/CCG/ - Stocking Stuffer Edition

/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Stocking Stuffer Edition

Thread song:
youtube.com/watch?v=lTuuaTWwDK0

Generic copy/pasta incoming:

>Cars are considered classic at 25 years old, but a vehicle really needs that certain something, to be classic.

>Everybody has their own taste, enter if it's of age or rarity.

>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice.

>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses, don't get butthurt.

>Any and all classics welcome regardless of nationality.

>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox.

>It's perfectly fine to use RTV. Ignore the haters.

>You will inevitably spend twice your budget, no exceptions unless you mint your own hash coins.

Other urls found in this thread:

hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2011/05/Saginaw-Four-Speeds/3698661.html
phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/d/1-corvair-to-sell/6425346467.htm
pensacola.craigslist.org/cto/d/1979-pontiac-firebird-esprit/6432710522.html
tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/1964-chevrolet-corvair-monza/6397410744.html
pontiachunters.com/articles/pontiac-engine-block-identification/
youtube.com/watch?v=gERfFq8eAK0
mobile.craigslist.org/cto/d/1966-oldsmobile-starfire-3950/6376672780.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

Teflon tape on water fittings is fine. Just, please cut the tape with scissors. Those fucking stretched tape stringers just plain look bad, man.

Personally, I'm a fan of 518 since it's faster to apply, but it can be a bit finicky if the threads aren't clean enough.

>tfw one day until new rocker arm and head studs
>week or two until title is sorted out
>dailying a motorcycle in winter

IT'S COLD I NEED MY CAR DAMNIT

Cause i never got around to it? I have other priorities over something so small. I was also going to wait to do all the speedo work when i got the new tires so it would read accurately

I'm more curious as how you drive without a fuel gauge or odometer; do you keep an emergency gas can?

Maybe user likes his cardio

Fuck that. My lungs are shot due to the Army; I also own 7, maybe 8; hell, MULTIPLE cars so I don't have to run. EVER!

I stick to around town. Speedo works, just off by 20mph. Odometer seems to be accurate. I do my speed based off my tach

Sounds like you need a motocompo to keep in the trunk

>device used for measuring something “works”
>device consistently reads the wrong measurements

Didnt say it worked well, its just functional.

>a device used to measure speed of a vehicle can be considered to be functional if it cannot accurately measure speed of the vehicle it is installed in

Yes.

this is elite aspie rationale

Ive saved up quite alot of cash for an awesome paint job on my firebird and i just cant make up my mind on what color i want. I really like the green and red. I really dont like the factory maroon. Opinions?

2/2

red

I waited so many years to drive my aunt's 1972 VW Variant. It's an air cooled 1600cc boxer four. Rear engine and RWD. My grandpa bought this car new. It has over 250,000km

>Chevy vega for sale in my town
>great condition
>1975
>He only wants 6k
>its autotragic
NNNNOOOOOOO

Aegena Blue is my fave second to maroon.
Green is better than red

Definitely red; a Firebird is one of the few cars that work in red.

4 Speed Transmissions are cheap and an easy swap for gm cars.

hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2011/05/Saginaw-Four-Speeds/3698661.html

Have 16k in bank right now. If I can find one of these today I'm pulling the trigger on all of it. Saves me like 11 grand for what a manual vega goes for.

I kind of hate living in WI but I kind of love it. Can't drive my truck in the winter but no inspections. I can't wait for winter to be done.

I live in Saginaw people have stacks of those things, look on craigslist.

I just made an offer for one of these, original paint looks like, and decent condition, for 300. It doesn't run I don't think. Did I do good?

They sure had some beautiful colors back then. Though, I'm partial to luxury cars in darker colors and sporty cars like the Firebirds in red; plus, a "Fire engine red Firebird" just sounds cool.

I hear you; that's why, on paper, I maintain a Wisconsin residence and live in Texas. All of my cars wear Wisconsin plates.

>quality built

>tfw no prewar Italian classics

I might have to take a trip to Arizona
phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/d/1-corvair-to-sell/6425346467.htm
It has a 64 front end and hood though...

fuck I was going to respond to you by saying we're all Americans with land barges but I fucked it up.

