What makes an engine good?

I hear a lot about how x engine is wonderful, and z engines are awful, but never have heard what makes them such.

What makes an engine either great, or a frag waiting to happen from a design standpoint?
I am not super knowledgeable on every different engine, so I'll just pull up two examples, one of an inline 4, and a V8

>Northstar V8: hear lots of issues about how they are bad and all sorts of things like cracked blocks, coolant problems etc
>LS1: one of the most popular V8's to swap, reliable and modular.

Inline 4
>Hyundai Theta: known to grenade prematurely
>Toyota 4AGE: reliable workhorse engine for decades in toyota vehicles

Obviously this isn't really fair since different materials and such, but I am just curious what causes a engine to either be a long lasting reliable piece of machinery, or one that frags within a few years of service.

if it has pushrods it's shit

RnD
materials
build quality

if it has overhead cams it's shit

Typically, simple designs are better. Long-lived engines are usually the ones people like. GM used the Northstar for ~15 years and there is almost no aftermarket for it, but the LS/Chebby 350 has been around for about 50 and is still being used, and has a limitless aftermarket. Same thing with theta vs 4age.
Some exceptions would be the GM Iron Duke and the FoMoCo Vulcan. Both were basically used for 40+ years and are bulletproof reliable, but aren’t really loved because they don’t have any real performance potential.

both of these are correct

camless hcci when

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The vulcan is a great example of why you need an engine to be good in multiple aspects.
Its reliable, but gutlesss and nobody wants to waste time to R&D perfomance parts for it.
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People who champion rotary's have never modified a rotary.
>I need x power curve for my application, easy cam swap.
>I need x power curve for my application, time to port my case. Shit, I went slightly too big since you can't check the flow rate until you port, and now I have to source a new case...

>Simple design
>Strong materials
>Accessible - Can get it everywhere

There's 1000s of tiny little viable that separate a good and shit engine in the same class. The only solution is pumping money into design. If I were capable of telling you exactly what separates a good from bad engine design, I'd be rich and not posting on 4chins

Keep it simple, cheap, and test it to hell and back before you release it in anything. Generally Toyota engines are great because they use the same parts over and over between their cars, so replacement parts are abundant. Pair this with their engine designs being simplistic and you get a "good engine".
It also helps when an engine is built in a factory based in a good country as the workers usually have some fucking standards and don't want to do a bad job when building them. Japan or the UK, preferably.

toyota and honda engines in pretty much there entire lineup from 1988-2000 were rock solid for a couple of reasons:

Great engineering and design
modularity between engines, and even different families of engines
high hp/lt output
very high quality steel/aluminum
well machined parts
ease of repair

the list could go on and on, hondas are notorious for being able to handle 300whp on a stock d-series for years because they used forged rods and crankshaft. In fact very few people have ever broken a d/b series crankshaft and few companies even make aftermarket crankshafts because the stock crank is known to handle 1000hp plus.

Examples like the 2jz, extreme strength even in stock form gives you the basic building blocks for something even greater. the paultry 200ish hp that the 2jz makes isnt what the engine is renound for. its known for being able to dish out 1000whp for half an hour slammed against the rev limiter with just rods/pistons.

Another example is the cummins 12v, another brick shithouse of a motor. stupid simple, extreme reliability and anemic in stock form. However they are the top pulling truck motors because of those basic features.

>Generally Toyota engines are great because they use the same parts over and over between their cars
It's funny you say that because I can't count how many times I've cursed Toyota for making minor changes to parts within a single engine model to model.

>high hp/l output
Lmao

Both of these are correct.

what does Veeky Forums think of the 7MGTE ?

complete and utter poo, all of them should be sent to india and littered in the streets

main bearing area

t. pushrod cuckold

But what if it has underhead cams?

Engine should be economical, should not burn much oil, should be light, should have parts for rebuilding, should last at least 500 000 km

There has to have been someone who has ran CFD for optimum port geometry.

>What makes an engine great
Experience. I can think of several successful engines that started with a low displacement, small bores and thick walls - over engineered if you will. Then over the years they gradually increased the bore and the stroke until they found the sweet spot between performance and reliability.

>4AGE
Copy of (or "inspired by") the Cosworth BDA - which is the product of one such tried and tested Ford "A" block (started life as

Buy better Toyotas.
-t. Corolla owner (K engines for 20 years, then the switch to A engines for another 20 years)

Cruisers, make of that what you will. Not an owner, just a mechanic.

Here in straya we just kept building the J70 and it'd still probably have an F motor in it, if it weren't for those pesky emissions laws.

What's Veeky Forums's opinion on the 22R?

