First car general

Hey guys!
It is my first time doing reddit posts here so I'm using a throwaway.
What are the best cars for starters in eastern-yuropooria, I can't really decide
>WV golf 2-4
>Volvo v70
>Volvo xc 70
>Audi A8
>Audi V8
>Audi 80 Sedan
Because I'm from EE i'd like to know which cars have the least transmission issues and best gas mileage.This place has shit roads so I would like a car that won't die after driving into many small holes and has the least electronics. Besides that which car has the biggest longetivity, I would like to drive it for 10 years+ because I'm a lazy person who loves shekels.

Other urls found in this thread:

m.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=436615201
ocala.craigslist.org/cto/d/1990-bmw-325i-e30/6394826563.html
atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/cto/d/1990-bmw-325i-e30-price-drop/6368794629.html
gainesville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1989-bmw-325i-sedan/6407188516.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

>considering a golf 2 to drive for the next 10 years
Absolute madman

If you want the car around for 10 years I’d drop the 3 Audi’s. Fun cars but, especially the A8, are expensive to maintain due to being luxury vehicles with extra electrical features. If any of these go out it’s gonna cost you more than you payed for the car

You’re best bet is to go for the Volvo or golf, much more simple vehicles with better fuel efficiency

If those are your only choices go with the Volvo V70 or XC70. Audi's in general are a pain in the ass to work on and spend more time in the shop then on the road. I have no knowlege of WV reliability however I can say audi's are a route you don't want to go down. Get yourself a Volvo if these are your choices

>You’re best bet is to go for the Volvo or golf, much more simple vehicles with better fuel efficiency
If volvo is the case which one is better V70 or XC70, because if the car has too many electronics it would fry here(cold+humid 9 months of the year)?

>Audi V8
>as beginner car
>no money
>is lazy

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHHAAHA

oh man.

that was good.

>Get yourself a Volvo if these are your choices
I could get old Soviet Niva, but the transmission and bearings in the engine are the pain in the ass.
What is wrong with Golfs?

This.
The V8 is about 5 times more expensive to keep running than the A8 and even the A8 is an absolute MONSTER in running and maintenance costs.

You have no fucking clue.

V8 costs here around 10 000 Yuros(used)

>Eastern Europoor
>broke faggot

Just get a Golf 4 like everyone over there does.

You don't get it.
A car's costs isn't just buying it.
The V8 is KNOWN to have lots of problems that need to be taken care of and these problems are not cheap to fix.
Also everything is expensive about it. In like 2 years of ownership the buying costs were probably the smallest amount you had to spend.

>Czeked
Thank you.
Are there other cars you would like to adivse?

As a beginner you should get something really simple with tons of spare parts available (meaning the running costs will be low). So check for cars around the 20 year mark that are still quite common on your roads.
As said, the Golf 4 is breddy gud and also anything VW with the 1.9 tdi engine. If the car is in good shape those run for literally forever. Many Skodas had the 1.9tdi too so also look for Octavias.

I wouldn't keep it for a decade tho. Try to make more and more money and get something nicer when you can afford the running costs.

A4 b5 quattro 1.8T or V6

nekupuj si 1.9 tdíčko
buy honda civic or a škoda ok

Nothing wrong with golfs its just that the mk2 golf is an ancient shitbox with Lada tier comfort

Tell us your budget you idiot

>nekupuj si 1.9 tdíčko
Žto kurwa?
>buy honda civic or a škoda ok
Shkoda, haven't thought about it, are there any good ones?

4500-5000 yuros.

Is that only for the car, or for everything, including maintenance, because you need at least double that to keep an A8/V8 running. The rest are quite a bit cheaper, Volvo is probably slightly more expensive to maintain than VW and shitbox-spec Audis though.

it doesn't include maintenance.
I could get a Saab but which one is better 9000 or 900?

Audi 80 is basically a VW with better rustproofing.

Purists will say 900 is better because its not on a Fiat/GM platform. Frankly I don`t see either of those around.

If you want European - Skoda Fabia for that kind of money you can even find ones from 2013
If you don't mind driving Japanese get a Honda Jazz from 2008-9 they are very economical and reliable cars

Old cars will have problems eventually, and while they're cheap at first they'll cost more later on. The bigger the engine the more expensive maintenance time will be. V8 spark plugs? Gotta change 8 plugs. V8 oil change? More quarts of oil required. Fancy car, fancy brakes.

Some brands also have weird quirks like very common common problems which become a ridiculous expense, or another example of a weird quirk is special tools required to take car of the car. Not in your list but for example the Audi TT has a latch for the glove compartment milled out of a block of aluminum. If you get it replaced at the Audi dealer it costs around 2000 USD (if I remember correctly), and this is a problem that can happen on the car frequently. When it does the glove box won't open. If you're looking at older shit, Volvo is pretty damn safe, because... well its a Volvo so you get it.

>Frankly I don`t see either of those around.
They are dying out since chinks bought it.
Thankfully I live in a small country(size of Maine) so parts are easy to come by.
>Honda Jazz from 2008-9 they are very economical and reliable cars
As a japanese car won't it die during winters(hits lower than -25 degrees(OC) with 75% humidity)

>As a japanese car won't it die during winters
Are you joking? Japan is 90% mountains and has winter.

Modern diesels don't have an issue in winter, but I still wouldn't recommend getting a diesel if one is buying a small car.
Yes you get 1l/100km less consumption but when something breaks on a modern diesel you pay out the ass for expensive high pressure pumps and injectors and turbo refurbishing and so on.
IMHO diesel only makes sense if one's buying a big family car or SUV where the difference in fuel consumption is more pronounced, or if you do a ton of driving (then again doing an LPG conversion is even cheaper in that case).

