Evo 6: what am I in for?

Injector o-rings are a cheap fix, there has to be more to this I'd guess.

Need to test the compression and possibly do a leak down as well.

Understeer city.

You've got to be trolling, it's well known how to throttle steer any of the Evos with ayc or sayc. I guess the USDM models could be to with some changed diffs.

youtube.com/watch?v=RA9P72b-6JI

>manages to have fun drifting every car except the GTO and LANEVO which are both just understeer city.

Yeah I live in Quebec, fuuuckk I'm so sad. Why were they used in rally if they suck so much? What are other fun alternative to the Evo 6? I want something light, nimble and can resist canadian winters

Anything Japanese will rust:

VW R32 (240hp/3300lbs) or Audi TT 225 (225hp/3200lbs)

>Not as powerful as a Evo/STi
>Not as raw
>Not as reliable
>Comfier
>Won't rust if washed (For all the shit I've given MKIV VWs; you have to crash them for the to rust out badly).
>Has mod potential (Turbo VR6 for R32 will make retarded power; TT 225 is a 1.8T KO4 same as S3 capable of 300~whp without much effort).
>Handle far better than your average MKIV VW; definitely not as good as a Evo/STi but still very competently.

You could also just buy a used Focus/Fiesta ST.

I ain't touching anything german. Let's say I have autism, how much could I expect to re-paint all the car with clear coat and everything? I really fucking want one, not a lot of cars compares to it

Undercoat it every year, be autistic detailing/washing it, take care of whatever rock chips, get a newer one (GDBs have way better rustproofing than GC8s and ver7 GDB STis are already legal; I'd imagine its the same for Evo 4-6 vs CT9A 7-9s), or better; just buy a second car and keep it as a summer car.

Those two are actually reliable for German cars and cheap/simple being based off Golfs. I have a friend of mine that has a R32 as a track car and goes every other weekend. Worst issue he had was a power steering pump die. The factory KO4 1.8Ts have upgraded internals and a stronger 6 speed too so you could take them to 350-400whp safely.

Ford STs also do a great job at feeling like AWD Rally Cars too. Helps Ford is the only car company still making rally cars in 2017.

This is the left side unibody frame rail... this car has never been undercoated.

I gotta get it done before it disappears Haha, I sanded down that rust and re-painted it with like 6 layers of rattle can in the engine bay, so hopefully it's good now.

Damn what are you waiting for? Can you undercoat it before it's imported?

youtube.com/watch?v=Nivpk3XjLHs

youtube.com/watch?v=fc_XmUSjxRI

Subaru just couldn`t compete.

Evos only have a reputation of unreliability because everyone tries to squeeze 500+ HP out of the little 2.0L and expect everything to work. The fact they don't blow up more often is commendable considering what is done to them.

I just want to keep it bone stock, maybe some mods for reliability but not power. Also what's better, Evo 6 RS or GSR?

Mainly time and money... lack both of those things.

I just picked up snow tires and some 02 WRX wheels today... because summer tires in the snow are fucking scary if you require stopping.

Just undercoating wont do if were talking about an ancient Japcar in any kind of damp, or winter conditions. You have to rustproof it too, especially the inside panels and all the little nooks and crannies with some rustproofing wax, or oil such as Tectyl, Krown, etc. Preferably done annually.

Pic related, a typical R33 in current year.

Also regular undercoating is shit for actual rustproofing (its just bitumen, or some rubber compound after all and is prone to cracking) and once moisture gets under it, it will rust. Only use rustproof undercoating on metal parts.

Lanolin. People seem to think there is a big secret to rust proofing. The only way to prevent rust is to have a thick grease to cover the metal that displaces water. Cosmoline is used in guns for a reason.

The Swiss military used lanolin grease to preserve their rifles. I have one that I stripped down after 50-60 years of storage and it is immaculate. You can see that the grease was needed to protect the metal.

What you need is rust converter. After you sand it down you want to use a converter to ensure that you really got to the base metal again. Then follow up with grease after the converter does its job.

Japanese cars of the era were designed for Japanese roads. Japanese roads don't have salt, they either use chains or studless winter tires. The rustproofing requirements are much lower when you don't have an active electrolyte to cause corrosion.

This is what people don't get. You could absolutely drive a JDM Evo or STi in the winter, but only if you drive where roads are never salted.

I did use rust converter on it, made sure it was all dry, and then painted it with several layers.

Yes there is tons of runs, no I don't give a fuck.

If it keeps coming back, you should be smearing some lithium or lanolin grease on the areas to make sure it doesn't come back. There is no fucking way steel can rust when there's no oxygen or water on it.

That's 100% questionable. If it doesn't run, start with the assumption that it needs a rebuild or may even need a total block/head replacement and go from there.

The Evo III to VI isn't a fair comparison. The III lacked ayc in any form and the engine and drive train layout was more similar to the 1g and 2g Eclipse and Talon.

