/QTDDTT/

What do car bras do? My latest shitbox supposedly came with one from the factory (aw11), and it looks ok with it on.

supports it's breasts

Prevents the headlights from sagging bro.

collect dirt and water
ruin paint and metal

they're meant to be temporary, to keep the bugs off your nose on a road trip, if you leave it on all the time they trap dust and royally fuck the paint.

also it's the #1 indicator of a car owned by someone who doesn't care.

was it cold or hot? if it was cold, it was overfilled
if it was hot i'd still be worried
crack the drain bolt so that it weeps slowly and take like a quart or liter out and recheck level
>those two holes are for flooids
>at cold top hole should be empty
>at warm top hole should be full
this means nothing unless you're telling us you didn't wipe first then dip
>then you're a dip
protects low cars like mr2s from rock chip and bug damage

What's the problem with buying from buy-here-pay-here places? Are they really as sketchy or hard to work with as I've heard?
I want to buy a car at one and minimize how hard I get jewed.

>borderline or actual illegal lending practices
>poorly maintained vehicles that have probably been wrecked
>just waiting for you to default so they can repossess and sell your ride to someone else
private party is much better
>I want to get jewed and it will be surprise buttsecks no matter what i do
FTFY

sweet
Thanks, I'll be having a body / paint shop repaint it soon so I guess I'll keep it on for now

>loaning
What if I'm paying cash?

I like to do mountain roads around me at night, but I have an 87rx7 and it's headlights are dim af, hard to see as well as I really should. Would it really be so bad if I switched to some kind of lightbars and gave it that sleepy eyed look everyone calls rice? Is it really rice if it performs a very valid function related to racing?

If you still dont want to go private party atleast buy from a fucking mainstream dealership honda chevy toyota etc

every buy here pay lot is full of shitboxes ready to explode whereas most specific car dealerships inspect and make sure whatever they sell you wont explode immediately.

plus if you are buying a car from them that isnt from the manufacture they normally sell you can git a gud deal

My buddies got this 2002 Honda Civic he just picked up

210,000 miles
Manual
Decent interior, everything still works
needs new shocks and a windshield kind of cracked.

I'm offering $800 to take it off his hands, what do you guys think?

>pic related

Sounds like a gr8 shitbox user

I need a car to learn stick on, seemed like the best choice.

Restore your headlight lenses with a kit like 3m makes and maybe replace the bulbs with brighter ones if possible.
Restoring your lenses can make a big difference in brightness.

My jeep is overheating after I filled it with coolant and when it was running it was bubbling out of where I pour the coolant into eventually smoke came out it what could be wrong with it?

It's not that I don't want to buy private, I just wanted to know if there was any case or chance for not getting fucked at one of those places if ever they had a seemingly nice car I wanted.
On one hand, I don't trust a lot of CL sellers to have kept their cars nice, but I trust stealerships even less.

2005 Chevy Cavalier manual coupe.
Put in a new battery, forgot to plug in a memory saver.
Now I'm stuck with the fucking anti-theft shit killing all my gauges. I only use it to commute so it's whatever but it's pissing me off, and all i'm finding online is "le give it back tyrone xdd"
and "take it to a dealer."
Help.

>Bubbling around coolant cap
Did you put it on correctly, and put in the correct amount?

>2001 Tundra
>steering fluid dissapearing
>no apparent leaks
>no weird noises from the steering pump
>no weird steering
>truck drives normally
...wat do

Do you mean it's bubbling with the cap on or with it off?

Just a dumb europoor but why do 'muricans love SUVs so much? I think SUVs are just impractical if you're not travelling a lot.

Nobody knows, not even the people who buy them. It's the same with the wannabe hicks who buy F450s to use as a commuter vehicle.
If they had any sense, they'd buy a van, but SUVs imply that you're an 'active' family.

It hurts to know this is true. I test drove a 2005, 216xxx mile subaru and it ran and shifted just fine, got to operating temp and everything worked alright, no real issues I could see besides being 12 years old and being rough around the edges. The rust in the engine bay baffled me though.

In the end I had to let it go, no point buying from these guys, they almost always sell the junkyard special. Was a good price, too.

