/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Why are you so angry? Y'all fuckers dont give me advice other than telling me to stop buying 4 doors.

The paint is a newer (but kinda shitty) coat, and i did replace majority of the seals. Held up through a huricane just fine.

Hmm, it could leaking because the soap made the water softer, you known. Breaking the surface tension. Have you though of oiling those sealants with some silicone?

I said you were becoming kit kat. You’re only mildly retarded but you show signs of further retardation occurring

>people tell you to stop being retarded
>decide to lash out
wew

You guys think its possible to throw enough money at safely turboing a corvair flat 6 to 300hp?

Ill admit to my retardation, i just want to know what ive done.

>stop buying 4 doors.
Why would you ever do that? Coupes are for niggers desu senpai.

>trying to justify your preference for 4 doors by tearing down 2 door owners
Senpai, you enjoy 4 doors just let people who prefer 2 doors enjoy them

anything is possible with enough money

Lmao, it hardly handles the stock turbo without severe detonation.

literally been asking for opinions on cams for months now, y'all are faggots and posers.

Try not asking obscenely general questions, retard

Got her back. Baby is running better than ever.

Turns out the tach was reading so high cause it was on 4cyl mode

haha damn stupid shop why didn't they just install it right the first time, amirite? hehe stupid cuck monkey wrenchers

>t. Brainlet

You installed that yourself.
Didn’t you.
Checking in with B.
Also, speaking of seals and shit, how hard is it to get the window seals done?
Would drilling a drainage hole in the bottom help to keep it rust free?

this what a faggoted retard lol

Use SEM color coat, it's the best product

I'm giving you this advice: never again take your car to a shop unless the specific tech has actually worked on classics before. That's really all i have to say.

They overheat in less then a minute on factory turbos.
You need to get small valve, closed chamber heads (110 hp)
Big valve heads will overheat, turbo heads have open chambers.
You won't make 300 hp, you have the wrong engine for that. Might as well throw a marine 4.3 in it if you want a turbo engine. If you ignore me and still plan to do it you might as well swap to fuel injection to save yourself.

corvairefi.com/

I've seen your questions, you're not providing enough information. We need shit like transmission type, vehicle weight, intended application, chamber volumes etc.

I just installed a new weather strip, but it doesn't seal up against my window. I think i installed it correctly but im not 100% sure.

Should I adjust my window instead? Any advice if I do?

...

...

My mechannic can't tune a venturi carb, and has had my car for a bloody month to replace a proportioning valve.

Who can mentor me on the ways of old here?

Anyone, what the problem be?

Car had a Holley 1946 on it. It would run great until it got hot, then it would stumble and hesitate.

I rebuilt it with a kit, it would idle around great bu you only got about 30% throttle, anything more than that and it would stumble and pop.

Then I bought a reman 1946, it runs great except it hesitates with any change in throttle position.

So then I rebuilt a junkyard Carter YF and replaced all of the vacuum hoses. Runs terrible with the EGR hooked up. Has detonation above 7* regardless of richer/leaner.

I've learned carters can develop leaks at the base plate but I haven't been able to touch it since it's at a shop.

As for the brakes it started off with a leaking wheel cylinder. Couldn't get the brakes to bleed after that, so my father opted to replace the master cyl. Now the brakes drag. Over the next few weeks my dad fucking destroys the fittings on the proportioning valve and reflares about a foot off of the lines before taking the valve apart and finding that the valve was actually stuck from the leaking wheel cylinder.

So I buy a universal proportioning valve and since I'm tired of pissing with it and watching someone else piss with it I hand it off to a mechanic that we've brought shit too for the past 10 years, usually does a good job.

adjust your windows, my best advice is don't get mad. It's a bitch to do. Just google how to do it since I can't remember what each bolt does. There's several bolts you have to tighten and loosen in different spots to adjust them.

Don't buy remanufactured carbs.
The YF is not that good, The one you bought could have been produced way before EGR was even a thing and so it may never work right.
What engine is it? You might want to consider a TBI setup. Late 70's and early 80's archaic emissions devices made these cars run like shit anyway.

