QTDDTOT - Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

Nissan Micra k11
I've rotated all the wheels and the bearings seem fine.
At least today I noticed that just blipping the throttle makes the scraping noise for about a second so it's definitely something connected to the engine, but I want to be sure what it is before spending even more money changing things that still had life in them.

Do you have a dragging caliper?

Replying to reply to my question regarding valve sealing in the last thread:
Yes, the valves have the same ring on them. I of course kept each valve paired with its seat that I lapped it into.

Between this and the mysterious oil consumption/accumulation issue (oil drops collecting on the exhaust manifold - I THINK it's fixed now with the new stem seals but can't be quite sure yet) I'm starting to think my new head might have cracks in it...

if it isn't the tire pressure it could be the steering wheel itself isn't straight, but if it is the brakes the easiest way to check is to go for a really gentle low speed drive for 10 minutes and see how warm/hot the right side brakes are compared to the left.

beyond that i'd say take it to a man and pay him to figure it out cuz fuck that trial and error shit if i ain't gettin paid

How hard of a job is it to fix the steering wheel if that's the case? I'm gonna check the brakes and fill the tires to spec today.

>be me
>notice coolant is low
>go to auto zone
>after work and class tired AF
>the guy tells me to get straight coolant and also tells me straight coolant is good for the car
>"ok its only an extra dollar"
>go home get a good nights sleep
>wake up and think about what he said
I know coolant is supposed to be mixed but what could happen to a car with straight coolant and what mix would be ideal for a car in a climate that rarely gets below freezing

when i had mine done it was on a rolling road in a garage, far easier than moving it, going for a drive, moving it again and so on

no water means almost no corrosion to worry about, but having water means more liquid surface area for heat transference (water molecules are smaller than coolant and therefore fit 'inbetween' those molecules very easily)

but to answer your question instead of rambling, straight coolant is fine, unless you get surface-of-the-sun summers, then you may want a normal mix for the reason i stated above

alright, so it just sounds a bit tedious. Not too worried then. Thanks user

You can check the gravity if you're that worried. Tools to do it are cheap.

When mixed properly, it lowers the freezing point lower than either coolant or water by itself.

TL;DR Unless there's nothing but coolant (no water) in the system, you're likely very fine.

Can anyone recognize the model this car stereo?
I know its a long shot I just hope someone recognizes the loud look of the dash.
Its 100% pre 2004 model.

Cool. Thanks for the graph

yes it will fit the same rim, ive done the same and run 195 70 15 on my car instead of 205 65 15

lol my 1997 Subaru Sambar runs like 145 70 12

straight edge ruler, stand it up longways. run it lengthwise then widthwise across the head. bend down and look at it straight on. if you can see a gap between the ruler and the head, its warped and needs machining.

when i was a tech we basically sent out every head for machining and just checked the block for warpage

run the tire on a balancer and see if it wobbles, if so likely a split tire. or you can try rotating the front wheels to the rear and see if that fixes the pull, if so its a tire issue

if they think its the power steering pump, they should be removing the accessory belt and running the engine. if the noise is still there its obviously not the power steering pump

straight coolant will gel in colder weather and fuck up your waterpump etc. i live in north Canada where it gets -50c sometimes and run 60% coolant 40 water

Can anyone say/show how responsive GM/Ford 10r80 tranny is in manual mode?
Not talking about shift speed, but how it takes to either down or upshift once a comand is given.

A long tube 4-2-1 header is better than a shorty 4-1 right? I'd get a long tube 4-1, but it doesn't look like anybody makes them for my car.

I had to replace the socket on one of my turn signals. I have a green and white wire coming from the truck, but one black wire coming from the new socket. Did the vatozone guy sell me the wrong socket, or, do I crimp my green and white wire together in a butt connector and then splice it to my black wire coming off the new socket?

How s my timing belt looking?

And is this a pointof concern or not?
I bought the car a year ago and mjsplaced the work history and cannot remember when the belt is due.

What are the downsides of buying an import RHD car? Besides the RHD part that is.

It will be cheaper to replace it than to wait and see what will happen.

BMW is a pile of garbage in most cases, even with maintenance done. Is Mercedes Benz the same deal? Tons of problems even if you maintain it at a dealership? Was looking at a V6 SLK or the CLK55 AMG as a second car for fun and power, since you can get a high mileage one for cheap-ish nowadays. I know that if stuff actually breaks/needs to be replaced, it'll cost some serious money, but is fairly alright as long as it gets serviced regularly?