>higher off the ground
>safer feel
>can fit 3 kids and maybe their friends if you have a 7 seater
>useful when moving shit
Why do yurofags all drive such little underpowered shitboxes? How do you tow Our boat or transport your dirt bike?

put more fluid in it with UV dye

Vans provide all of those benefits.

yeah nothing says luxury like a fuckin soccer(football) mom minivan

What do I do if I want an american ute though?

I'll take a plush ass van over a half-truck-half-van abortion any day.

>doesn't like abortions
Calm down, mr conservatard

If your van is capable of towing a mid sized boat or fitting a pallet in the back, you've just defeated your own argument against ute/truck and SUV ownership.

Looking at mid 90s tacomas. V6 or 4 banger? Pros/cons?

>plush ass van
name one, go ahead i'll wait

get the v6, dont think about it just do it.

22re has enough power to drive freeway. But if you use it for towing or work, v6 is way to go. My co workers v6 eats brake pad really fast, not sure if that is thing or he just have ducked up taco

Vice grips and elbow grease wont get my VC joints out.

They have a 5lb, and 2lb slide hammer at Harbor Freight,
which one should I get, and why?

neither

What do you suggest as an alternative?

5lb
maybe even 10 lb

The 5lb one is almost $50, is that worth it?
What if I go to Home Depot, buy some thread, some piping, some nuts, and make a slide hammer?
Not sure about the threading and sizing of the vice grips they have at Home Depot.

If these are sealed beam bulbs, which they probably are, get some Hella H4 conversions so you can use modern bulbs.

you can find some tutorials on youtube about making your own
i've never needed to
have you tried tapping on the axle part closest to the trans/diff while pulling out? sometimes that will be enough to unstick it

>have you tried tapping on the axle part closest to the trans/diff while pulling out? sometimes that will be enough to unstick it
I haven't tried that. But I've tried putting a pry bar behind it and hitting that with a hammer, but I can only manage to get a few centimeters of clearance for the pry bar to move in the right direction, the space is so tight it's not even funny.
I'll give that a shot when I get another chance.

allright well good luck man

what ever happened to that tripfag who had the Toyota truck with teeth on its grill

Thoughts on the Outback sedan? Considering getting one.

its ugly as fuck

wagon is life
sedan will give you the gay

Trying to figure out how much I'd be able to get for my TT as a trade in or for cash at a dealership.
It's got quite a list of problems which is why I'm having no luck selling it privately.
Will dealerships even take cars with obvious issues?

yeah most dealerships will work with you anyways, so long as the engine, trans and body are in good shape

Body is okay, besides some light fade on the roof.
Engine is okay. Trans depends on the day, sometimes it likes to play up.

First noticeable issues are the Air Bag light being constantly on. (Did have this checked at an Audi dealer and they wanted 5k aud to fix it)
And the fuel gauge is fucked. Either showing totally full or totally empty.

Okay. I'll look around some more. It's good to have options.

How much does a front drivers seat weigh?
I know that's really, really vague, I'm just looking for a ballpark estimate, so I'll narrow it down.
I've been looking into making a car seat into an office chair, and I was looking into some new yorker/dynasty, civic, or other seats alike.
I figure most chair hardware will easily support my and the chair's weight, but I'd still like to know for reference.
I'm specifically looking into seats without any sort of motor or electronics in them, so I know that'd cut down the weight.

I had some big leather seats out of an old Holden statesmen and I'm guessing they would have weight 20-30kgs

How can i find gay guys in the car community? The gay guys i find on places like tinder are all insufferable feminine faggots who cant even accomplish an oil change!. I would love i guy who i can talk to while tearing down an engine

How to negotiate price with private seller?

Found a car I want and there's only one in my state being sold. He's asking 11.5k. How can I get it down to 10k or less?

How does one go about getting a sun roof installed in a car that doesn't have a sun roof??

What's a good daily driver but that's also fun to drive? I don't want any of that electronic bullshit, so less it has the better it is.

Would I be completely idiotic to buy an engine swapped car as my first car? It's an H22 from a 94' Prelude in a 98 Accord coupe.
Currently talking to the seller about him getting it certified.
What do I do Veeky Forums?

