/CCG/ - Classic Car General

I'm not sure I want to trust the judgement of someone named CoastieCuck.

Why not just find some cheap 14"-15" wheels that look half decent on the car? That way you might get tires that aren't total shit.

That's heresy.

Nah, you're just fucking stupid. It's easy as shit to find a set of 14-15" alloys or even steelies that look good on nearly any old car.

If God wanted the car to have 14" or 15" wheels, he would have installed them at the factory.

camskill.co.uk/m73b0s361p0/Car_Tyres_-_MPV_Tyres_-_People_Carrier_Tyres_-_13_inch_R13_inch_-_175_80_13_175_80R13_R13_inch_-_175_13_175R13
Toyo NanoEnergy 3 are especially good.

>MUH ORIGINAL
Go back to masturbating to numbers matching muscle cars, boomer

camskill.co.uk/m73b0s359p0/Car_Tyres_-_MPV_Tyres_-_People_Carrier_Tyres_-_13_inch_R13_inch_-_155_80_13_155_80R13_R13_inch_-_155_13_155R13
More choice but skinny

CoastieCuck pls go

what classic car do you think would be dramatically improved by an electric car conversion?
like, something that looked good and handled really well but had awful drivetrain issues and was generally irredeemable because of that

pic maybe related?

Pinto.

problem is it's an all around shit car, and an electric motor wouldn't improve it much

Ford Fairlane

Aside from its instantaneous conversion to Islam during a rear end collision and its absolutely anemic 86hp engine, what's wrong with it?

rather ugly styling, really poor engineering overall, forgettable suspension setup, ????interior????

>ugly styling
It looks fantastic. Are you drunk?

>something that looked good and handled really well but had awful drivetrain issues and was generally irredeemable because of that
>classic
>handled really well but had drivetrain issues
Most classics handle like shit but have a bulletproof drivetrain... and the only thing heavier than iron block iron head engines is an amount of batteries that give you a reasonable amount of range.

Seriously, batteries fucking suck for specific energy. Gasoline has like 45MJ/kg and the best lithium batteries on the market are under 1MJ/kg. Basically in the current state of technology making nearly any car into an EV makes it worse.

mustang 2

the old jaguar XJ12 coupes would be great for this

‘66 falcon guy again.
Back from LKQ and other shit.

Fuck.
Nothing.

>expecting to find stuff in a chain junkyard for cars older than 1980

What were you looking for?

I miss my rape van

>rape van
>windows
Pick one.

Checking the points and distributer tomorrow. From the plugs that i have pulled, theyre older but still good. Might just replace em just to be sure.

You asked the board. Besides, youre already thinking about doing it, you just want reassurance. I used trailer tires on my 53 ford, but that thing topped at 55mph.

Its just a trip name, seemed funny

I think he's more worried cause you're known on the board for being dumb idk

Alright, since im the local retard. Tell which part you think could be causing the problem. So far one of you, and my local orielly guy thinks its the top left thing on the towel.

Points dont look bad.

Why are you talking about points when you have an electronic HEI distributor?

The thing on the towel is the ignition control module. It is a fairly common failure point.

Did you confirm that there is actually no spark when the engine isn't starting?

that's electronic ignition my dude.... It's probably not your issue. Here's how to check for spark quickly, be careful. On the dizzy, remove the boot that comes from the coil. Find a bit metal tipped screwdriver with a wooden/plastic handle. Wedge the screwdriver up the boot, place it on the block so the metal part is about half an inch from anything conductive. Jump the starter solenoid or have someone else turn the key. If you see electricity sparking across the screwdriver arm, you have spark.

But I don't think spark is your problem if you don't have problems running. Since it's cold where you are, do you have an automatic choke? Maybe rig up a manual choke. If you can see gas in the fuel filter, two pumps, choke on 3/4, and hold the key on start. A tachometer helps to see if you need more or less choke while warming up. As aforementioned with your flooding issue, if you get too much gas in the cylinders you need to hold down the throttle all the way to get extra air, to compensate. Use your head and realize that this is the opposite effect of the choke, act accordingly

It looks almost new. If the car didn't have HEI from the factory it looks like the PO put it there. I wouldn't replace anything yet

Ill be honest, 1st time ive had to work on anything with the electronics on a classic, so im kind of just going with what i know.

As of last night, i wasnt able to check for spark. But from what ive been told, the control modual can go in and out which seems to be the most likely cause. after all that, idk what it could be.

I dont think its the weather. Choke open or close its not wanting to start. Ive started it with easy is 40 degrees and 80 degrees. It just seems to be random.

And correct me if im wrong, but the choke should look like this at normal operations, right?

Ease in*

You definitely need the choke on when you're cold starting in cold weather, it should be the first thing you do. Even in warm weather it helps. Hot starts are a different story. Choke should be open once the engine warms up if that's what you mean

There's only so many things that will keep you from starting consistently. Improper choke operation, spark and fuel are basically it. You can see fuel through the filter, check spark the way I said. If it's spark your distributor looks OK so it could be a bad connection somewhere. There was a loose plug going into my distributor on my Lincoln that would disconnect at the slightest vibration, causing misfire for months

Ive never needed to use choke on any of my cars. But now that you mention it, there was a loose wire by the distributer... hmm...

