Floor it so that you can merge onto the freeway

A. google that shit.
B. your thermostat is rusted through.
Fix this by getting a new thermostat (10$). Be smart and buy appropriate gaskets (5$). Be extra smart and buy new housing bolts as they tend to rust easily (2$).
Also: you either know you don't have to change your coolant or you need to change your coolant. Not expensive and necessary no matter what.
When the thermostat is old it can start to leak, this causes the thermostat to always be (partially) open. (the leak is within the housing, so you don't loose coolant, its just always pumping through the engine+radiator).

in your case, if you are sure the thermostat is working properly (!), check the tempsensor.
Also: how are the mpgs? if high, car is running rich. caused by choke. If the choke is controlled by ecu this is caused by malfunctioning tempsensor. if it's independently self actuated, your car might actually be running cold. re-check thermostat.

>choke
>subaru

Last time I checked, there were no Subaru brat owners on this board

>Have truck lifted with body lift.
>wheel wells are long gone
>engine straight exposed (like i can change my spark plugs witout opening the hood)
>operating temp never reaches 190 because of glorious air+water cooling

>using meme-arrows this hard.
what are you even trying to say?!
that subaru's don't have a choke?
that only brat (wankel=brat?) engines have a choke?
that they don't have any mechanism to enrich the fuel when the engine is cold?

...

>(wankel=brat?)
What the fuck does this mean

>mfw my own car red pills me

I'm even more confused by the follow up post than the original.

Someone send help.

I think this post: is pretty clear.
The user who posted used too much slang and meme-names to make his question/statement clearly.
This user clearly doesn't understand any of it and places a lot of question marks. Unless explains what he means it's just clutter in the thread.

>Memes
>Slang
No he doesn't at all
Brat is the model name
It's the last subaru with a manual choke I think is what he was saying
Also is not clear at all
Why is he taking about wankels?

It took three times to bust my e36, so be careful. I'm on #2 with my e38 now

my buddy with an e82 has coolant problems too, i thought they would have fixed that by now...

>Have oil cooled bike
>Literally never had oil temp warning

can't say i know that feel car cucks

...

>temp gauge is just a bit above where it should be for operating temp

>temp guage has intermittent fault
>sometimes reads normally
>sometimes reads nothing
>sometimes reads max hot
>sometimes flails wildly all over the place

>his car is water cooled

...

I have my e46 in the shop right now replacing the radiator fan because it exploded, because the engine is sitting too low, because the motor mounts are going

Hey retards!
Cars will run COOL when it's COOL outside.
Sorry your sports car with an engine smaller than your cock can't make more heat than it loses to the extent you'd like it to.
That's doesn't mean you have a thermostat problem. That means that it's COOL outside. Plus when it's COOL outside you tend to run your heater, which makes your engine run even COOLER. Running your heat on fresh intake (what you should do in the cold) is going to be like bypassing the thermostat all the time, making your engine run COOL. Running COOL isn't a problem, closed loop isn't that important. Running hot, now that's a problem. If your temp gauge reads slightly COOL in the COOL weather, that's fucking normal you fat fucking retarded spergs.

>mfw

>floor it just for fun
>hear what sounds like someone shaking a can of rocks in the engine bay

dude please post a pic of your truck

I drove my 2000 accord for months in the red line. It would overheat after 10 minutes of driving and I drive 40 minutes to work everyday. Nothing bad ever happened.

Operating as intended.

Change your thermostat

>car doesn't even have a tempature guage

>mfw this happens almost daily exactly 6 minutes after a cold start drive and then it immediately goes back down to normal operating temp and stays there until the next cold start

wat fucken do man? theres a bit of coolant dripping every so often at the end of my hoses but the hoses are in great condition. im about to replace the tstat and maybe even the water pump

>pin it merging onto the freeway
>look down at dashboard
>see this
>yfw

...

>cold weather
>turn heat on high
>temp starts dropping
>turn heat down to low
>temp goes back to normal

suffering

...