Whats /ccg/'s opinion on this?

If the 400 is an XX block, there shouldnt be a problem with the rest of the car being a 79?

pensacola.craigslist.org/cto/d/1979-pontiac-firebird-esprit/6432710522.html

Found time to put the bed liner in. I think it actually looks pretty good.

That's genius. You get to enjoy nice winter weather while driving your classics. I couldn't live in Texas though, I cannot stand heat at all.

XX blocks were used until they ran out of them mid 79. Check the casting to make sure it has XX on it.
The highest engine option was a 350 but most had a 231 or 305 in them. If he claims its a stock bloc then he is full of shit.

Put on the right hood, rims and badges. Take off the duck tail and you'll have a cool car.

Same color interior as mine.
I personally like the early front ends.

Everyone does, im a fan of the Batmobile ones from 77 more (but hey im weird)
I found the car you should actually buy
tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/1964-chevrolet-corvair-monza/6397410744.html

I was thinking firbirds... second time i've done this in a few posts. I need to take apart some carburetors to rest my mind.

And yes I like the 64 the best but 62 is a close second

Worked on the camaro again today
>Reinstalled smog pump and all related components
>reinstalled alternator and brackets
>New crank pulley and super charger pulley and belt
>transferred all ported vacuum switches from old manifold, water temp sensor, and vacuum tee for th350 modulator, vacuum controlled choke and boost gauge
>installed supercharger, racing thermostat, water outlet, and egr valve

It was a giant pain in the dick all the npt fittings were the wrong fucking size had to get adaptors for everything also a bunch of the bolts were the wrong size and lengths or were studs in the old manifold when the new manifold called for bolts. 7 trips to the parts and hardware store total

Hoping tomorrow to find a belt that will turn my power steering pump and fit the new crank pulley, drop in the new distributor with all the tune up gear, fill with fluids and go for a cruise

Oh and on that note, time for camaro anons 9000th noob question:

So my old manifold had a 3/8 npt port that had a 3 way nipple on it: 1 to vacuum modulator on tranny, 1 to choke, and 1 to cruise control. My new manifold only has a 1/8 port on it. I got a 1/8 male to 3/8 female fitting and stick the tee in there them stuck that into the manifold. Just my luck the tee gets in the way of the super charger. So now I have a 1/8 pipe with a 1/4 nipple in that port. Is it okay to run a vacuum like from that port and then use a plastic tee and route it to the vacuum modulator and to the choke? It's pulling straight non ported vacuum from the manifold and it's the only port that does that.

Well it does say its from an early 70s trans am.

I wish i liked corvairs, cause it looks good and fits the budget.

What’s the most unusual classic you’ve seen in person?

Some old black guy that came to my AutoZone a few times had a pristine jdm Mazda pickup. Completely 100 percent restored everything was correct every emblem, everything under the hood, interior, wheels, mirrors mounted like near the fenders or whatevernn u name it. Down to even special ordering the correct radiator cap and shit. Was unusual but super cool. Idled smooth as fuck too

A gang of geriatrics driving MGs in formation.

deora
XX blocks were only made in 78
pontiachunters.com/articles/pontiac-engine-block-identification/
Corvairs are the greatest chevys ever made, everything after sucked.

Lancia 3ro. I’m surprised any even exist anymore

Need help on this please trying to finish this project tomorrow

My bad. Thought someone here said xx blocks were stopped in 78

Pic related, this is the only port on the manifold. Gonna put in a fitting with a nipple, run a vacuum hose to a tee and then run that to the vacuum modulator and the other side tee again to the quadrajet and boost gauge

Fack forgot pic

Thank you for the input

There's no vacuum there. I'm not sure you know what a supercharger does. Why in the fuck are you reinstalling the smog pump?

It's retarded to put the VACUUM transmission modulator on the PRESSURE side of the supercharger. Hook it up to a manifold port off the carb, and even then, expect some tuning for the proper shifts.

