QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

Ok, so I've been communicating with this dealer for about a week now for a 2013 v6 automatic mustang. The original price is $16000, technically $17120 if you include tax.

I legitimately told him I was no longer interested and he got really desperate so I told the dealer the car is simply out of my budget and 15k is about my max. His out the door price is now 16k, which means I would technically be getting the car for $14,880. Good deal? Bad deal?

I could always reply "oh, i meant 15k as in including the state tax." But I don't know how low they'll go because that's barely above the max kelley blue book trade-in price. Also the person who replied to me wasn't the original person I've been communicating with, but the sales manager if that means anything.

Also it is Ford Certified with the 12000 mile/1 year warranty and other perks. It has remote start as well.

great answer, thanks
i would like to do it as soon as i can figure what clutch i should get so i can order it and take it to a shop. i ain't doing that shit myself (pending how much labor will cost).

Any part store worth its salt will tell you what clutch you need with just a few info about your car, you will probably only have to choose the brand

I'm not into it, not only is it only 5k less than a brand new accord lx, but it's also a base model. I'd maybe look into a slightly older TSX like I told last thread.

Back to I'm still not sold on the v6 automatic. Last thread when you said something about the 14' manual, guessing mustang, that would be better than the v6 auto. You could also look into a frs/brz for the same price, if not lower for a 13' model.

Friend I know is offering me his 4.6l 3v 05 mustang gt with a roush supercharger on it, 20k miles. Pushing high 400 to the wheels, he's asking like 16k but said 13k for me, good idea? Stock internals.

Yeah a newer manual would be better, but my dad is only letting me get an auto. We don't really have anything for me to learn manual on even if he was open to teaching me. A friend told me to look into those too but I don't really like the look of them. They're cool but something about them doesn't really sell me.

Whats a good fast car I can get for 5-15k? Corvette c5?

is there a rule of thumb for how much thread engagement you need from your studs or lug bolts for sufficient clamping power? For example I read somewhere that the lug nut should turn at least 6 times for most cars.

Is it worth buying $150 worth of cheap "literal" cancer from nrg. I mean I doubt I need to worry about the cancer, sense steering wheel will prob break and I die before the cancer gets me.

at least .5 inch? idk. if you're struggling to thread the first lug while putting wheels back on, i'd say you need longer studs.

also where's the dick

jaguar xkr

I live in fort lauderdale. The truckbros are certainly doing it a lot, like in the wheel wells and stuff. I've actually thought of doing it. I think it's time we bring it back.

unanswered from last thread

hey Veeky Forums i'm stranded in croatia without wheels and was looking for some advice

anyone know what sort of price a mercedes benz 240d with 250000kms should go for in this area? they seem a bit pricey and im thinking i might just be falling for a meme

also anyone have negative opinions on the nissan sunny n13? i found a pretty cheap one and i've heard they are reliable

If I replace the bushings or both anti-sway bars, does the suspension require other modifications such as the springs?

Asked this in last thread, but it hit the bump limit.

assuming I beef up the suspension and drivetrain, could a 90s Chevy 1/2 ton pull a bumper hitch car trailer reliably? Not sure what the tow rating for my truck is. 94 Silverado. 350, 4 speed. It's got a trans cooler on it, if that matters.

Depends on why you are changing the sway bars and what you are trying to achieve

Hit some ice on my truck, spun around and hit the guardrail. I was going around 40kmh.

Bumper is fugged, headlight and fender too. Truck drove fine by what I could tell (no pulling either way, no weird steering feel). Suspension components look fine.

But I'm worried about frame damage. The bumper is huge, and because I hit it right at the corner, the corner of the bumper caved in and took most o the energy of the impact. The inner bumper seems to be intact. How can I be sure that the frame wasn't bent? Can't take it to the shop bc I have o headlight and no bumper

Tl;dr: hit ice, hit guardrail. How to tell if frame is fucked?

there's a drrrr sound coming from my rear. Hoes away when I accelerate and brake increases when I let the car glide
e46 320D manual btw

I have a rear main seal leak on my transmission. Is this shit safe to use or is it a last resort only?

>double money back guarantee
This worries me.

I wouldnt ever use something like that, even if it plugs the leak, what else is it gumming up in your trans. better to keep refilling with trans fluid and then replace the seal when you can.

I'm out of town for a few weeks, and my dad offered to run my Saab 9-3 now and then since it is quite cold out, thinking that keeping it active would be helpful. I showed him how to turn it on, and had him take it for a test drive before I left. Today he is telling me that the car won't start; starter seems to be fine, so he thinks the battery is low (although it was new as of a month ago).