>As for the brakes it started off with a leaking wheel cylinder. Couldn't get the brakes to bleed after that, so my father opted to replace the master cyl. Now the brakes drag. Over the next few weeks my dad fucking destroys the fittings on the proportioning valve and reflares about a foot off of the lines before taking the valve apart and finding that the valve was actually stuck from the leaking wheel cylinder.

So I buy a universal proportioning valve and since I'm tired of pissing with it and watching someone else piss with it I hand it off to a mechanic that we've brought shit too for the past 10 years, usually does a good job.

Fuck brakes honestly. Unless it's my motorcycle just because they are easy.
Is it 4 wheel drums?

>Don't get mad
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

I was afraid of that, but thanks

3.3l, only fits 1bbl without too much modification. Can go with chevy 2.8 TBI system if I make the modifications to mount a 2bbl but I kind of just want it to run. Smog gear is off, but I wanted to keep EGR for the mpg's.

Front are disks rear are drums no ABS.

If it isn't fixed this weekend I'll go buy a flare tool and put new lines in the car. It's the only part of the system that hasn't been replaced yet now. He's apparently having so much trouble because the rear of the proportioning valve isn't the same size as the rear line. It took an entire month and me venturing over there for him to tell me. Couldn't get an adapter or just ask me for a different fucking valve really?

>Smog gear is off, but I wanted to keep EGR for the mpg's.
Unfortunately this can also cause shitty running, depending on the carb. It's GM right? The timing might have been factory set to run specifically with all the junk on there, another thing is EGR can cause detonation if the engine is worn out.

Sounds like your dude isn't about the brake life.

It's a Ford. Carb is off of an '81 F-100, same year as the car.

My mechanic wanted to put the vacuum advance on the venturi port but everyone on the sloppy page, including the spare engine I picked up(1980), has vacuum advance straight off manifold vacuum. I haven't tried that engine's carb, and I haven't ran a compression check yet. It's possible it has compression problems, it almost has a dead miss at cold idle that goes away when it warms up. Doesn't burn any oil and doesn't have any blowby through the oil cap though.

Also need to figure out if the 1981 C4 uses Type F or Dex II because I want to get rid of the 40 year old fluid.

The only other time he screwed something up was when we had a diesel Suburban 2500 and the ABS didn't work. It wasn't producing any codes and he couldn't figure it out so he didn't charge us for the labor. But even that was 2 and a half weeks.

Yours aern't too off but mine were really bad. It's basically trial and error. No matter what I still have a gap at the lower right hand corner of the window.

Consider checking the valve lash, that's late enough that it shouldn't be a problem but it can never hurt.

It's got hydraulic lifters, I didn't think you were supposed to service them?

But it does have a flat tappet cam and a flat cam lobe is entirely possible.

You don't need to adjust hydro lifters once they're correctly set.

>correctly set

how do I test this/ set them?

Adjust the rocker arm lock nut until you feel a slight resistance, then another 1/2 turn to create preload. Then tighten the set screw, if there is one. Don't go all the way down and then add 1/2 turn because then you're opening your valves.

yo

Comfy

tfw not comfy yet

Turns out the carb is beyond fucked, guy I got the carb from caused a hairline crack in the body. Now I need suggestions for a carb. Bone stock 460 in a 1977 Ford F150.

>Now I need suggestions for a carb
Quadrajet

Okay guys.
No answers on the doors.
I guess you all don’t know or it’s so damn obvious and i’n A fucking moron.

Anyways, another question; to Monte Carlo bar or not to Monte Carlo bar?

It’s only the 170 (for now) but I feel like with how fun it is to (hypothetically, of course) slam around a corner, it might be worth getting.

Anything else I can do to fix up the handling?

Also, what are the cheapest upgrades I can get that actually do shit?
I know a set of summer tires is best, but what then?

Whats wrong with the doors? I also feel for that falcon, since it sounds like you want to turn it into racer.

I don't know, just google and see if they make door seals for your car. It's a crap shoot. They are molded to a specific shape for the right fit, you can't just use a generic product to my knowledge. Steele Rubber usually makes them if no one else does. Otherwise you may have to call them and request they make a specialty part, I suspect that would be expensive if they'd even do it.

best thing i ever did was toss my beat up carb for a brand new one. whatever carb you end up getting, just shell out for a brand new one instead of a used one

>just shell out for a brand new one instead of a used one
Don't buy Chinese carbs.

