emotional problems. Should I pay a therapist to talk with or should I rather spend my money on sikk modz and gas for long pointless cruises to nowhere and back?

buy some lsd

How much to do a quarter panel if I pay shop.
Cut and weld and whatever.

Do what?

My engine used to idle high.
Replaced a leaky broken VVT soleniod that caused my timing to be advanced all the way constantly.
Now it sits at proper idle but after a while it will climb back to a higher idle. What could be the source of this?

Replace entirely. If a new panel is provided. Just the body work of it, not including painting.

Is it just a bolt on panel?

if your car has a k20, you can swap in a type r motor using stock mounts

Cut the whole thing off and weld a new one on. It's an old f-body. I have a fresh panel and just want the one on the car cut and removed, then replaced with my new panel in a seemless fashion.

no, cutting and welding and gridings and making smooth and all that.

Nigger, if it needs to be cut out, it's not a panel.

Quarter PANEL
You're gonna tell me it's a fender right. Ffs you know what I mean.

Nah, I don't. Take a photo

This

More than your shitbox is worth. Also they'd probably want the whole shell rather than just a piece that you autistically cut out yourself. How bad is it that you think it would be worth doing all this?

Man you are a retard. I can do it myself but I have the car put away and I'd rather get it done by someone else over the winter. I had a spare car to chop up and cut the panel wide obviously. It's a pretty simple question and I want a price. Body guys talk to me, not waterheads.

you could buy a nice 100$ dinner for you and a good friend or you could get a length of pipe to make your shitbox drone more.
i dunno man

MIROSHIIIIII
carbon synchros help A LOT for quick gear changes between widely spaced ratios

Do it yourself then. All im saying is that there's a shitload of man hours involved in this shit to get it perfect. Then you'll have to paint it.

he needs more front tire

Does it do that when it's cold out? Automatic choke perhaps.

What?

Ah, I see.

I'm aware french cars don't have a good reputation here.
How bad an idea is it to get a cheap used renault/peugot/citroen beater?

Depends on model and engine, keep in mind that the electronics will shit themselfes after about 10-15 years.
>peugeot/citroen
Depending on model engine is PSA or Toyota sourced, stay away from anything with fancy features.
>Renault
Twingos make a good and cheap beater, but use decent rear tires...

If the rotary engines are only 1.3L and makes decent power, why doesnt Mazda make a 2-3L rotary as a supercar/performance car. I know the consumption would be bad, but wouldnt it make a really powerful enthusiast car?

I'm guessing the Toyota engine is better? Which were they used in?
We don't have a lot of them here (Aus), including C1, 107 and Twingo. I was thinking of something mid-sized with a diesel engine around the 8-10 year old mark.

Mazda is fairly small and that sort of thing costs a lot for something that probably won't make money.
They apparently have a team working on the rotary and there's a good chance they'll have something for 2020 but the market is headed towards EVs and crossovers.