I've always shifted at around 3k like a bitch...

I've always shifted at around 3k like a bitch, but on the way home just now i rowed through the gears shifting at 5k and holy shit i didnt realize 175hp could feel so fast

pic related was me just a min ago btw

Welcome to slow car fast buddy.
You're part of the club.

>never uses peak powerban

Is this the cause of all "lol not enough power" posting? Is this the reason so many retards on here hate on the BRZ?

I'm not gonna fuck my car up hooning like that, am I? it redlines at 6,500

idk about the shitposting, but its certainly why i thought my shit had lolnopower. i almost feel like ive been given a new car.

Depends on the mileage of your engine, I've got an Outback H6 that when floored actually tosses me back, but I'm not worried because It's super low mileage even for 2002.

I should also add, so long as you're not banging it all the time, putting good synthetic in and not pushing it from cold you'll generally be fine.

I drive an auto, so I usually just hold my foot to the floor until I'm at my desired speed. I'm very familiar with how slow 200whp is.
It's kind of fun when off roading because I can just hold my foot down and left foot break for turns. It will downshift for me, which sometimes results in some unexpected oversteer

I am almost convinced that it is. I've ridden with too many people that are afraid to rev an engine out. Even self proclaimed enthusiasts. The truth is that most cars have plenty of power to get in trouble with.

Its a Suboreyu, right? Your headgaskets will explode and pistons will become oval.

prolly
I learned to push a car to it's limit while owning 60hp twingo. After switching to 95hp mivec, sales reps are only people that can pass me on a freeway.

So who here is knowledgable?
I'd love to drive my car within the power band, I just don't know where that is.
Is there a set method drivers use to find out?

Typically it's about 2.5K - 5k.
Obviously it depends though.
'Power Band' is also a little subjective. Just go by feel, until you can feel the torque coming on. If you pay attention to your tachometer you'll notice your power will start dying off once you reach a certain amount of revs as well (typically around 6 or 7K)

pro tip
you should regularly redline your car to stop crap building up ontop of the pistons... and also cos its fun.

also op this is why Veeky Forums worships slow cars over fast cars, with slow cars you can rev them out and drive them like racecars even under the speed limit, fuck supercars and built chevy engines.

look for dyno graphs of you car online
did that with my focus and now i know where to rev to for steep hills, peak torque is only at 2500 even though the redline is 6000, diesels are weird

>it depends
So a car with a higher redline will have the power band in a higher bracket, so to speak?
Example:
Car #1 - redline 6500, power band 3,000-4,500
Car #2 - redline 8500, power band 5,000 - 7,000

Just saw this, thanks.

I want to tell you it's fine, but having owned several early 2000's Foresters they're really not meant to be beat on in that manner

I assume yours is non-turbo, the N/A EJ25 really doesn't love to rev - it's a 2.5l flat four and prefers lower revs, peak tq is below 3000 IIRC

If you've already done the obligatory head gaskets/reseal (not a meme with the EJ25), it won't be as much of a problem for the motor as the drivetrain

The AWD system is very fragile and hard high RPM shifts/ repeated hard cornering on tarmac (i.e. going hard on the touge every day) will fuck the transaxle in a matter of months if the car has anywhere above 100k miles on it - ask me how I know

>Mfw I know what this engine can do with an automatic but the car has been in limp mode since the Obd1—> Obd2 + manual conversion

3k rpm Rev limit feels bad in a manual

NO with a subaru. I have a newer bmw with an n52 engine and I regularly rev it to 8k every day though. it 100% depends on the engine

Often with high revving engines the powerband goes to the redline. In fact the only cars i know of that don't are large displacement engines like a chevy v8 etc

>large displacement engines like a chevy v8
Would a 3.6 V8 qualify?

Likely you have an EJ253 with that model year of Forester. It's a nice(r) N/A EJ subaru engine that *isn't* as prone to head gasket failure if it's a 2004+ model.

Realistically, don't rev it past 5k on the regular as there isn't enough oil pressure to properly lubricate the engine components at a higher RPM for sustained periods.