One quirk of my car is that when you turn the key in the ignition to "start," it sticks in place and must be manually turned back to the "on" position after you finish starting up the engine. I mentioned this, but I suspect he may have forgotten about it. If he has been leaving the key stuck in the "start" position every time he takes it for a drive, am I correct in suspecting that that could have played a role in tanking the battery (if that truly is the issue)?

What's a good tint rating for dampening the sunlight a little without blinding myself at night?
I got a car used and it has tinted windows. I can't tell the rating, but even though it doesn't seem too dark in the day, it becomes annoyingly dark at night, especially the rear window that I can barely see anything out of.

the battery only acts as a buffer for the electrical system while the car is running, the alternator is doing most of the work, so I don't see how that would be possible.
Now, is that sticking normal? Does the starter motor disengage in that position? Because if it doesn't your dad just destroyed it.

Let's say I already drive a typical commuter car, and I would like to buy a fun car as a second car. What are the additional costs?
>the car
Let's say I'm spending fuel
Probably a very small increase, if anything. The only additional driving would be joy rides.
>maintenance
With it being fun and impractical, I would assume this cost would be more than my commuter, despite driving the fun car less.
>insurance
This is where I really have no idea. How much more is it to insure a second car?

Can somebody give me some real world numbers from experience? Pic related is only an example of what I might want.

are aftermarket endlinks for a WRX a meme? my front ones are totally fucking trashed and have tons of play in them. i bought a pair of $40 dollar moog ones which are pretty beefy but based off the original design. im not spending $200 USD for some meme ones when my car needs a bunch of shit right now.

jacked it up it was the wheel ffs how did i miss this
drove like 100km with the sound how bad did I fuck up my wheel bolt threads

>How much more is it to insure a second car?
gonna depend entirely on the car in question.

Lost my keys, and had to order a new fob online. I'm following these directions to try and program it, but I can't get past step 4. I cycle the 10 times way faster than 15 seconds, but nothing happens. 07 wrx
Did I order the wrong fob, or am I doing something wrong?

Stiffening
I have heard that the accord steers like a boat, so I was wondering if this would change it because I can get an ok deal on one.

Previous thread died so I'm askin' again.

I have a 17 year old Au ford falcon sedan. I'd like to, assuming it won't kill me, take it on a road trip through Australia.

What kind of things should I be checking/replacing to both see if the car can make a trip like that, and to give it the best chance of surviving the trip?

Current plan is to take it on longer and longer trips and see when it dies, but ideally I'd like to not have it die at all.

Got a project Veeky Forums might be interested in. Some time in the next few months, my friends and I will be getting our cars together into a convoy and 2500-3000 km's, then back again.

Anybody ever done anything like this before? Any experiences you could share?

We're still in initial planning, but at this point the plan is getting serious. We have 3 cars that are committed, but that number could potentially more than double. Would love to know if Veeky Forums has ever done anything like this.

I just got purchased a car from a used dealer, however it has this thing on the window that wasn't ever removed or if it's part of the car. It's a 2004 jeep liberty

probably an XM antenna
or a gubment listening device, depending on your imagination.

Also it blinks red when you press it's button

What's the most stripped down car you can buy new? I'm talking no radio, no carpet,unfinished interiors, straps for door handles instead of handles, minimal safety additives.

I think a Ford fiesta for 11

In terms of performance, how much would a DCT benefit a high torque vehicle such as the viper?

I want to install a limited slip carrier in my diff. I know if you change the gears you have to set the contact right but can i put the current gear onto the new carrier with the same spacers and shims?

dang, That model seems ritzy for me

Also maybe the versa given youre in the U.S.

do they even sell cars without screens in the dash anymore?

The steering wheel on the used car I brought seems pretty fucked. Is changing it a massive job?

Also, at what point is the steering wheel actually compromised, and is there a way to tell if the damage is just cosmetic?

Got a few things on this car that need replacing, and if I can avoid replacing the wheel for a few more months, that'd be awesome. No play at all on the wheel though, so that's nice.

trailers.com/tow-capacity/index.php?action=do_search&year=1994&make=Chevrolet/GMC&model=C1500 Pickup (2WD)&template=normal Just google it man. Most car trailers are around 2000 pounds so lighter cars around 3000 pounds you’d be okay but nothing big

Changing the wheel itself isn't that big of a deal, it's just a big nut holding it in place and the spline on the column is often made with a bigger tooth so you don't even have to mark down the position of the wheel relative to the spline because they will always engage only in one position.