Choke is pretty indifferent; it's just there (usually) to circulate air around the hot-as-balls electric coil and exhaust crossover (to heat up the choke faster) in a stock manifold. I can't think of a single setup it is required with an aftermarket intake.

Couldn't tell you what the cruise control needs, but I'd guess manifold pressure as well.

I have more questions than answers, user.

>Why in the fuck are you reinstalling the smog pump?
Theoretically a smog pump can be made into a ghetto blower.
Also smog pumps don't really do anything negative to the engine but if his car has one of those early Cadillac converters, removing the pump can cause the Cadillac to melt down.

>Theoretically a smog pump can be made into a ghetto blower.
I'm calling bullshit. Citation needed there, bud.
The tiny amount of air they inject into the exhaust manifold for emissions is not remotely comparable to the flow of any supercharger/turbo (or even a leaf blower, for that matter).

>Also smog pumps don't really do anything negative to the engine
Except the parasitic loss on the engine, the massive pain-in-the-ass emission tubing and vacuum system, being the least-reliable emission system, requiring special parts for the 70's and 80's vehicles that had separate California/Federal emissions, and requiring more maintenance and expensive parts than their 49 state counterparts, sure.

There's a reason it's the first thing to get torn off in a non-emission state.

>The tiny amount of air they inject into the exhaust manifold for emissions is not remotely comparable to the flow of any supercharger/turbo (or even a leaf blower, for that matter).
Well no shit but apparently someone made some power with one on a pit bike.


>Except the parasitic loss on the engine,
Re-read what you wrote in the last paragraph, if it's barely pumping any air then it's barely taking any power to spin. The hp gained is negligible. I'd bet the power steering pump robs more power.

>being the least-reliable emission system
If you want to be that pedantic, then you're wrong. Charcoal canisters unavoidably age and are irreplaceable.

>There's a reason it's the first thing to get torn off in a non-emission state.
Bubba generally has a poor understanding of emissions devices anyway. A smog pump is probably one of the most innocuous devices regardless.

I know that the supercharger will create boost as that port rather than vacuum, it's where the boost gauge will go(instead of cruise control, i deleted the cruise control) from the 1/8 fitting and probably tee off to the choke too.

Excuse my stupidity I've been reading about this right now and think I figured it out. So I have to route the vacuum signal to the trans modulator from above the supercharger, on the carburetor. Same as the break boosters vacuum signal right?

I'm sorry guys Its been a long 6 months getting to this point my brains all scrambled I had to custom fab half the shit on this car so far I'm afraid to fuck up on these tiny details like vacuum routing

I re installed the smog pump because it's an emission controlled California vehicle

I think you need to re-read what you wrote as well. As you stated,

>The hp gained is negligible

Power at the crank is not multiplied by the gear ratio of the transmission gearing nor the rear end, because the parasitic loss is greater (which is a huge debate in the supercharger vs turbocharger debate). I can guarantee you a smog pump (with bearing frictional loss, serpentine vs v-belt frictional loss, fluid shear lost from the pump, head loss, etc) set up as a supercharger does not make up the 20-or-so horsepower it takes to turn at the crank. Once again, I would love to read an article where this is done, mostly because I've never heard of it and find it very far fetched to believe considering how much power it takes to turn a pulley with bearings (and I would love to be proved wrong). This does not include the subjective opinion I have regarding their reliability, also.

>Charcoal canisters unavoidably age and are irreplaceable
I disagree they're not replaceable (as I have replaced several), but lets stick to horsepower gains at the crank due to your previous comment of forced air induction. My opinion is that they are one of the most unreliable emission systems I have run into.

I also agree that the smog pump is not well understood, which I believe is partially harming your argument. Why do you think they push more than a couple of farts of air to increase the air-fuel mixture (much less than a forced induction system) to something more suitable for the catalytic converter, comparable to a forced induction system?

>So I have to route the vacuum signal to the trans modulator from above the supercharger, on the carburetor. Same as the break boosters vacuum signal right?