Alternatively, suggest me something fun and fairly fast for ~$7k USD that's a 2D RWD vehicle. I'm keeping an eye on C4 vettes with the LT1 and LS1 based Firebirds and Camaros, but not many in that price range where I am, and one C4 that is around rides poorly and guy claims there's rust underneath (that he supposedly covered with fiberglass). I'm not big into Porsche's styling, but won't be opposed to looking if you make a convincing argument.

Merc is way worse than bmw

Grow a mullet and go for it brother!

Only two questions:
1. Is there any reason to not fucking just drive myself off a cliff?
2. Are there any Tail of the Dragon/Blue Ridge Parkway meets planned this winter?

My retarded ass bumped my rear bumper into a pole and now there's a big chunk of paint, maybe 2 or 3 inches in diameter, knocked off it. I want to get some touch up paint but I heard that was only for small stuff like penny-sized chips.
Will touch up paint and primer be enough or do I really need to get the whole thing repainted?

Touch up is for scratches and shit. Post a pic of the chip so I can laugh

Not even on penny-sized chips. Touch up paint is basically only for scratches.

You would need body filler and lots of sanding, then SPRAY the paint on. If you have zero painting cars (or painting in general), you won't be happy with the results.

It's about 2 inches in diameter and the bumper itself didn't seem to get deformed in any way, it seems more like the paint just fell off.
I have no experience painting cars. Is this doable or should I just get it to a shop?

f

new used car
manual transmission
whats the cause when you have hard time going in to second or first gear?
it wont go in or you can feel like you are hitting some gears.

first thing first, I thought that when clutch is pressed I should be able to put any gear in there relatively easily, no? But it seems like I really need to get first speed/rpm in the correct level before I am allowed there

also might be something to do with cold weather now

sorry for stupid question

It's that bad, huh?

I have 4 winter tires that were used on a honda odyssey for one season. Don't have the van anymore. What should I throw the set up on craigslist for?

not amreican so cant tell but you might want to start by not being retarded

measure the depth of tire thread, but I guess when you dont use milimeters you are not naturally drawn to it and have like 5/19 of an inch or some bullshit

because who the fuck knows what your season was
it might be 3000 km or 60 000 km driven on those tires

also the make of the tires matter a lot, continental TS 860 will cost bit more than some maxxis

Just colour it in with a black marker until you can get the whole bumper redone. If it's newer car, you might be able to get away with just replacing the bumper with one off a front collision wreck. 10+ years old and it becomes difficult to match the paint tho.

>whats the cause when you have hard time going in to second or first gear?
Worn synrchos

You can start rev-matching and it will shift like butter even with worn syncrhos.

Would the flat color from a marker stand out horribly on the bumper, or could I put wax or something on top of it to spiff it up a little?

i thought i needed a new radiator cap but it turns out that wasn't the problem. it's spitting/steaming coolant out right next to the cap, can i get away with just welding over it?

Is taking a car to redline on occasion good for it?

It's going to look shit either way. It's just makes it a bit less noticeable than giant white patch. I'd you want it to look good, complete respray or replacement of the bumper are your only options.

No. You probably brought the wrong cap or the spout is fucked if it's boiling out around the cap.

Can someone explain to me how a phenolic intercooler works? From photos it looks like a small intercooler sandwiched between a supercharger outlet and the intake manifold. Am I correct in assuming that as air flows through it heat is drawn out from the air, into the intercooler (which is filled with coolant), and the passed through the radiator where the fluid is allowed to cool before recirculating back into the intercooler? Pic related.

>looks at $7000 BMWs and Mercedes and calls them trash

fugg, really?

>implying
Nah, I have friends with deep pockets who leased new BMWs and the amount of times they broke down while still doing maintenance scared me.

Ironically, both now drive Land Rover. Not really sure why they keep picking unreliable brands.

how the fuck do i decide what car to buy? there's just so many god damn options, i spend hours on end browsing craigslist and can't pick anything.

at first i wanted some kind of old mercedes, then a wagon, then an audi, and now i keep looking at old sportscars/porsches

im young/single and my budget is ~5k preferably, 8k max. yes i read the sticky. convince me to buckle down and get something

What's your situation? What do you plan on using the car for?
Are you either good with a wrench or have enough in the pocket to cover repairs?
Give us something to work with

I have no car, but I have $2k. I can also have another $2k by income tax.

