/mg/ Miata General

Took my NA out for the first time in about 6 weeks to try to get some fall pictures. Pretty bummed that they all came out lousy.

srsly tho

Let's say I only had one test drive to know if I just absolutely need a miat to solve my life, which one do I test drive?

>tfw just got back from a boring week long trip
>kissed my car when I returned to it in the airport car park

That sucks dude, what phone did you use
But my god what have you done to that car

Nexus 5x. I ruined it.

Anyone that knows the front fender of this one?
I swear i haven't understeered and fuked my fender

why not both?

I cant afford an ND!

>Puts RPF1s on his wife's car
Naw dawg, I see right through that.

>RPF1
dems wheels looks really nice

Sold my 2012er fellas. Miss it already.

Thinking of replacing with a boxster and then gutting it to make it spec.

Anyone have an experience? How hard is it for a noob whos only done minor work.

Looking to gut the interior, put in a short throw, traqdash, start button panel kill switch thing, new suspension and brakes etc.

Someone else can do the cage.

Should I just pay somoene? Or skip all together?

When will they sell the ND in other colors other than the lame shit they have now?

I want my British Racing Green

RÉEEEEEDEEEEEEEEDEEDWEEEEEEEE

Imagine you're a degenerate.

How would you put a car seat on a Miata?
I have to figure this riddle or get rid of the car, or warranty that baby.

feelsbadman
its a roadster, its supposed to be exiting. and they pick the most run of the mill colours for it
Including 3 DIFFERENT KINDS OF WHITE

when will some NDanon do this

I wish there was a Green + Tan ND.

I like this Miata, It’s a all around better Miata.

what seat covers are those?
also aren't there seat covers that have leather surround but alcantara interior?

not with that electric steering lol

Does anyone here know about diagnosing Miata problems

I have a 2001 Maiata NB with the vvt 1.8 engine and for some reason it is fluctuating at idle and has no power. When you floor the throttle theres no acceleration. And its basically zero power after 4k rpm but the engine still revs. Does not appear to be clutch related because the clutch kills the car instantly.

I'm looking to buy a NA, but I got some questions for you fags first
>yuropoor
>in college, barely any income, but it's fine since I get money from commie government anyway. Have some savings so 3k purchase and initial repairs are what I expect.
There's a us market import near my hometown. It looks like it has little rust and has the 115hp 1.6. No scratches or rice and seems like the current owner is somewhat rich.
I know the us market had reinforced doors, are there any other differences with the europe model?
Also how is it on fuel consumption, pretty acceptable for a 1.6L? Insurance and road tax costs less for me than a 1.4 civic. The NA near me costs 2k, a civic is usually 1k so it seems pretty affordable for a student here.
Are there any less visible spots where rust is likely to form?
What parts should I replace, repair or buy after getting it?
What are the options for a hardtop, is getting it second hand (from a junkyard or so) a good idea?

Do the current models have a body kit? I love the proportions but the front end sucks to me on the new ones.

The better Miata is the 124 Abarth

Take the fuse out lol. It is a pain in the ass

The 1.6 gets somewhat decent mileage. Mine has consistently gotten 27-30 mpg, not sure what that equates to in L/km or whatever.

As far as rust goes, the real problem spots are on the rockers right in front of and behind the doors. The trouble is that they tend to rust from the inside out, so by the time the rust is apparent its already a big issue.

There's really not anything that you should need to replace right away, they dont have too many problem parts honestly. Just give the car a good look-over.

I dont know about yooroland, but in the US hardtops are hard to come by and will cost 1000-1200 USD. It would be highly unlikely that you could find one in a junkyard.

The NA6 and NA8 use the same subframes, transmissions, drive shafts, and diffs right? (VLSD and torsen aside)

Does anyone have a line on NB2 LS tan leather seat cover replacements that don’t suck?

My drivers seat is worn and torn

This is very bad, you need to take off your oil pan and polish your bug ends asap

sleep tight miats

F

My EuNoS rOaDStEr

did he died

giv gren nd

Me

>tfw miat is sidelined because needs new waterpump

I’m probably going to replace timing belt and all those associated gaskets.

Those aren't covers, some NBs come with those seats

wat

look at those BRIGHT EYES
Did you use the chrisfix restoration video?

Perhaps the PO did, I’ve only owned this for 6 ish months

Oh its green, looks black in the other pic
tan soft top?

Yep, green on tan

budget ten hours and $200 to do the procedure end to end, replacing lots of things in there

Yeah my 18 year old neighbor did the head gasket on his Miata and Integra almost all by himself. It's definitely doable

You need to be completely prepared and understand what you're doing before. Get service manuals or alldata printouts or something. There are guides out there too

>Subframes
>Transmissions
yeah

>driveshafts
>diffs
>axles
nope they're different.

But hypothetically you could unbolt the subframes and drivetrain from an NA8 and bolt them to an NA6 right?

Yes

You don't have to swap subframes though the 1.8 drivetrain will bolt on

Well I'm just figuring it would be easiest and fastest to get an otherwise parts tier NA8 with a good drivetrain and subframes, unbolt everything, lift up the body on a 2-post, do the same thing to my high mileage but otherwise in decent shape NA6 and just wheel the drivetrains to the other Miata and bolt them in.

how do you identify different NAs

The B6ZE and BP are big indications.