>The only way I can drive my car without it going into the red is by having the heat on full blast at 85 degrees in order to draw heat away from the engine
also
>Driving back home on the freeway
>Look at dashboard
>Temp gauge in the red
>mfw
>Pull over and add more coolant to radiator even though I added some the day before
>Gauge stays slightly below the middle during the entire drive back

>top off coolant once every 3 or 4 weeks with maybe a tenth of a quart
>oil isn't milky so I don't think it's a gasket
really makes me think. Can't identify a leak anywhere in the hoses either

this is exactly how i drove my old 86 ford taurus. the radiator actually just exploded and leaked all of its contents when i parked after a 5 hour drive. i had to have the heater on full blast in the midsummer heat...

>start car
>takes 15km to reach operating temperature
>floor it
>temperature drops

That's because it takes about 15-30s for a thermostat to open or open.

>1.6 miat
>Temp creeps up above 5krpm
>Temp goes back to normal at cruise rpm
>Wat
>Pull over and inspectigate
>Res bone dry
>Coolant plug at rear of block is cracked and sprays coolant when it revs, creates enough vacuum at cruise to draw from reservoir

For the want of a $2 rubber cap, my head almost fried.

>speedometer says i'm going so fast that i've transcended space-time and am technically moving at 0mph

even on a 40c day my car never goes over half on the temp gauge.

Various chevrolet cars now have active grille features. Depending on temperature, some of the grille opening is closed off or opened electronically to help it reach and then maintain operating temperature.

Why not have it open always?
literally what would be the harm in it always being cooler?
i always want my enigne to run cooler, ill spend thousands getting that to happen.

because metals expand and they are designed to be ran at 200 degrees.

i suppose it is just weird coming from an an engine i am constantly trying to keep under 100C

the main reason is that the fuel-oxygen mixture atomizes and burns best at high temperatures. If your engine is running cold, it won't be able to ignite as effectively and the engine will stall. To compensate, a computer for a cold engine will inject far more fuel than normal (running rich) to combust effectively.

The result of this (besides horrible fuel economy) is a ton of unburnt fuel being dumped into your exhaust and igniting inside of your catalytic converter, quickly ruining it.

Also, engine oil that doesn't get up to temperature (above 180F) will get contaminated with a ton of moisture and quickly turn to sludge.

Car engines need to be hot. But not too hot. 250 degrees or more and engine oil starts to break down and coolant boils and pops your headgasket.

It's all about balance. 190-215 is just peachy.

>Why not have it open always?
If your engine is cold and its winter, then reducing the amount of cold air flow lets the engine get up to operating temperature sooner.

Oh well i don't live in some sub zero shithole.
winter for me means 10-20c and some thunder storms.

any time your engine is spending not at operating temperature is time your engine is destroying itself. A cold engine means cold oil, which is thicker and can't coat the cylinder walls and other components effectively. So your cylinder seals rattle and scrape up and down and basically make your motor as loose as your mom. Plus, you're getting 10 less mpg or so when cold.
At highway speeds, a car engine without a thermostat will basically never get up to temperature, unless it's above 80F or you're climbing a hill. Plus, once you start heading down the hill again, the engine will cool down below 180 and all this shit starts over. The ECU will start dumping fuel, your egr will go back into open loop, even your transmission may change its shift pattern if it is under a certain temperature.

KEEP YOUR ENGINE AT SPEC OPERATING TEMPS

what about i live in a hot climate don't you understand?
i hardly if ever actually have to warm up my engine because it is generally over 30C before i start the engine.

temp gauges in most modern cars don't even show proper temperature, they're computer controlled to stay in middle position when the temp is anywhere within safe limits, and go straight to "max hot" if the threshold is reached.

because even in a hot climate it takes longer to warm up your engine without a thermostat than with one. 30c does not equal 95c.

Why do you think they say 'don't stomp on your engine when you first start it'? They're talking about all those wear issues that happen before the motor's up to temp. Without a thermostat, that wear time goes from 3 minutes to 15 minutes or maybe never if it's cold out. Do you just not want to drive your car?

