/CCG/ - Classic Car General

I have the opportunity to buy some Saleen wheels like this. I love how they fit and the look is OK. They'd be going on a grey 89 LX hatch. My question is, how the fuck did Saleen get them like this if the stock turbines with the SAME OFFSET fit way worse in the back?

This is literally going to be the first welding I've ever done I don't want to bet the car on it. I'll be getting some more practice on my truck's body Maybe next fall, if there's any further failure of the stabilizer bar bracket. That's basically all that part of the frame rail does, that and connects the bumper on the end.

And yes I know they're 1" wider but that doesn't fill inches of wheel gap in the back that the turbines have.

Buy some scrap steel squares and get practicing.

Those are the coolest 4 lug wheels I may have ever seen but it does look like there's some widening of the body going on maybe?

Saleen did ground effects, but the fenders are the same I believe. They'd be 1/2" further out than what I have. So what witchcraft is at work in the back? Like I'd love this fit but this is with 9" width in the back and the same offset.

I thought my shit was rusty

I did the CPP big brake kit, from summit. I was under the impression that it was C5 corvette stuff for some reason when I bought it. It's not. it's similar I suppose but the calipers are differant in front and the rear is calipers off of a '90ish Lincoln town (with parking brake) car and custom rotors I think. I wish it wasnt drilled rotors but what ev. I looked at doing C5 stuff but it would have cost about a thousand $ more.

>I thought my shit was rusty
That's the worst spot on the fox but the ram's body makes that look like a little psoriasis vs ebola and the ram's only half as old

Painted my ferd this weekend. Ridiculous amount of time on metal work, shit was rusty for a southern truck. Roof was totally rotten around windshield frame. Cut roof off donor cab and spliced two together. Also was a 2wd I converted to 4x4

Two 1500watt heaters aint doing shit in my 25x25 un-insulated garage. Tried out my old propane sunflower heater and it's shooting out flames like crazy. I found the inlet and needle valve area was packed full of what looked like mud, must be from some kind of insect. Took the whole thing to pieces and cleaned it out but the adjustment still doesn't work, it's always shooting flames no matter the setting and it wont shut off.

>pic related, it's what I'm gonna do to my firebird, maybe

Why the fuck would you do that, those rims are boomerbait trash. That's not even the right yellow for the car.
Also you played yourself of the disk brake conversion, hope you didn't pay too much for your meme rotors.

bump

Alright guys.
I decided to try and do some home-brewed carburetor tuning, just play it by ear and vibrations and shit.

I decided to start with the idle speed/vacuum pressure because I was satisfied with the choke and it’s setting.

I upped the idle speed a good bit, and it ran hot as fuck.
Then I cut it to the point where the engine was sputtering and almost died, slowly turning it until it juuuuust stopped the sputtering.
It used to die if I hit the gas too hard, from a stop sign for instance.

It doesn’t do that anymore, so whatever it did it solved at least one problem.
However.
I’d like to have some method of checking my work and I really don’t have cash to buy extra shit right now.
The car payments actually end soon and I WILL be buying tools afterwards.
But is there any guide to what sounds/vibrations mean what?

Tl;dr, “I wanna be a carburetor tuning pinball wizard, gib answer plox”

Sounds badass.

...

Ok /ccg/, im finishing the brakes soon (only cause i have the parts), and i really wont be working on it till Jan. What should be a higher priority; new shocks all aroud or new upper and lower joints for the front?

2 other questions.
1: its come to my attention my right brake light doesnt work (but tail light does), and its all a direct wiring to the left light. Thoughts at where i should start probing?

2: my power steering pump is very noisey. Like just sitting there, it almost drowns out the exhaust. Im gonna try to add fluid soon, but would i be crazy to just bipass it and go manual steering on this barge?

Drum brakes all around! 14" rims are best.
>Just the way grandpa bought it.

Hnnnnng

You don't need Foose-tier wheels to clear disks of reasonable sizes.