FUCK FUCK FUCK
THE RIGHT SOFT TOP LATCH ON MY MIAT IS STUCK
THE BUTTON THING IS SORT OF HALF IN AND THE LATCH WON'T MOVE
WHAT THE FUCK DO I DO I NEED TO GET THE TOP DOWN TOMORROW ON MY DATE

HELP ME LOSE MY VIRGINITY YOU NIGGERS

>just swapped an lsd in
>mfw everytime I mash the gas in a corner

spray wd-40 all over that shit, put a rag under it to catch the runoff though
also try to heat it up with a heat gun

The quickest way to do that is to keep the subframe in the car and just replace the diff, axles, and driveshaft. The rear subframe is not that quick to remove and doesnt make a whole lot of sense

Got my Miata on a lift for the first time today, and she's completely clean underneath. Super happy I don't have to do any major rust repair, just need a new front fender

Yes, it's absolutely possible, but if you have to ask, you probably aren't even close to prepared to do it yourself. If you really want to go for it, have someone who knows what they're doing guide you through the process

Okay thanks. Most people here are offering hardtops with their miatas for €500 so I guess that's a good deal. Haven't looked at them separately yet though.

knowww dat feel

I'm getting a loud rattle from the engine bay when I depress the clutch slowly at first gear speeds. Any ideas before I take it to the shop?

IT DIDN'T WORK
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

>need to replace front O2 sensor on recently bought '96
>wd40 and breaker bar can't get it off
>Shop with blowtorches can't get it off
Am I going to need a new manifold/header over this shit?
Should I just kill myself?

>tfw you hear a popping noise every time you take a decent turn or every time you leave a steep driveway

I'm really tired of this car

>he bought an old shitbox and doesn't like to repair old shitboxes
you did it to yourself 2bh

Went to look at this today
autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201710280737467

>100k miles
>belt and water pump done with invoice
>has rust but was undersealed a few years ago
>new idle control valve
>nice interior
>2200 bongbux

They even had it Dyno'd in 2014 and it was producing 106bhp (146 from new) Is that a good/bad loss for a 2005 car with 100k miles?

Are the ND manual transmission issues a meme or are they real?

>146bhp from new
no lmao, that is engine horsepower
106 is little to no loss from factory

Can you give me a quick rundown on dyno/engine hp
am retard

Dynos that you drive onto and get a number will give you horsepower from the wheel. Car manufacturers give you horsepower from the engine because the number is bigger and bigger looks better. The reason engine horsepower (usually referred to as "horsepower at the crank") is a bigger number than horsepower at the rear because energy is lost in the transmission and differential as heat, making the horsepower at the wheels a lower number. Driveline loss is the reason why AWD cars with an equivalent engine as a RWD car will always be slower, because the AWD has more differentials and axles n shit.

Oooh
Shit thanks for the good reply

Crank/engine HP is just an engine running on an engine dyno, no drivetrain, under ideal conditions. The 146 is an ideal perfect number. (if it's an 01-05, mazda actually retracted that optimistic number, down to 138 IIRC). The VVT motors basically make the same peak hp as the 99-00 BP4W, but with a better torque curve.

Dyno/wheel HP is actual power put to the ground. Through the clutch, trans, driveshaft, diff, axles, and to the wheels. There is a loss of energy to spin/turn all of these parts, which is why crank/bhp is ALWAYS higher than WHP. WHP is what most people who dyno tune usually list. BHP is for car makers to advertise, and bench racing. 106 is not a bad WHP number. FWIW, the BEST factory fresh 94-97 1.8s will put out about 110whp on an honest dyno. The 99-00 cars about 115whp same for the 01+ cars.

I really appreciate your encyclopedic posts
106 is fine then, if the car drives well I might finally cop my very own mx5 (miatababy)

Strangely I hate silver on all cars but I love it on the NB

>the reason why AWD cars with an equivalent engine as a RWD car will always be slower, because the AWD has more differentials and axles n shit.
it's not quite that clear cut, AWD means you aren't nearly as traction limited

>it's not quite that clear cut, AWD means you aren't nearly as traction limited
I should've said "when grip is not the limiting factor"

...

...

Would an aluminum block 3800 be the perfect engine for the Miata?

youtube.com/watch?v=AzNlGGawfJM

youtube.com/watch?v=YwW1BR5zViA

i was under the impression those aren't compact, aren't that reliable, don't sound good, don't make much power, and have very little aftermarket

nice
lights look a little cloudy tho

>aren't compact
wrong, they're actually very compact with no overhead cams
>aren't that reliable
wrong, they're pretty much unbreakable
>don't sound good
tru
>don't make much power
the supercharged 3800s can make good power but yeah, n/a they're pretty shit
>have very little aftermarket
nah they have a pretty big following with lots of aftermarket parts

>not doing a honda j-series swap

they have a kit / adapter

They make 205hp bone stock in a 4th gen F-Body with 230lb ft of torque . That'd be plenty for a 2300lb Miata, and there's plenty of room to go up from there.

The only real downside is that they have an iron block. Otherwise they fit better than the LS, are lighter due to the T5 instead of the heavy T56, and don't require you to move the radiator or trim the transmission tunnel.

I believe you can get aluminum blocks, but they're not really cheap. Then again, nothing about an engine swap is.

>not using t5 with ls v8

Looks nice, what trubo?

What turbo setup will net the fastest response? Not looking for much power past 200hp. 94 megasquirted NA here

best way to make my miat look absolutely aesthetics?

denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/1997-mazda-miata/6391368039.html

denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/1992-mazda-miata/6359432538.html

boulder.craigslist.org/cto/d/1993-mazda-miata-mx-5/6386565997.html

thoughts?

Because everything other than the lame shit they have now isn't even remotely popular. They should have a paint to sample option, but that might be way too expensive for most people who want a Miata.

Planning on buying a new ND soon. Should I wait for next year or order one in December? I have a Mazda 3 '12 that I want to sell first before I do.

Trackspeed engineering kit for the EFR 6258. Best turbo you can buy for the miata.

Dat tight rear end.