Not really.
I just occasionally take it where it can go a little faster than usual.

The second the torino is running the thing can go back to a life of peace and quiet, just going back and forth to work and the grocery store.

I should also point out that I don’t want anything permanent, and a good chunk of it is due to its inability to stay at highway speed.

Even with the rear dif at 2.78:1 it’s having trouble with it, and I can’t find anything lower.
Damn.

I still have a tiny gap but its much better than before. The passenger side is fucking perfect, weirdly enough.

Buy one of those dank throttle body injection kits... A bit pricier, but worth it.

Long shot but I bought a trailer last week. The guy was a retired mechanic, he's been out of work for a couple years due to back problems, reminded me of some guys here. Does anyone want to buy his truck? It's a 66 F250 with a rebuilt 352, a bit ratty but only 85k on the odo. He wants 5k but he'll take 2500 and a mechanic's toolbox.

Located in Waco ofc

Yeah, I'm not buying second hand carbs anymore.

I would, but it's a bit too much for me at this point.

I got it back today. Checked for vacuum leaks, re-set timing, and washed it.

It's at 15* now and I couldn't hear a pin drop. I'm too pissed to do anything else right now.

$340 to replace a valve and it sat under a tree the entire time. Fucking nicks and scratches in the paint all over the car, fucking dent where someone hit it in the rear passenger door, spent 2 hours washing off the tree sap and my car looks like shit.

I think I might know what your problem is.
It sounds almost exactly like the one I had not too long ago.
What kind of distributor do you have?

If thats your car you're gonna have to import shit from Australia. They're XR-XT falcons here.

People make coilovers for them. import a barra turbo motor while you're at it and turn it into a rocket.

ive been mulling over selling this car
in order to move

i mean i obviously dont want to yeah but i
might have to, itd make things a little more affordable but like

i dont even have a good idea where a good starting asking price would be

what you think /ccg/
give me some '''''ideas''''

You'll regret it. Save a few more months and then move.

What yea exact falcon, I have 64 and have a fair amount of part mags laying around, plus I consider my self fairly aware to places that sell parts for the birds. Mind you most of what I know is for the 2nd gen falcons, not the 3rd gen.

Not only that but I just got done searching around for weather strip for my car, since where no longer dying of drought. and have brand new interior except for the head liner installed and no weather strip at the moment.

Im pretty sure thats a 65

Save, don't settle

Drop a haystack on it, advertise it as a barn find.

25k, ran when parked, you know what you got, no tire kickers, etc.

I don’t exactly want to destroy the poor thing.

I had considered swapping it to a 289, but considering it would cost more for the engine than I payed for the car itself.

That and I don’t think i’m up to that right now, what with the lack of tools and all.
Importing an engine from the underbongs...that shit’s beyond me.
It’s a ‘66 actually; first year of the third gen.

does anyone know if e30's heat shield (underbody cover thing) would have asbestos in it?
I was prodding it removing washers to look underneath, ripped it in one part then looked at and and noticed has cotton looking stuff in the heatshield

can't find anything online about it

dearbornclassics.com/1966 ford falcon.html?cat=2682&ea_a=&ea_bc=&ea_c=weatherstripping.html&ea_path=-ymm%3d%271966%7eFORD%7eFALCON%27

Here you go, I get most of my stuff from dearborn, and no disappointments so far, also ask for a mag it has all the parts you could ever need in it, right down to right screws for your scuff plates.

It's possible. I know exactly the piece you're talking about because I removed years ago to repair some rust damage it was hiding. Just wear a respirator when dealing with anything made of any type of glass fiber.

Thank you so much falconbro.

I have a question for everyone here.
At what point do I become a faggoy akin to a fudd, modifying a car that was otherwise tasteful and sexy to something butchered?
What defines “that asshole” who fucks shit up vs someone who wrenches in their cars because they like to?