Should I buy a beater now or wait and get something slightly less beaterish. Only downside to waiting is I have to ride my bike to work and it's fucking cold as fuck.

i walk to work so i only would only really use it for groceries/gym/random excursions, although i want something nice-ish, at least not a complete shitbox. not handy but willing to learn.

How to find a car that fits me? Im mainly into 80s and early 90s cars but I need a good daily since mine is going to die soon(350,000) miles. but I already have my one fun car so what's a good daily that isn't a shitty honda civic or prius?

>so what's a good daily that isn't a shitty honda civic or prius?
1990-95 Honda Accord.

I'd get a cheap sporty car to do fun toy car things with.
You could just buy a cheap 2k Civic, spend a few hundred on learning how to wrench for fun, doing some basic maintenance, maybe installing coilovers, and thrash it down the local touge until you get good; so, in case you crash, you didn't lose much, but gained knowledge, skill, and experience.

>what's a good daily
A fun car.
Turbo Honda Civic with coilovers, big wheels, big breaks, struts, sways, and a dedicated Eurobeat sound system.

Bite the bullet and endure for a nicer car. Trust me on this it is sooo worth it

I know but it suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucks

Bought new truck, what the fuck is supposed to go here

Will a 2014 manual ford focus se 2.0l be any good?

I'm not a Ford guy but I'm afraid that I'd like them.

I bought 5w20 but my oil cap says 5w30, should I bite the bullet and accept that I bought 5 qt of the wrong oil, try a return, or say fuck it and just use it? Will the engine die?

>doesnt google image search year make and model to see what it is
>posts on Veeky Forums

(you)

Will driving my 2012 Focus SE in Sport mode all the time damage anything? It doesn't appear to affect mileage, is noticeably more powerful and the ride quality is smoother than in drive. However, when I take my foot off the gas I can feel a "pulling" on the car, as if I'm breaking, but it roughly maintains its speed. I have a very rudimentary, if that, understanding of how transmissions work and glanced at some comments talking about how the DCT meme can get "stuck" in 5th gear. Is this what I'm experiencing? Should I stick to drive/only shifting to sport when I need more power?

Holy FUCK if that stamp is correct the last time that timing belt was replaced was in 2001.

60k miles, or 6 years. Timing Belt, Water Pump, Tensioner. Regardless of visual wear and tear.

Belt is showing visual signs of wear and tear. Don't drive that thing till you geter done.

Odds are it wont do anything over the course of the oil change but if it isnt terribly inconvenient to return it, just return it

I should replace my timing chain. It has 209k miles on it

CHAIN, or BELT?

Timing BELTS generally last 60-100 miles. Can vary engine by engine. Check maintenance schedule or what people recommend for the engine.

Timing CHAIN? Unless shits fucked, will likely last the life of the engine itself.

should be fine, ive done it in my vehicles in winter

where i worked we never put stickers when the belt was changed by us, just kept it in our computer

i was a mechanic for years, i saw only 2 vehicles have timing chain failure out of thousands. one was a 60s Ford van where it snapped in half, other was a Sunfire with like 450k km where it stretched and skipped teeth. i have 70s cars with the original chain no issues

The truck its on i swear is cursed. It wouldnt suprise me if that shit breaks

If it isn't broke don't fuck with it

>I bought 5w20 but my oil cap says 5w30,

Hell, a lot of manufacturers have been positing TSB's recommending 5w20 where they used to recommend 5w30. Why? Probably fuel economy. But if they're willing to recommend it, it probbaly wont fuck shit up.

>where i worked we never put stickers when the belt was changed by us, just kept it in our computer
That sucks, considering most timing belts come with a reminder sticker. Still, given the condition of the belt in that picture, that shit gotta get done.

you can get oil burning though on some older cars thats why its not recommended, my old shit that says 5w-30 on the cap fuck it i run 15w-40 to prevent oil burning

youre maybe feeling engine braking? all power mode does is tells the computer to shift at a higher RPM and fuck fuel mileage, all my automatics i leave in power mode

Cracked rim
Or it’s bent

Burning oil is a normal and intended. Excessive? Something is broken. Fix it.