The pain in the ass is usually removing the airbag. Some of them are very easy and straightforward with just a couple of screws that you can access from the back, but some are a supreme pain in the ass where you have to blindly find a big metal spring inside them with a couple of flat screwdriver and fiddle with it for half an hour until you finally manage to compress it just enough for the whole airbags to slide out if the wheel.
But the worst of the worst are those wheels where the holes that you use to access the airbag screws/springs are completely covered by leather, forcing you to pierce it if you want to remove the airbag, it's just so fucking retarded that you need to break a piece of trim (even if it's not really visible unless you go look at it from behind the wheel) without any way to repair it afterwards. I really can't understand how people managed to come up with such a stupid system.

That said, the job usually consist on removing column covers, disconnecting a bunch of wires, pray to your gods that the airbag is easy to remove and then removing the single nut holding the wheel.
It's not a hard job, not by a long shot, but it has the potential to become a long and frustrating one depending on how creative the engineers were when they designed the whole assembly.

Measure from center of hub to center of hub left and right should be the same. Look from behind at a distance and see if your tires line up or look off center

If everything else is stock they’re a meme. If you’re going for marginal gains then yeah they’ll help. Stock style is always best all rounder

All oil and fluids. Send your oil to be analyzed by a company. Check tires, brakes, and suspension components on all 4 corners. Replace fuel filter if easy to do so.

If you’re putting in new parts you need to relish and shim everything

Put a cheap cover over it. If it has electronics on it it’ll be a little difficult but usually only one or two nuts hold it on. You’ll need a puller to get it off. Watch out for that airbag

anybody here know anything about Carter AFB carbs? my dad gave me an old v8 he had sitting around that i'm building, and it has a dual four barrel intake on it, that has two Carter AFBs on it right now. I know nothing about them, and they were on the engine when he got it, so he doesn't either. all I know is it has "6 1485" stamped on it, and google isn't turning up shit

How do you remove the gear shift knob from an anus?

I'm asking for a friend.

Really need an answer on this, pronto.

just try turning counterclock wise

>If you’re putting in new parts you need to relish and shim everything
Shit.

Stop REEEEEING faggot. Get an old used car and get fucked.

might as well. Has anyone ever done an automatic to manual conversion? Is it worth it?

I wanted to do one but the cost kept rising as i realized how many parts needed to be changed for so little reward. Its more worth while to just manually shift the auto

second this response. jack stands are mandatory.

your thermostat could be fubar and stuck closed. I would check there first.

nope, think older. cars like that are bricks so older is a good cost saving decision.

in situations like that I question why the desperation. is there something wrong with the car? is it a money pit? things like that.

no one answered cause your looking for a Mercedes with high km. your therefor too stupid to be driving.

if your not pulling you shouldnt be bent. Scotty Kilmer made a good video on how to look for frame damage when buying a car that might help

NEVER USE STOP LEAK IN ANYTHING BUT A RADIATOR (and even then, only as a last resort or in a throw away)

call a bonded locksmith

oil, brakes, radiator (its hot as fuck there so if your radiator is not tip top your gonna blow), tires and make sure your spare is good and filled

say radio antenna or a remote starter antenna

if there is not play then I cannot see how you think its fucked

Easier to sell it and buy a manual version

How long can I drive on a bad clutch with a very loud pilot bearing?

Buy a car at $17,000 or buy a more used version of the same car for $12,000 and use $5000 to change parts for new ones and performance upgrades?

Which is the better option?

GPS kill switch/low jack, if you miss a payment they can just deactivate the car,miss more payments they'll track the car then tow it.

option b. then you have the ability to address the shortcomings of the OEM parts for the car.

how do i into part numbers and parts and the requisition of parts?

>Completely fill up your fuel tank.
>Car randomly runs like shit and I notice small drops of fuel when I park my car.
>Neither of these happens if I only have 70% or less fuel.

Apparently I have a small hole on my fuel tank? Is this something I can live with for years or should I replace my fuel tank with a new one ASAP? Is this hard to do by yourself?

What reasons are there to get a 2-door version of a 4-door car like an Accord aside from looks and space?

>give vin to dealershit
>tell them the part you need
>?????
>profit!