Ill replace that modual and then check for spark AGAIN. I hope its not a loose wire somewhere, cause my engine bay is full of them for past shit.

Anything.
Literally.
Anything.

You're kind of bad@cars if checking your distributor and plug wires wasn't one of the first things you did.

Well its all fairly new.

Too rich/too lean.

Son of a fuck. I replaced the hei distributer/condensor, along with the modulator. Still no spark. Im at a fucking loss and fucked my damn shoulder trying to get in and out of the engine bay.

Have you checked all the wiring and connections to make sure everything is good and there aren't any loose plugs?

No loose plugs and i cant find a single thing that doesnt have a wire in it

What brand is your coil?

Have you tried replacing the spark plugs?

Accle
Not yet, but im not even getting spark to the wires.

My last hope is replacing the entire distributer. But as it goes right now, i just want to roll the thing off a cliff and claim insurance.

Accel is pretty good. Is the distributor MSD or not?

Here's my recommendation, go find an old points distributor, replace the points and gap them correctly and run it for a while to see if the problem persists. If not, the problem is occuring in your HEI.

Just don't buy a reman. Junk

I know im going to be called an idiot and all, buuut...

Do i throw in the towel and take it to ANOTHER shop in hopes they find out what is causing this bs; or should i risk another $120 to buy a distributer, attempt to install it, and hope that works. If its not that, im completely out of ideas and have no idea where to start.

If it's not the distributor you can always just return it.

>Do i throw in the towel and take it to ANOTHER shop in hopes they find out what is causing this bs
That's what started this mess isn't it?

LS swap

laughing like a madman

The ignition coil has gone bad.

Happy thanksgiving...

There's only so many things it can be. Try them one by one. Even if it's $120, that is less than a shop will charge you. From one noob to another, is there a local mechanic you can become friendly with? My mechanic will often take a look at my car for me and charge me peanuts (it anything at all) if I do the work myself. Honestly, I've learned more in the last year to 6 months from him than I did in the 4 years prior just tinkering by myself.

post them pending repairs and costs

>24$ for cylinders
wew, typo there. Wish i didn't have to replace the damn drums tho. Shit gets a cheaper brake redo pricey.

Also RIP my trim. I need to replace that shit. its completly gone from the left side now

>instantaneous conversion to islam

Howdy gents

I can't count how many fucking times I've seen you on normiebook

>>Reposting from the muscle thread that continues to be dead.

Now I've got a conundrum. I've got a '67 GTO, recently rebuilt engine block, a great /dd/, but the paint has aged pretty poorly.

Its currently candy blue(I know, I know), but I never was a big fan of that. So I am thinking of a different color to have it repainted. I am thinking going classic regimental red since it has the black vinyl interior.

Thoughts?

Anything is better than that "generic boomer restomod paint job #235"

Burgundy would look pretty nice, have you looked at GM stock 67 GTO colors?

Tell your dad I like his cars

Ok
Will do friend

It's taken a while, but,coming along good.

That's an incredible looking car

I honestly dont know. Maybe the previous shop fucked something up, maybe its just coincidence something broke.

Ill look into it. What makes you think that?

So you have an HEI and it doesn't make spark?
Do you have a multimeter to test things with?

>I honestly dont know. Maybe the previous shop fucked something up, maybe its just coincidence something broke.
My point is it's time to stop taking it to shops. They've fucked up more than one of your cars. Time to be a man and make your car run yourself.

Its a brand new hei coil, it maybe the problem is elsewhere?

Im man enough to admit that i dont know what to do. Sadly i cant wait to fix it, time is not on my side.

It could be the magnetic trigger or the module then. Assuming it's not something weird.

i always loved nightwatch blue.

>Im man enough to admit that i dont know what to do.
Then start listening to us when we tell you exactly what to do.

since thread went over limit last time i asked,
Can i get a Holley 1850-5 650 CFM to work on a 1997 L29 454, at least as a placeholder until i can get a better set. Also, what are some things i should know about doing a dual quad setup, is it the basically the same as a single carb setup?

Maybe you should just swap in a diesel engine since you're clearly not capable of making the spark plugs work.

I replaced all the parts y'all have suggested, checked every wire, and still no spark. Now what?

It can work, but idk how well it will run with the egr fucking with things.
>dual carb
if they share the same plenum then it's not too hard. Make sure the throttle shafts are set equally at idle and that the linkage isn't all sloppy.

Have you even touched your distributor? Have you confirmed that the firing order is correct?
Have you checked checked anything on the carb like i suggested? Fuel could be leaking down your cylinders right now and you wouldn't even know it because you never looked.

I bet he has the wires going to the wrong plugs.

Could be wired up for an LS because the clown at the shop thought it's the same for a Small Block.

Carb is good, firing order is completely correct (was running smooth previously). Im just not getting any spark. I havent touched the actual distributer, but the rotor spins, the cap is new, and a new coil/and condensor were installed. New wires, spark plugs were all good.

HEIs use condensors?

How have you determined that you aren't getting spark

Screwdriver at the end of the plug

When I get my buddy to crank the engine the spark doesn’t hurt my penis

....Really?

Who are you?

I'm you, but better.

That’s a big implication senpai

Started putting together the 400 tonight.