Exactly! The quadrajet should have a large manifold port for running the brake booster; this is the one I would pick for all three of your systems. The port in the manifold is solely for measuring your supercharger boost (and adjusting fuel pressure for the carb). The transmission modulator is expecting a vacuum signal between perfect vacuum (~27 in Hg, very soft shifts) to atmosphere (0 in Hg, very firm shifts). The manifold port on the carb should deliver this based on throttle amount. However, it's hard to say if your supercharger will emulate the appropriate vacuum based on this, and hence why you might have to adjust your transmission modulator to get the right shift firmness.

>I re installed the smog pump because it's an emission controlled California vehicle

I'm going to go ahead and take a wild stab and say that a supercharger won't meet CARB emissions. Does it have a CAFE sticker?

I've painstakingly built a 100 percent smog compliant street rod in this car. Everything has a CARB sticker and E.O. number. Smog legal shorty headers, supercharger, all smog equipment installed smog pump thermac air cleaner dual exhaust with twin cats the whole nine yards.

Okay so then for the vacuum advance on the distributor it would be the same thing right, run to a vacuum source above the supercharger. The only question now is direct manifold pressure or ported. I'm gonna have to look up the schematic o drew before tearing everything apart of how it was before, but any suggestions? I would need vacuum and mechanical and initial timing to be just fucking right or else kaboom engine

>set up as a supercharger does not make up the 20-or-so horsepower it takes to turn at the crank.
Quote me where i said it would. I've only said it has been used on a pit bike.
youtube.com/watch?v=gERfFq8eAK0

>I disagree they're not replaceable (as I have replaced several), but lets stick to horsepower gains at the crank due to your previous comment of forced air induction. My opinion is that they are one of the most unreliable emission systems I have run into.
Way to completely misunderstand what i'm saying.

I'll just spell it out for you, why bitch and moan about a smog pump when there are multiple accessories that consume horsepower.
The point being that ditching a smog pump isn't going to turn your choked motor into a top fuel dragster.

A smog pump supercharger on a minibike is hardly relevant in this thread, but I'll give you credit. It is interesting, and fucking awesome.

>Quote me where i said it would
And I quote:
>if it's barely pumping any air then it's barely taking any power to spin
You're wrong on your assumptions, which I addressed in ; the parasitic loss is greater than than anything a car smog pump would make as a supercharger in an automotive application. Also, in your first post, you stated it could be set up as a 'ghetto blower' implying the other guy could either: A) take it off his car and make a minibike super charger; or B) use it as forced induction on his car. I'm claiming B is not true, as A is not relevant to this discussion.


>Way to completely misunderstand what i'm saying.
What did I miss? I'm trying to understand what you're getting at by comparing a charcoal canister to a smog pump, but I tried to direct the conversation back to benefits for the engine, and I fail to see what the two system have in common for loss in horsepower.

You're missing my point as well. Why run a smog pump when you can get 20 free horsepower at the crank and not having to deal with reliability issues? I guess we have different opinions.

Since OP is in California, I suppose he has to run it either way.

Vacuum advance is usually run off of the ported vacuum from the carb (and yes, above the supercharger); it's a bit different than the manifold vacuum, because it uses vacuum just above the butterfly valves (if memory serves right) rather than manifold vacuum which pulls from below the butterfly valves of the carb.

There's a long going debate of whether to use ported vs manifold for high performance, and it basically boils down to custom distributor advance curves, both vacuum and mechanical advance. For your application with a stock distributor advance curve (and I'm guessing to pass CARB emissions visual inspection) you have to run ported.

Timing shouldn't be nearly as important as too lean of a mixture. If you're really nervous about timing, run it without the vacuum advance hooked up for a while until you get it more dialed in. It will run like a lazy dog at lower RPMs, but it won't detonate.

the parasitic loss is greater than than anything a car smog pump would make as a supercharger in an automotive application
Obviously, why are you so hung up on this?

>you stated it could be set up as a 'ghetto blower'
It can, see the youtube video. The guy claims 7 psi. I gave you a practical application for a smog pump and proof of it even being used. What vehicle it's on isn't my concern.

>as A is not relevant to this discussion.
I made it relevant in my very first post and you are continuing to erroneously claim it can't be done. I'm sorry but it clearly has.