Plus, any highway driving with an open radiator can easily pull your engine temp down again. Radiators like airflow, and you have a ton of that at 100kph. The temperature differential from 95 to 30 is plenty to suck all the heat out of an engine that's just turning over in top gear at an easy 2k rpm.

>KEEP YOUR ENGINE AT SPEC OPERATING TEMPS

Except if it's a modern German engine that is designed to run too hot to save fuel. Replacing the stock 110C thermostat with a 95C one increases the longevity significantly.

You sound like you have read all the books without driving a car in your life.

110 is a little hot yes
anything above 90 is fine, assuming your ecu doesn't complain. But swapping a slightly cooler thermostat is way different from removing it altogether and just saying "well I want my engine to break and my oil to turn to sludge and I want to replace my catalytic converter in 5k miles and I want to get a third less fuel efficiency"

ENGINES OVER THE RED DEGREES AND MY HEART BEATS AS FAST AS I CAN BREATH
BUT I DONT WANNA CLAIM ANY STOP, THEY WANNA SAY IM QUITTING (QUITTING) (QUITTING)
SPEEDY SPEED BOY

If you are changing the thermostat on a Chrysler 4.7 you would be really smart to set aside an extra day for taking out the radiator so you can get a drill to drill out the lower bolt because I guarantee you will turn the head clean off with your little finger

As a triangle, this is very accurate

>Drive rotary car
No running cool problems here

That's exactly what I saying here.
He also notated that the car would be running rich, that of which make so damn sense if the car was overheating.

>rev to scare dumb pedestrian that steps out infront of me
>throttle sticks
>have to keep looking angry so people think it's me and not the car
>mfw

If your coolant gets thick and brown it's burning and you need a new radiator

If not it's either leaking very slowly or you have a crack in your head or a blown gasket and you suck at identifying coolant in your oil

Veeky Forumstism win

>throttle gets stuck when closed sometimes
>trying to leave from a light
>slipping the clutch
>continually adding pressure to the gas till it breaks loose
>ends up doing a Fwd wagon burn out with a "I brake for trains" sticker on the back

>pic related, I just took this picture

>Heater core
>freeze/casting plugs
>maybe you just suck

>creates enough vacuum at cruise to draw from reservoir
Your cooling system pulls vacuum?

yield to pedestrians, dipshit

>Cars will run COOL when it's COOL outside.
>mfw my car's thermostat is higher in cold weather
Stfu soyboy

Run crushed pepper through your rad it will plug up leaks

i do when they're at a crossing BUT NOT IF THEY JUST FUCKING START WALKING ACROSS IGNORING THE TRAFFIC LIKE A GOD DAMN STREET-SHITTER

I'M IN A FIRST WORLD COUNTRY BUT THIS SHIT STILL HAPPENS

>Be me, back in highschool
>First car, no nothing about cars
>Have old vacuum/electric assisted carb
>Cold starts it'll rev to 3k and hold it there
>It holds it there for 60 seconds
>Following instructions of tapping the gas pedal to reduce engine speed actually increases engine speed momentarily
>Eventually turns into 3k at every start cold or hot
>If it's hot it'll only hold it at 3k for 10 seconds or so
>Every time after filling up it looks like I'm just revving on the engine like a mad man
>Every time I started the car in the winter I wanted to hide
>Sometimes it'd act up and idle even higher, making it difficult to slide into first

Fuck I loved that reliable heap. Unfortunately it woul draw so much unwanted attention it was terrible.

I swear M50/52/54 head gaskets are impossible to blow. I've seen people melt intakes without hurting the head gasket.

BMWs will always have cooling problems until they stop using plastic entirely, which will never happen.

>Driving an automatic E46

coolant leak probably let an air bubble into your system

>manual BMW's
>existing

I have literally only seen TWO (2) BMW's with manual transmission, and both were in a junkyard.

>automatic BMWs

What a sad world we live in

Sticky thermostat, replace.

mfw