QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

A 2004 Honda S2000.

But seriously imo the 94/96 Miata is great.

is getting air suspension on my car worth it?
looking to get a DD and looking to go on spirited straight line drives with it often, too

What car nonkun. And it depends on what you want to do to the car.

so I think the previous owner of my car neglected to change the oil properly and it has harmed my oil pump and it's on it's way out.
Is there anything I could do to prolong the life of it?
I've already changed the oil about 5 times in the 7k miles I've owned it and my VVT issue seems gone at least.
Engine is a vq35de in an 04 Murano.

god damn it man, i thought i had settled on a 03 mr2 turbo until i saw a clean ass na miat, but now you have to ruin it again.

thanks though.

an RX-8 or a turbo FC if i can find one

if i get an RX-8, it'd be DD'd on city roads

>Tfw reading about this now
Shit, I could afford it but do I want it? A more comfy ride for my '14 mustang gt would be nice.

Thoughts on the B5.5 Passat wagon 1.9 TDI?

I need a cheap car with which to haul around blackberries (the fruits, not the phones) and I was thinking that a B5.5 Wagon is hard to beat, value for money wise.
I guess I could go for a B5 Wagon aswell, since those are as cheap as 1.000 euros, but I'm afraid that those cars are way too old now. The B5.5 is around 2.5-3k euros, and the B6 is just too luxurious to haul around fruits with it.

Naturally, the only real predator of the B5.5 Wagon is the Golf IV Wagon...The Mk4 Golf is even cheaper to run and much more reliable, but given that the Passat costs a few hundred euros more, you get a whole another level of car.

Ofc, the Mk 4 Golf gets that legendary 1.9 TDI ALH engine, as opposed to the Passat which has to do with the 101 bhp AVB engine.

And the Golf 4 is very ugly. Not that looks prevail here, but still...

>inb4 1.9 SDI. A friend of mine has a Caddy with the 1.9 SDI. Downright indestructible and economical, but slow af.

Yea sure there is the Astra H but I heard that it is plagued with electronics issues and that I would be better off with a hand cart

I'm about to pull the trigger on a new to me car mid next week. I am conflicted because I love and cherish my current car so much that i don't want to replace it. However it just hit 240k miles and I'm afraid at how much longer it would last. I'm gonna be moving out of my home within the first quarter of 2018 and i don't want to have any major issues that would fuck my my transportation to work or have hard times hit when im adjusting. I can't afford both insurances and a payment (financing purely to initiate credit) so I would have to garage my current one. I'm interested in some opinions on what I should do for it. I've kind of come to terms with restoring my current car over some long period

Can't find a Haynes or Chilton manual for my car, but saw this on eBay

>This is a complete Factory Service Manual contains all necessary instructions needed for any repair your vehicle may require. It is the very same manual Dealer Technicians use to diagnose and repair your vehicle with. Whether it's routine maintenance such as tune ups and brake service or more extensive repair involving engine and transmission disassembly, the factory manual provides the most reliable information.

Just a PDF you can print off. Any thoughts? Anyone ever use a manual that's not Chilton? I'm no car genius, just want to learn simple stuff.

That's probably the manufacturer service manual which will tell you all the same shit just in a slightly less handholdy way.

>240k miles
>too old

Unless you drive a Kia or something, a 240k car has a lot of life left in it.
You know that car very well, whereas with a new car, you'll never know what you get.

Also, used cars usually require a major refresh every 3-5 years, with general suspension rebuild and some engine repairs and they are good to go.

Many, well-kept cars have gone past the 500k miles mark.

If you take your car to the shop every 6 months, just for regular check-ups, every car can go to the moon and back.

It's much cheaper to take care of your current car, rather than fucking yourself over with a new car. And you don't seem like the sort of guy who can afford to shit on money.

Bump

Okay, thanks user! I'll buy it for $15

Still bump

Is there a relatively modern car (let's say 2000 or newer) that comes with all of the following?