Finally all my fucking parts and little tertiary shit that popped up like bolts and metal lines are all arrived and accounted for. Got 4 days off work next week to:
> put in new TCI streetfighter transmission, 3000 stall torque converter and secondary oil cooler
>put in new hedman shorty headers with AIR Injection lines, EFE valve and heat riser to air cleaner
>new cold range shorty spark plugs
>new intake manifold and 142 Supercharger
>new power steering gear box
>new accel performance ignition control module to go with the performance coil
>air filter, oil and filter, fuel filter, and remove all my hoses and put on some sweet braided metal covers to look cool
>re connect parking brakes
>set idle air/fuel mixture and timing for boosted engine

I'm still pretty much a noob at cars so Idk if I'll get it all done in time

Forgot
>re install deleted AIR system and map all the lines to appropriate spots
>unblock Egr and map to appropriate spots
>uninstall my edelbrock aircleaner, pcv, and breather tube and put back stock air cleaner, pcv and breather set up
>measure for cowl hood/cut through a cheapo sheet metal hood
>basically returning to 100 smog compliant with exhaust and forced induction upgrades (already got new heads, pistons, cam and full roller rockers)

Need some emergency help.

Took the 67 out, went to a car show, ran some errands, but now it wont start and im stranded at best buy.

>engine started, and died, even though i just drove it 30-1hr before. Now it turns over but wont start.

>not out of gas cause i filled it earlier, and there is gas in the filter.
>tried pouring some gas down the carb cause i didnt smell/see any, but no luck.

Im thinking its flooded, and i spent the better part of an hour trying to start it with no luck.

Should i let it dry out for an hour, over night, or did i foul the plugs?

I noticed that unless i let it sit for a few hours, it takes a few turns to fire up, otherwise its instant.

So flooded or is something else fucked?

I just had the timing done and wires replaced, and the plugs look pretty new from what i can see.

Got spark?

I know the feeling.
>took my impala out to a show, then to the mall after.
>park way out there, but of course some faggot is parked next to me when i get back
>nice fresh scratch with their paint to match
>i slammed my 50 year old door into the beat up kia

They probably wont notice due to how shitty the car was, but i felt better.

Ill give you $50. I know what you got.

But seriously, dont sell it. If you have to, not to some boomer who will let it rot.

>some boomer
my ultimate fear
that if id end up selling it, someone would just garage and let it rot

god noooo
car is itching to be driven

I dont have any tools to pull the plug and check, but im assuming so.
-good battery
-fresh wires
-i think fresh plugs
-was driving just fine 1 or so hours ago.

Anyway to check without pulling a plug?

Ignition coil? Do u have an aftermarket one? I read reviews about people having this happen to them with racing coils just burning out

Can’t you arc it from the cable itself?

The little covers can be pulled back so you at least know you have some electricity.

Does it turn over at least?
And is it 100% of the way in park?
Try sticking it in neutral and rolling it to a different parking spot.

Just a regular one that i know of.

Man i hope its just flooded... just got the thing back

You should at least have enough tools to change the plugs in the trunk of an old car at all times. You can just try to jump the spark from the connector on the wire to something grounded. If there are any that are long enough you can pull a wire and snake it under the hood opening to a wiper or something else metal and grounded and watch for a spark when you crank it. Otherwise you'll need to figure out a line of sight so you can watch while you crank. The reason I ask is because a coil or condenser going bad can cause a no start when hot.

Ill try that once my fiance gets off work (luckily im stranded just a few hundred yards from her job). So just roll the rubber back and place it next to the engine?

I rolled it to another spot, and i know its in park (though ive started it in reverse before)

Right, faglord. Not like I had one or anything. It just needs a wastegate.

So if it is flooded, and i let it dry out, what should i do to try starting it? Online says to hold the gas to the floor and just hold the key, but im assuming the for EFI engines?

-Don't press the gas pedal down quickly because accelerator pump
-Crank with foot off the pedal and when it starts to catch gently press a little to rev it up
If it's truly flooded it'll need the plugs pulled. You may also wind up with gasoline in the oil.

Great. All this time i had been trying to pump it cause thats what ive had to do in the past.

Yeah you've flooded the shit out of it by now if it wouldn't start and you kept pumping the pedal.

Ahhhhhh, the prophecy is complete. I proudly christen you Kit Kat 2.0: Electric Boogaloo