>Implying that's a bad thing
That disk conversation was just a waste of time and money, drums do the job just fine.
Putting nigger rims on it is just icing on the cake.
A decent disk set costs 800$+ put the money into buying a 400 block not stupid meme parts.

>new in 69
>grandpa
Is this what getting old feels like?

My Imperial still has 4-wheel drums on its original 15" wheels and single master cylinder. I'm constantly surprised by how effective the brakes are.

Fuck drums, ill get some disks and 15inch PMD rallye rims

The stock rims for Pontiacs of that era are fantastic (rally IIs are my favorite rims) As another user stated it would be a better investment to put the money in your engine (get a 400) before anything else.

>rims

I don't understand the problem.

"Rims" is a nigger term; "wheels" is the proper term in regards to anything tasteful.

I live in mid Michigan and everyone calls them rims....oh wait.....
Regardless I'm still calling them rims.

Posting 17" "nigger wheel"

...

...

>get a custom plate for the front of the car (thing was already screwed into the front bumper, I would have preferred it without it.)
>bumper is still cracked and it just draws more attention to it
aaaaaaaaa
Also, what would you call that cracked black piece? I've seen it called a bumperette, and I want to know so I can replace it while I'm saving up to get it repainted where the queer coat died.

Bumperette is the correct term

Do you know where I could find one? The third gen forum hasn't been much help, though I've just lurked/searched through. Just from looking it over I get the feeling it's something I could just pinch the sides of and pop in, do you know what I mean? I'm afraid I might just have to replace the whole bumper, and even then the ones I've seen are nothing like mine.

VVhat?

I’m going to gas all you Pontiacucks if you don’t stop being niggers

t. actual nigger

t. poor old nigger

>what is a restoration project

Need help trying to narrow this car starting problem down.

Up until recently had been driving my 64 falcon just fine with out issue, heck about 4 hours early I drove it around the block and back, parked it, come time to go to class get in dome light comes on and I put my key in, turn it to "power" and then over to start and hear a single "click" Then all the lights go out, try it again all the lights go out again. Go to try it Third time, no lights even turn on in the power position.

Next day the lights work again, but same problem try it twice then no more power.

So me and my dad take out his trucks battery to try it, nothing still dead. so we replace the starter solenoid still nothing, dad thinks it the starter, I Think its the crappy generator. Whos right, although I did see a spark come from the engine ground wire so I think its short now.

Thanks for the help in advance if I'am not around.

Forgot the name

Mother fucking phone posting.
Also meant "on" position not power.

We can assume its not the battery ir charging system since a brand new battery doesn't change things. I would disassemble all the major electrical connections (battery, engine/frame grounds, starter, alternator) take sandpaper or wire brush and clean it all up perfect. Don't accidently ground out your hot starter wire on the frame.

Poor
Old
Nigger
Thinks
It's
A
Caddilac

All pontiacs are nigger cars dumb weeb

Anything over 15" is nigger tier, you will never track day your car realistically so having thin tires is nothing but a demerit. Those fake repo wheels look like shit and are way too expensive for what they are anyways. If you want gaudy rims just buy some cragers, at least it would be period correct at that point.
you couldn't even download the picture

Cry harder, nigger.

Pontiacs were the best performance GM cars until they got neutered.
Cragers are still iffy the only "good" ones are in pic related

Depends; my '86 Corvette, technically a classic, has factory 16" wheels.

Oh were you the guy posting his dad?
Cool dad.

Back again.

Decided to go and try to fix the heat problem by lowering the idle speed.
It fixed it, then it went back to dying if it got floored.

Actually, it would die if I touched the gas, but then I upped it a little, then it stopped dying so easily.
It still would though.
I have it maybe a half turn more and it doesn’t die anymore but it now runs hot again.
WHY THE FUCK IS THERE NO HAPPY MEDIUM?!?!?!

Yup, he is my automotive mentor and a massive corvair/pontiac fanboy. The sequel is up on the old picture thread, but ill post it here to.

nice. my dad had a blue 74 with a 400 when he was younger. now i've got an 84. funny how that works out

Buy me some 15" hoosiers or bluestreaks any time, wanker

I really liked the red band wheels, I have a set for my 67 gto.