RWD with LSD
Manual transmission
6 cylinder engine (preferably a N/A inline-6 one)
Is reliable and not too prone to rust
Is a well build sedan (quietest and comfiest bodystyle)
Is available in LHD and with it's units in kms

You pretty much described the E39 and the E60 (to some extent).

Bump

My parent's car started behaving weird while in neutral. It does some small irregular shakes, kind of like how Harley bikes do, only there are no loud explosions coming from the exhaust. What could be some likely culprits for that? While moving and in gear its all ok though.

I have an E39 just like the one in the picture hella nice car user.

In my opinion the 1.9TDI is a very strong and reliable engine but when it comes to servicing anything other than the diesel filter say injectors it is a bitch.

Sorry nonkun if that's the case it's just a matter of time.

probably a dumb question
any one knows what is the steering wheel size on 2006 Ford Fusion? I need to buy a leather steering wheel cover, it's for a Christmas present for my girlfriend, so I obviously can't measure it myself.

AXX - 15"x 3-3/4"

I see. Thanks.

But the 1.9TDI does not have a DPF.

Oop sorry must've been thinking of the 2.0. Sorry!

From people that have it i hear it's a very cushy ride. My dad truck used to have it but he stopped using it after rats killed the wiring and i dont remember what the ride was like

More information needed like what year is it, what make and model. Prior services is a bonus

There was a 2.0 TDI on the B5.5 Passat, installed in the final year, and it was different from the B6 2.0 TDI.

ANyway, I know that the 1.9 TDI is a legendary engine, but are they still legendary? Most of them must have well over 500k kms now.

But, then again, if a 1.000 euro car moves then its a win! Especially since I just wanna haul fruit with it.

>put on new hood struts
>close hood
>both immediately snap at the threads

What I do wrong? $13 on ebay too cheap?

Have a few buddies that use them, the common feeling is that you're lucky if they last 10k miles.

Are you willing to shell out 3k for a decent system?

ELI5 4 vs 6 cylinder. I want an E30 but my only options are 325i's. How much harder is it to work on compared to a 318i? Manageable for someone who doesn't know what he's doing?

I just got given a 2003 Centennial Taurus today, and I am cleaning it up and detailing it, and I noticed that the radio display is pretty dim and terrible, the tape deck doesn't work, and it has this fucking awkward 6 CD cartridge under the armrest. My question is, how can I replace the whole thing? I plan on getting a new insert for the center console to remove the CD changer, and I want to replace the climate controls and radio, but I can't seem to find any good places to find something like that. The normal 2003 taurus has aftermarket listings all over the place, but that had the dial system, and I want to get rid of the whole thing. I am an idiot, help me out.

The disk changer.

I need to do a headlight restoration for my car. Can I use a semi-gloss clear coat or do I need to get a regular gloss clear coat? I have a can of semi-gloss laying around.

Decided to clean my 2001 BMW 530i out today and the right backseat floor was soaking wet. The floor mat smelled like cat pee (similar to ammonia if you don't have cats), but the carpet beneath it didn't really smell like anything, but was still wet. I don't eat or drink in my car. I only put groceries in my trunk so nothing could have leaked. Everything else in the car was bone dry. I haven't left any windows open for a cat to jump in. Car runs fine.

What this could possibly be??

how difficult is it to wire a tach into a super five, i was thinking of replacing the utterly pointless analog clock with one of those ebay tachometers but i have no clue about car electronics
ona a side note, if my engine is covered in some kind of grimy dark fluid does it necessarily mean that it's burning oil?

if that is your car i absolutely love it. What a little cutie

I'm considering buying a Scion tc.
Someone convince me not to.

should be long enough for me to save up for a better brand... or another set of ebay turbos :) Thanks user

>blinding amounts of insight from the best board on Veeky Forums
going with the balkamp since it's closer and if it doesn't test right they won't hassle me for boiling it when i return it

>Randy: Introducing the Scion tC!
>The bold, sleek styling is all like ka-kow,
>but the 2.4-liter dual overhead cam engine with 160-horsepower is all like KA-KOW!
you could do worse

Basically what it comes down to is I want to buy my first sport(ish) car but I also want something newer that'll last me like ten years and the tc fits my budget nicely.
The other car I'm considering is the Civic si, but it's like 5k more.