Highly suggest you don't, but if you do send it to a professional.

Tons of wiring and frame support go through the roof, just randomly cutting a hole in is NOT a good idea.

Late 90s cars have little to no electronics and were very light thanks to zero safety. They're all amazingly fun to drive and easy to repair, highly recommend a Japanese hatchback from that era.

Do not, engine swaps are rarely clean and there's always shit to do, if they guy is selling it he's likely cutting his losses.

Thanks for the advice. Yeah I figured it was a no-go. Breaks my heart because it's basically two of my favorite cars in one package but I'll wait and find something more reasonable

>Also thinking about changing the timing belt and its components as well to get that out of the way.
Have fun tearing the whole front off.

>that sack

>Tons of wiring and frame support go through the roof, just randomly cutting a hole in is NOT a good idea.

To be fair, pretty much every car that offered a sunroof as a factory option has the roof already set up for it, even if it's not installed.
So the frame and possibly the wiring is already there, the only "dirty" job being the actual cutting, which obviously has to be done well in order to avoid rust in the future and provide a good fit for the insulation around the sunroof itself.

A sunroof install is pretty much a bolt-on job unless the car was never meant to be bought with a sunroof to begin with. It's just that it takes a lot of hours because you have to clear all the ceiling, somewhat protect the cockpit from the sparks produced when cutting, clean the cut as best as you can and continuously check if the sunroof fits well and the seals hold.

The real pain in the ass is when you try to install a sunroof on a car that never had it as an option, so you actually have to fabricate the frame and the wiring harness and you have to work with universal parts that may or may not be good.

All in all it's not the easiest of the jobs to do in your own garage, but if you are lucky and the car has already everything needed for the sunroof minus the hole, then it's just a matter of having a lot of spare time and being good at cutting sheet metal, because the rest is just as straightforward as it could be.

The universal check engine light symbol is modeled after which engine?

It's better than the way they mounted it in the fucking jettas

I'm dreading that job

If I have a misfiring cylinder and I want to pass an emissions test, can I unplug the bad spark plug and drive it there? Is voluntarily deactivating a cylinder bad in the long run?

This but shoot some rattle clearcoat with UV-protectant on them, otherwise it'll just haze up again.

The 3m kit has a 3000grit trizac wheel that's great for sanding the clear as well.

You say it like it's difficult.
I've recently done a timing job on an old Passat, the whole fucking front end comes out almost in one piece, because it was designed to be removed for engine maintenance so they made it easy to work with.
The bumper, the radiators, all the framing and the wiring harnesses stay together as a single big piece, you only have to drain the water, disconnect a few hoses, undo a bunch of connectors and then you just pull the whole thing out.

After that, it's the easiest timing job of your life because you can literally take a chair, sit in front of the engine and take your sweet ass time to do everything as cleanly as possible since you have so much room now.

Really, timing jobs on a lot of transverse engines are 100x worse than longitudinal engines where you can remove the front end off in like 20 minutes. I don't understand why people seem so scared to remove a fucking bumper + radiators.

Swap the coil pack with another good, working coil pack from another cyclinder in your engine.

If the cylinder that's misfiring swaps with the coil pack moving, voila, you have a bad coil pack.

Go to a junkyard, get a good one, gg.

Unless you have some other heinous issue. How old are your spark plugs?

Car: 93 Golf 1.6
Problem: worst mpg's, not so cool vibrations at idle when the engine is hot
Question: should I notice idle change after disconnecting coolant temp sensor on hot engine? I did that and absolutely nothing changed

Fair, at least everything's readily accessible with the front clip and rad removed.

Have you tried disconnecting the MAF yet?

Also, air filter

any of you going to be at gatornationals in march?

I drive an old diesel Ford Focus 1.8 TDDi which is reliable, very economical in the summer (while I can see the engine suffer with the cold we're having now) and relatively easy to work on. Toyota and many other are having the ""ecodays"": you bring your old diesel they give you 5000€ discount on a new car.
I'm quite interested in the Toyota Yaris Hybrid but can someone tell me how it is? Is it reliable can I service it without going to the dealer? Is it worth it?