Old lady traded in 01' 5speed Forester. Check under car. Immaculate condition. See new Heads and timing set. Subaru oil filter. Best find ever for $1400

You should be fine. I took off-road often

I get blue balls every time I hoon.

>

WHAT THE FUCK. Is this what driving a Subaru is like? I've beaten the piss out of every car I've ever owned and my engines have always looked really clean internally and had good compression even close to 200k miles. I've never lost respect for a car brand so fast. Hearing you fucks waffle on whether or not it's okay to use the engine within its design spec has really made Subaru seem bitchy to me.

I have made a conscious effort to redline my 2015 Subaru BRZ every single time i drive it. (warmed up of course) I have also taken it to the track and drifting on multiple occasions.

every. single. time.

It's a 36k lease, but still an interesting experiment. Just hit 20k with no issues except a scuffed up rear bumper.

As a general rule of thumb, going to redline now and again should not do any appreciable harm to an engine that's warmed up and well-maintained. It might even help to knock a few carbon deposits loose.

In other words, don't do it from cold, and don't do it if it was due an oil change 6 months ago.

I redline my Evo X multiple times a day, every day. I'm at 100k miles with basic maintenance. The Subaru drivers I know redline their cars too, just not as much.

they're pretty much the BMW or Benz of the Japanese cars - super reliable but only if taken very good care of and addressing little (or big) bullshit issues that pop up - head gaskets being the big thing pre-2008

You can rev the lower displacement models and the performance models all fucking day without a problem, but the motor in the Forester of that period is decidedly "agricultural" and sounds like it's gonna explode past 5k, it was never meant to be a performance car in any way

There's really nothing wrong with Subaru especially if you're autistic about your maintenance, and even then it's pretty much only the older cars that have issues

I would buy a '99-'06 Forester over a 2010 Kia, Hyundai, Mitsu, Ford, Chrysler,etc. any day of the week

>they're pretty much the BMW or Benz of the Japanese cars

probably

thank you for your knowledge anons

>Power band ending at 5k
>Not being able to rev over 9000
>Not making good power all the way to rev limiter

>These are the people you browse the board with
Probably. They must learn the way of Scotty.
The engines' main issues are headgaskets. The trans' main issues are boyracers.

OP find a flat road and unleash all 175 screaming samurai until you're doing 112 over bumpy rural roads. You won't regret it.

>the powerband goes to the redline
Yeah, looks to be pretty close in this case.
Are the shift points going to be peak horse (just short of the redline) for each gear?

>Buy 56k 07' LGT 5 speed
>1 owner, immaculate outside, interior backseat was clearly used with a child seat on the passenger side
>Had to work hard to get the crayon off the door and clean the back of the passenger seat
>Go to do timing - it was been recently redone ahead of schedule - replaced with OEM Subaru parts anyways
>Replaced all fluids with Motul, sent old oils in for analysis
>Everything came back good, they recommended I wait longer on motor oil as they figured it to be around 1.5k miles
>Leak down test is good, replaced with NGK plugs
>All maintenance is caught up, start ripping on the car as I've done with all my previous shitboxes
>First turbo shitbox, this is actually a lot of fun
>Replaced headers, up pipe, and downpipe
>Had it tuned for street/DD downstate
>Went from 241hp to 265hp, little over what the car was at the factory
>Makes just enough noise under WOT it's enjoyable, definitely DD worthy
>Developed engine knock at 61k, #3 cylinder as everyone at nasioc predicated
>Rebuilt EJ255, treat it as a DD and that's it now
>Afraid to rev the car out as I don't want to have to work on it again
>It's the comfiest DD vehicle I have for winter
>Heated seats, auto climate control, not an 80's shitbox

Won't buy another Subaru. Auto friend of mine suspects the car overboosted due to winter air or the tune I received was garbage. Unfortunately it was one of the few times I wasn't data logging or paying attention to my phone running btssm. Was just out for a rip with the girl.

I'll stick to my 80's NA shitboxes for now. Was looking at a 1982 X11 Citation the other day just for a winter toy.

>interesting experiment
if an "interesting experiment" to you is driving your car as normal, than sure?