If the oil I put in my car meets all manufacturer's spec, does it matter if it's Castrol/Mobil1/Total/Shell/Whatever?

this is retarded. Its like saying "because all pop uses water as its base, they are all the same"

spend a few minutes comparing testing information on different oils and you will see that they are not at all the same

>castrol cup
>5:04 it's a quaker state 2 cycle just being poured into it

im gonna guess that it was a bigger bottle that they poured into a smaller bottle they had kicking around hence the large piece of blue tape that probably says castrol on it

and in one of the comments the video maker wrote this in response to an assertion similar to yours:

>There old bottles we cleaned out and used so all the motor oil was in the same type of container with the same style opening

the castrol bottle seems to have a larger opening which is most likely the reason for this

Frequency of oil changes is more important than the oil brand as long as it is to spec.

It shouldn't matter, but not every oil is made equally.

540ratblog.wordpress.com/

>dat Mobil 1 Euro Formula 0W-40
Feels 229.5 man

all 3 "top tier" oils use synthetic the walmart one they use conventional when a synthetic version exists, this video is bs

except they do use a walmart synthetic oil. they clearly say that in the 1st video at 11 seconds

I was gonna make a thread for this question but I guess I'll ask here.

I'm a complete pleb when it comes to maintenance, but I am trying to learn, and I am gonna change the oil myself on my car and learn to do other basic shit like brakes and whatnot.

My question is, I have an older car, and a lot of people on forums are saying you shouldn't use synthetic oil because its "thinner" and can leak through gaskets easier. Is this a load of bullshit? The engine in my car, which is an 87 Mercedes 190e 2.6, is pretty healthy and was maintained by an old dude who was an ex mercedes mech, so it seems to be fine, has no leaks. It does burn through oil however, and I have been topping it off with whatever shit I found in my dads garage. But apparently the old m103s are notorious for that.

Also, anyone know what viscosity (class, type, idfk) of oil I should be using for my car? Thanks fags

>My question is, I have an older car, and a lot of people on forums are saying you shouldn't use synthetic oil because its "thinner" and can leak through gaskets easier. Is this a load of bullshit?

nope, this is correct. there is no harm in giving it a try but if it does leak you will know why.

>It does burn through oil however,

all german cars are bad for that. you may actually find that using a mercades approved synth oil helps

>burns oil
Usually a thicker oil (when hot) helps a bit with that.
So instead of for example 5w30 give it 5w40.

if its a Mercedes he should be putting a 0w-40 or a 5w-40 anyways

Ok, then put a 5w50 instead of 5w40 in it.

as long as its fully synthetic

back in the day, oil was so filthy, a car would only usually live to 80k miles and you usually had to get an oil change every 1000 miles or so.

Interesting, thanks guys

Does the fact that I live in Australia factor in at all? It never gets below 0 (Celsius), but in the summer it can get up to 40-45 degrees normally.

>Does the fact that I live in Australia factor in at all?

if you go into the outback where its dusty as fuck then your going to want to change the oil under the "severe service" interval recommended by your dealer and make sure you change the filter.

Well, that depends on the vehicle, but it indicates higher oil temperatures as well.
The fact that it doesn´t realy get cold means you could most likely as well run 10w60, if the manufacturer allows at least 5w oils.

>could most likely as well run 10w60
good god thats almost gear oil. I wouldnt go that high yet. try 5w-40 first. go up from there.

Use a 229.3 spec oil
bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.3_en.html
>all german cars are bad for that
Haven't burnt a single drop of oil in my M272
Engines aren't supposed to be run upside down.

>Haven't burnt a single drop of oil in my M272

then you are using the correct oil weight for your application. not all people do, hence the assertion that "all German cars are bad for that"

>almost gear oil
No, gear oil is mostly 75w or even 90w, not 10w.

>Use a 229.3 spec oil
What does that number refer to exactly?

it was exaggeration. essentially to say that 10w-60 is way too fucking thick for a passenger car when other viscosity have not been tested.

>What does that number refer to exactly?
its just a cute number assigned by mercades to give that oil the go ahead for certain applications in its cars. VW has the 502 00, 504 00 etc designations as well. there are other designations for Porsche as well.