>Why run a smog pump when you can get 20 free horsepower at the crank and not having to deal with reliability issues?
Smog pumps don't take 20 horses and user has already explained his why he's using a smog pump.
a realistic hp number based on other engine accessories is around 4 to 7 hp but based one what people who regularly smog delete say it's closer to 1 to 2 horsepower.
it's not even worth it to remove and removing it can actually worsen the vehicle it is equipped to like many other emissions devices.

By all means, keep arguing and making a big fucking deal out of literally less power then a 100 foot drop in sea level.

Thanks for the help man I feel much more at ease now. Holley recommends 10 degrees initial timing with 32 total apparently. I read a super Chevy article that recommended running the distributor vacuum advance to the ported vacuum on the manifold itself because this would "cut off vacuum advance at boost, retarding timing at full boost and decreasing chances of detonation" thoughts? It seams everybody has a different opinion

>10 initial to 32 total
That sounds pretty standard issue, probably on the conservative side for higher altitudes. Since this is your first run, I would start at 6 degrees initial just to make sure everything is ok and then go from there. You might get away with as much 12 degrees (slowly creeping upwards on numerous test drives) initial, but back it off at the first sign of detonation (pinging). You can also run a higher octane gas to prevent detonation too.

What you said about hooking it up at the manifold makes sense, but it would decrease driveabilty at part throttle. Here's what I'd do:

1) Set initial at 6 degrees BTDC with vac adv disconnected.
2)Drive around with vac advance disconnected, give it some 2500+ rpm WOT pulls to make sure there's not detonation
3) Attach vac advance to ported vacuum on carb, repeat step 2
4) If no denotation occurs, increase initial advance 2 degrees.
5) Repeat steps 2-4 until 10 degrees initial is set and confirmed not to detonate at all engine loads.
At the first sign pinging does occur with the vac advance hooked up, back off 2 degrees initial and call it good. If it happens with it disconnected, you're likely running WAY too lean or have issues elsewhere.

Like I said earlier, I'd be more worried about a lean mixture. It's better to run richer jets than expected and back them off to the right setting than running too lean and greanading your engine. A short spurt of pinging from slightly-too-advanced timing will not kill your engine; a WOT pull that's too lean of a mixture will.

Right on man, my q-jet is set kinda rich right now in anticipation of this installation. According to a random ass te chnical publication I found (and for some fuckin reason not included in the actual install instructions or on the website where they sell it) the 1/8 npt fitting on the manifold itself is for the boost gauge and vacuum advance/retard. You're supposed to tee that off to both. I got a gauge that'll show vacuum and boost so I'll run that there and run the adjustable vacuum advance there too.

But I'll set initial and shit with the VA disconnected and capped off just like u said to get that down pat first, and then that way the vacuum advance will only be at idle/ part throttle and will shut off at WOT and full boost

Sounds like a plan! Good luck man!

Brb blowing out my 1300 dollars transmission because it revs to 9000 in first gear under boost with no shift from the modulator and then wrapping it around a tree because no signal to break boosters

Well fuggg looks like per emissions I have to run it off the ported vacuum on the carb

Well it was shit when it was new. So its probably not much better now.

Atleast it was cheap.

>tfw your corolla 1.3 st. turned 25 this year
Heh looks like im rocking a classic boys

>Aren't you afraid the salt will rot your truck!?

Fuck it.

Just came here to brag about my new wheels. They turned out amazing.

3 inches of poke lmao. m going to rivet on some flares after the new year.

Nooooooo!

Bricklin SV-1; utter garbage, but pretty cool.

I used to have a toy of one of those.

I once almost bought a Saab Sonnett 3 until i realized parts are unobtainium.

Huh. I love those Saabs; beautiful, but I'll never own one. The Bricklin was just too much of a kit car and the reason they're so worthless is that the build "quality" is nonexistent.

I've actually heard that Ford still produces parts for that V4 because it's also used as a stationary engine but you figure everything else is proprietary. Maybe someday i'll get one that's in perfect condition.