Yeah, it's the 75/78/79 I'm referring to but with the 1HZ

one of the nice things about modding a rotary tho is that you don't need to buy an expensive set of cams. The whole thing is modular so if you fuck an iron up, it will still cost less to replace than a set of cams for a DOHC 4 cylinder. Yeah it is "irreversible" but don't make poor financial choices like making a ported rotary your DD and you'll be fine.

R motors are sorta turds tbqh.....
But if any R motor has earned the reputation of being reliable it's the 22R, and the EFI version has decentish power to boot.

Cool, I have a carbed 22R in my $300 shitbox especiale and it seems like such a braindead engine I'm tempted to fuck with it but also to just leave it be, I'm trying to find a set of rocker arms for it rn, it's a 1981, the original engine for the car with an automatic trans, I'd swap it if it wasn't going to be my daily

then it has pushrods

if play-skool were to make a 4 cylinder engine, it would be a 22R. especially if you got the pre-85's that had the dual row timing chain. you are going to be hard pressed to wring more than 150 hp out of them, but they are great hobby motors with the cost of parts and aftermarket support.

>I'm trying to find a set of rocker arms for it rn

do a 20R headswap

Alot of people shit on Volkswagen, but the VR6 motor can take 1000 hp with stronger rods and pistons. The crank remains stock.

There was also this gem, a reliable 1000hp on stock block, crank and even headgasket is not just possible, it's common.

>Consistent building of power across rev range
>Torque peaks in the midrange and doesn't fall off too much
>Not too heavy
>Revs to the moon
>Durable under heavy use
>Doesn't have any serious flaws that cause premature failure

Bonus points if:
>Strong aftermarket (usually a side effect of being a good engine)
>Relatively simple
>Sounds good

>do a 20R headswap
That seems like far more money and effort than necessary, one broken rocker arm is literally the only problem with it at the moment and while I've kicked around the idea of doing the frankenswap I'd rather put that money into cleaning up the interior

is the LC engineering stuff too far out of your price range?

They only have 1985+ model heads, and only 22R/RE at that

>34 buckaroonies for one rocker arm
Kek

Celica?

Its good when you can rev it to redline daily and it still last 20 years

What does Veeky Forums think about 3S-GE and 3S-GTE?

If its a barra turbo then is good.

>Opel did both in one engine

>don't make poor financial choices like making a ported rotary your DD.
Ask me how I know you are limpwristed and have a small penis.

Fuck I need a turbo 4A-GE, need to squeeze at least 200hp out of it

OP here, lets change it up.

What was the worst engine made in modern times and why was is so bad?

what motor is that?

>now I have to source a new case
case of what?

the old school quattro 5 banger
heres an 80's one

whatever diesel 2.0 vw made that caused the emissions scandal
>cost them billions

sick thanks man, I can't believe that handle anywhere near 1k hP, also you must need a clutch that is beyond heavy

81 Corona 22R

i dont know, hes probably full of crap and the only stock part is the block at that point.

pure sex

It needs new internals (rods/pistons) for sure, stock 20V turbo stuff is good for about 600hp. 1000hp builds with stock crank and headgasket aren't uncommon, though most opt for the rarer but stronger diesel crank instead.
Heads need to be ported and it needs pretty much new everything beyond that (manifolds, turbo, intercooler, and so on).

Yes

So, flatheads?

oi i know that engine. that's 100e stuff.
i got one of those pic related

Do you daily drive it? I'm daily driving a reliant robin but that has a fancy OHV engine. I'd like an older car at some point

going to. still in the restoration process of it

got to ask how many times have you tipped it

Only half a time. Went round a roundabout too fast while braking with a passenger. Chassis rail at the front nudged the ground. That was before I changed the absolutely knackered rear shocks though. They are actually suprisingly stable and fun in wet weather due to rwd and lightweight. The trick is to always accelerate while steering to shift the weight balance towards the rear. Also I turned mine into a Ute.

Helloooo

So, since I've never actually seen one of these in person being an americlap and all. do they actually tip over constantly like Top Gear, or were they embellishing a meme?

It was a meme. They're not all that tippy (for a trike disguised as a car at least) The top gear one had the diff welded and anti roll bar removed, as well as a few other modifications. Welded diff + trike = falls over. Just like trying to use an ATV on a road surface. Also very lightweight.

nice, what will you be doing with it?

to my eyes, a good engine is one which has great power, but can sustain it.
like a CBR1000RR it can pretty much run 200k miles and not be worn out, while still making nearly 200 hp/liter

this makes a great engine. not a lazy understressed engine doing the same thing. (22r)

I have two in my garage, and I sold one. They're fine if you're willing to spend a lot on them, but if you're willing to spend a lot you might as well buy a 1j/2j

Honda

they were embellishing a meme that had been around since Mr Bean first aired

These engines also get used in aircrafts