But of course what do I know about style. I also have fuzzy dice a lei and a hula girl in the same car.

This is what peak performance looks like

And I don’t even dislike it.
10/10 would camp again.

Anyone here have some good experience with Holley carbs?
I've always had the problem of rough idle when the engine is cold, once it starts getting cold out, but this morning the car just would not idle at all, was getting flooded like crazy.

Tonight I've found out that the Boosters are leaking fuel into the carb at idle and low RPM.
Even when the engine is off, they are still dripping a bit, for 10-15 seconds.

What could be the cause of this, for it to just suddenly happen? I'm thinking maybe power valve somehow.
Other pages online, say float level is too high, but I've never adjusted the floats in the 3 years I've had the carb on the engine.

Pic related, you can even see fuel sitting on the throttle plate

Shouldn't you be spending time making a driveway to you garage before restoring a vehicle?

Could you help a man out, what all did it take to convert it too 4x4.

>what are drop spindles not always clearing 15's
>what are larger brakes
>what are replacing drums with discs that won't fit in the 15's

Get the fuck over yourself, 17's are just fine, anything over is getting gaudy and anything over 20 is pure nigger unless it's an actual track/performance car.

Is it auto?
Are you sure you're adjusting the idle speed? What about the idle mixture?

Float level too high or if it happened spontaneously like you say - maybe your float valve is clogged?
Also they don't last forever, the float valve is a standard replacement part in any rebuilt kit.

What, cause it isn't paved? I don't own the house yet, also the driveway is 500' or longer. Paving is out of the question lol

A lot. No disrespect, but it's one of those things where if you have to ask, you probably shouldn't tackle it. It involves a good amount of fab work, not a bolt on swap. The topic has been covered countless times on multiple forums, I had a build thread on FTE but all the picture links are broken thanks to the jews at photobucket

If you're serious about swapping, save yourself time and money, and buy a donor 4x4 and swap chassis'

>you will never track day your car realistically so having thin tires is nothing but a demerit

Having a bit of trouble understanding this, but are you implying you want rubberband tyres to use in trackdays? It's precisely the opposite, if you're aiming for performance, you want some meat on your sidewalls, contrary to what Marketing dpts. say.

Symptom is consistent with a bad connection on the battery cables. Since you've goofed with both ends of the positive and the battery end of the negative my suggestion would be to clean and tighten the negative cable connection on the block.

Because you've got multiple problems. It shouldn't run hot at anything approaching an idle speed at no load. You need to figure that out first.

>floods
>rubber hose
>fuel pressure regulator
IME small bits of rubber hose will get in the needles and cause flooding. Usually the secondary due to relatively lower amounts of fuel flow but the primary is not immune. It also seems to happen more after the fuel lines are disconnected at the rubber hose. Pull the needles and thoroughly blow them out with compressed air or something and then do a thorough visual inspection too before reinstalling.

Alternatively, that regulator may have failed if you've got a pump on there that'll do more than about 7psi

Smaller sidewalls make the tire stiffer, if you have thick tires the rubber rolls. This is a good thing for launches in drag racing but bad for handling.
Thicc tires look better tho

Up to a point. I'm not saying you should run the tallest tyres you can find, I'm saying a rubberband tyre hurts grip more than it improves. Too small of a sidewall, and you start having problems keeping the tyres' contact patch planted on the ground, since you're transferring even more dampening work to the suspension frame. Remember the basic rule of tyre grip is to have as much surface area possible touching the asphalt, for as long as possible.

To add on this, while of course it varies from car to car, a good rule of thumb is that a 45 to 55 sidewall height is about the sweet spot for grip performance.

I'll take the fuel bowl off this morning before work, to make sure the float didn't sink or there isn't some chunks making the needle valve stick. I'll have to see if the local Lordco has the needle valves in stock and replace it.