>you have a small hole in a large jug of highly combustible liquids that easily vaporizes and is also close to metal parts that may cause spark and the catalyst which can get up to 300 degrees

Nah, just fuckin leave it? what can go wrong?

fuel economy. by virtue, 4 doors increases weight and adds size to the car.

whatrs a good soap to get this dirt oil and feces off my hands?

What even is a pillow ball bushing and how does it compare to aluminum or polyurethane?

What brands of torque wrench can I trust, Veeky Forums? Seems like all the budget ones on Amazon have sketchy accuracy/reliability at best. Is there a brand that I can get an accurate 3/8 drive wrench for a good deal, or do I have to spend upwards of $150 to get any level of quality?
>t. fairly new bus mechanic who needs tools

Buying a second hand car in the UK, budget of around 3k to 5k pounds. Have only so far driven a 2004 Fiat Punto 8-valve, which is on its way out. Looking for relatively cheap running costs and reliability. Space wise it must be able to fit at least one bicycle inside (mountain bike, I don't cycle one roads, they're for cars). Is there anything in particular I should look for? My brother has a Fiesta which he quite likes, but I was wondering what you Veeky Forumstists thought?

Got no heat in my truck and it's throwing a code for a temp sensor, these are related, right?

I drove for an hour today and I never left the C on my temp gauge, it's this really bad for the truck?

Why do some smaller 2-door variants seem to have a higher curb weight then?
Like a Q50 is 3600lbs, while a Q60 is 3700.

Everything under $50 is basically sameshit tier. Might as well get the $20 Harbor freight torque wrenches that are $10 with coupons.

What’s the next tier up from that? I need something with a certain level of accuracy, big diesels like the ones I work on have lots of gaskets and seals that require specific torques to work right. We’ve got two shop wrenches, but those don’t cover anything between 25-100 ft-lbs and I’m tired of borrowing my coworkers’ wrenches.

fast orange
alternative: Dr. Bronners with added sand sand

>is bad?
yes, replace the thermostat and t.stat gasket while you're in there

I swear I felt my brake pedal vibrate a bit when braking today, though it could have been some snow under the tires. Should I be worried? It happened twice, both times at the same intersection that I passed on the way to and from the grocery store.

alright Veeky Forums how bad of an idea would it be to drop 14k on a 95 3000gt vr4?

engine just rebuilt

256 hp and 3400 lbs or 200 hp and 3000 lbs?

100hp is more than enough for my 2300 pound car with a stick shift, I say go for the lighter option as long as it’s manual.

Lighter car responds to braking and accelerating better, and steering can be more responsive.

my car feels really mushy to drive even though the tires are set to 32 psi, tires feel flat when driving, i've been told it could be tie rod ends falling apart. is this true?

What’s the best way to check for brake line leaks? This is a car that isn’t driving ready yet. I don’t see any pooling under the car but I bled the brakes and had pressure on the pedal but then a while later there was no pressure on the pedal.

If it was on snow then it was most likely the ABS doing its job.
When it engages, you are supposed to feel a somewhat strong vibration on the pedal because the ABS pump is rapidly cutting and giving pressure to the brake of the wheel that is about to lock.

If it was on a dry road and you weren't braking hard, then the cause is somewhere else.
If you want to be sure, you can try driving on a stretch of snow somewhere (make sure to get a bit if speed because most ABS don't work under around 20km/h) and braking hard, if you feel the same vibration you felt today, then you have nothing to be worried about.

How bad is it to run 4x4 on snow and wet? I know not to do it on the street, but my truck was sliding so I put the lockers in and went to 4 high and no more sliding. Does it hurt as much as they say?

yes, it can lead to overheating.

youtube.com/watch?v=NehZEoOZrn4

its my understanding that the only reason they advise against 4x4 on city streets is a reduction in turning ability. Its also my understanding that snow is good for killing turning altogether. apply some logic and I think you have your answer.

Fair point. Which leads me to the second half of the question. Why would I ever unlock the hubs? To get the extra 2 mpg?

>Benefits of unlocking hubs for normal road use are mainly found in keeping the front-differential free from unnecessary wear, however, other benefits may include fuel efficiency, quieter operation, less vibration, and lower wear in other driveline components; however, exactly how great these other benefits are is open to minor debate.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_hubs

imo it would also seem that it may offer you better turning when unlocked as it would allow the inside tire to rotate faster instead of possibly pushing.

Can anyone in here direct me to a site that has a car sticker that says "Doritos are a mistake"? I was hoping bad decisions had that, but they don't.

Plz help, I want the world to know of my autism

oui?