I don't disagree, the retroactive recommendations that some manufacturers are pushing are kinda fucked, if you monitor your oil level and top up accordingly you're unlikely to cause damage.

How do i get sponsors for anything

>mcrae captcha

This chart just answered my longstanding question on why you never use straight coolant when heat transfer isn't an issue. Thanks!

Please respond

Sell it and buy something that gives you what you want?

ruf 911 i prefer the promodett inspired by wangan midnight blackbird

keeping it N/A, exhaust, intake, tune and don't expect 50hp. anything more is turbos with light boost, then eventually built internals. both of which costs money and time. given it's a civic the most fun you can have with your buck is probably going to be handling mods because it's so relatively light for a newer car.

1st Gen Audi A3 with 1.8l (non turbo) vs the various E36 models (non M3)?

Audi - Can be bought for 3.5k (AUD) with like, 150 000km
BMW - Can be bought for 5k with pretty fucken high amount of KMs

Audi seems like a safer buy but what would be a more fun car?
0-100km/h times dont bother me as much as handling feel does
manual ofcourse

I've got a VE SS as my 'fun' car that does that. This is a just a daily. I like everything else about the car, I just wish it had a bit more power, probably because I'm used to the VE.

Alright. Wouldn't want to throw a turbo on it. I'll look into what you listed. Thanks user.

Figured it was a universal thing on trucks. For the record I asked the toyota general (truck is a tacoma) and it's supposed to be some weak headlight filler that is prone to falling out.

Any krautfriend that can help me with a word supposedly used on autobahn where faster cars (porsche, M cars, AMG and the like i guess) have like, some upper hand by unwritten law over slower cars?

that tranlsates to like "overtake right/authority/ privilegie"

Cylinder 7 on my 05 f150 5.4L is misfiring. Can I swap the cylinder 7 coil pack to number two to see if the problem follows it to cylinder 2? And I would put the good coil pack from 2 into 7

Question regarding registration.

Say I’m going to school in Utah and I still have another states license from my home state and I don’t want to get a Utah license because I will have to take a test and also get a whole new CCW.

Would I need a Utah license to register a newly bought car there?

There are no differences between cars, what You mean is Simply the overtaking right. If you overtake on the left lane outside of cities the drivers in front of you are not allowed to overtake if you had to brake if they pulled out.
In Reality not even Trucks follow this Law, Making every Glorious 100+mph run dangerous and annoying as you frequently have to Break down to 60mph.
Thats Why so many Germans Drive gtis, m and fast Cars in General, Brause they have to accelerate up again frequently

nono, it's like a a word, a upper class status, a nobility so to say for like porsches and M cars. Long german word and i cant remember it

>if they think its the power steering pump, they should be removing the accessory belt and running the engine. if the noise is still there its obviously not the power steering pump
I'll try this. It's on the same belt as the water pump, but that shouldn't be a problem if it's just for a short test, no?

If I install a crankcase breather filter where my PCV system used to be, will the blowby oil just fuck up the filter?

Can I get a catch with an air filter like pic related instead and just block the exit port of the catch can?

I drive a 2011 Ford Fusion. 4 cylinder model as my daily driver. It uses "synthetic blend oil" from the factory. Would switching to full synthetic help preserve the longevity of the motor? Other than increased cost of oil and associated filter, is there any downside of going full synthetic? Would it hurt the car in any way? Would I use the same type of oil if I did go full synthetic? I.e. my car uses 5w-20. Would I also use 5w-20 full synthetic?

Just always seemed silly to me that I have a blend of conventional and synthetic in my car when pure synthetic exists.

The high beams on my truck aren't high beaming. Am I safe just grabbing a couple bulbs to pop in or should I check something before doing that? Like a fuse, or something?

Finna buy a vehicle and have been looking for something for the winter. Been looking at a couple jimmys and blazers. Also some jeeps, but i've read about jeeps having tons of issues. Unfortunately with a $2400 limit most jeeps i find have upwards of 200k miles if not more.
Any preferences among the 4x4s i've mentioned?
I'm open to AWD vehicles as well. Not hugely interested in a truck but snow is going to hit soon and i'm running out of time.