10w isn´t exactly that thick at room temperature, hell there are even 15w oils used in pretty modern engines.

I've used the following in a 2AZ-FE 2.4l. In this order.
Citgo semi synthetic 5w-20.
Mills Farm and Fleet full synthetic 0w-20.
Pennzoil full synthetic 5w-30.
As it's nearly 100K miles the last change of Pennzoil came out darker than Lindsey Vonn's boyfriends, which is showing me that it's retaining the crud and varnish.
If you want to know more, head here.
bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

were not talking about the 10w, were talking about the 60 its at when hot.

the first number should only be assessed for its ability to provide lubrication in cold starts

>As it's nearly 100K miles the last change of Pennzoil came out darker than Lindsey Vonn's boyfriends, which is showing me that it's retaining the crud and varnish.

wait... you didn't leave 1 oil in there for 100,000 miles...did you?

The second number is only required to be above a certain minmum and shows how much the oil thinns out when hot.
A higher number means that the oil stays more thick at higher temperatures.
For a engine that is not a issue, since it is designed to deal with additional thickness to deal with the oil when not completely warmed up.
The thicker oil also provides a better performance at high temperatures and worn parts.

The first number is a maximum you should not exceed to keep the oil liquid enough to be pumped sufficiently.
Since it is pretty warm where that car drives, the oil doesn´t realy get thick during coldstarts, so a 10w oil should work in engines designed for 5w.

>For a engine that is not a issue, since it is designed to deal with additional thickness to deal with the oil when not completely warmed up.

this is incorrect as a blanket statement and is why manufacturers put out recommendations at all. Not all cars can handle the additional pressure generated by a thicker-at-hot oil. In fact I would say this problem would be even worse for an older car which may or may not already have some restricted oil passages due to sludge (especially a problem since OP has been topping up with "whatever he could find in his dads garage"). The chances of oil starvation and/or oil pump ware are too great to be jumping straight to a 10w-60. start with a 10w-40 if you must.

Cold 10w40 is just as thick as cold 10w60, hot 10 w60 only thinns out less than 10w40 when hot.
That means the oil-film in the bearings and everywhere else is more stable and can deal with larger clearances between the parts better.

its clear to me that your knowledge is lacking on how exactly oil works once its in the engine. Your english reading comprehension skills also need work.

My argument against 10w-60 is that it may be too thick to be quickly and effectively distributed to this engine when hot. Especially since it is old and may be sludged up in some of the smaller passages. The additional pressure will also put strain on the old oil pump, old oil seals and the oil filter which may cause altogether failure.

You should be aiming for the LOWEST POSSIBLE weight of oil that works.

KEK, changed at 5K miles with a Toyota filter.

Scheduled oil changes are a jewish trick d e s u
Just top it up when it’s near empty and it’s like changing oil constantly.

See the link you idiot

oh fucking good lul I imagined sludgy gore inside that crankcase

>If the oil I put in my car meets all manufacturer's spec
If the bread I put in my body meets all manufacturer's creation requirements, does it matter what brand I use?

If the automobile meets all manufacturer's spec, does it matter if it's Chevy/Mercedes/Tesla//Whatever?

>No. Most synthetics all have the same base anyway.
False.

>Haven't burnt a single drop of oil in my M272
Your oil level didn't drop, but some of that liquid volume is probably oil that was replaced by dissolved gasoline, broken down additives, and contaminants.

>If the oil I put in my car meets all manufacturer's spec, does it matter if it's Castrol/Mobil1/Total/Shell/Whatever?

You will see there are differences at the oil database:

540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Doesn't really explain what the number specifically refers to but ok

>switched from mobil 1 high mileage to Valvoline full synth maxlife high mileage because of this blog

Like any other used oil. And really, how much gasoline do you expect to end up in your oil that if you even burn half a quart, the volume doesn't change? I'm not familiar with old shitboxes, but wouldn't you be having compression issues at that point?

>compression issues
>in an old shitbox
>even a question

and as for the gasoline question, its not the gasoline that's the problem, its the gasoline's additives that don't combust or evaporate that dilute the oil. Those can get into the 2% range.