>Having emissions tests
Thank God I live in a free state
It's not cool if it didn't come factory with the car or are steelies.
The tires are cool though I'll give you that.

Fender flares look stupid, at least your doing it on a worthless nippbox and not something valuable.

Fender flares are primarily a functional item m8, and that's just like, your opinion man.
Stock wheels look like absolute shit.

I think they look nice, I think boomers and stancers ruined me. I think its rice to have anything but stock rims on cars.

Back from junkyard. Got more pictures of the impala im looking at.
Body and frame are solid apart from needing a new quarter panel and a hole in the floorboard. No engine, transmission or anything, setup for an automatic. It had a 427 in it but its gone. Interior needs to be reupholstered but everything is there. They want somewhere around $500 for it.
What would be a good place to find parts for it other than Ebay?

at least get them fabricated and welded. Better yet order Golf Mk1 flares, they're pretty much universally used for the job

Impalabobs, impalatech, carid, vatozone for mechanical parts. Whats your budget? 500 is cheap for a project car, but for a few grand you can get complete driving ones. Especially 4 doors. If youre dead set on it, id still get it as a parts car. And you should let me buy some of the trim.

Be sure to check under the cowl panel and behind the kick panels.

Figured I'd try to make some myself one day to replace ABS plastic shit. Well see.going to wait to cut them, if they don't rub any I won't bother

No flares, mount spare on hood and roof. Rally drifter!

>implying ill be able to drift on r888rs even after I get the motorwork done this spring

Theyve got a '65 SS there i could probably take parts off of, but buying it as a donor is out of the question. My budget is about $1000 give or take, ive already got an engine for it so its all body and cosemetics i need to worry about. Trims fukkd for the most part, not much to sell.
I didnt take a good look at the underbody or anything, was too busy freezing my ass off and taking quick pics of any damage i saw, i didnt see any signs of rotting though other than one hole behind the back seat which seems like an easy fix

I finally managed to replace my front brake rotors on my FC, the rotors were welded to the hubs due to age and corrosion...

Based old neighbor dude, who has a 65 coronet 440, had this old hydraulic press which snapped them apart. Fun stuff

Anything is driftable in the dirt

You really wont know how bad it is till after you get it out of the snow and off the ground. But still, best of luck!

If you get a chance, snap a pic of the windshield and back window trim.

Oh, and rockauto for cheap parts.

I looked around a bit and saw this interesting idea on a grassroots post.
What he's doing is taking the existing flare, cutting around the lip, pulling it out to the desired width and then filling in the gap with fiberglass I think.I don't have much in the way of metal working skills but I could definitely pull off the first step, how would I fill in the gap properly?

Swap meet
W
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M
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So i got the spare cash together, which one of these 2 should i go look at 1st?

>66 Starfire
mobile.craigslist.org/cto/d/1966-oldsmobile-starfire-3950/6376672780.html
Pros:
>bb
>function ac and radio
>paint doesnt look retarded while i save for a paint job
>all original
Cons:
>headliner is falling
>seats are all faded
>2 rust holes in front quarters.
>parts gonna be hard as shit to get.

>79 trans am
pensacola.craigslist.org/cto/d/1979-pontiac-firebird-esprit/6432710522.html
Pros:
>Bb
>comforts added
>interior looks to be in better shape
>easy to get parts
Cons:
>not original engine (or a pro?)
>not original color
>hood doesnt match

Get the Starfire.

The '79 is a bastardized project with an old engine of unknown mileage. Everything that has been swapped is liable to break or be an issue. You WILL find hidden nigger-rigging.

I repeat: YOU WILL FIND HIDDEN NIGGER-RIGGING!

Also, the engine swap is a HUGE con. It was pulled and, it appears, to have had no attention. Enjoy buying parts for a 1970s engine covered in worn and questionable aftermarket parts.

Since the seller has "many other parts available," I would bet money they "fixed" a wrecked one and are selling it as a "Trans Am Clone" to disguise that fact.

Dubs on todays Drac schools Coastie

Unless you want to pull the engine in the 79 get the olds.
Or just put spares in the back like a normal person.

Thats all i needed.

Man youre never fun.