I have a shitty Spectra Premium fuel pump, and I know it puts out 9PSI or more. But didn't have the fuel pressure regulator on it for a while, so I know the engine runs without it. Worst comes to worst, I'll get a rebuild kit

I wouldn't rule out the fuel pump.
In theory you should be able to turn the ignition on (assuming the pump comes on with ignition), or just hard wire it, as see if fuel pours out.

Then if you had a spare mechanical pump laying around you could hook it up, give it a pump by hand with a spanner, and see if the problem persists.

The fuel pump in there now is a mechanical one. Only 1 year old

Reread the question, I wasn't talking about the width of the tire, theoretically you don't want a tire at all when traveling on a perfectly smooth surface.

Oh right, didn't think you'd need a reg with a mechanical pump, I've never found a carby that wouldn't run on my stock pump but then I only play around with Italian shit.
Carry on....

Just look at race cars, the sidewall serves more of a purpose than you seem to imagine.

What's the name of this wheel style? Sawblades? Trying to find more info on this set but Google is giving me nothing useful. The Enkeis from aren't worth what the guy is asking for. These I can get for a steal but if they're the wrong backspacing then it's a moot point. Guy has only listed the bolt pattern and it would be a long drive to look at these.

>I wasn't talking about the width of the tire

Neither was I, what even gave you that idea?

Gotta go with the 5 sided sawblades man.

Apparently Cragar called them Super Spokes. Now we're getting results.

Not only working as part of the suspension, as I said, but there is another factor that often gets overlooked.
Unless you're running some exquisite, ultra light rims, a wheel with a larger alloys is heavier, and so, increased unsprung weight. Not only that, but most of the mass is now sitting towards the outer parts of the wheel instead of centered, which increases inertia even further. I even have a storytime about this:

>Acquaintance worked at a BTCC team mid 90's (at this time you could choose between racing 18" or 19" wheels), supplied by BMW if memory serves me right
>They get a notice from BMW's marketing dpt., in order to sell larger wheels to customers they want them to race with the 19's
>Team replied back, after extensive testing the car was faster with the 18's in every single category
>BMW's board stepped in, demands they start using the 19's, else they cancel the contract

There is also another point we shouldn't overlook, we see some race cars sporting large wheels and low profile tyres. That doesn't happen because they are superior, it's because it allows the teams to install larger brakes more resistant to fading, which overlap the performance deficit from the wheel itself.

Thoughts?

Meme-thrusts don't really fit the body lines and the headlight tape is just rice but that's in beautiful condition.

Seeing as they didn’t even offer 18s or 19s on BMWs until the E46 ZHP and M3’respectively. I seriously doubt that happened.

>boomerthrusts
>boomersilver paint
its shit

Hey thanks user, this turned out to be the issue, Thought it wasn't since I cleaned them earlier, but a ground wire to the further in back next to the starter there was was loose ground wire far in back didn't even see since I had resprayed engine bay black.

Get out of here with your wife's car finnegan.

Also, how do I connect pick related?

Cover your eyes all you want, marketing controlling the trends and publicity stunts has been known by enthusiasts for years. You call bullshit, but ever since the 90's we've been seeing a gradual increase in the available tyre sizes, haven't we? I don't like quoting from outside Veeky Forums because all the cries of
>muh cherrypick
but this sums the point quite nicely

>Here's a real world example. I track a Lotus Elise. It comes with 16" wheels up front and 17" wheels in the rear, smallish by today's standards. However, the engineers at Lotus wanted 15" wheels for performance reasons, but got overruled by the marketing department. Many of the fastest autocross and track junkies have ditched the stock wheels and gone to a 15" setup. They have found the change to be both an improvement in feel, but a measurable reduction in lap times. Of course, you can get away with than on an Elise because the car weighs so little, enormous brake rotors are unnecessary.

m8 I’m saying the story is bullshit because BMW didn’t make 18 or 19 inch wheels for the 3 series in the 90s. Not to mention they didn’t even use OEM wheels in BTCC in the 90s. Notice how the Golf and the BMW have the same wheels.

Sorry, it’s a Carina not a Golf