>some sort of blog
>questions if a toyota product will last 10 years
youtube.com/watch?v=0fvOg13V5mI
SCIRON TEE SHE!

Would people like the Stiger more if it had an I6 instead of a V6

I didn't intend to blog, I was giving information on my situation so maybe someone could provide some input or even an alternative.
I'm sorry I came so a questions thread looking for advice.

No because it doesn't address the main reasons people dislike it.

>still fat and heavy
>still Kia
>still surrounded by both shills and shitposters

>got an answer
>still butthurt
I'm sorry you came here too

What is "wear and tear" and how is it defined for engine life? If you buy a vehicle that never had oil changes for 50k and suddenly started changing the oil every 3k could you "heal" some of that damage?

Or is it really the first 10k that matters?

Can anyone recommend a vehicle importing service in Ontario, preferably in the GTA area? I am considering importing a car and wanted to get some more information about it.

What's the hardest part about doing your spark plugs?

>If you buy a vehicle that never had oil changes for 50k and suddenly started changing the oil every 3k could you "heal" some of that damage?

No.

>Or is it really the first 10k that matters?

The first 10k sets the wear pattern parts will fall in line for the rest of the engines life, if abused in that period tolerances will be much much worse over time.

Working on the 6cyls is really not that much more difficult, they basically use the same fuel management system, and the electronics are pretty much the same.

Depends on the car, If you're working on 5.4 modular they tend to snap.

I know this is encroaching spoonfeeding territory but I couldn't find anything concrete online so I've gotta ask.

If you could place both 4 and 6 cylinder on a 1-10 scale, 1 being easiest and 10 being hardest, where would they go?

don't they have yelp in a fucking leaf?

>arbitrarily rate two popular engine designs
>that both individually have merits and weaknesses
it's not even summer my dude

I already mentioned my focus is ease of working on, I don't have to say it twice. Learn to read

Yes, there is Yelp here.I was hoping to hear from someone here who has used their service. I will look on Yelp too though, that is a good idea.

>doesn't realize anons statement addressed his original retarded question
>says it twice
>too stupid to realize longitudinally mounted inline engines take up the same amount of space
>wants a 4 cylinder habibmobile
>on a scale of 1-10 how retarded?
11
be lucky you got an answer faggot

The situation:
>Own a Saab 9-3
>For various reasons, Uber is the only form of stable employment I seem to be able to get, at least in the short term
>I like my car but am conscious that maintenance isn't cheap, especially when parts need replacing. It's also not great on fuel and it feels like a crime to pile on the miles
>Have someone who's likely willing to buy it, so I could sell it to them and buy a shitbox that's cheap to maintain and good on fuel
Should I sell it and buy something else or just hold on to it and use it for uber

How necessary is it to get a mechanic to look at a car before buying it?
If the owner says it's in good condition, you have all the service records, can't see anything wrong yourself on inspection and it seems fine on the test drive is it really worth dropping 300 on an inspection?

how does porting a rotary engine (or any engine) make more power? It's not like the engine is displacing more air or anything. Is it because there is less of a vacuum in the chamber and the volumetric efficiency is higher?

I'm looking for a compact-midsize sport sedan that's comfy, fun to drive, reliable, and preferably less than 5 years old. 6-cylinder and rwd highly preferred, forced induction is nice too. What order would you recommend these as far as best pick for the money?

>335i/340i
>G37/Q50
>IS350
>XE
>gamble on the Stinger/G70

Thoughts on this Alfa Romeo Gt
It's from 2004, 150k km on clock, 1.9 jtd 150hp diesel
Distribution and transmission changed recently
5k

I always wondered why these go for so cheap, can anyone explain what's wrong with them?