Didn't mess with that yet, but if maf is dirty shouldn't it register less air than is actually coming through therefore giving it leaner mixture (which is as I understand better for mgs than rich mixture caused by dead coolant temp sensor)? Air filter is new and so is fuel filter.

When cap is off and when I leave it on for a bit (10 min) temp light comes on and yes its full

My transmission slightly lurches forward while driving slow and turning. I notice it after starting to turn from a stop sign, or leaving a parking lot.

Honda Element AWD.
It happens occasionally, and only when it's really cold. I bought it last year right as it was warming up happened maybe once or twice. Never happened in warm weather. Now that it's below freezing it's happening more often

Transmission is otherwise smooth and quiet and runs great. Fluid isn't that old and it's not burnt

I'm not against trucks or utes, I'm against SUVs. They have the fuel economy of a truck without being able to haul fuckin' anything.

I was just going to say at 141k to do timing. Neither job is difficult, and if you have small hands, considerably easier. If you bounce over to any of the Audi forums, they have a a tool sharing thread to make the timing belt easier.

If it bubbles when it's cold, you have air getting in. It bubbles when hot because the water can't pressurise without the cap and it boils. If you're having issues with cooling after a coolant change, you more than likely didn't bleed the system and you have an air pocket somewhere and the smoke was from a hot part in the system that wasn't being cooled. You better hope it wasnt important.
Does the engine bay have that weird, overheated smell now?

>high off the ground so they appear to be safer and are easier to get in and out off if you have back problems
>don't have that minivan styling
Personally, I wouldn't have one. It makes me sad that retarded normalfags choose rav4s and xtrails over large sedans and stationwagons.

does anyone know the height and diameter of 13b corner seals? not clearances or wear limits, but the actual new in package size. don't know how I can't find something like this on the internet.

Help me make a hard decision boys because it hurts. I have to sell one of my cars because I can only have one at my new apartment.

>old beater truck
>super reliable, 3 years ownership with zero issues
>slow, loud and ugly according to others but it's qt to me
>doubt I can get more than $500 for it

>car
>weeb car somewhat faster and great looking but something keeps me driving the old beater truck, this one has some transmission or ujoint/driveshaft issues I need to put money into fixing, barely drive it because of this
>can probably get $1,500-2000 for it

Stories of parting with your first car to make me cheer up?

How do I find out what other cars had the same specific parts as mine?

I want to know what cars to look at in a junkyard for parts for various cars.

Is there a website or something?

Car-specific forums and sometimes Wikipedia.

Not all of them are bad, where I live they get most their cars from brand name manufacturers dealers trade-in's they are not going to resell.

Some guys will have connections and buy direct from the sales manager often there's an agreement that the used dealer will take a couple of cars regardless of minor issues but at a very favorable price. Usually those guys will get first chance at their maybe cleaner cars that have some sort of reason it may not be suitable for a franchise dealer

(I.E. good car with higher mileage, recondition costs would be too high, multiple small claims on accident history, etc) Remember that trade-in's are just cars like yours and mine, some are taken care of and would be suitable for another owner while others are total trash

Some dealers send their cars to auction for maximum return or if it's a car that is such a POS not even the wholesale buyers will take it. Dealers who buy from the auction usually end up overpaying which reflects in either overpricing the car or lack of reconditioning. They often end up with sketchy cars, some buy ex-salvage cars from a body shop on a commercial level also.

Almost any car can end up anywhere, good dealers can get bad cars. Bad dealers can sometimes get good cars. Have your guard up at any dealership, brand name or not.

My project car got towed.
It was parked on the street in my neighborhood 100ft from my house.
To fuck with whoever got it towed, I was thinking of buying some $300 shitboxes, and if one gets towed, I'd go and park another one there.
If I don't get them registered in my name, what problems might I run into?
Seattle Washington, United States of America.

Apart from specific forums, you can simply ask an OEM part store.
Give them your VIN, ask then to look up the part number of the part you want (if your don't already know the number), then ask them to simply search the part number without any VIN filter and voilá, you have the list of all the cars that had that specific part.

This is by far the most accurate and quick way to get the information you want