In that video too I noticed the test driver was using the same foot technique whether the car was rwd or awd. If he had added left foot braking to any of the awd cars he would have been able to more easily induce rotation, regardless of the drive train setup.

Now for some Evos rotating

youtube.com/watch?v=OANj6Lp6tyY

youtube.com/watch?v=2uslS07ySLY

youtube.com/watch?v=qYiAczF1-Qg

I've been dailying my VI, in Canada for 2 years now, and its still mint. Maybe I've been lucky, or just cautious, but it's held up so far. Just tuning is a hassle, but I think Edmonton has a decent jdm dyno shop.

Driven all year round? How did you buy it (import)? Maintenance and reliability?

???

>what's better, Evo VI RS or GSR?
you haven't done much research have you?

I meant the differential, the GSR has a AYC and the RS a mechanical LSD. Which is better?

AYC but you'll want to swap it for a later model anyway. they started plating them on the VII which prevents a lot of reliability issues. it's a bolt in swap.

>mitsu reliability
Older Mitsubishi's are extremely reliable, only the new ones are bad.
>t. Owned quite a few Mitsubishi's

I thought AYC in the IV-X was fine at stock power but above that it would be better to switch to mechanical diffs.

VII onwards has a much stronger AYC diff. for racing you might want a mechanical but AYC issues are overblown

Thanks, I never knew that. All the USDM Evos got stuck with no AYC until the X.

>snow and rain
>the only time the lanevo doesn't understeer

yeah Mitsubishi fucked the USDM. also you don't need heaps of power in a VI they are pretty light

>In that video too I noticed the test driver was using the same foot technique whether the car was rwd or awd
>"the test driver"

That's Keiichi Tsuchiya you dickhead and he knows how to drive a car.
>posts video of evos doing handbrakies and burnouts

But the Evo has AYC... it's not even really a fair comparison.

What are the advantages to AYC than a mechanical diff?

Tell me about it, ended up spending a mint to get a decent mechanical diff setup.

Never said he didn't know how to drive, only that he didn't change his driving technique per car type, perhaps to be fair in the review. All I'm saying is if you want an awd or even fwd to rotate, using left foot braking will accomplish that.

And yet he still got the GTR to drift.
And yet he still got the WRX to drift.

you do know that those two AWD systems are RWD bias right? evos work differently.

That's why they're shit.
That's pretty much my point bro..... understeer city.

except they don't understeer if you left foot brake.

The addition of AYC, which OP would have in an Evo VI would cause the car to behave more like a symmetrical AWD system. The Evo III will understeer without left food braking since it's a FWD biased AWD system rather than the RWD biased system in the GT-R's or symmetrical system in the Subaru.

How does that fit into a corner?
Do you brake with your left foot before the corner, then accelerate with your right on corner entry? Then how do you heel-toe downshift?

Do you enter the corner normally, then brake and accelerate mid corner? Because if you've already entered at a low enough speed to make the corner while understeering, you should be accelerating mid corner - not braking.

Show me an example of this miraculous left foot braking technique.

>Evo III
>Identical to DSM/Evo with transfer case
>FWD biased

no its mechanically locked 50/50

it'll understeer because its open diff/vlsd on either end

I thought all Evos are FWD biased superstreetonline.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/sstp-1302-understanding-all-wheel-drive-systems/

>Track
youtube.com/watch?v=tWvP_iexTUo

youtube.com/watch?v=XWPLL0ncXWA

>Rally
youtube.com/watch?v=bgg5WWfMWzM

Did you even watch those videos you posted? Do you even understand the nonsense you're repeating?
Both of those videos show standard trail braking - which they just so happen to be doing with their left foot, but you can just as easily do with your right.

Keiichi tried trail braking with aggressive weight shift, the car still understeered because it has bad weight distribution. Learn before you speak.

Yeah all year, mostly winter where I'm from. I imported it through b-pro. It's reliable, and I never do maintenance, other than oil once a year.

Yes I have and n matter what you want to call it doesn't change the fact that it does work. The use of modulation between the brake and gas can be used as a rudder. It becomes more easily applied and controlled by splitting the control between your left and right feet rather than having your right foot do all the work.

Is it as easy to rotate as a rwd or rwd biased car, no, but it's not impossible, which has been my point. OP also sounds like they want something winter drive-able, which fwd biased systems are generally easier to control.

Horses for courses

>VW R32

I thought these things were hard to find.

>The addition of AYC, which OP would have in an Evo VI would cause the car to behave more like a symmetrical AWD system
AYC on a VI only does left right split on the rear. Has nothing to do with front rear.

>no its mechanically locked 50/50
No it's an open diff that can do up to 50% to the rear. It's front biased.

>it'll understeer because its open diff/vlsd on either end
A lot of VI came with helical fronts instead of opens.

They are.

Its a rally car, duh