>Afla Romeo
Say no more!

If the car costs more that 5g and you know nothing about the car, it's worth it. I wouldn't do it to every car I checked out tho. Find something you want to buy, then get it checked out.
You should stop driving uber. You're never going to make back the money you'll have to spend on car wear and tear.

Fuck you. What's the point of these qtddtot threads if you're gonna fucking do this every time

Suck my dick whitey

>You should stop driving uber. You're never going to make back the money you'll have to spend on car wear and tear.
I did it for a few weeks and I seemed to be averaging about 20 dollarydoos/hour after taking out petrol and tax. Now I'm not sure exactly how much you end up spending on maintenance yet but surely with a cheap beater it would more than cover it. Anyway it's either that or work for the dole.

>car has 75mm OD pipe leading to muffler
>replacement muffler has 80mm OD pipe
My plan is to buy a 76mm ID to 76mm OD exhaust reducer\connector, buy a shitty harbor freight pipe expanding tool, expand the 76mm ID end of the reducer out to 80mm ID using the tool, expand the 76mm OD end out to 75mm ID, and slip joint+clamp all that shit together.
The problem is that reviews for the tool are overwhelmingly bad. Apparently the harbor freight pipe expander tools will react and evaporate into mustard gas if I bring them anywhere near a pipe. Anybody have experience with this sort of work?

yes (maybe)

How likely is it that I need a new FOB for my truck, Veeky Forums?

>2000 frontier
>didn't come with one when i bought it, owner mickey moused the clutch interlock fuse so i could still start the car
>alarm's being a complete pain in the ass
>suddenly decided it's going to trip the alarm any time i unlock/start the car, open the door, or plug in the battery

My door is opening hard recently, should i use wd-40 or silikon spray for the hole?

I'm 18, licenseless, and trying to learn how to drive but my state handbook is particularly shit. Can anybody recommend me some videos and other books that might make this easier? I'm evidently retarded.

what car is this

looks like a Volvo 544 to me m8

screaming chicken

looks like an isuzu pickup but it's hard with so much of it obscured

...

Mitsubishi Fuso?

Ford F150

Chevy express

infiniti g37

I KNOW IT'S A PONTIAC BUT WHAT MODEL
I DON'T KNOW SHIT ABOUT MUSCLE CARS

lmgtfy.com/?q=70s pontiac muscle car

it's not hard...

how much am i meant to value a car? i can't seem to think of a car ever being that worth much like the idea of paying more than £4000 for a car seems ludicrous to me but i'm a poorfag. i can afford way more that that but it doesn't seem like a frugal option

ordinarily that would be fine but i hate my shitbox. it feels like the front control arms are fucked or something because it's like skating around on ice. it's shit. everytime something else breaks i go "well i wont have to replace that again" but it's just getting so fucking annoying

i want a good car but i don't want to pay for one?? retard alert

i still can't find it amigo
how could i have known it was from the 70s
this isn't like some other boards you can spoonfeed

TLDR how can a battery gain charge if the car isnt on?

My last car had an issue where it just wouldnt start sometimes, usually after id been driving for a while. A previous owner had wired the radiator fan to the battery and put a switch under the dash, so the fan was either always on or always off while the car was on. I left it on because i CBF'ed to remember to turn it on/off all the time. The fan was supposed to kick in at certain temps, and the constant drain was probably too much for the battery, leading to the occasional refusal to start. If i just waited the battery gauge would slowly creep up towards 12 or 13v and it would usually start when it got there. How could it just gain charge out of nowhere though? The car was off, so the alt wasnt charging it. I didnt use a self jumpstarter or anything, so i dont see how it charged itself. It got hit and totaled so it doesnt matter anymore, im just curious as to how that could happen

My 1980 trans am has a 403 in it that needs a rebuild. Should I rebuild it or should I track down a 400? How much should I expect to pay for a 400?