>As a japanese car won't it die during winters(hits lower than -25 degrees(OC) with 75% humidity)

They drive Japcars in Siberia, the Eastern ass-end of Russia is full of them. The only thing you should worry about is rust,

for some reason I want to get either a blacked out crown Vic or town car. which one guys?

gun
1 bullet

ffs grow a brain and buy something practical, a poor choice in cars will eat your disposable income

Have you thought about an E36 compact? They're really popular and cheap in most of Europe, and probably the cheapest RWD car you can buy (aside from the Opel Omega maybe)

The 80 is pretty solid. Simpler than the A4 and the 2.3l inline 5 is bulletproof.

>A8 for first car
Unusta ära
>Audi V8
Hobby car
>Opel Omega
Older Opels will just rust away with 1 winter, roads are getting salted with somekind of though shit

Golf 4 is a really good car. Not too expensive, reliable, good looking, good mpg. Just avoid 1.4 engine. My first car was golf 4 1.4. 1.6 or bigger and you are golden

>Older Opels will just rust away with 1 winter

They had 20 winters some even 30.
Why should the next one SUDDENLY be the one they just pulverize instantly?

all of them, Octavia is a sedan Golf rebrand, Fabia is Polo. As for 1.9tdi, don't. It's a great engine, but new drivers tend to be faggots, and you can't hoon a 200K miles diesel while it's cold and good 10K km after it was supposed to have it's oil changed. Not that petrol can, but servicing petrol engines is much cheaper on eurobeaters, less shit to go wrong.

Golf Mk 3s are solid. I would get one of those

I Ann currently looking cars. There is a Lexus IS300 in n my area that is very clean. And I was also looking at an 89 supra

Buying my first. I want a
>manual transmission
>easy to work on
>fun to drive
>four seats, optional four doors
Is $8500 a good price for a '91 Sedan E30 Bimmer?
m.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=436615201
Is buying something this iconic/classic when I don't know shit about cars a douchey thing to do?

Bump

I found a used 2016 jetta for about 11 grand (31000 miles)

seems pretty good for the price.
Is it worth it?

>26 years old shitbox
>8k
>gutless 4 banger
That's way too fucking much for a box on wheels slower than a civic for 3k

op get a seat. they are just cheaper vw's, everything else is basically the same.

i had a 2000 seat leon 1.4 just avoid the 1.4 because it's a piece of shit garbage cunt of an engine and you'll do fine.

loved mine, i once drove it into the ditch and fucked up my suspension. got it serviced and my mechanic just put octavia's suspension on and i paid him in grain alcohol and got going again.

anyway cheap parts because vw/seat/skoda parts are the same and they all fit, cheap to buy because it's a seat and not a vw and gopniks tend to avoid them because it's not german.

great value for money.

Nobody from eastern europe cares about maintenance. That's why cars with about 150k km are in such a bad condition.

...

Yeah I agree, I did more research. Found two others. Which one and why?
ocala.craigslist.org/cto/d/1990-bmw-325i-e30/6394826563.html
vs
atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/cto/d/1990-bmw-325i-e30-price-drop/6368794629.html

link 1 pros
>cheaper (3k vs 4.3k)
>closer to home
>168k miles (vs 233k) doesn't matter for an E30 though
>comes w/ extra parts
>convertible
link 1 cons
>odometer is broken, easy fix I think
>"A/C needs a blower fan fuse or blower fan" idk what this means
>convertible

link 2 pros
>much better taken care of, I spoke with the seller and he knows his shit
>AC, odometer, everyfuckingthing else in working order
link 2 cons
>233k miles, once again doesn't really matter
>sorta far away
>priced 1.3k higher

The basic gestalt is that I'm a newfag and I'd be playing it safe with link 2 (maintenance-wise), but assuming both have been taken care of adequately link 1 would be the much better option. A much cheaper convertible with less mileage that's only two hours away instead of six. I just hope the AC works or it's an easy fix.

I don't like red as much but honestly who cares.
>pic is stock image

Thing is, "maintaining" an ancient shitbarge probably costs half a years salary to most Slavlanders.

Dacia 1300 and some wire.

what Link 1 cons actually means is inside the engine bay there is the blower motor, and the resistor, and I'm willing to bet money the resistor shit the bed
(sources)
>my E30's bmr has shit the bed a few times
P.S
Unless you know what you're doing, those E30 clusters are a real pain in the dick.

If you think for a minute any BMW is going to be easy to work on, close that craigslist tab, open a new one, and search "Volvo"

>autotrader.com/

E30 is easy to work on
What

gainesville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1989-bmw-325i-sedan/6407188516.html
I found a better one

>my first time doing reddit posts here

FUCKING NORMIE REEEEEEEE GET OUT OUT

Do you own an E30? I'll give you the fact that the 4 bangers have lots of room and they're easy, but the 6's are a pain to do almost anything.

That's a yes from me. Cleanest I've seen in a while, and the M20's are great. It might not be as easy as the 4 banger, and it takes some getting used to, but it's well worth it. Especially one that clean.

Just watch out for stuff like hidden rust, fluid leaks, and cracks in the subframe.

which cars are 4 bangers?

318i, M3?

How much easier is it to work on a 318 vs a 325? Night and day or if it's a clean example 325 (like my new link) is it comparable?